Best Way I Have Found To Determine Zinc WW

[shotstring]

Some of you folks may have discovered or already been aware of this method but I didn't read about it in any of the posts so I thought I would share it with those looking for an additional way to determine what those crazy heavy but non-descript weights are made from.

I have been finding some zinc WW's that are pretty easy to spot when cleaned up by that metalic sheen like metal fleck silver car paint that only zinc has, but when there is a lot of grime on the weight and the ww looks EXACTLY like your other lead weights I was having a bit of a fit making a quick determination. What seems to be a fool-proof way of making the final determination is to have a sheet of white paper handy and just draw the weight across the paper lightly, or draw a horse or a landscape if you are artistically inclined. The secret is to draw LIGHTLY - don't press down too hard. Lead WW will draw like a crayon, steel or zinc WILL NOT SHOW A MARK ON THE PAPER, or if you are pressing too hard, only a very light one! With this test, I don't believe it is possible to miss a zinc WW.

Also, by saving the zinc WW's, can't you sell them back to the scrap yard since the scrap price of zinc is almost identical to that of lead? (last check was $1.48 for lead, $1.41 for zinc on the metals market)

[44man]

Wonderful thinking, never thought of that. I just hate all the crud on some of those things.

[NVcurmudgeon]

The drawing on paper can cause rejecting good lead weights. Some of the newer lead weights have a very thick plastic-like coating.

[chunkum]

That doesn't seem prohibitive. Got a pocket knife? Scrape the paint/plastic off first. Then draw the line. That's not so hard.
c.

[snowman]

it's easier to just smelt at a lower temp, then the zinc floats to the top with the clips.

it seems to take my pot a LONG time to eat a zinc wheel weight...but once it's in the mix, it's in.

[shotstring]

That's what I am afraid of Snowman. I am setting up a 60,000 BTU propane burner for melting my WW, so it heats up pretty quick. I worry a bit about having the heat rise too quickly for me to take the zinc out before it melts. Oh sure, I could turn the burner down and be sensible, but what's the fun in that? I think I need to get a casting thermometer.

For getting those paint covered lead WW's, I just rub the WW on the concrete quickly a few times to remove the paint and it writes like gray crayon.

I'm not so good at this yet....we didn't have to deal with zinc WWs back when I was casting bullets, so I'm trying to learn as I go. Some of the metal fleck I thought was zinc REALLY WAS metal fleck paint over good lead! One was in the shape of a known zinc weight, so maybe temperature control really is the best way.

If you folks try this test to find zinc, let me know whether it works or not on the tough WW's. I don't know if there is a zinc/lead combination WW, but I certainly hope not. I don't know what you would do with those.

[Ohio Rusty]

A lead WW cuts the edge easily with a pocket knife. It shaves of a curl of lead. A zinc weight won't hardly cut at all. It's like trying to cut thru soft steel. A Lead WW will cut into fairly easily with a pair of wire cutters leaving a pronounced cut, and will let you easily cut thru the end of the WW snipping off a piece of lead. A zinc weight won't hardly cut at all. It's like biting into a hard nail with the wire cutters. That is my easiest way to quickly feel the difference when I'm not sure by looking.
Ohio Rusty

[Single Shot]

Hey Rusty,

Why risk damaging a good set of wire cutters?

I just have my woman bite it with her tooth. It if leaves a mark, it's lead.

:redneck:


PS: I like my view of Lake Erie but You live in GODS COUNTY of OHIO

[S.R.Custom]

it's easier to just smelt at a lower temp, then the zinc floats to the top with the clips.

Absolutely. And it's more expedient than making marks on paper with each wheel weight in the bucket...

[John Boy]

Gents, I don't worry about any zinc WW's that may be in the bucket. Zinc melts at 787.15 °F. So I keep the melt temperature at 650 °F. Anything that floats - in the recycle bucket! Quick and easy [smilie=1:

[Andy_P]

Gents, I don't worry about any zinc WW's that may be in the bucket. Zinc melts at 787.15 °F. So I keep the melt temperature at 650 °F. Anything that floats - in the recycle bucket! Quick and easy [smilie=1:

x4

My smelting setup melts wheelweight very effectively. When for a laugh, I tried to melt a few zinc wheelweights on it, I could just barely get them melted after 15 minutes at the highest setting in an empty pot. I think that my setup is capable of melting the zinc turds floating on a pool of lead, but it would be at least a half-hour at the highest setting which I don't use.

Zinc is the great Boogyman of casting, and has been allowed to attain mythical status. Anyone who has added zinc to their mix is very rare (it's always a third-hand account - "I know a guy who told me..."), and they will admit that they used ridiculous smelting temperatures and a big helping of carelessness.

[Bigscot]

I use a piece of welding rod sharpened to a point on one end. I just stick the suspicious ww. If it is lead the point will go in, enven if painted, steel or zinc slides off. Just be careful and don't let it slide off into your finger.

Bigscot