Do all 30/30 boolit

[lastborn]

I am wanting to find a do-all boolit for my five 30/30's-- all 336's microgroove. I have the Lyman 31141 and to be honest, I haven't had much luck with it. It may be me or my alloy, but it's not the magic boolit for me that is is with so many on this board.I was looking at the Accurate Mold catalog at the 31-170C and a 31-170F. I am no boolit designer and wanted to get input from all here and any recommendations you many have. I want it to be a deer hunting boolit foremost, and also to use in the 700 to 1K or so vel. for a fun load. Accuracy is foremost. Don't want to start a mold maker war. Pm me if you don't want to put it on here.
thanks

[newton]

I bought two for my gun thinking that I would use them for individual purposes. A light and a heavy. But I found I use the heavy for both and it's great. It's a cheap, pain in the rear, lee mold. 170 grain flat point. It has served me well though.

I push it from 1900+fps with gas check, and 1250 fps without. I think the 30-30 likes the heavier boolit, at least mine does. I will eventually get another mold, in the same weight range, from another mold maker because I like it in the 30-30 that much.

[dualsport]

Ranch Dog designs were made for Marlins. Now he's closed up shop. I think NOE is making clones, or somebody is anyway. I think I saw a group buy brewing. Maybe Lee will offer RD designs? They made the originals.

[Hyphenated]

I've had good luck with Lee molds in 150gr FN, 170gr FN and the 180gr RN. I have used all these boolits in .30-30 Marlins and Winnie's. Have also used the 180gr in .308win and .30-06. If I were to choose just one I would stick with the 170gr FN to do it all. I size them at .310 and push them at 3/4 speeds with 2400 or RL-7.

[jhalcott]

Lastborn, it is HARD to get one bullet to work in ALL guns. I have had trouble trying to get a single load for 3 different 7TC/U Contenders and other guns of like caliber! I have used the 311041 in several 30 caliber guns with good to great results. YOUR problem MAY be lube or powder related. I've used some of Lees molds in 30 cal for sillywets, but all you need there is accuracy to hit the targets. I have used the 311291, 311466 ,311467 in the 30-30 for silly wets and deer. The guns I've used are all SINGLE shot, so be aware of the limits a tube fed gun has on bullet shape.

[GabbyM]

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=30&products_id=307

NOE has some copys of Ranch Dogs 165g FN with standard grease groves. No bore ride nose to fit to diameter so they will pretty much fit any rifle.

[colt1960]

I got in on the NOE 165 grain flat nose with standard lube groves group buy. Havent had a chance to use it yet but it i a very nice looking 5 cavity mold.

[Larry Gibson]

It may be me or my alloy,

If the 311041 hasn't done well in 5 different 336s then I'd look at what I quoted before I'd start chasing a "magic" mould.........

What alloy?
What GC's?
What sizing?
What lube"
What load?
What velocity?

Do the 336s shoot better with anything else?

Larry Gibson

[lastborn]

What alloy? several> air cooled COWW + 1% tin.13.4 to 14.3 bhn< oven / water quenched 20 to 22 bhn also have used a 50-50 alloy of > 95-2.5-2.5 / pb @ 10.8 to 11.5 bhn

What GC's? Gator checks / annealed

What sizing? the 311041 drops at .3105-- Tried it as dropped and also @ .310 -- the lee 170 and 150 shoot better @ .311 as does the 115 soupcan

What lube"speed green

What load? too many! Probably my best load so far has been the lee 150 or lee 170 over 30 to 33.3 gr. RL-15 + 1/2 dacron -- some days I can get 2" or smaller groups @ 100 yds. This load has produced 1.5" groups and I was good with that, but lately these groups have opened up on me and I can't figure out why? Haven't changed anything.I am starting to think it may be the lube / outside temperature effecting my groups. When it's 25 to 40 or so degrees I get 3 or 4 inch groups if I wait a timed 5 minutes between shots. If I shoot that same load, the first one or two shots will be 3-4 inches apart ant the next 3 shots { back to back} will group 2 inches or a little less up to a point, say 7or 8 shots and then start vertical stringing. On warm days, say 65 degrees and up 1st shot may be high left and then group 2" or less, then start vertical stringing.

What velocity? don't have a chrony
Do the 336s shoot better with anything else? see above lee 150 and 170

[MT Chambers]

I prolly have about 30 molds for the .30 cals. and 311041 is one of the most accurate bullets in more of my rifles, including the 30/30, .308, .30/06, .300 whisper, .30 BR......just a very accurate cast bullet done up 310 and Carnauba red lube.

[Larry Gibson]

If all else is well then indications are the lube is the problem.. I suggest using COWWs + 2% tin. Let the bullets AC 7-10 days before sizing, lubing and seating the GCs. Cast with the alloy at 725 (are you using a bottom pour or a dipper?). The 311041s should come out at least .311. Size at that. Switch to a softer lube (especially for the cold weather of 25 - 40 degrees) such as a NRA 50/50 or 2500+.

Start at 24 gr RL7 or H4895 and work up to 28 gr of each.

Larry Gibson

[dubber123]

You are sizing the LEE boolits a bit bigger, that could be all the difference. My Savage 219 likes .312" diameter. If your 311041 isn't doing much for you, I'd try my hand at lapping it out, you have nothing to lose, it's not working now, and it might make it MUCH more useable. Getting it to drop a .312" boolit should be pretty easy, and I would try some at that size. Good luck.

[lastborn]

dipper

[Larry Gibson]

With the alloy at 725 swirl the dipper down through the alloy to get fresh and hot alloy in it. Hole the mould horizontal over the pot and quickly place the dipper spout (if Lyman, RCBS or Rowel) or pour lip (if Lee) into the sprue hole and turn the mould and dipper vertical. You would be surprised at how quickly the alloy will cool so getting it into the cavity fast is a must. Allow the alloy to pour over the sprue plate forming a large sprue and even running off the side back into the pot. This method gets the alloy in the cavity as fast as possible and provides a bit of "pressure" during the pour. Using that method will alow for maximum fillout. Give that a try.

Larry Gibson

[truckjohn]

Personally
If you are not having luck with the die you have...

Before you go buy any *MORE* dies...

Buy some bullets from a couple of the small commercial bullet casters out there....
You can get all sorts of bullet designs like the LFN, WFN, the whole Lyman family, RCBS, SAECO, Ballisticast, NEI, etc.... and all you are out is the cost of a box of bullets....

If you ask nice/beg/plead/bribe - some of the smaller One-man bullet casters will put together a "Variety pack" of 10 or 15 of each in several designs for you to try out....

This way - if it doesn't work out - you don't have to figure out what to do with the dies you didn't like...

Thanks

[TXGunNut]

I'd suggest focusing on one rifle of known ability, that removes quite a few variables. Stringing and impact shifts make me look to pressure on the barrel like a mag tube or forend. Don't forget to carefully inspect the crown as well. Just traded off a 336 that was driving me nuts and a slightly uneven crown was the only thing I could put my finger on.
Back to the mould question I'm thinking you already have the most verstile mould, I just scored the NOE version in a recent GB. I'm a big fan of the RDO design but I think it is happier around 2000-2200fps than it is @ 1200fps. Can't explain why it seems to like to go fast but it's a hunting boolit for me so I'm OK with that. Lee is offering selected RDO moulds on a special order basis and may include them in the 2014 catalog if they feel there is sufficient interest.

[1Shirt]

Years ago, I would have said Lyman 311291, but today I would go with the 150 lee GC. Great blt!
1Shirt!

[jimb16]

I still say 311291.....Love that boolit!