Kevlar Gloves

[30yrcaster]

Hello,

I read somewhere about using kevlar gloves for casting instead of leather. I see Enco has some rated 900 degrees for about $6.

Anyone use these?

Anyone use them to open the spru by hand?

How do they wear or last?

Thanks!!

[Bret4207]

Someone (Cabine Tree?) makes a handle that attaches to the sprue plate. I think thats a better idea than heavy gloves. Just a thought.

[Trapshooter]

I tried to look up the Kevlar gloves on Enco's web site, but it was down. I know Kevlar gives quite a bit of protection from sharp edges, but I don't know what its heat conducting or abrasion resistance properties are. I would think the 900F rating is more than necessary for casting use, but more is usually better.

For casting, I use Mule Hide brand leather palmed work gloves, (for cheap) from the local hardware / lumber yard for casting. It doesn't require a great deal of insulation, since your hand is only in contact with the sprue plate for a second or two. Not much heat travels through the leather in that short time. I get one size bigger than my usual for work gloves, so that in the event of a problem, I can sling them across the room in a big hurry. Haven't had to test that yet, knock on wood.

For smelting I use cotton flannel heat resistant gloves from McMaster-Carr (about $3/pr). The gloves are rated for 375F, and have a long cuff. Abrasion resistance is not as good as leather but heat transfer is much lower. As long as they stay fairly clean and dry, the ladle handle or half cooled ingot molds aren't a problem. Sweat, or grease / oil / antifreeze or "what ever ends up in the wheel weight bucket" reduce the insulation value a little so I keep a couple pairs handy if the wheel weights are unusually filthy. When the gloves get too dirty, they can be washed and are as good as new when dry. A freshly poured ingot mold is a little bit hot, but again, if you don't stand there holding it to admire your work, its manageable.

Trapshooter

[Dale53]

I have used ong cuffed "welders gloves" of leather for a long time. They are also sold as "Fireplace gloves". They are quite soft and malleable. I find them really comfortable to use. The cuffs are long and I pull them up over my LONG SLEEVED SHIRT.

i am a believer in "total coverage" regardless of the temperature. My casting outfit is a long sleeved 100% cotton flannel shirt, 100% cotton bib overalls, leather boots with the overall legs overtop and finally a long shop apron over the top. This gives me at least two layers over my lap (I cast sitting down). Sprues often drop into my lap but there is NO concern as the two layers of 100% cotton clothing protects me from the heat. Be sure and use good eye protection (I don't care how "careful" you are, sooner or later you WILL have molten lead flying around your head). A good hat and glasses go a long way to help you out in an accident.

I consider this just common sense. I raced motorcycles for ten years and I used a helmet. I drive briskly in my autos and I ALWAYS use a seat belt. When I rappelled off 165 foot cliffs, I regularly checked my equipment. When I pick a weapon up, it is pointed downrange - ALWAYS. I guess you get the idea:mrgreen:

I have spent a lifetime indulging in what some would consider "risky behavior" and I am now an old man, with all of my faculties and body parts and I like it that way.

Dale53

[wiljen]

My gloves say Lincoln Electric on them. I found em in the welding section for about $10 at Home depot I think.

[Springfield]

Go to Orchard Supply Hardware and buy some Ove' Gloves. They are a combo of Kevlar and Nomex. Or you can type in ove glove on the internet and lots of sellers come up. I have been using them for 2 years now. They are so good you can pick up a freshly cast ingot as long as you don't hold onto it too long. About 15.00 each and they hold up well. Fit either hand. And washable. And teh new ones even have rubber on the outside for a better grip, and it seems to be very heat resistant.

[30yrcaster]

I tried to look up the Kevlar gloves on Enco's web site, but it was down. I know Kevlar gives quite a bit of protection from sharp edges, but I don't know what its heat conducting or abrasion resistance properties are. I would think the 900F rating is more than necessary for casting use, but more is usually better.


Here's their catalog page that mentions burn resistance of 900 degree:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=791&PMITEM=505-4134

Here's the item but it doesn't mention the 900 degrees:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-4134&PMPXNO=943681&PARTPG=INLMK3

[Trapshooter]

Thanks for the link '30, I looked up Enco again later, and was able to see the gloves in question. Like Dale, I use gloves with long cuffs, and wear multiple layers of cotton clothing. I used to cast sitting down when I first started, but one day while casting away, I got to thinking "what if my Lee Drip-o-matic cut loose with most of the 10 pounds into my lap?" I have done my casting standing up ever since. Everyone has a little different set up, and what works for one case might not work for another. The most important safety equipment is between the ears!

[felix]

..........Everyone has a little different set up, and what works for one case might not work for another............

True indeed. If the pot has a reputation of dripping, it goes into the trash, because sooner or later it will happen again when I least expect it. The all steel ones like SAECO, RCBS, are the ones I have used from the start in the early 70's. I tried the Lyman 20 pounder once, and trashed it within a couple of casting sessions. Too dangerous for my naked techniques a la' jockstrap style. ... felix

[Gussy]

Just picked up a pair of welding gloves at the Cennex farm supply for $8.00. They are lined and worked well a couple of days back when I was welding. I was holding fresh welded iron and only my stupidity caused any concern. I rubbed some anti splatter grease on a jig with one finger. Next time I picked up a part (with that finger) it got damned hot quick!!!
Gus

[alamogunr]

i am a believer in "total coverage" regardless of the temperature. My casting outfit is a long sleeved 100% cotton flannel shirt, 100% cotton bib overalls, leather boots with the overall legs overtop and finally a long shop apron over the top. This gives me at least two layers over my lap (I cast sitting down).
Dale53

I did the same, except for the shop apron, until during a conversation with a welder that was making a smelting pot for me advised me to wear a denim shirt. He said that weld spatter bounced off the denim but just stuck to the flannel and smoldered. I haven't had it tested yet but did take the advice. His welding was top notch so I figured his advice was also.
John

[MT Gianni]

If you starch the denim sparks just run off. I have never cast in flannel but hard edge not soft cotton nap works well. Gianni

[montana_charlie]

A freshly poured ingot mold is a little bit hot, but again, if you don't stand there holding it to admire your work, its manageable.

Speaking of which...!

I like movies and other entertainment which is touted to be 'real as life'. And, I watch fairly carefully to see if I can notice inconsistencies.

One of the shows that falls into this category is CSI, and it's two spin-offs CSI Miami and CSI New York. I find them enjoyable to watch, and only occasionally find something to carp about.

So, a few nights ago I'm watching an episode of CSI Miami. Some guy got killed by a shotgun blast, and his wounds were filled with lead pellets.
The CSI crew discussed the 'illegality' and 'rarity' of lead shot(?)...and eventually Cally (their firearms expert) was in the lab to test some casting materials that were found on the premises of their prime suspect.

She had his Lee (I think) electric melting pot, his 'buckshot' mould, and some of his lead.

She gets the melt going good, and pours the mould full with only 'two dips' with one of those little Lee dippers. (Yep, it took two to fill the mould, and she left almost no sprue, at all)

Then there is a shot of Cally tapping on the sprue plate with a good sized mallet, but she taps very gently till the plate swings over.

Now, here's the good part...

Cally opens the mould, peers at the 'pellet', then picks it out of the cavity with her fingers...and holds it up (between thumb and forefinger) to examine it carefully.
She smiles as she realizes the surface marks match those on the 'killer pellets'.

Oh, she was wearing gloves! She ALWAYS wears gloves.
Little snug-fitting Latex ones.

I gotta try some of those...
CM

[30yrcaster]

So back to the original question. Looks like not many people here use Kevlar gloves for casting. Didn't seem to get any responses on how they work.

[OLPDon]

Retired Firefighter here and have gloves used for the Job. However I use Leather work gloves. The Kevlar & Nomex Gloves or too bulky when casting Boolits but use the Nomex at times when smelting.
Don

[Nueces]

Fellas,

I've used military issue flying gloves for many years. Soft gray leather palms and green Nomex backs, wrist-length cuffs. Great touch sensitivity. I can open sprue plates by hand and pick up hot bullets.

'Nother idea.

Mark

[Sundogg1911]

I had 2 pairs of really heavy gloves from a friend that worked at Alcoa. I used to use them for starting camp fires. I'd just grab a burning log from a neighbors fire while wearing the gloves and toss it in mine. Unfortunatly I've worn them out doing stupid things like I just mentioned, and He has since retired. :-( I'd love to find another pair or two. If I just use them for casting they would have lasted a life time. (But then again, I didn't think He'd retire at 55 either) [smilie=1:

[Mohillbilly]

kevlar is for cut protection,nomex is fire resistance,welders,and brazers gloves for sparks and hot metal/slag.I use brazers gloves for casting because the are less awkwark(smaller cuffs,better dexterity)than welders, which I use when smelt'n.......Hard finish, fire retardent cotton welders(green like hospital scrubs) jacket, or if sit'n, an apron of denem or a leather shop/welders apron... glasses,hat,leather work boots. Works well for me. NO! synthetics they melt and stick....nothing damp or wet as if you git a hold of something hot, steam burns quick ,and water transfers heat real fast too.No kids-r- dogs allowed,and some kinda fire protection (garden hose,ect.)

[shotstring]

I thought it was someone from here that recommended welding gloves from Harbor Freight. I just ordered 6 pairs today for the total price of $19.98 + shipping. $9.95 for 3 pairs of long coverage lined leather (looked to be leather) seemed to be a good price.