Homemade gun lube

[Slinger]

I'm thinking about experimenting with the Tranny fluid, Synthetic oil, STP gun lube recipe. Have any of you fellas tried it? If so, how does it work? How about Bull Plate as a lube by itself or using it in place of STP. In part, I was looking for a handgun lube that was a tad bit sticky so it would stay in place and not creep, especially on my carry guns. If it was too sticky, I question if it would inhibit slide function on a semi-auto pistol enough to cause a failure to extract or feed & go into battery completely.

[44man]

I use straight STP on revolver cylinder pins, the ratchet, etc.
IT WILL CREEP but actually is a benefit when it gets to the sear surfaces. I lube sears with Action Lube but it gets replaced with creeping STP.
Any good lube works, just don't shoot any gun dry.

[Case Stuffer]

Glock, US Armed forces,numerous Plice Dept's. used nothing but Break Free CLP for years and many still do. I started using it in early eighties and still do.

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Yes there are better specific products if one has a serious fouling problem or a frozen due to rust or severe lead or copper fouling but for routine clean and go those times when houndres of rounds are making action slow /sticky a blast of CLP and a few cycles works wonders most of the time.

[TheGrimReaper]

Glock, US Armed forces,numerous Plice Dept's. used nothing but Break Free CLP for years and many still do. I started using it in early eighties and still do.

C leans
L ubicates
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Yes there are better specific products if one has a serious fouling problem or a frozen due to rust or severe lead or copper fouling but for routine clean and go those times when houndres of rounds are making action slow /sticky a blast of CLP and a few cycles works wonders most of the time.

Yea, I use CLP too......but good god that stuff stinks!!!

[Slinger]

I've been at this game a long, long time and have used more lubes than I can remember thru 45+ years of shooting. I've used CLP forever, but I wanted to try the synthetic oil recipe and/or Bull Plate Lube. I'd like to hear from some of you that have used this formula or modified it to suit.

[Slinger]

I use straight STP on revolver cylinder pins, the ratchet, etc.
IT WILL CREEP but actually is a benefit when it gets to the sear surfaces. I lube sears with Action Lube but it gets replaced with creeping STP.
Any good lube works, just don't shoot any gun dry.

Have you tried it (STP) with the combination of Trans. Fluid & Synthetic oil? I mixed up the original formula, but it was a bit too thin, so I added a bit more STP, but I haven't tried it yet. I really don't know that the trans. fluid does anything other than color the mix red.

[ebner glocken]

I use CRC "heavy duty silicone". It's a spray can that I buy in the automotive dept of walmart. It goes on wet and drys quickly. It lubes well enough and does not seap out and stain my clothes. For under 4 bucks a can it does everything I want for carry pistols. BTW it repels water and sweat extreamly well.

My field and hunting guns are lubed mostly with chevron ISO 32. It's a light turbine oil with little ash content. For firing pin channels and raceways it hasn't inhibited anything yet. In the climate I'm in it hasn't jelled yet, that may not be the case in the far north. The outside of the gun is coated with the silicone spray for water repelent.

When it comes to lube I don't think there are many wrong answers. Some of the lubes that are sold specifically as "gun lube" I have been less than impressed with.

Ebner

[44man]

The best thing with Trans fluid and synthetic oils is that they do not gum up. I see no problem with using or mixing.
Just never use WD-40.

[grampa243]

i use a synthetic 5w-20 in my AR's bolt group and in the CMMG conversion bolt.
i switched because the lighter 'gun' oil would run-off and not last when things get warm. the 5w-50
is thin when cold so it don't bind the action. but it gets thicker as it heats up so it still lube well without running off. plus it helps keep the carbon cleaned out

i all so use it to lube my other guns.

[Dale53]

I use Ed's Red for cleaning my guns (a home mix product developed by Ed Harris former Ruger Development Engineer and NRA Staffer) and Dexron II or III for a premium gun oil.

http://www.handloads.com/articles/?id=9

The best treatise I have read on the subject is Grant Cunningham's article:

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Dale53

[44man]

Wow, just how close is that to what I thought?
One thing with STP on cylinder ends is that it acts like a buffer from cylinder recoil, much better then thin oil used just for parts turning.
Here is another for BPCR shooters. Use a 50-50 mix of anti freeze and water to clean the bore. Anti freeze is chock full of anti corrosion ingredients.

[Rodfac]

Another vote for Ed's Red: for cleaning, equal parts by volume of Acetone, Kerosene, Turpentine (or Mineral Solvents) and Dextron lll ATF fluid. Barrels soaked in this mixture over night clean out leading with a a cpl strokes of the brush...For Lube Ed recommends ATF and Kerosene in a 50/50 mix. Cheap, effective, what's not to like. I've used it for better than a decade. Rod

[Slinger]

Ebner- I agree on some lubes being unimpressive.
I've been using Ed's Red for quite awhile as well and I really like it as a general grunge cleaner on my handguns and 22 rimfire & centerfire rifles. I'm going to try it on a rimfire suppressor in a RCBS Ultrasonic cleaner later this summer when I get my tax stamp back. I bet the Ed's Red does a good job of lifting the caked-on lead & carbon on the core.

[44man]

Silicone presents problems. So does Teflon, not good in barrels. CLP can cause problems in bores. The carrier is what does the work, not the flakes. Teflon is a good lube if between metal parts but it should not be used in barrels.
Moly can build up in a bore and get so hard to remove it will drive you nuts.

[FN in MT]

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Beat me to it. All you need to know.

Mobil 1 works fine for most applications as well. I always told the Troopers to use any sort of lube they wished on duty guns....as long as there was the word FIREARMS or GUN someplace on the label.
We used to issue lube, TW-25 and CLP. Most simply lose it or give it to their buddies.

I've been using the oil and grease recommended in the above link...hasn't failed me yet.

[wv109323]

I use your recipe but I added some Hoppes No.9. I see nothing wrong with it. Fifteen dollars a gallon beats $4.00 an ounce.

[Slinger]

Just read Grant Cunningham'spiece on Lubes. Interesting. As far as a grease goes, I've used some stuff called Super Lube for years and like it alot. I use it mainly on shotgun hinge pins and rails on semi-auto pistols. It's a light, semi-clear grease that has teflon in it . Also have used the Brownells action lube here and there.

[M-Tecs]

I have recently started using FrogLube. http://www.froglube.com/FL13/root13b.htm While it’s not homemade it has replaced Ed’s Red for me. It makes the slides on my semi-auto noticeable smoother.

[PbHurler]

Slinger,

I generally use the mass-produced gun lubricants out there, but I found this recipe on another forum & had to mix some to see what turned out.

"Marine Red" (AKA Eel Snot)

1 pt STP engine treatment
1 qt Automatic transmission fluid
1 qt Marvel Mystery Oil
1.5 qt premium 10w30 motor oil

Caution, this makes 1 gallon!

If you have the ingredients you might try a small batch.

I reduced these quantities to ounces and I mixed up:
1/2 oz STP
1 oz Auto Transmission fluid (I used dextron2)
1 oz Marvel Mystery Oil
1.5 oz Premium motor oil (I used Mobile 1, 5W30 Synthetic)

This stuff is darned slick, haven't really evaluated it in extreme cold or heat to give you a good idea of it's performance.

Any takers?

[Slinger]

I wrote it down and will make up a small batch. Only difference between yours & mine is the marvel mystery oil. I think the STP gives it that slick, velvety feel when you rub it between your fingers.

[runfiverun]

the stp gives it polybutelyne.
I just mix acetone and atf, the acetone helps the atf go where it needs to and then evaporates.
this same mix will flow into stuck bolts and screws and such.

[Bullet Caster]

Anyone ever try Slick 50? Of course I usually just use gun oil, but on my autoloaders, I use Lubriplate. BC

[uscra112]

'Nuther vote for Ed's Red. Just keep it in something that doesn't let the acetone escape. All the lube any gun needs and then some. Add a small amount of lanolin for long term rust protection.
.
Acetone & ATF 50-50 have been proven time and again to beat all comers as a penetrating oil. I use it on farm machinery, and nothing gets as rusted up as farm machinery!
.
STP stays sticky forever and picks up grit. I would never use it in a gun. Maybe a small amount in boolit lube.
.
WDE-40 is mostly Stoddard solvent. Not a lubricant at all.
.
"Magic" lubes with teflon, synthetic this-n-that, etc., are a waste of money. Guns don't need EP lubes.
.
For extreme case forming, Mike (357Maximum) turned me on to Assemblee Goo, from the local NAPA. Works better than my old lanolin standby. Has to be washed off with solvent, however. Soap & water won't get it.

[jmort]

Nothing wrong with making your own brew. I'll stick with the original CLP, Ballistol. It is non-toxic. Two newer non-toxics work well as well, Forg Lube as mentioned and Gunzilla.

[Lead Fred]

Cheap, plentiful, and has been keeping military grade weapons greased since before WWII

Used it to keep my M-60 working, saved my bacon. Best $17 bucks I can spend.

I use homemade for BP, not for things I may have to depend on for my life


65523

[Bullwolf]

Anyone ever try Slick 50? Of course I usually just use gun oil, but on my autoloaders, I use Lubriplate. BC

I tried using Slick 50 One Lube, as a firearm lubricant in the late 80's to early 90's when the hype was really going on. I even have a can of it still, but that's only because it fit in my 617 pistol case so well.

65521

It seemed like a decent lubricant right after you applied it, but in the long term it was extremely disappointing. It also had a tendency to turn into a hard to remove shellac, or a varnish over time. I applied in on many different things over time like motorcycle chains, fans, guns, farm equipment and so on. I was less than impressed with it overall. It definitely was not any kind of miracle lubricant.

Like other petroleum distillates, it could also attack some kinds of plastics. I had an inexpensive and hard to open plastic handled folding pocket knife break in half, after putting Slick 50 One lube on it

I won't use it on anything now, and that's not even considering the potential Teflon health hazards. Sorry for any fans, but I consider it snake oil. It suckered me in with a flashy looking can, and powerful advertising, but I can say that I honestly tried it.

I prefer CLP, it's safer bet. It may not be the best lubricant, but it works well in many different areas. CLP's a decent lubricant, and corrosion preventative, but I can't really imagine using it as a cleaning product. In my opinion CLP would be a better choice as a firearm lubricant than any Slick 50 product.

The old stand by lubricants like Hoppes and Rem oil worked well for years, and they still do. My only complaint is that they tend to evaporate away, and disappear on me over time. That tends to annoy me, since I have to keep re-applying them.

The thrifty part of me likes to use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil as a gun lube. One quart is relatively inexpensive ounce per ounce when compared with name brand gun oils, and it does not evaporate over time. You could probably salvage more than enough oil to lubricate all your guns, from whats left in the bottom of containers poured into the car or motorcycle.

I like to fill an empty Visine bottle, or a needle oiler with Mobil 1 for spot applications. I haven't had any problems using Mobil 1 Synthetic oil as a gun lube, but I realize it is just a lubricant, and that it offers almost no corrision protection.

I have had good results with RIG grease for rust and corrosion protection. It's my go to preventative now in humid or salty conditions.

Have to agree with Grant Cunningham's General Rule of Lubrication: oil for any rotating parts, and grease for sliding parts that carry a load.

I'm also a big fan of Tetra gun products, except for the price tag on them. I use Tetra grease for a gun grease, and Tetra oil as a high end lubricant when I feel like one is called for. I really appreciated the newer Tetra formula that does not smell like cow pies.

People used really poor lubricants like 3 in 1 oil as gun lubes for a long time. Some probably still do. Many guns lubricated this way are still around, and none the worse for wear. This leads me to believe that firearm lubrication isn't exactly the highest stress application out there. We probably over think general firearm lubrication way too much, mostly because it's fun to do so. I suspect most products with the word "gun oil" in the description would work just fine. In the end it all comes down to personal preference.


- Bullwolf

[44man]

No matter what you use, it is oil or grease of some kind and will pick up dirt. That is why you need to clean a gun or change oil in your car. Replace dirty lube. But even if dirty and it holds crud in suspension before you get to it, it is still preventing wear.
The worst things I see is when a guy comes to shoot and his gun is super clean and dry.
I use STP in the cylinder pin of my cap and ball too and I get it too shoot all day without getting sticky to turn. It sure is dirty but keeps working. It washes off with soap and water.
Look at chain saw oil and what it stands up to.
You are good as long as nothing turns to varnish or dries out.

[Slinger]

I think alot of good information has been shared here. Thanks for all the responses fellas!

[High Desert Hunter]

For my revolvers, I use 30wt oil, this was at the recommendation of John Linebaugh, for my semi-auto handguns, I use CLP, same with the AR, my rifles get regular gun oil, and my O/U shotgun gets grease.

[Slinger]

I tweaked my mix of Trans. fluid/Synthetic Oil/ STP a little and applied some to one of my k- frame revolvers. It'll be fine. It'll also work well on 1911 barrel bushings, recoil spring plugs, springs, etc. I still like the Super Lube (light grease) on my rails though.

[bcp477]

I use Breakfree CLP for internal parts. For slide rails, I use simple automotive high temp grease. (Not thick gooey wheel bearing grease, but translucent reddish lithium based grease). No special reason, other than it is cheap, it does the job well and stays put. For exterior wipe down of steel parts, I just use the CLP.

Actually, I've never had any problem with ordinary light machine oil for internal and external parts, but I decided to try the CLP a couple years ago. So, I have a can to use up. The CLP certainly does not stay exactly where you put it, but it does seem to leave a film behind....and perhaps last longer than ordinary machine oil.

Frankly, I like to keep things simple. Lots of lube products will work for firearms, just as well as the "special" gun products, in fact (and for a lot less $$). I think that the key to gun maintenance is not the lubes used, but the interval between maintenance sessions.

[Slinger]

bcp477- I'm with you on your last statement about maintenance....................

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Followed the formula for "slick stuff" and mixed up a gallon. It works well and seems to go a long way. No problems with gum-up or dust. Has a lot of other applications around the shop too. Smells a lot better than GI oil which is pretty foul. LLS

[Slinger]

Followed the formula for "slick stuff" and mixed up a gallon. It works well and seems to go a long way. No problems with gum-up or dust. Has a lot of other applications around the shop too. Smells a lot better than GI oil which is pretty foul. LLS

What's in "Slick Stuff"?