Article on Annealing

[texasmac]

Hey guys,

I just authored and posted an article on annealing on my website. If you’re interested go to http://www.texas-mac.com/Annealing_Case_Necks.html.

Wayne

[smoked turkey]

Thanks for posting and including several links to the various products available to aid in the process. I use the bare hand method for my 30-06 cases. In the past I have used the deep socket approach with my cordless drill. Last time I just turned the case by hand while watching the neck area for slight discoloration to begin. As soon as it started I dropped it on a damp towel. Seemed to work, but I really want to try using the 750 degree Templiq to get better consistency with temperature.

[John Boy]

After annealing, the case was dumped out of the socket onto a soft towel. Quenching the hot case in
water does not affect the annealing process. It only cools the case faster and delays reloading due to drying time.
Yes - After annealing, the case was dumped out of the socket onto a soft towel.
? - Quenching the hot case in water does not affect the annealing process.

Unlike steel, which will be made harder when it is cooled rapidly, brass is virtually unaffected when it is rapidly cooled. Annealing brass and suddenly quenching it in water will have no measurable effect on the brass.
http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

[Chill Wills]

Yes - After annealing, the case was dumped out of the socket onto a soft towel.
? - Quenching the hot case in water does not affect the annealing process.
That is true. However, it does not hurt either. I do not like the idea of any heat migrating into the back end of the case. Old habits die hard and I'm not changing. I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy.
Michael Rix

[Ed in North Texas]

Great post by Texasmac, thanks for the info. Another method was posted by Battlerife, a member from Alberta, Canada. It is in this thread* on annealing:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?153620-Annealing-Setup

* The thread also has a post with a link a 6mmbr website article on annealing.

[texasmac]

I just updated the article with additional information on using 750° Tempilaq.
http://www.texas-mac.com/Annealing_Case_Necks.html

Wayne

[PTS]

Thanks, Tex. Printed out and filed. I'm fairly new to BP. While I do reload for .45-70 Pedersoli, I’ve yet to anneal as I haven’t understood it. Your article gave me the theory and understanding that I needed.

[Battis]

Great article. I was using the molten lead method but alot of the time the lead was sticking to the brass. After reading your article, I dipped the case mouths in oil first, and it worked.
Is there any way to tell if the case heads have been damaged by the heat?

[texasmac]

Battis,

The only good way to check for head heat damage is to apply a 475 degree temperature indicating fluid or crayon stick. If it get hot enough to melt the crayon or dried fluid than there's a good chance the head is too soft.

Wayne

[cajun shooter]

PTS, If you start annealing you will see a big move in the accuracy department. Most BPCR shooters anneal the cases for every loading. I was taught by my BP mentor in the early seventies to anneal my 45-70 cases. If all of your other reloading steps are correct then you should see a marked improvement on your downrange targets. Later David

[Texantothecore]

Great article. I was using the molten lead method but alot of the time the lead was sticking to the brass. After reading your article, I dipped the case mouths in oil first, and it worked.
Is there any way to tell if the case heads have been damaged by the heat?

What type of oil did you use (probably a stupid question)? I am going to try this method as it seems to me to be the best, most controllable method of annealing my cases.

[Battis]

Rookie mistake - I used old motor oil. New and clean would have been better. I dipped the mouths for approx. 2.5 seconds, which is also how long it takes for the oil to ignite and burn away in a small, quick flame.

[Texantothecore]

I think I'll go with some brand new 10W30. Thanks for the tip.

[Battis]

I only held the head of the case with my thumb/finger once. I got a good idea of how long it takes for the 'warmth' to reach my fingers. After that I used pliers to dip the case mouths.

[texasmac]

There was an error in the article that I just corrected. I said "475° Tempilaq is cream colored and turns WHITE when it melts at the indicating temperature". It actually turns CLEAR.

Wayne

[Texantothecore]

Battis,

I'll use that technique. It will save on the fried fingers. Thanks, Mike

[texasmac]

I just updated the annealing article with lots of photos and another hand annealing torch adapter.
http://www.texas-mac.com/Annealing_Case_Necks.html

Wayne