A question about casting flux

[evil ed]

I'm about to try my hand at casting some #0 buckshot and checked out "ABC's of Reloading" (4th edition) from my local library and it recommends using bee's wax or parrafin as a flux.No recommendation of how much or its purpose.I'll be using a Lyman Big Dipper that holds about 10 lbs.How much should I use and is it safe to add to already molten lead?:confused: If this works out I'm looking forward to casting some boolits and maybe some slugs.

[detox]

A small piece (pea size) of birthday candle is all you need. Flux again when dross on surface gets in the way.

I have been using Vitaflux lately. This is the flux they use in Linotype machines. I cannot tell much difference from it and regular candle wax.
http://order.nagraph.com/lubricants-flux.html

I gave up on that messy pine sawdust. It leaves too much trash between molting lead and walls of pot.

[evil ed]

Thanx detox,I'll give it a try.

[littlejack]

evil ed:
Welcome to the cast boolits.
A lot of folks here, including myself use sawdust as flux. It works very well, its free, and smells good. I use fir from my woodworking projects. Lot of resin.
Regards
Jack

[hylander]

Not to hijack
But when adding flux do you stir it in or what ?

[evil ed]

Don't know.How 'bout it guys?

[Sasquatch-1]

I recently purchased a 1 pound jar of plumbing flux from Lowe's. Of course this works well and has the added benefit of keeping my casting pot a bit cleaner then the other methods that are used. For initial fluxing hen smelting in the garage I use motor oil.

[cbrick]

First . . . Waxes and oils are NOT flux. Wax and/or oil will not, cannot flux your alloy. Wax or oil will reduce the tin in your alloy but do nothing to clean up your alloy or remove impurities.

If you would like to know why and what flux is and what flux does (detox doesn't want to know, been through this many times with him) read chapter 4 in the following link. I suggest reading the entire book but chapter 4 is on flux.

From Ingot To Target (http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_textonly2.pdf)

Rick

[silverman1]

I use the Marvelux [sp.?] brand casting flux.
I use a stainless teaspoon,and stir,scraping the bottom of the pot as I stir.
I usually use about 1/2 tsp. It either turns dark color,or is dragging up rust particals from the bottom of the pot.
The flux gets sticky,like molten sugar.
When I stir the pot,I get the lead moving around in a whirlpool ,and the flux,and dirt will stay in the center,and not goo up the inside walls of the lead pot.
I just lift this goo out with my spoon,and tap the spoon on a tin can,to get it to drop off.
Keep the lid on the jar,when not in use,as it will draw moisture,and get hard,and will need dried,and broke back up,and also will spatter,when dropped in ,if it is wet.

[cbrick]

Many downsides to Marvalux. It is extremely hydroscopic for one. It is a true flux BUT it not only removes impurities that you want removed it also removes tin, antimony that you don't want removed. Worst of all is the horrid rock hard gunk it leaves in your pot and on your tools.

I used Marvacrap for years and one of the happiest days of my life was the day it went in the trash. silverman1 I suggest reading chapter 4 in the above link.

Rick

[runfiverun]

borax is great at pulling heavy metals in suspension inside it's bottom layer.
it is also very good at sucking moisture in from the air like glycerin.
that's why glycerin is used in those fancy creams and lotions your wife buys at the walmart.
anyway moisture and metal and moisture on the metal you submerge under melted lead isn't really a good mix.

[evil ed]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.cbrick,I've downloaded the the whole thing and will read it over tonight.Still waiting on my mold to arrive,but hopefully this time next week I'll be producing some good shotgun pellets.