Bottom Pour Pot Design

[Uptickk]

I have been searching through various forums and youtube videos looking for bottom pour pot designs that mimic the high capacity (100-115lbs), divided pot for pre-melting and pouring, with 2 hole orifice plate (essentially the pot for the Mark 8 Bullet Master or Mark II) without much luck. I would buy the free standing bottom pour pot from Ballisti-cast but they are not currently taking orders.

Anyone have any leads on the design? Specifically how the divided pot works and how the pour lever closes on the orifice plate to stop the flow of lead (I could be thinking this is more complicated than it actually is).

This was probably the most helpful on the bottom pour valve construction http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-2340.html?

Thanks

[boltaction308]

The bottom pour is pretty simple

I built a bottom pour pot years ago, I used a 1/2-13 bolt threaded through the bottom of the 1" thick plate

I used a lathe to drill a hole (probably 3/16") and then cut a 60 degree taper into the top and bottom of the bolt. point at the bottom end, crater at the top.
I then made a 3/8 rod with a mating surface as the plug. I used valve grinding compound to make sure the bolt and the rod matted well.

It worked well but I dont have that pot anymore. I am currently building a new one and will use the same design.

[country gent]

The valve is easy to make the trick is steel will Float in molten lead so you need the combination of "needle" and handle to overcome this effect. Its actually a pretty simple valve to make a cnter drill (60 * point) or counter sink ( 82* point) can be used for the orifice. Then lathe turn a needle with a pin smaller than the hole in your spout and shorter than your spout but longer than opening stroke. Cut the matching angle on the shoulder and lapp the 2 together for a complete seal. I normally use 1/2" round stock for the needle and 3/16 for the pour spout and a 3/32 pin in the end of the needle rod.A slot can be milled in the top of the needle to attach it to the operating handle. 1/8" X 3/4" -1" makes a good operating handle. Make it extra long as being above the moten metal it is going to absorb alot of heat. Also insulate the actual handle part with wood.

[Uptickk]

Thank you both, it seems as through I was trying to make it far more complicated than necessary. It seems as though the spring pressing the steel rod down on the orifice hole is all that stops the follow.

Any ideas on how to divide the pot for pre-melting and pouring section? I do not understand how the lead transfers from the pre-melting side to the pouring side.

What kind of heating elements are suggested and can you simply place them next to the vessel you are using and then insulate them?

[blikseme300]

Yes, you are making it more complicated than it needs to be, IMHO. All you need for volume casting is a larger capacity smelter as there is no need for pre-melting then. I know that some folks pre-heat their alloy ingots on hot plates and such to minimize the drop in temperature of their smelters when adding material. My solution to lack of capacity was to build 70lb capacity smelters. You can see one of these here: http://bliksemseplek.com/boolits.html

I have recently built a number of 50lb units following the same design. Visit the Special Projects forum for more information.

[Uptickk]

Great information!

Thanks


Yes, you are making it more complicated than it needs to be, IMHO. All you need for volume casting is a larger capacity smelter as there is no need for pre-melting then. I know that some folks pre-heat their alloy ingots on hot plates and such to minimize the drop in temperature of their smelters when adding material. My solution to lack of capacity was to build 70lb capacity smelters. You can see one of these here: http://bliksemseplek.com/boolits.html

I have recently built a number of 50lb units following the same design. Visit the Special Projects forum for more information.