How long before you dump the Boolits from the Mold ?

[hylander]

I know another question from this guy again :oops:
How long before you drop your bullets from the mold ?
I have been holding them in there for about 10 seconds after the puddle frost over.

[45-70 Chevroner]

That is probably long enough. Some times it depends on how hot the lead is. I don't keep track of the seconds, I just watch the puddle as you said. Then cut the sprew just after it frosts over.

[rintinglen]

^Good Advice, that. I don't strictly time my casting but try to run at a 3-4 cast a minute rate. Towards the slow end if I'm casting from a brass mold, towards the fast side if from aluminum. Big boolits cast slower, because they take more time to freeze. Small boolits have to cast faster because they freeze sooner.

[badbob454]

i cast with 2 molds fill 1 set it aside pour the other set it aside. Empty the first, and fill set it aside, empty the second fill and set it aside , repeat this way the sprue sets up and the boolits are still hot enuff to water drop

[GaryN]

With hollowpoint molds I cut the sprue about three to five seconds after freeze. This is after everything is hot and working. Then I wait three to five seconds before opening the mold and dropping the boolits. With a regular mold I cut the sprue and immediately drop the boolits about three seconds after the freeze. I run hollowpoints hotter than regular so they take a little longer.

[trk]

There is some majic time when, after the sprue puddle has skinned over, that the bullets will drop out easily.

It would be interesting to measure the effect of opening too early and the bullets bending when dropped because they're not yet strong enough.

[supv26]

Most of my molds react differently so there is no set time for me. Last night I was casting some .430's in 240 grain and I had to leave them in the mold longer than usual to make the lube grooves smooth and crisp. If I dumped them too soon they were not smooth. Most of my .356's to .358's can be dumped as soon as the sprue freezes.

[kevmc]

Most of my molds react differently so there is no set time for me. Last night I was casting some .430's in 240 grain and I had to leave them in the mold longer than usual to make the lube grooves smooth and crisp. If I dumped them too soon they were not smooth. Most of my .356's to .358's can be dumped as soon as the sprue freezes.

With your .430's, about how many pours a minute do you run???

[supv26]

With your .430's, about how many pours a minute do you run???

Well, I've never timed myself but I'm thinking I do about 2 to 4 pours in a minute with a 2 banger. After I got everything going last night I only cast for a little over an hour and I cast out 150 boolits.

[hylander]

So with my .30 cal's I should be fine cutting the sprue after frosting and then
waiting 3-4 seconds before opening and water dropping ?

[supv26]

So with my .30 cal's I should be fine cutting the sprue after frosting and then
waiting 3-4 seconds before opening and water dropping ?

Sure will. Actually I've noticed that leaving most bullets a little longer in the mold will make a prettier bullet. The grooves and edges seem to be smoother.

[9w1911]

thanks for the tip on the .430s some of mine were not crisp enough for my liking(new to this)

[David2011]

The biggest reason for waiting for the sprue to freeze is that it will smear lead on the bottom of the sprue plate and top of the mold if yo don't wait. A little Bullshop's Sprue Lube used according to the directions will allow you to open the mold much sooner and by hand instead of with a mallet. Production goes way up if that's a consideration. It definitely is possible to drop boolits too soon and damage them but there are so many variables that there isn't a set time. This is where practice makes closer to perfect. The variables include mold temp, slightly influenced by melt temp but more influenced by casting rate, boolit weight, shape of the boolit, your alloy, the material of wich the mold is made, how many cavities it has and so on. Nothing trumps a little practice and seat of the pants judgement. IF you don't like the results they are immediately and 100% recyclable.

David

[45-70 Chevroner]

i cast with 2 molds fill 1 set it aside pour the other set it aside. Empty the first, and fill set it aside, empty the second fill and set it aside , repeat this way the sprue sets up and the boolits are still hot enuff to water drop
I use two molds almost all the time also. Once he gets the idea of how it all works, he can graduate. [smilie=w:

[Wayne Smith]

I once was casting .308 boolits from a Lyman single cavity mold soon after I got Bullplate and was using it on everything. Water dropped them as soon as I could. About half of them were bananna shaped when I dumped them out of the water.

[41 mag fan]

I use two molds almost all the time also. Once he gets the idea of how it all works, he can graduate. [smilie=w:

There's a video that was put up I believe in our town using 2 molds to cast with......For the life of me, I can't remember the guys name, frequents here alot...from Alaska??.......good video though. Going to bug me till I remember his user name now.

[Blammer]

So with my .30 cal's I should be fine cutting the sprue after frosting and then
waiting 3-4 seconds before opening and water dropping ?

sometimes I wait 6-7 sec after it frosts over. If the sprue cuts TOO easy it's too soon, if it cuts TOO hard it's too late.

Yep, I wait longer or shorter sometimes, no real set rate.

[khmer6]

Depends on how hot the alloy and mold is. I try to cut is as soon as possible and water drop

[groundsclown]

sometimes I wait 6-7 sec after it frosts over. If the sprue cuts TOO easy it's too soon, if it cuts TOO hard it's too late.

Yep, I wait longer or shorter sometimes, no real set rate.
Same here

[Kull]

I've been cutting the sprue anywhere from 4-8 seconds after it frost over. Depends on how hot the mold is.

[missionary5155]

Good evening
I always cast with at least 2 molds and often with three especially if there are any one cavity molds involved. As soon as mold A is hot and running I add mold B. If those two are running good then I go with that. But if one is a single cavity they get hot fast and cool slow. So another mold gets added. The next mold to get used is sitting up on the pot lip prewarming. May be up there 10 minutes. As that prewarmed mold gets into the rotation I use it every other mold cycle to get it hot. I will also dip it into the pot to heat it faster. When using multiple molds I keep my lead hot. It all is sort of a balancing act but it just takes alittle practice and keep moving along.
I am always in need of several boolit types, weights, and calibers so it is easy to plan on what I need to cast and have those molds ready to get in line. I do not desire to waste time and be sitting about watching puddles cool.
Even down here in "Big Brother " land I cast with two molds or more. No waiting for anything to cool. Fill it, set it down and grab whichever mold is in line to get dumped and refilled. Once you get a system and rythem going you can cast a bunch of good boolits.
The six hole Lee's ... that is another world. But with some of the larger calibers.. .41 and .45 I have on occassion used two molds. I also run my lead hot.
Mike in Peru

[BruceB]

"Institutional memory" can be a short-term thing.

Not that long ago, there were extensive discussions on the Speedcasting" technique that I use, and about which I'd posted. Not a single mention on this thread, which surprises me because the technique virtually ELIMINATES waiting time after the mould is filled.

Repeat: ELIMINATES. The mould gets filled four or five times per minute.


Go to the 'Classics and Stickies' forum. You will find the article about half-way or so down the first page.

[Bzcraig]

i cast with 2 molds fill 1 set it aside pour the other set it aside. Empty the first, and fill set it aside, empty the second fill and set it aside , repeat this way the sprue sets up and the boolits are still hot enuff to water drop

What boolits are you casting using this method?

[prs]

I also often cast with two 6 cavity molds of same design. I separate opening the sprue plate from emptying the mold; that is, I cut sprue as soon as I can without smearing, then rest the mold as I fill mold "b". If running one mold I wait several seconds (the value of several varies with the mold and shop temps, the boolits will teach us) after cutting sprue. With molds using steel sprue plate openers I open soon enough so that gloved hand will do the job.

Since using a hot plate to pre-heat molds I intentionally over heat them a bit and let them settle down to best casting temp during the first or second pour. I get perfect keepers much quicker that way. If I have to pause for some reason, the hot plate on medium keeps the mold at use tenp.

prs

[hylander]

I got to get me one of those hot plates
I used the propane torch yesturday to preheat and it really helped

[Bzcraig]

I also often cast with two 6 cavity molds of same design. I separate opening the sprue plate from emptying the mold; that is, I cut sprue as soon as I can without smearing, then rest the mold as I fill mold "b". If running one mold I wait several seconds (the value of several varies with the mold and shop temps, the boolits will teach us) after cutting sprue. With molds using steel sprue plate openers I open soon enough so that gloved hand will do the job.

Since using a hot plate to pre-heat molds I intentionally over heat them a bit and let them settle down to best casting temp during the first or second pour. I get perfect keepers much quicker that way. If I have to pause for some reason, the hot plate on medium keeps the mold at use tenp.

prs

I understand the process.....my question is what boolits are being cast. At this point I'm only casting small pistol calibers with two cavity molds and can't get my hands to move that fast where the sprue would not be hard. Your explanation above addresses the sprue but was thinking the larger caliber rifle and pistol molds with greater lead volume would be a factor.

[fcvan]

Speedcasting thread was very informative. I've cast for decades and my casting skills have improved immensely from tips learned here. Much of what I learned reinforced and/or explained why some of the things I was taught work the way they do. The other day I cranked out 1000 225-415 boolits while listening to a ball game.

I have always been able to cast good boolits with few culls. For years I used two molds as described above. I ran my melt at the same temp I do now. The difference is I can crank out one type of boolit by cycling the mold at the right time which is pretty much the same speed as before when using two. I now can cast a lot more boolits per hour from one mold without pushing so fast I get lead smearing. Using bullplate or two-cycle oil was another great tip. Man, I love this site!

[Recluse]

"Institutional memory" can be a short-term thing.

Not that long ago, there were extensive discussions on the Speedcasting" technique that I use, and about which I'd posted. Not a single mention on this thread, which surprises me because the technique virtually ELIMINATES waiting time after the mould is filled.

Repeat: ELIMINATES. The mould gets filled four or five times per minute.


Go to the 'Classics and Stickies' forum. You will find the article about half-way or so down the first page.

I cannot emphasize this :goodpost: enough. Ever since reading Bruce's experience and advice, I've kept a wet towel (I believe Bruce uses a large sponge) next to my furnace on a clamped-down ceramic tile and along with speeding up my casting, it has also helped with keeping a more consistent mold temperature--the result being more consistent boolits, which translates into more consistent shooting.

:coffee:

[detox]

"Institutional memory" can be a short-term thing.

Not that long ago, there were extensive discussions on the Speedcasting" technique that I use, and about which I'd posted. Not a single mention on this thread, which surprises me because the technique virtually ELIMINATES waiting time after the mould is filled.

Repeat: ELIMINATES. The mould gets filled four or five times per minute.


Go to the 'Classics and Stickies' forum. You will find the article about half-way or so down the first page.

Bruce, No mentioning of fluxing? What are your thoughts on fluxing the pot?

Here is link. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?57105-BruceB-s-Speed-Casting-Method

[BruceB]

Fluxing.....

No, I never flux the pot during a casting run.

The ingots are cast from thoroughly-fluxed wheelweights, and I find that's sufficient for my purposes.

[easymoney]

I usually count, but with my OCD I count everything anyway. I watch the puddle and as soon as it sets I start counting. At about 7 I tap the sprue plate. If it cuts easily without leaving any lead residue on the mold or plate then that's my number, if not then I add or remove counts until the sprue cuts right. Then I pour another round, cut the sprue and continue counting. Usually about 13-15 I'll drop the boolits in a bucket of water. If I hear the whistle then I'm good, if not I add or remove counts until I get that sweet whistle sound when the boolits hit the water. Usually takes about three or four pours before I find the right number. I only use two cavity molds and after awhile, as the mold heats up, I'll need to adjust my counts, usually adding a few counts to each step. Seems to work well for me.

[hylander]

I usually count, but with my OCD I count everything anyway. I watch the puddle and as soon as it sets I start counting. At about 7 I tap the sprue plate. If it cuts easily without leaving any lead residue on the mold or plate then that's my number, if not then I add or remove counts until the sprue cuts right. Then I pour another round, cut the sprue and continue counting. Usually about 13-15 I'll drop the boolits in a bucket of water. If I hear the whistle then I'm good, if not I add or remove counts until I get that sweet whistle sound when the boolits hit the water. Usually takes about three or four pours before I find the right number. I only use two cavity molds and after awhile, as the mold heats up, I'll need to adjust my counts, usually adding a few counts to each step. Seems to work well for me.

Thanks,
Thats kinda what I have been doing.
Except I have been waiting another 4 seconds after cutting sprue before dump

[prs]

I understand the process.....my question is what boolits are being cast. At this point I'm only casting small pistol calibers with two cavity molds and can't get my hands to move that fast where the sprue would not be hard. Your explanation above addresses the sprue but was thinking the larger caliber rifle and pistol molds with greater lead volume would be a factor.

I cast 45, 40, & 38 pistol rounds from 250 down to 158 gains this way.

prs

[45-70 Chevroner]

There's a video that was put up I believe in our town using 2 molds to cast with......For the life of me, I can't remember the guys name, frequents here alot...from Alaska??.......good video though. Going to bug me till I remember his user name now.

I know one guy on here from Alaska. "rbuck 351". I have done some trading with him, nice guy.