Scratching the surface with the 9mm....any input appreciated

[FN in MT]

I used to have good access to reasonably priced 115 and 124 gr FMJ bullets from a local source. That has gone away.

So I decided to start casting for the only pistols I still use jacketed in....my SIG/BHP 9mms. I have a pair of 5" X-5's, an older 226, a Bar-Sto barreled 229 and a lone BHP.

After reading MtnGun 44's sticky on how he approached reloading for his 9mm......I Cleaned my barrels thoroughly to get rid of any Jacket fouling. Then I Slugged my barrels and found that the four SIG's run .3565" to .357". So my .358" sizer die should work fine.


Needed a mold as my #356402 gave me basically .357" or .005" less as cast. So last week I ordered a NOE 135 gr RF, five cavity mold. Arrived in a few days and it's a thing of beauty.
Cast a hundred plus yesterday with some WW's and 2% tin that I had in the furnace. Sized those to .358" last night. they averaged 133 grs w/lube.

Also loaded a few dummy rds to check if the chambers on the SIG's would tolerate the slight bulge of a larger slug versus jacketed. All OK, no issues.
Pulled the slugs on the dummies and despite a mild taper crimp I can't note any reduction in diameter from .358" All good so far.

My Dillon is set up for 9's and had some Winchester Super Field in the measure.


So I loaded six rds with 3.8 WSF and averaged 946 fps with good accuracy.

Next I tried 4.0 grs and averaged 1002 with VERY nice accuracy and a mere 16 fps ES. (though 6 rds is far from a thorough test sample)

Lastly I did 4.2 grs WSF and was surprised to see an avg of only 1019 fps. Would have expected a bit more with the extra .2 gr.


Next I tried WW 231......... 3.6 grs gave me an average of 982 fps.
3.8 grs gave me an average of 1026 fps
Both of these were in the same 2" group size at 20 yds that the others gave me. Probably not a true test as the wind was gusting 15-25 mph maybe more.
So I felt these were ALL potentially accurate enough for what I want.

I then loaded another 20 with the 3.8 of 231 load, simply to shoot some steel and to put some rds down the barrel.


Now the issue....... I am getting some leading, not horrific, but still after fifty or so rds it concerns me. I can shoot my three 1911's with my cast loads all day long and leading isn't an issue.

Should I try a harder alloy? I checked 2 slugs and got a bnh of 14 or so.

Try a different lube? I was using White Label Carnuba Red. I have their "Special blend" and their "X-Lox 2500 plus" available as well as some old Lyman ALOX.

I have Bullseye, AAC #5, WW 231, WST, WSF, Clays, Univ Clays , Red Dot and pprobably a few other pistol powders available....different powder...faster...slower?

I'm trying to save myself time and energy here by trying to NOT reinvent the wheel so to speak.

Any learned input appreciated.


FN in MT

[rintinglen]

I have used ww-231 in my own P-6 without leading, but my lead runs a tad softer, in the 10-12 range. That 3.8 load is a standard with me.
If you have some pure lead, or range recovery, I'd add a couple pounds to the melt and see if you can't get the hardness down a smidge. Failing that, I'd water drop them and look for a BHN around 20. There are many ways to skin a cat, but not all work on every cat.

[Catshooter]

I had to resort to water-dropping my wheel weight alloy to get the leading to stop. But that did it.

I use LARs 2500, love it.


Cat

[bobthenailer]

For my 9mms & 38 supers i prefer a TC nose profile over a RN, as the TC is more accurate from my guns as well as a 145gr swc from saeco. i use water dropped from the mould WW alloy sized @.357 dia for all guns , i also use Carnuba red lube. and have found that i usually get the best absulate accuracy with powders in the med fast to med burn range such as WSF , Powerpistol and HS6.
I only use a certian brand of brass for each load, as using various brands of brass in a load usually will open the door for inaccuracy in any cartradge and even more so in the 9mm.

[Char-Gar]

The 9mm round is not a "booger bear" to load and in fact it is quit easy;

1. Any good RN or TC nose flat base bullet will do in the 115 to 125 grain range.

2. Any alloy of Bhn 10 or harder will do just fine.

3. Any decent bullet lube will do just fine.

4. Seat the bullet so just a smidge of body is out of the case mouth. Just enough to taper crimp on.

5. Taper crimp the round.

6. Use a charge of 3.5 Bulleye

7. For best accuracy separate your cases by make and length.

8. Size bullets .358

These rounds will produce 1,050 fps +- 20 fps and run in any autopistol, carbine or subgun.

Go shooting and enjoy.

[MtGun44]

What lube? I usually use NRA 50-50 or LBT soft blue with excellent results
with AC wwt alloy.

Bill

[EMC45]

This is my method....I use a Lee 120gr. TC standard lube groove bullet sized to .358. I seat till about 30 thou. of the sidewall (before the taper begins) shows above the case mouth. I use a taper crimp to remove the "bell". This bullet is seated over a charge of 3.5-3.8gr. Bullseye with a CCI or Wolf SPP. Both have proven to be accurate loads out of my MK3 BHP.

[FN in MT]

Tried a few more loads today despite the windstorm. Had to hang a 10# ingot from the sawhorse so my crony wouldn't blow over.

Using WW 231 and a slightly harder alloy seems to be working fine. The 3.8 load is accurate and function all three guns I tried.

I have been segregating cases. i'm aware that case capacities, neck tension, weights vary widely in the nines.

My issue is leading. Shot 100 rds today and the other two SIG 226's seem to be clean. So maybe the other gun simply has some roughness near the lands? Where I was picking up the leading.
Tired of standing in the wind for one day. I'll try the BHP and the 229 tommorow.

Going to try some BULLSEYE too.

Cast 600 more from the NOE mold this morning. I've always hated aluminum molds as the only ones I ever used were LEE's. This is a GALAXY away from a Lee mold!

Appreciate the posts Gentleman.

FN in MT

[Hogdaddy]

I use a Lee 124 TC-TL mold lube as droped .358,, 5gr Unique Shoots fine in all 3 9s ; ) PS 45-45-10 Lube works fine
H/D