311413 Lyman/Ideal mold using for 30-06

[Harry]

I have a question concerning powder loads for this boolit. This particular one is not listed in Lyman's 49th edition handbook. It is listed in Lyman Ammunition Reloading Handbook #41. Here are my questions. The old handbook lists, among other powders, 2400 (suggested grs. 19.7, max 24.0), 3031 only a max 35.0 (no suggested) and Unique (suggested 17.0 grs., max 19.3). I didn't bother listing velocities. First, I have some old (but good) Hercules 2400 "rifle" powder. the can states for small capacity rifle cartridges and for reduced loads or light projectiles in larger capacity rifle cartridges. The Alliant 2400 is indicated as magnum handgun powder. Can someone give me info on the difference as far as starting and max loads of these two powders (different burn rates, etc.). The same for 3031 or Unique. Have these powders changed over the years since the #41 handbook (1957) and today?
Sorry for the long post. Just showing my ignorance on the subject. Don't want to have a mishap by using the wrong powder and wrong charge. I will be using these in a Winchester Model 54 30-06.

Thanks

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Lyman 311413 was a popular bullet and to some extent still is....with the 30-06. But it cannot be driven too fast; moderate velocity only...1500-1700 fps IIRC will give you good grouping/accuracy. You have to experiment with it using moderate charges to see what works best for your gun. A number of different powders will work satisfactorily with this bullet...2400 and Unique are a bit fast, but if properly adjusted should work fine. I would start with lighter charges and work up. 3031 is a medium powder to start with, but it should/can not be loaded too light either. Also use a gas check on it. At moderate velocity wheel weight metal should be ok so no need to quench or bake bullets to make them harder. To be on the safe side I would use/start with minimum loads and work up as you watch the grouping. You won't be able to effectively drive this bullet over the velocities mentioned above so don't consider max loads. The design of the bullet will not allow hot-rod MV without accuracy going south/cockeyed; this has been realized by many shooters using it long ago. I cannot accurately comment on the performance of the powders that you mention over the years; more knowledgeable members here can give you more info on that. Don't worry about inexperience,; we all started out at one time or another, so keep asking questions and keep playing it safe because its better to be safe than sorry. Good shooting. LLS

[frnkeore]

The 311314 is a excellent bullet but, it takes care to do well. The velocitys that Le Loups states are the range to use.

Old 2400 is suppose to be a little different than new 2400 but, not enought to worry about in this range, use 16 - 18 gr. For Unique, use 12 - 13.5 gr. A excellent load is 19 - 20 gr 4759 if you can get some.

The 413 usually casts large, .311 if your lucky, up to as large as .315, if you have a U prefix it will cast .309 - .310. If your using a lubeasizer, put the GC on with a sizer .001 smaller than the as cast bullet (assuming a .312 - .314 as cast) , then get a expander .001 smaller than that, seat it as long as possible and into the lands to start and then move it back .010 at a time. Longer (even jammed into the rifling) is usually better. Be careful if you have to extract the loaded cartridge, the bullet could stick, hold the rifle up (to extract) and then just knock it clear with a cleaning rod if, range rules allow raising the muzzle.

Frank

[madsenshooter]

Staying within the velocities stated above will save you a lot of frustration with that boolit. I've tried harder alloys and slower powders in an attempt to get accuracy at higher velocity, all experiments were failures. But in the range Le Loup states, shooting golf balls at 100yd and hitting them pretty regular is the norm. I use powders with burn rates close to 2400, Blue Dot and 10B101.