Advice on Saeco Lubrisizer

[dancingbear41]

Does anyone have any suggestion of how to do the lock ring holding the sizer die up tight enough on a Saeco lubrisizer without resorting to pliers? I cannot do it up tight enough by hand and always get little ribbons of lube sneaking out from the top and bottom of the die. Because it is a knurled ring I feel it should be achievable without tools, otherwise it is going to messed up in short order.

Any suggestions welcome.

Many thanks.

Simon.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I've been running 2 Saeco lubriszers for many years now; an old one with black crinkle finish and a newer one with green. I had the same prob with "little ribbons" coming out from the knurled ring that holds the sizing die tight. At one point I had flats on it machined so that I could use an end wrench to really tighten it up hard. That did not stop the ribboning and I didn't want to get crazy and slip or crack the ring. I finally solved the prob to a greater extent by backing off the pressure in the reservoir; it slowed down the ribboning. Another possible solution that I have not tried is to use a gasket between the ring and the body of the frame. I haven't done it because the amount of ribbon is very small, but i keep a 1/8" little screwdriver handy and occasionally gather up the ribbon and add it to a little pile/wad and when I have to add lube to the reservoir I just toss it in. A factor to look at is the type of lube being used...soft lube will ribbon easier and the room/ambient temperature--if it is warm or too warm will also enable lube to ribbon easier as well. I'm still using the old NRA 50/50 formula of beeswax and alox and that is fairly hard compared to some other lubes. The main factor I have found is the amount of pressure on/in the reservoir and I have played with it a lot, by keeping track of 1/4. 1/3, and 1/2 turns I make in relation to how many lube grooves are on the bullet design being sized and how many bullets can be lubed before a little"bald spot" shows up in one of the lube grooves which signals the need to ratchet up the pressure again. It is a royal pain in the butt at first, but one gets used to it; keeping track of things in writing on a sheet of paper helps/speeds things up the next time I work with it. No lube ever gets wasted, but the ribboning can be at least minimized. Try using the gasket usually found in a garden hose. The center hole may have to be enlarged and it might work. Or a piece of rubber from an old tire tube. The lube may cause the rubber to swell or deteriorate so an alternative would be neophrene
Or as a last resort gasket material for motor heads as sold in auto stores. I would not recommend using "thread sealant" of any sort as that stuff when it hardens will interfere with removing the locking ring when you go to change the sizing die. Ask me how I know. Its a great sizer, at least for me...that is why I've got two of them...they've done well for me for many years. As with all good things, sometimes a little fussing with and practice is needed to get things right/better. Good shooting. LLS

[dancingbear41]

Thank you LLS.

I too have two Saeco sizers. I like them. They are both black and crinkly and are realtively recent acquisitions. I also have Lyman and RCBS sizers but I like the way you can keep the pressure topped up on the Saeco. Maybe I was trying to do too much with it and had it tightened a bit more than was necessary. I use both hard and soft lube. Hard with a heater and soft without. I have even started making my own lube. May look into a gasket style washer and flats on the lock ring may work well too. I am someone who likes to keep things original so I would try to make my own lock ring with flats. There is certainly a great difference depending upon the room temperature. We have had quite a lot of cold weather lately but fortunately I have not been casting so have not had bullets to lube. Spring is coming slowly. I am waiting for an MP mould from a group buy. I will be very active when I get it and will hopefully have lots to size and shoot.

Thanks again.

Simon.

[Shuz]

I have a Saeco lubrisizer and I tighten up the round locking ring with a pair of channel lock pliers. It's a little chewed up, but, hey it still works. One of these days, I'll take a sizing die to the local hardware store and see if I can fit a locking ring with flats for a wrench. Anybody know the thread dimensions?

[felix]

I wish to know also, Ray! Looks like the reasoning behind this smooth ring is to not tighten it too much, leaving some slop on purpose for alignment. That I do, but sure wish it was easier to screw on in the first place. (How was the trip? Thinking of you and S and wishing I was well enough to play.) ... felix

[Doc Highwall]

I have been lucky that mine have not leaked. I am still considering putting a O-ring on the sizing die where there is a groove already cut, and cutting a relief in the knurled nut for a O-seal.

[felix]

Mine does not leak unless lube is too warm or too much pressure on the lube. However, if fillout is good around the boolit with no lube holes remaining around the boolit using a single stroke, that's ideal with any lube leak or not around the die. ... felix

[Iron Mike Golf]

Crinkle black SAECO over here. I added a fiber washer top and bottom and use pliers to snug it up. Now, I only get ribbons if I leave the heater running waaay too long.

[Seabee1960]

11/16-24 UNEF is the thread siz for the nut... I had to run down stairs and check....All my Redding sizer dies measure right at .6875 dia O.D.

[lotech]

I've been using two of these for more than twenty years. I don't generally clean them up well and find that a buildup of lube will get between the lock ring and frame component. The buildup is slight but just enough to prevent snugging up the ring. Use a hairdryer to soften the lube (even half & half) and you should be able to get the ring tight without pliers.

[Shuz]

11/16-24 UNEF is the thread siz for the nut... I had to run down stairs and check....All my Redding sizer dies measure right at .6875 dia O.D.

Seabee1960--Thanks for the info! The 11/16-24 I think I unnerstand, but could you please clarify what the UNEF stands for?

[Shuz]

I wish to know also, Ray! Looks like the reasoning behind this smooth ring is to not tighten it too much, leaving some slop on purpose for alignment. That I do, but sure wish it was easier to screw on in the first place. (How was the trip? Thinking of you and S and wishing I was well enough to play.) ... felix

Felix--Trip was super as always, but Sandy's 95 year old dad passed away whilst we were in Jamaica. Maybe you and Pat could join us next year?
Looks like the thread size is 11/16-24 UNEF. Mine doesn't leak unless I crank the heat up too far, but like you, I sure wish there was an easier way to thread that nut on. As a result, I find myself using my old Lyman 45's more than my Saeco. The Saeco comes in handy when bumping is called for.--Ray

[felix]

Yeah, Ray, next time. If and when you find a ring, please send me one too. It sure wouldn't hurt if the ring was thicker also, for fat fingers, arthritis, whatever. Next time I am around the district where such items might exist, I will get a couple of them for us. ... felix

[theperfessor]

UNEF - Unified National Extra Fine. It's a designation for the thread form and pitch. As opposed to UNC (Unified National Coarse), UNF (Unified National Fine), etc.

[felix]

Keith, can you make us some? Cheap aluminium would be fine. Outside flats that can be grabbed easily. ... felix

[Shuz]

Keith--Thanks for the info on UNEF.
Ray

[dancingbear41]

Thanks for all the advice. I have ordered some fibre washers so I will give them a try. I may look into making a different lock ring that is easier to get hold of.

Simon.