pot temp on a lee 110 bottom pour

[whomeno]

I don't have a way to check the temp of the lead. is any one using the lee 110 bottom pour? if so where do you keep it at for ww when casting?
Thanks

[myg30]

look in the lead and lead alloy section. There are lots of threads on this topic. The numbers on the pot are a reference and I'll bet they are all different from pot to pot. The temp will also depend on how full it is, the wind, outside temps. To start, Turn it up to max till lead melts, start casting and if and when you get frosted boolits turn it down little at a time. As level gets lower in the pot you will need to adjust the temp again.

Be safe always wear protective gear. Enjoy.

Mike

[462]

A new caster has a tendency to be overly concerned about his alloy's melt temperature, all the while overlooking the more important temperature of his mould.

Here are some suggestions that have been proven to work:
1. If the alloy is in a liquid state, it's hot enough to cast with -- generally from 575 to 725-degrees.
2. Pre-heat the mould to approximately 400-degrees, using a hot plate and mould oven (search mold oven, mould oven). Invariably, this will produce first cast keepers.
3. Extreme ambient temperatures, and wind (if casting outdoors) come into play, and can affect mould performance.
4. Search Tel-Tru thermometers, and buy their 1200-degree model ($19?). It's the same thermometer they sell to the likes of Lyman, RCBS, etc.
5. Buy and read (more than once) Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook, 3rd edition. If you can afford it, buy the 4th edition, too.

Boolit casting involves much practice, and you'll find that there are many variables, however, if you follow the above suggestions, you will cast quality boolits. Soon, you will discover what works best for you.

[myg30]

462, your post should be a sticky or headliner. You hit the key points and no one could of said it better. I need to copy and save this when the same question pops up again. My reply to the op was to short and missed info. You hit the mark !
Reading the books, lasc.us pages below at the bottom of the screen are a must. So much to absorb. I also re read them just to learn what I forgot !

Thank you, Mike

[whomeno]

The reason i'm asking is: just got a new mold lee tl358-158 swc. cleaned mould with brake clean used match to coat it and set it on hot plate. can not get rid of wrinked bullets. tried lower and higher temps refluxed melt. cleaned mould again still wrinked bullets. i have a lee 358-125 mould that works fine. I just get some frosted bullets from it. is there any thing else better then brake clean too clean the mould with.

[runfiverun]

reading is fine. but doing it is a better teacher IF you pay attention to what is happening.
I have a tendency to run the same mold for a few casting sessions.
this gives me a chance to build up a supply of those boolits.
but it really let's me learn the mold better and I can cast better boolits with it.
I have thrown back an entire first half of a batch just because I have increased the quality and consistency so much over a run.
I throw back a lot of them anyway because I am super critical, but I also end up with a lot of extras because I make long runs and many of them.

[dbosman]

I'm posting this URL because it took me so long to find the correct thermometer.
Here is the Teltru page
http://www.teltru.com/p-579-laboratory-testing-thermometer-lt225r-2-inch-dial-with-pan-clip.aspx

Here is the order page at Amazon.com $20.45 plus $9.50 shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/Tel-Tru-LT225R-Replacement-Thermometer-degrees/dp/B0055777EU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1364662144&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=tel+tru+Model%3A+2310

[snuffy]

whomeno, you can keep guessing, or you can follow the link to amazon and get yourself a thermometer. It's that simple.

Some can "read" the alloy to tell the temp. Others just know when it's right and they get good boolits.

Me, I have to KNOW. It removes one variable from a process that should be as uniform as possible. Here's my answer to temperature control.

65883

65885

Anyway, that what is called a PID temp control. It's a tiny self programing computer that senses temp directly from the molten alloy. It WILL control temp + to - 1 degree. You can build your own, or Frozone will build one for you;

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?179565-PID-Controller-from-Frozone&highlight=frozone

Brake cleaner AND carburetor cleaner have oil in them. To help prevent rust after you blast crud off the parts. Use a strong dose of dishwashing detergent like Dawn and lots of very hot water and a teeth brush. I just put the whole mold in water with a lot of Dawn and bring the pot to a boil. The heat and detergent will take the machining oils off the surface of the mold and even leach it out of the pores.

Smoke is for signaling other indians! Keep it off your mold. Using a match puts wax on the surface of the mold. Matches have a bit of paraffin wax just in back of the head to promote flame. Burning that wax deposits wax fumes on the mold. If you insist on using smoke, use a butane lighter, it's oil free smoke.