Repainting Old Reloading Gear

[Thor's Daddy]

Here's a chance for you to show a young buck what you know:

I have an old Lyman 450 that I'm in the process of refurbishing. After cleaning it up a bit I've come to realize that it is in need of repainting. I suppose I could use it as-is and it would function just fine. But I'd rather put in a bit of effort to have it not only running, but LOOKING tip-top before I go and goo it all up again.

That being said, I grew up in a very hands-off environment and find myself in middle age missing much of the garage and workshop skill set needed for such an undertaking. I suppose I could stumble through, but would prefer a nice step-by-step as to how someone should go about refinishing a piece of old reloading gear- from removing the old paint to the finished product. Not that I'm a complete doofus, my hands work fine. I'd just prefer to NOT bugger this thing up if possible (plus I've got a press and powder measure that could use some freshening as well)

Please note, this needs to be a low-tech-hands-on project as there's no sandblaster or spray booth in my tool box.;)

thanks in advance-
Rod

[FLHTC]

Photograph it from every angle and enough so, that assembly will go easy. Then disassemble it and strip the paint.. The orange casting will need to be cleaned of all lube and this won't be easy without heat. Id personally use a torch to clean it and a wire brush. Keep in mind that the linkage is a bluing of sorts so paint might be a little too thick on this. The casting is easy. Strip it, clean it, scrub it, burn it and paint it.

[Chilmonty]

If it is one of the Orange sizers, I would only paint the parts that is still Orange. Like FLHTC said some parts might not work too well if painted.
JMO, Good Luck!

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Lots of paints out there, However, some which go on just fine tend to chip.

So, with any of my metal fabrication that is going to be seen and needs to look good AND LAST, I have just started having it powder coated.

Worth the time and money and it only needs to be done once.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[MtGun44]

Stipping and cleaning by grit blasting - AFTER PROTECTING ALL MACHINED
SURFACES with tape - like duct tape - will ensure good adhesion. I agree that
finding a powder coater and having it done will produce a really durable coating.

Bill

[429421Cowboy]

My brother does alot of mechanics and engine work (not really my thing but i help out) and one thing i have picked up from that is the high temp engine enamel spray paint, that stuff is really high quality stuff and lasts a long time! I believe his favorite is the Rustolem kind, you should have no trouble finding the bright orange you are looking for at your local Napa auto parts store. It lays on pretty thick and seems to be very tough, it certainly does hold up to high heat (not that that is an issue here) and maintain its gloss and not get dull and faided from oil and grime after you wash it off. Just an idea! And as others have said, be careful on the tolerences with the moving bits, it would supprise you how well a layer of paint or powder coat can change things! and be certain to make sure you degrease the entire unit and put it somewhere clean and dust free before and during drying. Good luck, pictures, we do love those pictures once you're all done!

[floydboy]

I have repaired/rebuilt nearly all of my equipment. I chemically strip. Use sand paper and wire brush where necessary. Paint with the best rustoleum you can fine. You will be pleased with the results. Last real good.

Floyd

[Thor's Daddy]

Thanks for all the tips, gentlemen. The idea of having it powder coated really rubs against my DIY ethic, so I'll probably give it a whirl with the engine block enamel. My five-year-old son is pushing for a nice bright yellow. I guess we'll see what we can come up with. I just need it to warm up a dozen degrees or so. Too dang cold to paint this week.

Pictures forthcoming!!

[country gent]

Be sure and plug tape seal all holes and tapped holes threads before you paint it. A good primer base makes most paints adhere much better. A wire brush cleaning either by hand or ran in a drill will help remove old paint and debrie. Chemically cleaning is good to rinse thoughroly with water and dry well before priming and painting. Hang it out of the way on a wire to spray paint it. Have a place ready for it to dry before you start painting it.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

You can DIY with powder coating. Just need to get the kit and do your own sand blasting.

The powder coat cures in mama's oven. ;)

If I really thought the press REALLY needed???? painting, and mine won't, then powder coat makes all the effort worth the effort.

Let us know how using mama's oven for curing the powder coat works out for ya! ;-)

CDOC

[yooper]

I hate to be the dissenting voice but you're talking a mechanical device with what - 10 or 15 parts max? It's not like you're carving into some guy's heart or brain. It was assembled by humans and can be disassembled, in reverse order, by humans. The absolute worst thing that can happen is you end up with a small box of parts, clean and freshly painted, that you can't put back together without help. During disassembly, pay good attention to what you did, write it down and you'll likely have no problems. On the bigger/grungier parts, pay a small auto body shop to sandblast them for you. There are a lot of GREAT paints on the market that you can refinish them with in your choice of colors and finishes. Relax, enjoy what your're doing and enjoy the results when you get it finished. Also, be sure and post pictures so we can enjoy it with you when you're done. JMHO.
yooper

[cheese1566]

1. Photograph all angles (nice to have before and afters to show off your work and see where parts go)
2. Get a exploded parts diagram for reference
3. Dissasseble and put your parts in a bin or old cake pan
4. Take more photos
5. Heat the main body to melt out all the old lube.
6. Scrub the body while still warm.
7. Degrease the body
8. Degrease again
9. Degrease again
10.Degrease again (get my point? surface prep is everything)
11. If the paint started to bubble and come off because of the degreaser used you have to be committed to go to bare meatl everywhere
12. Final degrease with actetone. lacquer thinner (i ilke to suspend from a wire and blast with brake cleaner)
13. Drip dry and never tough with bare hands.
14. carefully mask out areas you dont want paint...threaded areas
15. Spray with RustOleum HammerTone Finish (give a light coat, then a medium heavy coat to get the texture-just not too heavy to create sgas and runs) (
16. Dries to the touch in a hour but let it sit for a week. It will be "soft" for a while but hardens strong in time. Good stuff.

[gcollins]

Hi Guys,
I am not trying to hijack the threat because I also try to keep my stuff nice! DOES anyone know why I can find wrinkle finish paint? I bought a real nice Redding (3-3BR?) powder dump that has been shot with dark green paint (in like green)?
Greg

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

I have used Hemmerite paint, some of their products having a very nice texture, but not quite a wrinkle. I think that Craylon also has a testured finish.

However, as nice as the Hammerite paint looks with it's bit of duel tone, it chips.

I went to the expense and time to use that finish on a custom steel bed frame - Queen Size - and it looked great! The bed was for sale, but when it didn't sell and the wife said it was going into our bed room, the whole thing, head and foot board and side rails all went to the powder coater.

That was of course after I removed the Zebra Wood accent panels in both pieces.

They sand blasted the entire frame before appling the powder coat.

I planned on and the wife agreed on, a nice smooth finish. But when I looked at the samples, they had a great textured finish that won. Great looking and Looooooong lasting finish.

Great texture that we both like very well.

I still vote for powder coat if your going to all this effort. Other wise just clean very well and forget stripping the old finish. Just paint over it!

If your paint is any good, who will know? If it chips and shows through to the old paint, well you should have gone the powder coat route to start with.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Kevin Rohrer]

DOES anyone know why I can find wrinkle finish paint?

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/wrinkle-finish.aspx

[seagiant]

Hi,
Here's a before and after for an example of how some TLC can bring back an old loader. This is a Lachemiller shotshell loader that actually makes a pretty nice shell!

[gcollins]

Thanks Kevin:grin: To bad the only colors were Red and Black, if I thought the Redding Light Green wood cover good I might buy a can of that Black and then shoot over it with the green, but I am sure that it would take a couple coats and then I would loose the effect![smilie=b:
seagiant, NICE JOB!
I will just keep looking?
G

[vernb]

I just cleaned up a Dillon 550 and an RCBS press and powder drop and a pile of dies I got for FREE ! Thank goodness for the citric acid sticky, I thought the powder drop was a lost cause until I pulled it from this miracle solution ! Unfortunately it removed the blueing . Will cold blue work for this or should I try a different finish.

[W.R.Buchanan]

The Lyman 450 was painted machine gray. Take it apart and use Cheese's check list. Then spray it with Rustoleum Gray. Rustoleum Hammertone gray is another good choice because it will hide any surface imperfections that you didn't handle when apart.

I'm a big fan of Hammertone colors. I use the paint alot on my Jeep project and on various tools and fixtures

I have bench rest that was orange and is now Hammertone gray, the wheels on all of my Jeeps are Hammertone gray. :mrgreen:

Easy to touch up as well!

Randy