look what I dug up

[phil3333]

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I bought these new about 25-30 years ago,I casted for my 44mag for about a year then
got busy with life and they went into the shed for storage

[IIJSavoy]

No pictures...

[Spawn-Inc]

i spy a computer novice!

you need to upload them to a photo site, or using the websites setup.

i use photobucket, here is a tutorial someone made.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?165493-How-to-use-Photobucket&highlight=upload+pictures

[phil3333]

guilty,thanks I will see if I can figure it out

[phil3333]

64175

[phil3333]

64176

[Wayne Smith]

Is it the picture or was that mold literally "dug up"?

[Dennis Eugene]

Man that mold looks rough, hope it's just the pic. Dennis

[phil3333]

well this stuff did sit in an outdoor shed for 25+ years

[Shakey Jakey]

That's criminal

[ultramag]

Is it the picture or was that mold literally "dug up"?


:lol::lol::lol:

[phil3333]

6421264213

[DonOhio39]

Damn! That's a shame.
Maybe an application of Naval Jelly would dissolve the rust and leave the mold usable? There is also a process called electralisis* that can be set up by handy types w/minimal gear, that cleans rust off to bare metal.**

*Spell check says that's not right.
**Never tried this myself, just seen it on the 'net.

Don in Ohio

[sundog]

Diamonds in the rough...

[Wal']

With a little TLC I'm sure they will rise to their full potential again.......:)

[oldtoolsniper]

http://www.evaporust.com/

I found it local at O'reillys auto. I bet most auto stores carry it. It works really well as long as you strip the grease and oil off. It removes blueing as well. It won't penetrate any oil or grease.... it's water based, I think.

[Randy C]

Send it to me and I will tell you it’s a lost cause and make a wall hanger out of it.

[ACrowe25]

Ouch like others said those look rough. Hopefully something can be done to pretty them up.

[Wayne Smith]

I sincerely doubt that there is any bluing left on that mold to 'ruin'! Evaporust would be my first choice.

[Chicken Thief]

Archeology is the term for finds like that!

[phil3333]

64279642806428164282

I threw it in with some brass I was tumbling with ss pins

[phil3333]

64283

[RayinNH]

Saint Elmer is going around like a pinwheel...Ray

[John Allen]

Try the evapo rust. it does work really well. Here is hoping for no pits.

[Taylor]

Looks like the handles are in really good shape.Sure gonna need a new sprue plate.Will the screw come out?

[phil3333]

Looks like the handles are in really good shape.Sure gonna need a new sprue plate.Will the screw come out?

yes the sprue plate screw comes out fine,I did have to drill out one of the screws that attaches the mold to the handle

[imashooter2]

64279642806428164282

I threw it in with some brass I was tumbling with ss pins

For crying out loud... Putting them in a machine to knock them against each other for an hour or two. :roll: Why would you do a dang fool thing like that?

[DLCTEX]

Smooth up the sprue plate with sandpaper on a flat surface, smooth the cavities with a boolits and mild abrasive (leementing). If there is any pitting in the cavities, this the only application I would use the spray on mould release for. Spray, let dry, and spin a boolit with mild abrasive to smooth. The mould release will fill pits.

[DLCTEX]

64283
What is the part in the lower photo? I'm assuming part of the lubesizer, but there is no such part on my Lyman 45.
I see no damage from letting them "bang together" and they sure look better.

[Walter Laich]

think that's the gas check seater. One came with my 450

[Shakey Jakey]

I think the sizer is on Ebay at about $125 right now.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

When I want to remove rust from steel or iron I just drop it in murietic acid for seven to ten minutes, cheap and it works everytime. I recently traded for a collection of reloading gear that included several bullit molds, one of which was a four cavity 38 cal made by Ideal. The other is a four cavity made by Modern Bond. They were not as bad as the one pictured, but close. I don't have before pictures so you will have to take my word for it. I should caution you that after removing the item from the acid you wash throughly and oil well.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

The Modern-Bond mold is obviously a two cavity, not a four. Sorry 'bout that.

[phil3333]

yep gas check seater,I may try the acid thanks

[Shakey Jakey]

Electrolysis is the way to go. You need a 5 gallon bucket, manual battery charger, arm & hammer laundry soda, water and some copper wire. MAGIC!

[imashooter2]

Electrolytic rust removal:

http://schoepp.hylands.net/electrolyticrust.html

A quick and easy set up I have used several times:

http://home.comcast.net/~imashooter2/pictures/ERR-out.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~imashooter2/pictures/ERR-in.jpg

[Shakey Jakey]

Exactly the setup I use except I have a steel bar that sits across the top, with solid copper wires, from romex, dangling off of. And since it is directional I doubled up on electrode hanging off the edge. I keep it under the laundry sink in the basement, if the water evaporates just fill it back up. The nice thing about this method is you have no additional etching. But, an automatic charger will not work.

[imashooter2]

Before and after from the setup above:

http://home.comcast.net/~imashooter2/pictures/rustydies-600.jpghttp://home.comcast.net/~imashooter2/pictures/cleandies-600.jpg

[Shakey Jakey]

I like how you went across the bottom with your electrode, I'll do that. Get a steel bar across the top, dangle copper wire from it and then you can clip your negative lead to any part of the cross bar. Makes set up much faster.

[imashooter2]

It also has another bend up in the rear that you can't see because of the paint stirrer. Think of a big "U."

I have already put the metal cross bar into the memory bank for next time. I have a bunch of flat stock that will do the job perfectly.

[phil3333]

It also has another bend up in the rear that you can't see because of the paint stirrer. Think of a big "U."

I have already put the metal cross bar into the memory bank for next time. I have a bunch of flat stock that will do the job perfectly.
how long does it take,can you use a car battery instead of a charger ?

[imashooter2]

The higher the voltage and amperage, the less time. Those dies sat in the soup for about 20 hours at 6v / 1 amp on that motorcycle trickle charger. I never much worried about the time since I have to sleep and work anyway...

You can use the battery, but the amperage is going to be pretty high with no way to control it except making the solution weak and / or increasing the distance between the anode and the part. Too much current might overheat and burn thin wire like the baling wire I use in my set. ROMEX such as Shakey Jakey uses will take more current.

Read the link from my first post and make sure you hook the wires up correctly.

[Shakey Jakey]

I use a 12v 6amp battery charger, works perfect.

[scheppy]

mix 1 cup of baking soda with a gallon of water......hook up jumper cables to a small 12v battery......connect the negative wire to a piece of junk copper and put in the bottom of container with water and baking soda......connect metal to be cleaned to positive wire.....dip for a few seconds at a time and keep inspecting until rust and corrosion is removed....hope this helps.....

michael

[3006guns]

mix 1 cup of baking soda with a gallon of water......hook up jumper cables to a small 12v battery......connect the negative wire to a piece of junk copper and put in the bottom of container with water and baking soda......connect metal to be cleaned to positive wire.....dip for a few seconds at a time and keep inspecting until rust and corrosion is removed....hope this helps.....

michael

STOP! That is backwards.......the negative lead should always go to the part to be derusted. Think "Negative...take away rust" and you'll keep it straight. Also, you should use iron or steel scrap in the bucket, no copper, no stainless, just ferrous iron or steel. An old steel oil can flattened out and hooked to positive will work fine. As the rust is removed from your part, the sacrificial anode (the steel oil can) will be eaten away. If you reverse the leads, your PART gets eaten away.

Although Arm and Hammer baking soda will work, their washing soda is much more effective.

The biggest and best thing about electrolysis is to enjoy it. Hook up the parts, plug in the charger and walk away. Once the oxide (rust) is removed the action will stop, so it's self limiting.

[Shakey Jakey]

mix 1 cup of baking soda with a gallon of water......hook up jumper cables to a small 12v battery......connect the negative wire to a piece of junk copper and put in the bottom of container with water and baking soda......connect metal to be cleaned to positive wire.....dip for a few seconds at a time and keep inspecting until rust and corrosion is removed....hope this helps.....

michaelLike 3006 said...wrong, wrong, wrong.

[zuke]

this is 12 hour's per side in SS media with lemmishine and dawn used exactly as when doing brass.
Obviously one side is done on these pic's.

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy356/zuke_bucket/DSCF2697_zps11f9a29d.jpg

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy356/zuke_bucket/DSCF2698_zps7962dee2.jpg

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy356/zuke_bucket/DSCF2696_zps3a3e643e.jpg

[Randy C]

Do you see any sign of damage from the media? UPS has my tumbler in transit it shows to be in Salt Lake City. I ordered mine at STM I bout the 15LB model and I have a lot of old what knots to try it on glade to see this post and you had success on that mold.

[Shakey Jakey]

Once you bite the boolit and set up an electrolysis system PROPERLY, you will forsake all other methods. But what do those who actually do it know?

[imashooter2]

Do you see any sign of damage from the media? UPS has my tumbler in transit it shows to be in Salt Lake City. I ordered mine at STM I bout the 15LB model and I have a lot of old what knots to try it on glade to see this post and you had success on that mold.

Hard to be sure from the pictures, but the edges of the mold cavity don't look sharp any more (2nd picture). It also didn't get all the rust.

[M-Tecs]

Once you bite the boolit and set up an electrolysis system PROPERLY, you will forsake all other methods. But what do those who actually do it know?

I have been very impressed using evapo-rust http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html but the next rusted item I clean will be with an electrolysis system set up PROPERLY. Hopefully I can find something like a mold so I can do one side with electrolysis and the other with evapo-rust.

[Shakey Jakey]

Just grab a rusty bolt or any rusty piece of steel out of the garage. Once you set it up you are hooked up for life, no sales pitch needed.

[Shakey Jakey]

65343 Just this simple. Dont try to over think it, use plain steel for positive electrodes, no Stainless steel, that keeps waste water safe, no dangerous heavy metals. Arm and hammer laundry soda, 2 dollars a box. Manual battery charger, negative goes to item being cleaned. KISS.

[Nose Dive]

bit a "tooth brush scrubbin" and pour 'em up son...U dun gud....

This is exactly the process I use to clean barrel of my milsurp rifles i buy. Slick and clean each time.

Nose Dive

Cheap, Fast, Good. Kindly pick two.

[oldtoolsniper]

bit a "tooth brush scrubbin" and pour 'em up son...U dun gud....

This is exactly the process I use to clean barrel of my milsurp rifles i buy. Slick and clean each time.

Nose Dive

Cheap, Fast, Good. Kindly pick two.

Must be a big tumbler. Got any pictures?

[nouseforaname1246]

What is washing soda? Ive never heard of it before.

[nouseforaname1246]

Nevermind, I just googled it. Good ol sodium carbonate. Looks like it isnt sold here in nevada though. But that gives me an excuse to do a little kitchen chemistry and convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate.

[Sasquatch-1]

If you have an old bore brush, chuck it up in a drill and try that on that little bit of rust remaining in the cavity. May need a little mild abrasive of some kind. Might even try a dry rag on a dowel or something similar with a little penitrating oil first.

[Shakey Jakey]

If you have an old bore brush, chuck it up in a drill and try that on that little bit of rust remaining in the cavity. May need a little mild abrasive of some kind. Might even try a dry rag on a dowel or something similar with a little penitrating oil first.NO dont do it!

[oldtoolsniper]

I get washing soda at the grocery store and I would bet chinamart will have it in the cleaning section.

[oldtoolsniper]

I don't think I would wire brush my molds either.

[Sasquatch-1]

OK, Maybe I didn't think the brass wire brush out very well, but I think the brass wire brush would do less damage to a steel mold then the SS media. As I said you can use a cloth on some sort of dowel to get out that last little bit. Also, there are nylon bristle brushes out there.

[Shakey Jakey]

Whatever you do, dont use the electrolysis method. This reminds me of having teenagers!

[ffries61]

Well I for one did rig an electrolysis setup, and a big thank you, to you guys for pointing me in that direction, I had a couple of improperly stored molds that needed a light rust removal, and it works great !!
Now I'm looking around the shop for some other things to de-rust :lol:

Fred

[Shakey Jakey]

SSSHHHH, dont tell.

[warf73]

Nevermind, I just googled it. Good ol sodium carbonate. Looks like it isnt sold here in nevada though. But that gives me an excuse to do a little kitchen chemistry and convert sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate.

I use soda ash, can buy it as any pool/hot tube dealer that sells pool chems. you can also use Arm & Hammer Washing Soda sold at Wal mart Kmart, Korger, IGA most any place that has a cleaning isle.

[TheGrimReaper]

I'll admit that mold does look really rough.

[zuke]

Hard to be sure from the pictures, but the edges of the mold cavity don't look sharp any more (2nd picture). It also didn't get all the rust.

He took them on trade for a really good deal. It wasn't till he got home he realized how bad a shape they were in. That was a couple year's ago, they've been in oil since then.
He told me about them and I thought I'd try it out. He had nothing to loose. I'm tumbling for 12 hour's then onto the wood pellet stove to dry off and heat up then into an oil bath.
I'm doing this as a favour, so time will tell.
I'm leaving a little bit for him to do, but the bulk of the work is done.
He has 5 mold's,and that's the worse one.

[imashooter2]

He took them on trade for a really good deal. It wasn't till he got home he realized how bad a shape they were in. That was a couple year's ago, they've been in oil since then.
He told me about them and I thought I'd try it out. He had nothing to loose. I'm tumbling for 12 hour's then onto the wood pellet stove to dry off and heat up then into an oil bath.
I'm doing this as a favour, so time will tell.
I'm leaving a little bit for him to do, but the bulk of the work is done.
He has 5 mold's,and that's the worse one.

Not meaning to offend, but you aren't making the molds better by rounding over the parting line. I highly recommend you make an electrolytic rig or use Evaporust to avoid further damage.