Problem with lLee 9mm DC mold. Help needed!

[koger]

I have the Lee DC TL 124gr mold, have made about 500 bullets so far. From the get go, if I am not careful, mold will not line up right, never had that problem with any of my lee dc or lyman for that matter. ACts like a lot of slop in the you cant just close them up, you actually have to tap the ends of the mold to get the square, every time a PITA! I was thinking about clamping them in my milling machine, square, and drill a hole thru the blocks on the back away from the cavity and put a locator pin, big rounded off one. What do you guys think?

[sawzall]

I had this problem and used a little bit of "door ease" to lube the pins. Just a very small amount on the alignment pins when the mold was hot and it cured the problem for me. Just make sure to keep the lube out of the mold cavities.

[nhrifle]

This is common with Lee moulds. Lee has a help video that says when closing the mould, hold it vertically. Yes, it works, but it is a PITA. Check your hinge bolt to make sure it is just tight enough to allow free opening and you don't have to fight it. Good call on lubing the locator pins. This is a must on all moulds, and critical on Lees. Synthetic 2-stroke oil and Bullplate are the best things to use. Bullplate can be bought from Bullshop, a member here. Like sawzall said, no lube in the cavities.

[462]

Set the mould on a horizontal surface, then close it. My first mould was a Lee and had the same problem, but I found the solution in the forum's archive. Since the, I automatically use the method to close all my moulds, regardless of brand.

[Boolseye]

I sent a mold back to Lee for the same problem. I received the mold back a couple weeks later with the instruction to lube it more thoroughly. They were right. I've never been afraid to use the 50/50 beeswax/alox lube on the pins and the alignment grooves on the far end of a Lee 2-cav (never on the sprueplate or top. Only bullplate there). If that doesn't work, send it back. But it probably will.