Savage 340 main spring change

[smoked turkey]

I have an old, early Savage 340 in 30-30. It snaps not only on my reloads, but also on factory ammo. I can't say how many times out of ten, but often enough that it needs to be dealt with. I purchased a new main spring from Numrich thinking that might just fix the problem. I have looked on u-tube and did a google search on breaking down the bolt in order to do the job, but I can't find my particular bolt in any place I have looked. There is a thread here on the forum, but the bolt is different than mine. Mine does not have the knob on the rear of the bolt. In that case I have found instructions. My bolt looks like the Rem 700 in the rear. That is it does not have the pinned on knob that starts the take down procedure like is shown in every bolt take down thread I have found. Can anyone give me an idea as to how to replace the mainspring? Or for that matter does anyone have a different thought as to what might be the problem? Thanks in advance for your help.

[foesgth]

These are the notes I have in my Savage 340 file. I haven't taken my bolt down in years but these are the instructions I saved. Along with everything else that clutters up my world. I hope it helps.

Upon removal of the bolt from the action, take a small brass hammer and tap the cocking lug out of its detent notch at the rear of the bolt, allowing the striker to go forward to the fired position.

Drift out the cross pin that retains the bolt head.

Remove the bolt handle and striker assemply toward the rear. It the assembly is tight, use a plastic hammer to tap it gently off.

Grip the front portion of the striker firmly in a vise. Push the bolt handle sleeve toward the front until the cocking piece is exposed. Remove the semi-circular key from the top of the cocking piece and unscrew the cocking piece from the rear of the striker shaft. CAUTION: Keep a firm grip on the bolt handle, as the striker spring is compressed.

Slowly ease off the tension of the striker spring and remove the striker and spring from the front of the bolt handle unit.

Some models of the 340 design have a clip-on extractor unit and others have a hook-in type with a spring and plunger at the rear. To remove this type, restrain the plunger and spring, pivot the extractor out toward the right and take it off. The clip-on type is simply pried out of its recess for removal.

The gas shield is retained on top of the body by two cross pins and mounted on twin rings which encircle the bolt. The cross pins are usually staked in place, so if removal is desired, be sure the shield is well supported while driving out the pins.

When the front gas shield cross pin is drifted out, the gas shield key and its spring will be released along with the shield.

[smoked turkey]

65515foesgth thanks for the description. I am unfamiliar with the various parts your identified in your well written post, so I will find a site that might have a pictoral of the bolt assembly along with a blow up of the individual parts. It is not your description, its me. I was hoping for a u-tube version since I am more of a picture is worth a thousand words guy if you know what I mean. To that end I am showing a picture of the bolt in question. My pencil point is in a cross pin that I think you are referring to as the cross pin that retains the bolt head. It might help if you knew what my bolt looked like. Thanks.

[kenyerian]

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/gunsmithing_savage_340.htm Might be issues with firing pin adjustment.

[smoked turkey]

kenyerian thanks for the link. There is some good information in his ramblings. I will refer to that more I am sure as I get into this particular rifle. They are nice old rifles and are fun to shoot and to tinker with. Mine shoots pretty good too, when it shoots that is. HA. Thanks again.

[atr]

thanks for this thread guys,,,I too have a 340 and the more I learn the better off I am

[fecmech]

Glad to see this thread. I have been using large pistol primers in my 340 for my cast loads as it won't fire LRP reliably.

[nanuk]

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