Blueing prices

[brstevns]

what seems to be the going rate on reblueing?

[wv109323]

You will probably need to get it quoted. It depends on Rifle ,pistol or shotgun. Plus the condition the firearm is in( think pitting), The type of blueing you want, and the amount of polish you desire.

[brstevns]

Alright. myy cousin got himself a savage 99 in 243 that needs blueing. He was thinking maybe a bead blasted finish then blued?

[leftiye]

Ask goodsteel. What I think I've heard is in the $150 range. I haven't had anything professionally blued since about 1977.

[brstevns]

Ask goodsteel. What I think I've heard is in the $150 range. I haven't had anything professionally blued since about 1977.

Thanks I will do just that.

[flounderman]

You can get a bottle of mark lee rust blueing and a tank to boil it in and do the job yourself a lot cheaper.

[John Taylor]

Best prices I have found are Doyle's gun shop. Standard factory or flat matte blue, $95. He does 40-60 guns a week, fast turn around, been in business over 40 years. 208-686-1006.

[brstevns]

You can get a bottle of mark lee rust blueing and a tank to boil it in and do the job yourself a lot cheaper.

were do I purchase this blueing?

[oldred]

Brownells, Midway or directly from Mark lee. Also there are several other options, Laural Mountain Forge, Art's Belgian Blue (a "fast" or "express" blue), Pilkington's, etc. Mark Lee is good stuff and I have had really good results, it is an "Express Blue" which means it can be done in one day because you will not have to wait on rusting between applications. This has the obvious advantages of being faster BUT it is somewhat trickier to use without getting streaking, the Laural Forge and Pilkington's I mention (available from Midway) are "slow rust" blue solutions that take several days to apply but are somewhat easier for a beginner to use, especially the Laural Forge because it's not as finicky about surface contamination. I have used several of these formulas in the last year or so and while I can highly recommend the Mark Lee for looks and durability the slow rust solutions are easier to get right, none of them are very hard to use however even the express blues. All of these solutions produce a REALLY nice finish that would be fitting of even very expensive firearms and they are even more durable and longer lasting than hot bluing.

[brstevns]

Brownells, Midway or directly from Mark lee. Also there are several other options, Laural Mountain Forge, Art's Belgian Blue (a "fast" or "express" blue), Pilkington's, etc. Mark Lee is good stuff and I have had really good results, it is an "Express Blue" which means it can be done in one day because you will not have to wait on rusting between applications. This has the obvious advantages of being faster BUT it is somewhat trickier to use without getting streaking, the Laural Forge and Pilkington's I mention (available from Midway) are "slow rust" blue solutions that take several days to apply but are somewhat easier for a beginner to use, especially the Laural Forge because it's not as finicky about surface contamination. I have used several of these formulas in the last year or so and while I can highly recommend the Mark Lee for looks and durability the slow rust solutions are easier to get right, none of them are very hard to use however even the express blues. All of these solutions produce a REALLY nice finish that would be fitting of even very expensive firearms and they are even more durable and longer lasting than hot bluing.

that is what I wanted to hear. especially last longer then hot blues.

[KCSO]

If your time is worth anything or you don't have the knack you CAN'T do it cheaper yourself. The gun needs to be stripped out and polised before blueing. You wil have to take it ALL apart and every part you want to blue wil have to be polished to 330 grit with blocks. Blueing isn't any big deal but a proper poish is! The quckest way to ruin the value of a gun s to let a duffer polish it That is why a good rust blue from a professional runs MORE than a chemical blue.

[brstevns]

Worked with a gunsmith for a few years. Polished a few rifles in my time so that is not a problem

[daniel lawecki]

Williams Gun Sight has a price list on their web-site

[oldred]

The trick to polishing is to WATCH THE EDGES!!!!! Don't round off edges, corners or smear the lettering when sanding and remember that the buffing wheel can do as much or more damage than sandpaper. It's not difficult at all but it does require attention and a great many nice and even expensive old firearms have been ruined by improper buffing and polishing, like I said it's not hard if the person pays attention to detail but if they get careless it can quickly turn into a disaster, once the edges are rounded and lettering blurred it's too late and there is no way to repair it because the metal gone and cannot be replaced.

[waksupi]

I don't care for buffing wheels at all. I do all of mine by hand. Plus, the buffing wheels usually take the surface finish too fine. You need to leave some tooth to the metal.

[oldred]

I don't care for buffing wheels at all. I do all of mine by hand. Plus, the buffing wheels usually take the surface finish too fine. You need to leave some tooth to the metal.



Good point, I was talking about buffing/polishing in general as one might do for a hot blue but we have been discussing rust blue here and of course buffing with a buffer is something that definitely should not be done in that case. The last rust blue parts I did (about two weeks ago) were final sanded wet with 3M wet/dry paper in 400 grit, I know one fella who does some really nice work that goes no finer than 320 grit.

[buggybuilder]

I've used Laural Mountain Forge with great success 3 times (different rifles). It takes 1 day, but you will be happy with the results. You will get a durable blue-job that is not real shiny, but will match the period of your Savage 99. Do not polish with a buffing wheel and cover all your writing (rollmarks) on your barrel so they do not get buffed off. I just used masking tape.

[Whiterabbit]

my local outfit cerakotes a barreled action for $170. Not exactly your question, but I think helpful nonetheless.

[Hang Fire]

I have never understood the voodoo machinations to achieve a good blue job.

One may not agree (I don't) with guy in video on several things, but he is on track for doing a fast, and good blue job.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3ON_UekuYM

I do it similar, but in a somewhat different way.

Here is pic of a pre bubbaed Tula MN I was working on, as there were no rust spots or scratches on barrel and receiver, it took me only a few minutes to clean and blue.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/TANSTAAFL-2/pre20bubbaed2.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/TANSTAAFL-2/media/pre20bubbaed2.jpg.html)

Can see the final result here: http://hstrial-rchambers.homestead.com/early.html#

[USMC87]

There's a guy named Denny Martin here in White Sulpher Springs that is the very best I have ever saw on blueing and wood work. He charges $250.00 to do the whole gun no matter what shape it's in. Denny has redone some of my dads Brownings and lefevers and they are showroom quality.