New member looking for shotshell press...

[connortn]

Hi Folks. I have gained a lot of info reading the forums here and so decided to join and get some advise.

I reload pistol ammo with a Lyman 310 and would like to venture into the shotshell reloading. I'm looking to reload the lowly 410 shotshell and would like to reload plastic hull and full brass. I will be doing some expermenting on the full brass (and possibly plastic hull) with slugs so I'm not sure what reloader I need to do both. The MEC reloader seems to be the less expensive "go to" reloader but not sure if it will do what I'm looking for. I'm not name sensitive for equipment, just want good quality, but not expensive. I'll also probably reload a small amount of 20 gauge plastic. I could go with another Lyman 310 for the 410 guage (if they make one) but not sure if it is what I need for all brass. I think at the moment that I'll go with roll crimp on plastic also, so that may change things.

A couple of things I would like info on are:

1. Can all metal cases (410 gauge) be slightly "roll crimped" for feeding in the Mossberg 410 500 series shotgun? ...and if so, what do I need to do so, and advise on how to go about doing it without shooting the roll crimp off of the end of the brass.

2. I have read several times that the MEC 410 jr. loaders cannot use an auto primer, but I have saw some on fleabay for the 410 with auto primer systems. What's the scoop on this? Are some models available for the 410 that can use the auto prime feature?

3. Has anyone here loaded full brass 410 shells in 2 1/2" with exposed slugs that would resemble normal large caliber rifle cartridges? I'm thinking that they would feed OK with 410 3" chambers if they can be loaded this way at all. Not trying to get more bullet weight or powder volumn. It's mainly to easily see and know what I'm shooting (slugs vs. shot).

I'm sure I'll have many more questions, but for now I'll start with those three. All help and info will be greatly appreciated and thanks for such an informative site!

[W.R.Buchanan]

.410's are a little more challenging than larger gauge shells. IN fact it is safe to say that it is the most challenging shotshell to load there is. Lots to know here.

I just got my Pacific DL266 running yesterday after waiting for parts to arrive. I bought 1000 O/F Winchester AA hulls off Trapshooters.com for hulls. They are the most consistant and believe me, what you need for .410's is the most consistancy you can find.

You'll load pretty much only 2 1/2" shells. 3" ones are a completely different animal and you will have to shoot new ones to get any quantity of hulls built up Once fired 3" hulls are not really that common. You can get a MEC 3" machine and they sell a conversion so you can load 2 1/2's or just go for a 2 1/2" machine and be done with it. My Pacific will do both but it is a completely different setup to run 3" hulls, along with different components.

The issue is always consistancy of the crimp. I had two sloppy ones out of the first 50 I loaded. These were all 2 1/2" loads with 1/2 oz of #9 shot. and I used H110 powder, WAA41 wads, and Win 209 primers.

The MEC machine would be a good simple way to go. Not too expensive and will produce good quality ammo without a whole lot of fussing.

Now as for the brass shells. There is a few ways to go and I am not expert in any of them however there is alot of info here at the site in the Casting for Shotguns forum.

The overall jist is either .444 Marlin cases or .405 Winchester cases. The .405's are nearly 2.5" long and will hold more shot. You use cardboard wads and an overshot wad glued in place to finsh the shell. Obviously you will resize and deprime with a standard brass cartridge sizing die. Reprime with large rifle primers.

You should be able to use your machine to do some of the operations, specifically the dispensing of powder and shot and wad insertion.

Then either use hot glue or nail polish to secure the over shot wads in place.

I suppose you could do a small roll or taper crimp on the case with a standard bullet seating die with the stem removed however I think you will find that the brass shells are better suited to break action shotguns than pumps or semi autos so it's really not necessary. (I bought a $2000 O/U so I could shoot .410's and use up powder I had bought years ago.)

In any event loading brass shells will be alot more time consuming than loading normal plastic shells on a machine specifically designed to do it. Still it could be fun and the possibility of loading 3/4-7/8 oz of shot for hunting doves intrigues me.

Now as far as loading boolits that stick out of the end. Not NO ,,,, HELLL NO!!!!

Hope some of this points you in the right direction.

Randy

[connortn]

Thanks for the info Buchanan. Are you suggesting the 2.5" shells over the 3" due to less problems of the shell wall collapsing during the process or are their other problems? As for a press, I like simple, and easy to use. I like the ideal of the MEC jr series of presses. Seems fairly simple. Are there other presses that are sturdy and simple without breaking the bank?

I've never saw mention of anyone useing the MEC's or any other type press for full metalic shotshells. Seems most are reloading these one at a time using something similar to how a Lee 310 would work. I guess that would be OK as I would not probably be reloading hundreds of these. I rarely shoot more than a couple hundred rounds per year anyway. One thing important to me is space is at a premium for reloading, so small and compact would be the ticket here.

My main objective is to be able to test several loads, many of them being slug type in an effort to find something that would handle 150-180 grain slug that could be shot at 50-60 yards and stay in a somewhat 3" shot placement. As for the plastic hull shot loads, these would be normal loads per whatever shotshell reloading book I would choose. I rarely hunt anymore at my age, so this would be more or less an on and off hobby to play with.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Connortn: I suggested the 2 1/2" shells because the vast majority of .410 shells are 2/1/2" and so finding O/F 2 1/2" .410's is going to be alot easier than finding O/F 3" ers.

If you go to Walmart you might find some 3" shells, but they will definately have 2 1/2" ones in Win AA for like $11.50-12.50 a box! They will both load about the same, Once you get them figured out.

As far as the slugs just go buy some buckshot. a 3" .410 hull holds 5 OO bucks. The .410 "rifled slug" is labeled 1/5 oz! that translates to 95 grains and is a joke!

A 180 gr boolit at safe pressure is going to be a total knuckleball as far as accuracy goes and not have alot of power either. It will probably hit sideways if you are lucky enough to hit in the first place. If you amp it up it might develop too much pressure for a shotgun action. I don't see that as a viable option. Buckshot no problem, however this is not a load you want to take bear hunting.

.410's are best suited to shooting bird shot. I have some older game loads that are 3" with 11/16oz of #6 shot, and I then have a box of new 3" .410's with 3/4 oz of #6 shot. The lastest box is labeled for the Taurus Judge Revolver. I guess a face full of #6 shot would ruin your day.

Loading the .444 Marlin brass you would size and deprime the case with a regular rifle sizing die, then reprime, then you could go to your shotshell machine to dispense powder, insert wad and shot, and then insert the over shot wad.

There are several outfits that make hand type shotshell loading tools. (google Paco Kelly) They are similar to the original Lee Shotshell Loaders. And they work well and if you are only going to shoot a couple of hundred rounds a year then these tools may be all you need.

Randy.