Reload Map 44 Rem Mag...

[OOBUCK]

Looking to see if someone may have a load map for a .44 Rem. Mag...I am starting to load these. Also any tips on successes with certain gun powders would be helpful too. Thanks matt

[turmech]

I would love to help and forgive my ignorance but what is a load map?

[John Allen]

Matt,
I use unique for low power loads. I would get a couple of manuals the lyman one is great.

[Maven]

OO, This may be of interest to you: http://www.google.com/cse?cx=001951264366462437169%3Aggn3vg-bjum&ie=UTF-8&q=.44mag.+reloading+data&sa=Search

[gray wolf]

Try the hodgons data center, the Lyman book, rcbs book, also most of the loading books are a very good place to start.

[462]

What, you're reloading without a manual!?

[stubert]

You'll find w-296 and h-110 to be 2 of the most recomended powders for full power loads, Do NOT reduce powder charges wih them.

[ubetcha]

I see that this is your first post, so welcome to the site.Alot of knowledgeable people here to help.Published load data from powder and bullet manufactures are always a good place to start.Follow them pretty much to the letter.When you have a good understanding of all thing involved,then you might want to experiment a little.With the up most caution of course

[littlejack]

Matt:
Welcome to the CastBoolits.
Is the 44 magnum, your first expierience in reloading ammunition sir? You wii definately need to get at least one, and preferably a few reloading manuals. As stated above, go to the powder manufactuers sites, and they will have reloading data for there powders. Do not feel intimidated here, and please ask all of the questions you need to. We are not here to run members down, and the seasoned reloaders have plenty of knowldge, and are willing to help.
Reguards
Jack

[longbow]

I like IMR4227. Can't recall when I started loading with it but it does about everything I need with my .44 mag Marlin, other than loading for my light little 165 gr. TC boolit ~ they seem to need a faster powder.

The main reason I use IMR4227 is that not only does it give me good results, I also us it for cast boolit loading for my .308 and .303's as well. I have used it for boolits as light as 220 gr. in my .44 and as heavy as 300 gr. Good results all around.

I have used H110 as well and especially under heavy boolits but I find 4227 more flexible and more useful for other things.

A lot will depend on what weight boolits you plan to shoot, what gun(s) your are loading for and what you are shooting at. If you are wanting to plink and punch paper then requirements will be different than for hunting.

If you give us a few more details I am sure you will get more specific replies to suit your needs.

Longbow

[wv109323]

Good powders for the.44 Mag are Unique and 2400. You didn't give bullet weight and that will determine powder charge.

[ipijohn]

All I shoot is 429421's with Unique or 2400 under them. I go by the book for powder weights.

[gandog56]

I pretty much use 2400 powder for ALL my magnum pistols.

If I want to shoot mild loads I shoot .44 specials in my .44 magnum. (Which I also reload, of course!)

[429421Cowboy]

First, welcome to the forum!
Until we get more details, most of us will be rather vague about our replies, especially until we make sure you have and will follow a good load manual. I however, can certainly reccomend Unique as a top-notch powder for a beginning reloader in cartridges such as .44 mag (if you can manage to find any in these trying times). It bulks nicely, so double charges are easy to spot and generally will overflow the case. It also has a very wide safe charge range for most boolit weights, this gives you some leeway in terms of powder charges. I load more Unique than any other powder, everything from my midrange practice loads up to my 250 gr Keith boolit hunting loads are charged with it, i feel that it is one of the most versatile powders out there, it can load shotgun, pistol and cast rifle loads beautifully. I i could only have one powder, i would not even stop to think twice about which one i would grab!

[Bullwolf]

Perhaps the original poster is referring to those cartridge load maps, that Midway USA used to put out. They contained load data for both cast and jacketed commercial boolits, which made them kind of interesting.

Here's an example of the 44 Magnum Midway USA load map.

64668

64669

I've seen Midway USA Load maps for:
9mm
357Magnum
45ACP
44Magnum
Maybe there are a few more that I haven't seen.

They were interesting to read, but the load data and OAL info was kind of sketchy and somewhat dated. I would trust a modern reloading manual a whole lot more.

I have a few of the Midway USA Load Map hard copies, and have .pdf files of them as well. Feel free to PM me about them if anyone wants.

I would recommend trusting the powder manufacturers more recent load data, or using a modern reloading manual over the Midway USA cartridge load maps. They were just another reference to check on for comparison purposes.


- Bullwolf

[jackmanuk]

I use 24 grains of 4227, in my 44 rifle as a fun kicking load , I tried 26 but was to compressed the bullet did not seat all the way in. And resulted in less compression and was just wasting powder .

I go all the way down to 14 grains maybe even try 12 for the 25 yard shots where power is not nessersary

[bobthenailer]

I also have the Midway load map in 44 mag . for loads from 800 to 1,100 fps i use Tightgroup or Bullesey powder, for med loads HS6 powder. for full loads WC820 , 296, H110 , Lilgun powder

[44man]

A lot of good advise. My favorite caliber.
But too much is missing, the gun, the bullet or boolit and the use of the gun.
The 4227 powders are accurate but will NOT like a hot gun in the .44. Unique, 231, 2400, H110 and 296 will cover all uses.
Bullwolf, thanks for showing those things, I never seen them before.

[BubbaJon]

I like those Midway loads - they are much more realistic than the "he-man" wrist-breaker loads you see people promote. Just because Elmer Keith liked 23 grains of 2400 does not mean squat to me when it kicks like a mule and I get 12" groups at 50 yds. Seriously myself and two other cast shooters thought our commercial boolits from Dardas, Oregon Trail, LBT etc were **** because these loads just didn't work. I got QuickLoad program and I was pretty astonished to see that to get 1,500 fps or so all I needed was about 16 gr of 2400. I tried it and my groups and POI improved radically. So my personal opinion is most of the 2400 loads you see posted that are 21+ grains are just for people that are blindly repeating a load created 60 years ago. YMMV

[BubbaJon]

I also have the Midway load map in 44 mag . for loads from 800 to 1,100 fps i use Tightgroup or Bullesey powder, for med loads HS6 powder. for full loads WC820 , 296, H110 , Lilgun powder
H110/W296 are not good choices for plain cast. The manufacturers don't even list any loads for cast. It burns too hot. 2400 is a good slower powder for cast and Unique can give you a range from cowboy to hunting using 6-10.5 gr.
I like Lil'Gun a LOT for heavier jacketed or gas checked boolits weighing in more than the "standard" 240 gr. It doesn't seem to do a lot for lighter boolits. But it has a unique burning profile that results in lower pressure for same or better velocities than you can get with 2400 or H110. I notice the recoil is "smoother". My groups using 255-270 gr boolits tightened up substantially. But - it burns very hot so I would not use it with plain cast either. Some folks say that it can also cause throat erosion but it seems that is mostly in teh Freedom Arms 454 Casul pistols for the most part.

[462]

00BUCK, If you are looking for a copy of the Midway's LoadMAP, I apologize for my previous post. I thought you were inquiring about the cartridge's pressure, which I read as you not having a reloading manual.

I have LoadMAPs for .357 Magnum and .45 ACP, and have used them in conjunction with other manuals.

[44man]

H110 and 296 will work just fine with a PB boolit. I shoot PB all day at 1631 fps from my 45-70 revolver and have gone to 55,000 psi in the .454 with extreme accuracy and no leading. H110 and 296 DO NOT BURN HOT. Since they burn slower, particles of powder will sandblast the cone edges.
You equate Lil Gun heat with caliber but it will ruin a .357 too. It has nothing to do with a boolit base. This powder will erode steel.
I don't see what boolit you get 1500 fps with with only 16 gr of 2400. Elmer's load was 22 gr with the 429421. It is a pleasant load and pretty accurate.
I feel your 12" groups at 50 yards are YOU or the store bought boolits. You just might fear recoil. I can tell you 296 and a good boolit will do 1/2" to 3/4" at 50 yards with 296 and 1" to 1-1/4" at 100 yards.
You are fairly new here and it is good to have you but you have much to learn and there is no better place.
Just some work with my 265 RD boolit gave me this at 50 and 100 yards using 22 gr of 296. I hit the rail with the last shot so I aimed higher for the last at 100 yards with my SBH. I hit higher on the can.

[44man]

H110/W296 are not good choices for plain cast. The manufacturers don't even list any loads for cast. It burns too hot. 2400 is a good slower powder for cast and Unique can give you a range from cowboy to hunting using 6-10.5 gr.
I like Lil'Gun a LOT for heavier jacketed or gas checked boolits weighing in more than the "standard" 240 gr. It doesn't seem to do a lot for lighter boolits. But it has a unique burning profile that results in lower pressure for same or better velocities than you can get with 2400 or H110. I notice the recoil is "smoother". My groups using 255-270 gr boolits tightened up substantially. But - it burns very hot so I would not use it with plain cast either. Some folks say that it can also cause throat erosion but it seems that is mostly in teh Freedom Arms 454 Casul pistols for the most part.
You will get help here. It is how you load. Fellas here will make a revolver shoot like a rifle. Just lose all the notions you have. Throw out the gun rags first. You will see crazy stuff here with fellas that will go out of their way for you but you must listen and try.
This is a 50 yard group I shot with the .500 JRH using 296. it is where we want you to be. Yeah, we are crazy as a loon but you can do it.
Will you listen to my friends?

[turmech]

One of my favorite loads is 21.5 grains of 2400 with a 429421. It averages 1450 fps out of a 7 ½ “ SBH. I can't shoot quite as good as 44 man, but 3” groups at a 100 yard is normal with the red dot scope which is on it. At a l00 yards the dot more than covers the bullseye. I think with a different scope I could shrink the group some.

[felix]

It's impossible to hit unseen targets unless by chance. Heavy duty confidence gained by many years of experience is about the only thing which allows such hits. ... felix

[BubbaJon]

You equate Lil Gun heat with caliber but it will ruin a .357 too. It has nothing to do with a boolit base. This powder will erode steel.
I don't see what boolit you get 1500 fps with with only 16 gr of 2400. Elmer's load was 22 gr with the 429421. It is a pleasant load and pretty accurate.
I feel your 12" groups at 50 yards are YOU or the store bought boolits. You just might fear recoil. I can tell you 296 and a good boolit will do 1/2" to 3/4" at 50 yards with 296 and 1" to 1-1/4" at 100 yards.
You are fairly new here and it is good to have you but you have much to learn and there is no better place.
Just some work with my 265 RD boolit gave me this at 50 and 100 yards using 22 gr of 296. I hit the rail with the last shot so I aimed higher for the last at 100 yards with my SBH. I hit higher on the can.
Nope - not a flincher a'tall. I have a microgroove Marlin 1894. I'd say anyone that says any bullet can be made to shoot in any gun or that it's always the marksman's fault needs to reconsider. I shoot the heavy loads of H110 and 2400 just fine with the standard boolits - best groups I get are with Speer 240 gr JHC using 22 gr of 2400. Cast is a little more problematic in the MG barrel and I've found the general wisdom to not exceed 1,500 fps in a MG barrel with cast is pretty good advice. Yes I shoot oversized before you accuse me of being that green. New here does not mean wet behind the ears. If you'd read what I wrote you'd see that the groups tightened up with the reduced velocity - same boolits. I don't find 22 gr of 2400 behind a heavy boolit "pleasant" - maybe that's just me because I usually shoot at least a hunnerd rounds when I go to the range trying out different loads. A couple dozen of those cease to be fun quick.
If you look at the chat on the 'net there are a lot of complaints about Lil'Gun and most refer to the Freedom Arms 454 Casull pistol. Note that Lil'Gun is also a "slow" powder and yet will heat up a barrel in very short order. I admit to having a wet rag handy to wipe the barrel down with when i shoot more than a few rounds using Lil'Gun.

From Bob Baker of Freedom Arms:
We have seen numerous barrels damaged by using Lil Gun. According to customers, some had as few as 30 rounds using Lil Gun through them, some had several hundred. Before we figured out what was happening one customer had sent his gun in for a new barrel. Then 600 rounds later it came back for another new barrel.
A couple years ago we did a test with a M83, .357 Mag. using Hornady 180 gr. bullets. We loaded 50 rds. of three different loads. One was a heavy H-110 load and the other two both used Lil Gun in different quantities.
We fired the H-110 loads first, then cut off the threaded end of the barrel. Rethreaded the barrel and shot one of the Lil Gun loads then rethreaded the barrel and shot the last Lil Gun load.
We found even the light load of Lil Gun caused the gun to get extremely hot. The heavy Lil Gun load had the gun so hot the only place we could touch the gun was on the grips and they were very hot.
Under magnification the surface appeared to have heated to a point of flowing using the Lil Gun loads and the heavy load was worse than the light load. This is probably due to Lil Gun having about 10% more nitro glycerin in it than H-110.

[BubbaJon]

You will get help here. It is how you load. Fellas here will make a revolver shoot like a rifle. Just lose all the notions you have. Throw out the gun rags first. You will see crazy stuff here with fellas that will go out of their way for you but you must listen and try.
This is a 50 yard group I shot with the .500 JRH using 296. it is where we want you to be. Yeah, we are crazy as a loon but you can do it.
Will you listen to my friends?
I don't read gun rags and I try different loads with a a range log to see what works and what doesn't. I'm ALWAYS willing to listen to friendly and non-condescending advice. I'm the first to step up and admit what I know is a drop in the bucket. But that does not mean I'm a doofus without a clue. My advice was not meant to be "wrong" - I simply note what my results have been and I got leading with H110 using PB cast - and I'm not the only one. I was advised to not use H110 on PB cast and I tried anyway - and got just what they said I'd get. So I'd hope there's room for all opinions here when it's backed with empirical results. Perhaps I should have qualified that this was in a MG rifle - I can accept that. My cast runs about 12 BHN, the commercial boolits range from 16-22 BHN - that LaserCast is pretty tough stuff.
As I also stated there were two other guys with cast that were having issues in the same sort of rifle - we even swapped some boolits so we could do individual experiments. I'm working up from 16 gr to see if I can find the sweet spot - I suspect that a little stouter would be better. I merely pointed out that the Midway data is a rarity in that it shows those lower loads - most don't and start right out in the 21+ gr range. Furthermore they advise against reducing those loads by much - H110 specifically says 3% which would be what, +- .7 gr? So - I feel like that reduced load advice with 2400 is more of a myth given my excellent results with a 27% reduction in the "standard" Keith load. Plus - the nice thing is my POI with these "low powered" rounds is they still have a POI within 2" of the jacketed boolits powered by the H110. I call that a win-win.
It is also telling to me that neither Hodgdon nor the Lyman Cast manual provide any load data for Lil'Gun or H110 for any cast - yet the same bullet in jacketed has both. I'd expect they both know their business.
Anyway - I'd appreciate a little more civil response given that these aren't things I pulled out a dark nether anatomical region - they're based on mine and other's experiences. Not to say I expect everyone to agree or even blindly accept my advice - just be 'nice' about it - 'K?

[Moonie]

I've used heavy charges of W296/H110 in .357, 44Mag, .445 SM and Ruger Only 45 Colt loads with no issues, no leading and they have proven to be very accurate with plain based cast boolits. I didn't know any better when I started using them 20+ years ago.

[44man]

Your boolit is too soft in the .44. Use Water dropped WW metal that will be 20 to 22 BHN. It is not hardness with the store bought, it is FIT and ALLOY. It is also a very poor, hard lube.
Check around here and you will see many shooting very soft lead at high velocities with no leading. I don't and prefer WW metal.
I use 296 and it is the same as H110 today, before Hodgdon took WW powders there was a titch difference in burn rate. Both CAN be reduced to a certain point. 2400 is good and can take more reduction but you do not want to go too far either.
Now the Marlin has the wrong twist rate of 1 in 38". Not much will shoot. They also need fatter boolits.
You must not get upset. We will be civil and offer help, never take us wrong. You need to ease off with preconceived notions.
You must be willing to accept what members say without thinking they are disputing. Then it is up to you. No place on earth has so much knowledge about cast.
If you think you can't shoot 1" groups at 100 yards with a revolver and cast, I have news for you.
You need to lose the chip on your shoulder first, then real learning can begin.
You seen what others say and don't ever doubt Felix, he says little but what he does say is profound. My biggest goal is to take his hand but soon you will see that I feel the same about everyone here.

[BubbaJon]

Your boolit is too soft in the .44. Use Water dropped WW metal that will be 20 to 22 BHN. It is not hardness with the store bought, it is FIT and ALLOY. It is also a very poor, hard lube.
Check around here and you will see many shooting very soft lead at high velocities with no leading. I don't and prefer WW metal.
I use 296 and it is the same as H110 today, before Hodgdon took WW powders there was a titch difference in burn rate. Both CAN be reduced to a certain point. 2400 is good and can take more reduction but you do not want to go too far either.
Now the Marlin has the wrong twist rate of 1 in 38". Not much will shoot. They also need fatter boolits.
You must not get upset. We will be civil and offer help, never take us wrong. You need to ease off with preconceived notions.
You must be willing to accept what members say without thinking they are disputing. Then it is up to you. No place on earth has so much knowledge about cast.
If you think you can't shoot 1" groups at 100 yards with a revolver and cast, I have news for you.
You need to lose the chip on your shoulder first, then real learning can begin.
You seen what others say and don't ever doubt Felix, he says little but what he does say is profound. My biggest goal is to take his hand but soon you will see that I feel the same about everyone here.
I'm sorry - but telling someone that they were a little short and borderline rude is not a chip on my shoulder. I wouldn't be here if it weren't for the vast amount of knowledge. But - I am in fact allowed to make up my own mind based on what I have observed and experienced PLUS rely on other casters that I know personally and respect their abilities.
I had some issues with my cast boolit alloy and described the problem exactly with photos. Virtually everyone here had it pegged as the mix/mold was too hot in spite of me saying that it was likely not. One guy - YOU - had the know-how to peg it correctly as zinc contamination - AND gave me the best advice for cleaning it. So - you should be able to see from that example alone I do not have a know-it-all attitude. Yes I know Marlin has an unfortunate twist rate - not a dang thing I can do about it. I have my boolits sized to .432 so fatter isn't the issue. I also know that 3% figure tossed around about H110 is nonsense lawyer speak - there's at least 10% play on the low side.
Now - most folks including Glen Fryxell say that in the day "hardcast" was 12 BHN and it worked just fine. It's also said that to quench harden boolits requires arsenic which most WW lack these days. I suppose if you were brave you could dump rat poison in as a flux. ;) The sample of my WW mix I had analyzed showed a very low percent and unfortunately most of it fluxed out with the zinc. Probably enough to quench harden to 20 BHN or so which still should be plenty hard enough - assuming I need a harder boolit. Lastly most folks I've read say that too hard is the cause of leading - not too soft. So who am I to believe? I believe that since I was shooting boolits that varied between 16 and 22 BHN and it only happened with H110 loads that the guys that told me H110 would be a problem were right. Doesn't happen with the equivalent of 2400. Anyway - there's enough powders to where I don't have to fret over details like that. It didn't work for me so move on to something that does. I get the impression somehow that my reducing a load and getting better results is somehow blasphemous. To me the goal is to get the best possible consistency with a a particular boolit.
Finally - I'm just not the type to listen at pappy's knee without asking questions - y'all should not take that as a challenge to your authority or expertise. I'm just trying to fit what y'all are saying into the puzzle pieces of what I already have and I do it by asking questions or explaining my findings so folks can tell me what it means. So I guess both sides have a little give and take to make. But I will say that I'm glad to be here and I respect the knowledge that's here. All I did was offer an opinion based on what I had discovered the hard way. Instead of telling me I'm wrong - perhaps it would have been "nicer" to ask why I said what I did instead of basically telling me I'm a noobie, sit down and shaddup.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?185731-Casting-questions

[mag_01]

I use 2400 (with hot loads) or AA#9 (close to max loads) --- with A 255gr. flat base bullet. Sorry to say that I never had luck with light loads in 44 mag. --- mag_01

[44man]

Bubbajon, I have no authority nor do I want any, I am the same as all here but I do know the revolver as most here do.
I will tell you everything I know just for trials that you need to do and everyone else will too. My pictures are to show that yes, indeed, you can do it. You might need to think outside the box is all.
Same as BHN of boolits, most of us do not like the numbers. It is what is in the metal and the toughness so they take the rifling. Lower BHN can be tougher then a super hard boolit. This has proven a tough problem because we do not all have the same WW's or lead. The thing is how do we explain lead any other way then BHN?
I found to see what your alloy does is to catch boolits to inspect and make sure the boolit has not skidded past the base band. Some skid at the front will not hurt but it MUST be stopped at the base. The GC is made to grab and seal at the base yet you can exceed it with a too soft boolit.
Going to a PB means a tougher lead. I know little about metals but tin can toughen so the BHN numbers are useless as tin does little to harden lead.
See where this is leading? I have had very poor results with some bought boolits no matter claims for being hard. Laser Cast and some bulk stuff never worked for me but Cast Performance and other good boolit makers have good stuff.
I tell you what my water dropped WW boolits are but it is kind of an ignore number, only that my boolits stop skidding with what I have.
The next thing is slump with any lead. You do not want ANY slump, the boolit should be recovered in the exact same shape as cast. Only rifling marks or impact damage. To cast 1000 boolits from a custom mold and have them all change shape when pressure hits them is just not good.
Have I made any sense?
Ask anything and you will get answers. If you can't reach 1" at 50 yards, WE will be disappointed.
This site is not for those that brag, it is to offer all the information ever learned about cast and to help. Sorry but I have no better way to show then pictures. My keyboard does not make me a shooter like you find at other places. I am old and cranky so don't take me wrong.
But I can't let you go yet. Just why does H110 cause a problem when 2400 doesn't? Just who told you that?

[jlchucker]

My own habit is to try data PUBLISHED in loading manuals first, before trying loads that individuals post on various websites. Beyond that, I'll write down my load results for the each powder and gun I use my handloads for. My primary concern is my own safety, and then accuracy with each gun I shoot. My loads will hit what I'm aiming at, and won't bounce off what I'm shooting at. Moreover, the gun I'm shooting won't blow up in my face. Just my opinion.

[David2011]

))Buck,

Welcome to CastBoolits. As mentioned, it will help if we know what weight boolit you intend to shoot, what you want to shoot with it and they type of gun or guns you'll be using. Loads that are appropriate for a Ruger or Contender could be excessive for a Colt or Smith and Wesson, for example. For heavy loads I like 2400 and for plinking, pleasant .44 Special level loads, Win231 is very clean burning and just about right.

David

[BubbaJon]

Bubbajon, I have no authority nor do I want any, I am the same as all here but I do know the revolver as most here do.
I will tell you everything I know just for trials that you need to do and everyone else will too. My pictures are to show that yes, indeed, you can do it. You might need to think outside the box is all.
Same as BHN of boolits, most of us do not like the numbers. It is what is in the metal and the toughness so they take the rifling. Lower BHN can be tougher then a super hard boolit. This has proven a tough problem because we do not all have the same WW's or lead. The thing is how do we explain lead any other way then BHN?
I found to see what your alloy does is to catch boolits to inspect and make sure the boolit has not skidded past the base band. Some skid at the front will not hurt but it MUST be stopped at the base. The GC is made to grab and seal at the base yet you can exceed it with a too soft boolit.
Going to a PB means a tougher lead. I know little about metals but tin can toughen so the BHN numbers are useless as tin does little to harden lead.
See where this is leading? I have had very poor results with some bought boolits no matter claims for being hard. Laser Cast and some bulk stuff never worked for me but Cast Performance and other good boolit makers have good stuff.
I tell you what my water dropped WW boolits are but it is kind of an ignore number, only that my boolits stop skidding with what I have.
The next thing is slump with any lead. You do not want ANY slump, the boolit should be recovered in the exact same shape as cast. Only rifling marks or impact damage. To cast 1000 boolits from a custom mold and have them all change shape when pressure hits them is just not good.
Have I made any sense?
Ask anything and you will get answers. If you can't reach 1" at 50 yards, WE will be disappointed.
This site is not for those that brag, it is to offer all the information ever learned about cast and to help. Sorry but I have no better way to show then pictures. My keyboard does not make me a shooter like you find at other places. I am old and cranky so don't take me wrong.
But I can't let you go yet. Just why does H110 cause a problem when 2400 doesn't? Just who told you that?
Yep - that does make sense. I wish I had a way to recover the boolits intact. My buddy has access to a private range down south of me so perhaps i can ask to see if he has any ideas.
Mostly some of the respected reloaders on the Marlin forum but I looked it up anyway trying to find a load for cast and found other places where folks said the same thing. I need to get a 5 gal bucket so I can quench the boolits properly - I tried in a shallow container and dinged my boolits - in spite of the towel with a slit trick.
I'm sold on H110 for light-standard weight jacketed bullets. But I have some LBT and NEI gas checked boolits I got from Montana Bullet works that still shot lousy (4" groups) with H110 - and I tried loads from 20.5 to 23 gr. I switched to Lil'Gun and not only did it make shooting those 270 gr WFN boolits more fun, it tightened the group to 1.5-2". The very same load gave me the best grouping I've ever got with the Hornady 265 JFP. I'd heard that Lil'Gun worked best on the heavier boolits and far as I see they're dead right about it. But boy o boy does it make the gun hot.
Anyway - I have no idea why the H110 did what it did and the 2400 didn't. It just did and with 2 different PB cast boolits - 240 LSWC from Dardas and same from Oregon Trail Lasercast. Dardas says theirs is 16 BHN and OT says 22. Took me awhile to clean up after them I tell ya. These same boolits shot terrible with 22 and 23 gr of 2400 - but as I said the group tightened up considerable when I reduced it to 16 gr. That's just the results with my gun but it gave me something to chew on. Soon as I get a chrony I'm going to see if Quickload is telling the truth that load sends 'em out at 1,400 fps. That should be just dandy for any of my purposes since I'm not in the see-how-fast-I-can-make-it-go camp.

[Cane_man]

for shorter bbls i like VV N105

[44man]

H110 and 296 will reach peak pressure just a little later then a faster powder so it reduces the initial thump on a boolit. But you are kind of stuck with using enough, that means faster that a certain boolit might not like.
2400 will help and is good stuff.
I am inclined to think it is just the boolits. I had a bunch of test boolits that just did not like velocity. Even my RCBS boolit shoots better with 7 to 10 gr of Unique and hates being pushed.
Another thing for you to try. I use the Fed 150 standard primer in all of my .44 loads. Give that a try. I have used them since about 1980 and they cut my groups.

[00buck]

Another 00buck? :)

[fcvan]

This has been a pretty good read. I've been loading for .41 mag since the 70s, the .45 Colt for the past couple years, and the .44 mag only recently. My wife had to have a Short barreled SBH. She likes warm loads on occasion but has asked for some softer plinker loads too. The only mold I had was a Lee C429-240 SWC which would do hot and mild loads but needed a gas check for hot and at least a card wad or filler for soft loads without. Today, I received a Lee 429-208 WC in a trade. I'm hoping this will be the ticket for .44 special/target load velocity from mag brass. Anyway guys, the tips above have been helpful for hotter plain based loads. Thanks for the good reading.

[Recluse]

Pretty useful thread for me, too--it increased my Ignore List.

:coffee:

[10mmShooter]

Kind of a forgotten powder for pistols....I use 7 grains of Green Dot for my target loads in 44 mag with a 250g K-SWC right at 950 fps out of an 8 in barrel.