Varget dispensing

[La Dano]

I have a RCBS uniflow dispenser and I'm loading 223 with varget. It's metering all over the scale. Is there a easier way to drop consistent loads off powder without trickling each load? I will be loading a couple thousand rounds. Hehe

[TheCelt]

I'm using an RCBS Chargemaster and about every third or fourth charge it'll throw heavy, just have to pour it back into the hopper and try again. The long grain Varget just doesn't trickle well. 25.4gr of Varget and a 50gr VMax are potent medicine so it's worth the trouble to me!!!!

[Randy C]

I use the powder baffle in my uniflow and it is always with in a tenth a grain at its worst mine is case activated. Explain how you go about using yours for reloading some one here will put you on the wright path I am new on the RCBS pro 2000 and it works like a dream so I am not going to jinx it. IMR 40 64 is the powder I use the most.

[Kevin Rohrer]

Suggest you invest in a Quick-Measure. It will accurately dispense any powder, by itself or in conjunction with a progressive loader.

By itself:
65409

On a Dillon 550B
65408

http://www.quick-measure.com/qm.htm

[La Dano]

It's the stick powder I have trouble with. Everything else is pretty dead on. I'll stick with trickling each load till something better comes along. Varget is the only powder I can get readily right now.

[La Dano]

Kevin, that quick charge sure looks nice. I might just pick one up soon. I saved the link, Thanx.

[country gent]

When loading "stick powders I use my harrels now, dang are they accurate with any powder. My rcbs uniflow worked much better with the micrometer conversion and a powder baffle. I made my powder baffle from an old plastic pop bottle, It can be cut out oval so it can be folded to fit then a couple notches cut in the lower edges ( each side) to allow powder to flow consistently with out allowing wieght to affect compression. Then you need to play with baffle hieght to find the sweet spot for the powder you are using. Also try the passage notches front and back and also side to side, it sometimes makes a diffrence. I have a redding benchrest also that works fairly well but have yet to find one that equals may Harrels. Consistency is the key to accuratly dropping charges ( why measures on progeressives work so well). Handles need to be operated at the same speed force every time, same "bump" top and bottom of stroke, a consistent level of powder maintained in the hopper. Onmy RCBS uniflow I had 2 piece of tape on the hopper full and lower level. Above that point and wieght ? compression into chamber wasnt consistent. Below lower level and again compression into the chamber wasnt consistent. Set down a couple evenings and drop and record charges with varget. The written wieghts will tell the tale. You will see where the sweet spots are with varget. May take a couple hoppers full of powder to really prove the findings.

[La Dano]

Thank CG for all that info. I'm still learning, pretty new still. I'll play with it and make a baffle. I need to make a new sturdier stand for it also, it vibrates a little more than I wanted. My strikes & taps are consistent. Just need to tune it a little. Or just buy the quick measure. Hehe

Thanx again

[runfiverun]

I just punch in the charge I want and hit enter.
then enter, then enter, then enter.
it goes as fast as I can seat the bullet and put it in the box.

[nhrifle]

I have both a Uniflow and a Lee powder measure. I use the Uniflow for ball and flake powders and the Lee for extruded.

[country gent]

The biggest thing Ive seen with the rcbs uniflow and lyman 55 also the reddings to an extent is "managing" the powder in the hopper correctly. Learning to keep it in that sweet spot really helps. The rcbs micrometer conversion's plug is concave which leaves no sharp corners to fill on not fill, but with that some smaller charges may be unobtainable. I have an rcbs uniflow that spent 3 months with me at work. When I got a spare moment I would work on it. Main rotor hole was Jig ground round true and square. In flow and out were taper reamed and polihed, A new drum made up with a precission fit, side plates made to limit end play. and the mic conversion reinstalled. Alot of preccison work that didnt gain alot other than a warm fuzzy feeling. LOL. The Baffle will do the most after the Micrometer conversion if they are still available. A straight edge dividers calipers and sharp siccors are all you need to make a baffle. Cut a square from the center of a 20 Oz pop bottle. Cover with masking tape ( 1 layer is fine) with a sharp pencil or sharp scribe make a straight line and a cross 90 degs to it in the middle. another mark 3/4" on each side of the center line. These are your center spacing fo each half circle. Measure the Dia of the inside of the hopper with the calibers. Set the dividers to half this dimension and scribe the radiouses of each 3/4" line. with the straight edge mark the radiouses together. you now have your oval to cut out fold in half dont crease it. Lay out the notch you want I used 1/2" wide at the bottom to 1/4" wide at the top 3/4" long on each side. If you have a 1/4" hole punch that makes a great radious for the top of the notch. Fold the piece in half a couple pieces ot tape will help hold it do not crease. Cut the notch in both pieces with the scissors. Fold it and it should slip in the hopper and then spring tension should hold it in place. Play with the hieght notch width as needed. You can make new up as need and not be out anything. Any thin plastic. Milk carton, liquid soap bottles, ect ect will work well, and are normally thrown out as trash.
Im not sure if the RCBS Micrometer conversion is still available but one could easily be made on a lathe or a drawing made and taken to the local Trade school where one of the students could make it easily from an bolt of the correct thread.It dosnt have to be a deep radious justenough to break the sharp edges with the drum. full diameter and about .060-.090 deep. May even be able to have the machine it into the original if the head is thick enough. Hope this helps

[Rory McCanuck]

I'm not the first to suggest it, but my little Lee does really well with extruded powders.
It didn't like fine powders, spit them all over the place, but some little effort with some lapping compound has it sorted.
For less than $30, it's an inexpensive experiment.
One of those Quick Measures does look pretty nice though...

[Lead Fred]

I trickle every load, thats how each one is right on the money.

My Old man used Ball C L2 in all his 22s, did 7-800 yard kills every year.

Ball powder works easier in small cases and powder drops

[r1kk1]

Suggest you invest in a Quick-Measure. It will accurately dispense any powder, by itself or in conjunction with a progressive loader.

By itself:
65409

On a Dillon 550B
65408

http://www.quick-measure.com/qm.htm

Same here

r1kk1

[1Shirt]

Nice, but out of my price bracket. Will just weigh each charge of extruded-time consuming-----but worth the effort.
1Shirt!

[wallenba]

You might try making a 'knocker' for the uniflow. My Lyman #55 works better than the Uniflow. I don't know if it's just inherently better, or if the knocker helps. I had to get into the habit of using it. I have a Chargemaster too. The problem with it is, it hunts. It can stop just shy of the set weight and a bunch of powder will be hanging on the lip of the tube. Then, it turns and drops too much.

Anybody have one of these? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/428274/hornady-lock-n-load-quick-trickle-powder-trickler

[La Dano]

I loaded last night and payed close attention to powder level. I believe I found the sweet spot over 3/4 full hopper. I'll make that baffle Country, Thanx for the directions. If I break it down and polish the drum along with a small chamfer the "cutting edge", I'm thinking it will help with cutting the sticks.

Thanx everyone

[country gent]

Did you make the baffle up yet? that also helps alot. Im not to sure about the chamfer to the cut edge. The radious to the face of the head of the adjustor in the drum will also help. Like I said they are fussy aboyt consistency of operation. Always keep in mind it is much easier to remove metal than to put it back. Any thing removed is permenant or pretty much so ( with out having access to mig or tig welders and machining cababilities). Glad the pointers helped you out.

[La Dano]

I'm gonna make the baffle tonight. I'm out it sr primers now so I'll load something for my maxi.

Thanx again

[W.R.Buchanan]

La Dano: I had similar problems with the RCBS PM and after messsing with it for about a month [smilie=b: I finally bought an electronic powder dispenser to dump stick powder charges. Everyone is +/- .1 gr everytime.:-)

The way to cure this problem without buying a $300 machine or other expensive tool is to use BLC2. It will meter perfectly in your existing measure.

Kind of hard to find right now, but it is available some places. More will be available as soon as the hoarders stop their panic buying.

When loading .223's you are generally after volumn, so having to weigh every charge is going to get old fast. If you just use the right powder for the job everything goes much easier.

You can use the Varget on something that is not as labor intensive, like loading for a .308

Randy

[La Dano]

That's the main problem right now. Varget was the only powder available for the AR. I'll definitely find another one when all this hype dies down.

[La Dano]

Cabellas got a shipment in yesterday. I was able to pick up primers and BL-C2. Loaded 100 this morning with noslers & dogtowns. Metered perfectly and shot fantastic. Thanx for the tip.

[La Dano]

Cabellas got a shipment in yesterday. I was able to pick up primers and BL-C2. Loaded 100 this morning with noslers & dogtowns. Metered perfectly and shot fantastic. Thanx for the tip.

[country gent]

I bought an electronic RCBS measure and scales set was slow for me but if you set up your measure and drop charges 3-5 grns short then hit the dispense button its alot faster as its only dropping that last little bit. My harrels were expensive but when you consider all the screwing around cost of the electronic dispenser to do the above They arnt nearly as expensive. My wife actually bought my first one as a birthday present for me.
I found dropping the short charge into the scale pan on the electrnic dispenser gave me weighted charges much faster than just letting it go from start to finish. But most of my charges at the time were 40-70+ grn charges. 243 w -300 win mag. when you drop 3-5 grns short the electronic dispensers timer per charge is always the same since its only dropping the last little bit.

[La Dano]

BL-C2 worked perfectly. Cabellas got some in stock yesterday.

65740

[zilla]

I to use Varget for .223. Had some some of the same issues with different charge weights. It drove me crazy. Never thought powder to be the issue at first. two new scales later and a new powder dispenser I've determined it is what it is. It may be a bit more time consuming but I know every round will be damn near identical.

[cat223]

Varget through a Lee Perfect Powder Measure has made quite a few .223 and .308 rounds for me. I never noticed any inconsistencies.

[La Dano]

I've been hearing the Lee does the job very good. I'm going to pick one up just to try out. I've read some "tuning" tricks also. This BL-C2 is awesome so far for my AR. Meters dead one, and groups better than I can shoot. Gonna stick with it for the 1K rounds for sure.

[Uncle Grinch]

I have a Lyman #55 and used to use it all the time, to much aggravation. On the suggestion of one of my buddies who shoots bench rest, I switched over to Lee dippers. Once you do your setting up, it goes very fast with very little diviation. I can't tell any differences on my target or over my crono.

[La Dano]

Well I picked up a few K primers and BLC2 the other day. My uniflow is happy now, an it shoots very well. I'll save the varget for another rifle:)

[DCM]

I have found the Lee perfect powder measure to work the best with stick powders also.
Even more consistant than a friends $$$ Harrells at a small fraction of the cost.
Usually within +-0.1g.

[La Dano]

I've heard that from several people here and another site. I'm gonna order one from Midway on my next order. Thanx

[BD]

I've been loading 24.5 grains of Varget under the 77 grain SMKs for many years. An old Belding & Mull does the trick just fine. It won't work on a progressive press, but as I need to use a drop tube if I'm going to seat the 77 grainers short enough for the AR, it hasn't seemed like much of an issue. I use the Varget by preference as in good neck turned brass they'll stay under 1/2 moa all day long.
BD

[cajun shooter]

La Dano, The RCBS is a good measure and will work better if you use the micrometer stem and a baffle. I've been loading and casting since 1969 and have used many types of measures.
I use four at this time. The RCBS, Lyman 55, Dillon and a Redding. They will all do fine but some work better with certain powders. Don't go and start grinding and changing the angles on the drums as you may cause them to bind.
You may want to try H335 with your 223 when the supply comes back. I also use Varget but H335 will out do it with certain bullets. I'm only about 8 miles from you in Satsuma. Later David

[country gent]

I was a High Power rifle competitor for 20+ years. When I switched from M14/M1-A to AR - 15 I tried several powders and bullets. I finally settled of 2 powders Varget and Reloader 15. I tested many diffrent bullets from several makers. I finally setled on 2 bullets for 200-300 yd lines and 2 for 600 yds. I used the 75 grn hornady bt hp match bullet for 200 and 300 yds primarily with the 77 isierra as secondary. For 600 yds the 80 grn JLK was primary and shot flatter and better than anything else, this was before jlk changed hands. I havent used any of the new ones so...... . The other bullet was the 80 grn sierra also a good performer for me. My barrels were 1-7 twist Kriegers. I perfered the Varget loads. I used the Audette ladder method of working loads up and was really impressed with the ease and accuracy of loads worked up in this way.

[Doc Highwall]

I use 25 grains of Varget with a 80 grain Sierra MK, Fed 205M with Norma cases in my 223 Remington 40X, and 46.5 grains with a 155 grain Sierra MK, Fed 210M with Lapua case.

I also recommend DO-NOT chamfer the edge of your powder measure drum or the housing.

A powder baffle along with the technique you use will go a long way. I have even put two baffles in my RCBS powder measures along with a longer handle.

[country gent]

Doc, I have a highly modified RCBS uniflow. Being a tool and Die maker I just couldnt resist doing it. Started out upgrading to the micrometer adjustment. Then added a baffle to it. Then recut the radious in the top of The stem plug. Then jig ground the housing round and true, made a hardened steel drum to fit with in .0005 clearence. Ground sides of housing square and parallel to bore. Made side plates to limit end play to .001 each way. Polished inlet and outlet holes. made a pretty brass screw in "funnel" / drop tube for it. Of all this work the first 3 listed showed the biggest improvements the others show little or none but the ground surfaces made it much smoother to operate. I hadnt thought about the longer handle so now about the last unmodified piece will be modified. It does throw pretty consistent loads now if you keep the powder in its "range in the hopper". To do over again I would hone the bore if possible ( less metal removal over the jig grinder. That beisng said the baffle and Micrometer adjustment are the real works. Learning the powder level where it does its best is important to.

[ACrowe25]

I have found the Lee perfect powder measure to work the best with stick powders also.
Even more consistant than a friends $$$ Harrells at a small fraction of the cost.
Usually within +-0.1g.


I'm with you. Never had problems with my Lee PPM. Had a buddy come to my house to use MINE over his for Varget...

[Doc Highwall]

country gent, I did not go quite as far as you did, my drum was tight fitting and I did think about side plates but did not do them. I did recut the radius on the stem. My last modification is going to be to the powder measure holder and what my idea is, I want to make the powder measure lean back some so as to make the cavity more upright to make the filling of it more consistent. I also polished the inside of the housing to prevent hang ups of the powder.

[1bluehorse]

I just punch in the charge I want and hit enter.
then enter, then enter, then enter.
it goes as fast as I can seat the bullet and put it in the box.

Yup....that's exactly the same way I do it....wouldn't be without it..(RCBS Chargemaster)

[country gent]

Doc that makes sense be interesting to see how it helps works. Maybe a rotating head so angle to could be adjusted to find what helps. A simple qick easy mount would be a small c clamp with a small length or rod welded to it with a 7/8 14 nut welded at the proper angle. Cold be clamped to a shelf or your existing stand. Or a 1/2" X 1 1/4" plate with a 3/4" fine thread tapped one end and a 7/8" 14 thread at the right angle on the other. a 3/4" bolt should pass thru your existing stand to bolt it in place. Be interesting to try.
The side plates look impressive but really didnt do much in the way of consistency. I had thought about a carbide ring soldered top and bottom for extra hard cutting edges also. But grinding carbide interupted is a pain and the steel will eat a diamond wheel fast. Set up of that housing for all the work was a real pain since there are no straight or square machined surfaces to work off of. The cutting the radious into the stem head helps some but limits lower end charge weights. I know mine wont throw the 2.7 grns of bullseye for my wadcutter gun now. I also wondered about polishing the "funnel" under the hopper from cast to "mirrored" but decided that wouldnt make much diffrence either, and would be all hand work again.