Belgium Browning HighPower 9mm, would like heavy Hollow Point .

[Changeling]

First off I know practically nothing about this pistol. I bought it because it was cheap, on a whim, (to cheap, $232.00) and looked like an absolutely new pistol ! Gunsmith said it was practically NEW and shot great!

I only fired it at the gunsmiths. Now you know as much as I do about this pistol!

I now would like to use it for home defense and casual shooting, but mainly home defense.
I need a mold.

Mold: I "think" I would like the heavier bullets in this caliber (or any caliber) in hollow point, or the option to make them a solid flat point or hollow point.
My main concern is that they "feed reliably" in this pistol and do what they are supposed to!! Mold sugestions would be great.

I would really appreciate all replys and advice concerning what I have said wether you agree with my plan or not. Please don't hesitate with anything you have to say.

[Wayne Smith]

I haven't looked there recently but we usually have a heavy 9mm running in the group buy section. Will not be fast, but quality. If you are in a hurry look at what Tom has at Accurate Molds or Bernie at Old West molds. Tom is especially quick to deliver and will help you design a boolit if you want.

[Changeling]

I am basically looking for advise, please read the entire post.

[Harter66]

If the genuine BHP is anything like my clone,Hungerian made on FN tooling sorted history, then you'll be hard pressed to find something that won't shoot in it that will fit the mags.

I've my hat in the ring for a 135gr 358 dia in the group buys there were 2-3 working . This 1 is 135FN 130HP there is another that is I think 135hp. I'm not sure where they are exactly but they should be close. W/that said mine has shot 356-124 TLTCs 356-125TLRN 358-150 SWCs and 358-158RNFP . Ifeel like 145 and up is just too much for the 9mm. Low and left is typical in mine w/heavy for cartridge boolits. 135 is as heavy as I think I want to go w/mine. The up side is that you get a light boolit for your 38s too. I've heard good things about the 358-125 RNFP in 9s also. The like 158gr makes a big hole w/38+p and 357. I have to this point shot the 124-5s over 4gr of Unique w/Darrs lube and CCI primers in Winchester for 3-4" off hand groups to 25yd and no trouble keeping it on 3-5gallon buckets beyond 50yd.

[beagle]

Get a box of factory stuff for defense and get a Lyman 356402 and load for practice. I have two HPs and both love this bullet accuracy and feeding wise. But, it's only 125 grains. Pushed out at over 1,000 FPS it's no slouch. You got a good 'un.

BTW, military M9 mags can be used in it by drilling a magazine catch hole. That gives you 14 in the mag and one in the spout. The mag protrudes about 3/4" but mine function flawlessly./beagle

[Harter66]

Beagle,
Mine too,infact even the 40cal mags work 1 is a little fussy but perfect for clearing/malfunction excercises it doesn't misbehave the same every time,I think its a soft spring issue. S&W M&P mags work also w/the drill mod.

[MBuechle]

I'm real happy with these. They drop @ 128gr. with my alloy and can be cast as a flat nose @ 133gr.

68200

[Reverend Al]

Slug your barrel before you start sizing boolits to shoot in your new HP ...
Years ago I used to shoot BHP's in competition and I owned three of them (and actually managed to wear one of them out completely after about 125,000 rounds!) They do vary in bore size and a friend of mine had one that ran at about .3565, and it shot very accurately with a .357 diameter boolit. I used a conical Lyman myself (356402 as a matter of fact), again with very good accuracy results, but I got away with sizing mine at .356 since my bore was slightly smaller.
After you shoot the gun for a while and if you decide that you're going to keep it and shoot it a lot, you might want to consider removing the magazine safety. It was always the first thing I did with any of my HP's since it then allows you to fire a chambered round with the magazine removed and it generally drops the trigger pull fairly substantially too. It also lets the empty magazines drop free of the gun without having to pull them out with your hand, since the plunger for the magazine safety no longer bears on the magazine causing them to "drag". On my match gun (I practiced with the other two and saved the tightest, best shooting gun for matches) I also had my gunsmith remove the trigger and drill and thread a small hole down through the frame just below the tip of the trigger bar. He then installed a blind Allen screw in the hole and we adjusted it so that the trigger bar came down just far enough for the trigger to trip the hammer and then gave it a hair more to allow for dirt build up. We then put a drop of Locktite on the screw so that it wouldn't change it's setting. It shortened up the trigger travel fairly substantially and reduced the distance that the trigger needed to move to reset the trigger mechanism too. Shooting IPSC with that slightly modified gun earned me the nickname of "Machine Gun Al" in the late 70's ...
:lol: