Nickel Cases for BPCR

[jim4065]

The new 38-55 Handi-Rifle is coming in today and I want to prepare some loads for it. Ken Waters says to fire form 30-30 cases by using 15 gr of Bullseye behind a twist of paper towel (no bullet). I'm going to do that but it makes me wonder - am I better off to blow out some nickel plated 30-30 brass? If they don't split during forming, they ought to be good for many more reloads with BP, right? Nickel seems to clean easier than brass - especially near BP fouling - in my very limited experience.

Another thing - I want this gun for shooting lead only. But would it be best to "polish" the bore with a hundred condom clad bullets first? Kinda like "seasoning" a cast iron pan? :cbpour:

[Harry O]

I have some nickel 38-40 "brass" so I can keep them separate from my brass 44-40 "brass". My eyes aren't what they used to be. Works for that, but never again. The necks crack much, much easier than brass "brass". They also crack in the transition (neck), which never happens with brass.

The reason is, nickel has much less elongation than brass. I would think that would mean that you definitely should not use them for fireforming. You will start cracks with the fireform that will grow even faster from there.

[Boz330]

Jim,
If you throw the brass in a jug of soapy water after firing and then brush them out later you shouldn't have any problems. I've been using the same brass since 91 in my 40-65 and could count on one hand the number I've thrown away.
When I got my C-Sharps 75 the break in procedure with it was to fire 10 rounds of jacketed cleaning after every shot and then 10 more cleaning after each 2 shots. That was with a Badger barrel. They said with lead bullets the process would take a hundred rounds.
If you go to Badgers web site they have the breakin proceedure listed IIRC. Don't know why it wouldn't work on the H&R. Keep us updated on this, I'm really curious how this rifle will do. They sure look nice in the adds.

Bob

[montana_charlie]

the break in procedure with it was to fire 10 rounds of jacketed cleaning after every shot and then 10 more cleaning after each 2 shots.
The part of that procedure that got left off was just the ending...
After you are done, be sure to clean out all of the copper fouling before starting with lead bullets.
CM

[beagle]

Look around and you may find some once fired tin plated proof cases. I have about 50 and they're really nice cases and last a long time./beagle

[Boz330]

The part of that procedure that got left off was just the ending...
After you are done, be sure to clean out all of the copper fouling before starting with lead bullets.
CM


Sorry I was working from memory and it's not that good anymore. But deffinately do that.

Bob

[Gussy]

38-55 cases made from 30-30 are very short. Get the real thing.
Gus

[NickSS]

I will second the statement to get the real thing. Fire formed 30-30s work but they are not as accurate as the real 38-55 cases as they are shott. There is two different length 38-55 cases the modern ones and the original ones. The modern ones are shorter by several hundreths of an inch. In my Modern C. Sharps high wall the modern cases give good results but I had to buy longer brass from buffalow arms for my 1913 vintage Winchester to get good results (also had to size my Boolets to .380 for that rifle).

[Gussy]

I just bought some starline "long" brass. My chamber, in a roller, is long and I have been getting leading. The only thing I can think of causing it is the short, now standard, cases. I will know soon.

Get the cases that fit the chamber.
Gus

[jim4065]

Well, I can't seem to find ammo locally, so I've gotta wait on Midway. Meanwhile, I did the "Ken Waters thing". I learned a couple of things right off:

1) The "twist" of paper towel will shoot through a 1/8" thick piece of plywood at a 2 foot range.

2) When you decide to drive 10 miles to a place where you can shoot skyward without alarming the citizens - even though it means wading through waist high tick and chigger infested weeds in 100+ degree temps to get there - the miserable %^&*^*%^*^**% extractor won't (3 shots into a batch of 60).

Pocket knife? Sure, it's at home where I can't hurt the brand new %^$! Case *@&($# blade. :twisted:

Back home now - enjoying a cold one while contemplating life. Fix the extractor tomorrow. :)

[Black Prince]

Jim

A man without a pocket knife might as well be neckid, so DON'T leave home without it.

I have nickel Starline cases for my 40-65 and I have standard brass cases. The nickel cases DO SPLIT more often than the brass cases and since I decap them and drop them in a plastic milk jug with water and Murphy's oil soap at the range, I don't notice any difference in the cleaning process. Just for my money, I think standard brass is the way to go and don't see any advantage to the nickel cases, especially given they cost more.