Can't keep lube from migrating to cavities...

[destrux]

I scrubbed my mould with dish soap and smoked it lightly and then cleaned the vent grooves and it casts great, perfectly filled out bullets with no wrinkles. The problem is the second I apply any lube to the pins (and sometimes even to the sprue plate pivot) instantly I end up with fill out problems and wrinkled bullets, and casting 100 bullets after that does nothing to burn the lube out like I've been told it would. I can't even clean it out with rubbing alcohol, naptha (lighter fluid) or brake cleaner... not even dish soap.... the only way to get it to drop good bullets again is to scrub it with a toothbrush and Purple Power industrial degreaser. Then it works great till I try to lube it again and then it's back to bad bullets.

I've been using beeswax as lube on the block pins as the mould instructions say, and I've been applying a very small amount. The block pins seem to be the biggest problem, I managed to lube the sprue plate without causing problems, but no matter how little wax I put on the pins I'm having problems. I guess I should mention this is a Lee 2 cavity mould.

What am I doing wrong? This is driving me up the wall!

[BABore]

Try using a good 2-cycle synthetic oil instead of BW. Dip a Q-tip in a dab and roll/squeeze most of it out. When the mold's at casting temp., gently wipe the outside edge of each pin lightly. Open the sprue plate and wipe the entire underside that contacts the block tops. Leave it smoke for a couple seconds and wipe it off with a clean paper towel. I never lube the block tops and never have issues with it if properly adjusted.

[theperfessor]

Use Bullplate lube or good two-cycle oil as suggested. You don't need much and it won't burn on and muck things up like beeswax or Alox type lubes. That is one place where you need to ignore the instructions that come with Lee molds and DON'T use the mold lube they recommend.

[462]

The above mentioned lubes are the best, as is following the stickies about properly preparing (Lee-menting) a Lee mould.

When I first started casting, I spent much time in this site's archive and reading the stickies, and learned much. Later, after purchasing my first Lee mould, the next thing I did after reading the instructions was to throw them in the trash. Their lube and smoking recommendations are very poor, to say the least.

[Dusty Bannister]

Perhaps the method of applying the beeswax needs some attention. I take the beeswax and make a stick, then pinch and roll the end to a fine point. Touching just the tip to the part you want to lube, melts the wax and no more is applied.
No more can be applied because the wax has no path to the mold. Good luck. Dusty

[destrux]

Thanks, I will try the 2 cycle oil. I have some top quality Torco synthetic here for my dirtbike that should work.

Dusty, that's how I was applying it. It just seemed to wick to places I didn't want it no matter what I did.

[runfiverun]

just use a little [LITTLE] 2 stroke on a q-tip.
apply it to the top of the mold when it's hot and there are boolits in the cavity's

[Shiloh]

I lube the botton of the sprue plate and top of the blocks LIGHTLY with Bullplate.
The corner of a Kleenex with a small amount of Bullplate to toch teh pins and alignment hole.

Shiloh

[Bullshop]

The real trick here is after applying the lube what ever kind you use and before resuming casting mop up all excess lube with a clean dry q-tip. Take away everything you can with the clean dry q-tip and what remains is enough to do the job but not enough to migrate.
The frequency of lube application needed will depend on what type of lube you are using.

[detox]

I use Never Seize (anti seize) compound. No migration using it. Lee recommends anti seize lubricant also. you can buy small tube at any autoparts store.

[MtGun44]

Smoking is not necessary or helpful. Done best it is not hurtful, done badly, it hurts.

+1 on light coat of BullPlate lube, stay away from Lee recommendation of boolit lube, very
bad info.

Bill