Faster way of seating cores ?

[RP]

Well I have some dies to make 224 bullets out of 22 rimfire brass and really slow part is placing cores in the brass. I have see one fellow post a pic of a series of plastic drilled to hold the brass and shakes the cores into them. Not sure if hes hand placing the brass in then shaking the cores in. We all the people that are coming up with great ideals I am sure someone has come up with a good way of getting the cores in the brass. Out of all the steps of making bullets this for me is the worst part of the process. So lets share some ideals or pics.

[nhrifle]

Got any kids??? :mrgreen:

[BT Sniper]

Yes it has been done and you are absolutly correct in the time it takes to simply put the lead core in the jackets.

I have seen the product you are looking for. It does exactly what one wishes, pore jackets and they magicaly fall into little slots like the ammo trays, then dump a bunch of cores on top and they magicaly fall into the jackets. You are left with 100-200 jacketts with cores inside all lined up and ready to grab and seat the core.

You can see a pic of these trays in this link, matter of fact if one wants to know how to make match grade bullets and what it takes, this guy does it!

http://www.precisionballisticsllc.com/How_I_Build_My_Bulle.html


The magical trays you seek are not cheap though. The last ones I saw offered way back when where over $200!!! might have been closer to $300. Wait.... found the old thread... back in 07 the ones I saw where $375!! held 200 jackets.

I have been thinking for more then a year now to have some of these handy tools made. I still am looking into it!

BT

[BT Sniper]

Kids :) Yep that is the second option. A lot more expenive though :)

[supe47]

While awaiting the remainder of my dies from BT I've had time to ponder this situation. I too was inspired by the site in BT's reply and I came up with these. First, the jacket/core production aid beta model. I used two pieces of 1/2" plywood, drilled a few holes in them and countersunk the top piece just enough to allow the heavy end of the jacket to fall in. It's a balance thing you have to play with, open end will slide across but the closed end will fall in. A handful of derimmed brass into box, shake until all holes are full, remove excess. Cores, the same thing. Remove upper piece of plywood and VIOLA,105 jackets and core united, standing at attention and just begging to be seated.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63162&d=1362470812 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63163&d=1362470834

This worked so well I next tackled the dilemma of case stamp separation. This time I used 3 pieces of 1/2" plywood. The bottom 2 allow the case to fall in rim down. I place the third piece on top first two and flip it over, remove top 2 pieces and low and behold, there stands 225 cases head stamp up waiting for sorting.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63165&d=1362470873http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63166&d=1362470908http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63164&d=1362470856
Both work great. It did take a lot of experimentation with drill sizes and an extreme amount of drill press handle pulling to achieve these homely production aids but the effort was worthwhile. First test of the case sorting block tonight, 3000 cases sorted in a couple hours while watching TV. The jacket/core uniter was pretty straight forward but the case separator block was a bit trickier. HINT: a 45 degree countersink is not extreme enough, angle needs to be steeper. I used a stepped hole to increase angle. The key to the whole thing was making the holes just wide enough and the angle steep enough to allow the heavy end to tip in but the open end to bridge the hole. Have fun.
Supe
PS Total cost.....a couple of bucks for both production aids. But there was a bunch of head scratchin' and handle pulling.

[BT Sniper]

YEP! Thats perfect! A lot of pulling on a handel of a drill press but should be worth it.

Any pics with the cases and cores in it?

Nice work!

BT

[clodhopper]

What species of wood did you use? Just sitting her thinking maple or birch. Then again plexiglass looks good too.

[dbosman]

For this type of wood working, something like ApplePly works great! Thin veneers with no voids. Some lumber suppliers stock it for cabinet and furniture makers. Others will order it at about double what you'd pay elsewhere.
Normally it comes in 60" x 60" sheets.

This site sells smaller sizes.
http://www.buyappleply.com/

[GerryM]

BY the time you place all of the jackets in the loading block , then the lead cores in the other loading block
you will have spent a bit of time. Then when your done you have a loading block full of hulls ready to go.
The real stumbling block is how close they are to each other.
I hope you have small hands to get them out.
Ive seen these sets go for quite a bit of money.
I guess it just depends on how fast you want to make bullets
Sorry to be negative but I tried it and it works butt...... not as well as one might think.

[Lizard333]

I get my wife to do it. My six year old is being groomed for the job. It defiantly sucks.

[supe47]

Still laughing. No kids and a landlady that says " is no my yob". Blocks were a must for me. Tiny bullets, big old knarlie fingers and arthritis dictated the production aids. While a pretty piece of wood is desirable, I went for CHEAP. When making prototypes material loss is expected. If I had a CNC I'd make the next one out of plexiglass. Seeins I don't, these cheap plywood models are going to have to do. I'm sure there is someone out there with machinery more advanced than a drill press that will make blocks prettier and more precise than these. I made these just to see if I could.
Brian, I'll post some pics (smaller) later on today. "When you stop learning you are dying." Agreed!
Supe

[RP]

Man I got to say that is some fine drill press work. I have tried making my own loading blocks out of wood and have to say somewhere down the line I get a hole off center. I would think the guys making molds or something like that could punch out some trays at a price that would not break the bank. I really like the tapper part I can see how that would help out a lot. I know the holes do not have to be perfect but my OCD on that kind of thing always kicks in. Thanks for sharing and as far as kids I am working on my grandkids now but she gets tired fast 4 year old and its not fun lol.

[supe47]

Opps, sorry Brian. All my experimental cores (swaged to 45 grains) have unfortunately been recycled back into melting pot so pics of jackets with cores inserted are not available at this time. I made the 45 grain cores to get the "fall into the hole" balance point just right. I haven't tried the block with heavier cores so it may not work as well as with the 45 grainers. The block has holes drilled 1/2" center to center and it's not hard to grab the jacket/core even with my fumbly fingers.
GerryM- Agreed, placing jackets one at a time into block and doing the same with core would be time prohibitive not to mention a pain in the posterior, ergo the funnel on the top. The block sits snugly in a box to keep the cups and cores from spilling off the side as I shake and jiggle until most of the holes are filled. I do hand seat the few remaining holes the shaking did not fill. Jackets first until all holes are full, cores next, remove top piece of plywood that has the funnel part and they end up like this, only with cores inside and ready to swage. Sorry I didn't have cores to show in this pic. "Sorry to be negative but I tried it and it works butt...... not as well as one might think." Mine works for me. YRMV
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63231&d=1362520709
Supe

[Lizard333]

I use the plastic case that my CCI 22LR bullets came in. I don't fill every hole because I have fat fingers. I put a spacer under top plate to get the jackets up higher.

[BT Sniper]

They sure look good all lined up there supe! Keeps them clean if anything! Someday I'll attempt one or contact someone with a CNC mill.

BT

[supe47]

A CNC mill is the way to go. Trying to keep all them holes lined up is a PITA. The only reason I had to drill the holes so many times is I didn't want to make 'em to big and ruin the whole project. I started small and increased the size of the holes 1/64th at a time. If I do it again I know what size to start with. Drill holes once and chamfer, done. Brian, I know you understand what trial and error is. At least my working media was cheap plywood, not costly steel. And, my mistakes can be ground up and used as flux for the casting pot.

[coleman]

Supe, Great job on drilling the holes.
Coleman

[supe47]

Holes be holes. Doesn't matter if they're not aesthetically pleasing as long as upper plate holes line up with lower plate holes. Locater pins and holes positioned first solved that problem. I knew them bamboo skewers would come in handy someday. KISS and field expediency solves a lot of problems.

[alfloyd]

supe47:
What size did you drill the holes, if I try to make one for myself?

Thanks
Lafaun

[Utah Shooter]

^^^^^^ Who is this guy up here? :) Nice to see you are still at least making it to the cpu once in a while ALF.

I have seen these blocks before. I thought that someone already manufacturers some nice plastic ones.

I know.... I know..... Don't shoot me just because they are not home made.

Here is a design for some that I can find.

http://bryantcustom.com/images/Carraway1.jpg

http://bryantcustom.com/images/Carraway2.jpg

[supe47]

7/32nds inch drill used but you might take it up to 15/64ths. The dia. of the chamfer is app. .0420". I determined that by slowly pushing a derimmed piece of brass closed end first over the edge until tipped in. Derimmed brass being a bit over 0.710" the heavy end will fall in but the open end will bridge the chamfered hole. I noticed when I first tested, the brass would tip in but hang up on the edge of the 45 degree chamfered hole. In an attempt to increase the angle of the chamfer I used a 19/64ths drilled 0.2" deep so it's kind of a stepped hole from the top. All that **** could be eliminated if you have a countersink with more than a 45 degree angle. I would suggest the hole be 1" deep so maybe use a 1/2" piece on the bottom and 3/4" on the top. It was all trial and error, that's why i had to pull the handle so many times. You know us backyard tinkerers, "well the 13/64ths works but maybe if'n I drilled 'em out to 7/32nds it'd work better". Add another 105 pulls of the handle to the count. Before I make another one I'm going to find a sheet of whatever with holes perforated into it to use as a hole guide. The heck with drawing all them lines. Hope this rather obscure explanation helps. The project was just an effort to kill an afternoon whilst I await my last two dies from BT SNIPER (hint, hint Brian).

Lafaun- Your lead wire die works great. It's a snap on my WH press.

Supe

[supe47]

Utah shooter- Yup, that was one of my inspirations. The other one was the premade plastic bullet holders for sale. The price was the inspiration for making it myself out of plywood. Congrats on the postal shoot. I hope to compete in the next one with my own swaged bullets. (another hint, hint Brian. I'll stop now)

[Utah Shooter]

And they do look nice Sir. Better than I can dream of doing.

No you wont stop the hints Supe!!! :twisted:

Neither would I though.

[BT Sniper]

Utah,

Thanks for posting the link. $250 back in 94. They will sure come in handy if we could have some made.

Since there seems to be some pretty good intrest in the subject now I might as well post a link myself.

Here you go! Check out the pics! http://www.saubier.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2421

[supe47]

Be still this heart of mine....

[BT Sniper]

Utah,

found your post on BRCentral. Funny, like minds search the net alike :) Lots of good info out their on "bullet boards"

I know a member here with a CNC mill and looking for business! I may have to contact him!

BT

[aaronraad]

I'm keen to try using one of these, I'm sure I could make it work, especially for the price:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/capsule-filling-machine-100-cavity-manual-capsule-filler-with-tamping-tool-can-be-customized-for-00/443659430.html

[BT Sniper]

I'm keen to try using one of these, I'm sure I could make it work, especially for the price:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/capsule-filling-machine-100-cavity-manual-capsule-filler-with-tamping-tool-can-be-customized-for-00/443659430.html

HOLY SHEEP! maybe?????

[BT Sniper]

you guys have no idea how long I have been looking for somthing like that. I guess our founding fathers of swage where heavy pill takers :)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capsule_(pharmacy)

This link will give you the size of the capsules in mm! It might work????!!!!

[Lizard333]

I'm keen to try using one of these, I'm sure I could make it work, especially for the price:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/capsule-filling-machine-100-cavity-manual-capsule-filler-with-tamping-tool-can-be-customized-for-00/443659430.html

That is cheap! If some one gets one, PLEASE let us know what size works. My wife would greatly appreciate it!

[alfloyd]

By looking at the capsule size chart, it looks like a #2, or #3, set will work.
#2 = .250 inch.
#3 = .229 inch.
I think that I may order one to play with.

Lafaun

[R.Ph. 380]

I just ordered one of the Aliexpress looks just like what we use in the pharmacy, but about 10 times less expensive.

Bill

[Utah Shooter]

Utah,

Thanks for posting the link. $250 back in 94. They will sure come in handy if we could have some made.

Since there seems to be some pretty good intrest in the subject now I might as well post a link myself.

Here you go! Check out the pics! http://www.saubier.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2421

Well I was mainly posting for the dimensions that are within. I think the price of that is way overpriced.


Utah,

found your post on BRCentral. Funny, like minds search the net alike :) Lots of good info out their on "bullet boards"
BT

Yup that is a fantastic site. If anyone wants a really good read by some guys who really know their stuff do some digging over there.

That pill separator sure looks great.

[deltaenterprizes]

A buddy of mine made Walter a set out of 1/2" plexiglass on a CNC mill at the local community college machine shop.
Walter was always trying to get me into benchrest shooting, he came close. He did get my machine shop teacher.
Walter had a shooting buddy named Raymond, I have a couple hundred of their "rejects", the first ones "before the dies warmed up" they told me, they will shoot better than I can!
My teacher built me a Rem 700 in 6PPC with a benchrest barrel. Only shot about 50 times, finally got a Weaver T-36 so I guess it is time to see what it can do.
Walter passed a few years back, Raymond is still around but does not shoot anymore .
Those were two good guys, they taught me a lot.

[aaronraad]

That is cheap! If some one gets one, PLEASE let us know what size works. My wife would greatly appreciate it!

Pass on my apologies to your wife :)

I spotted it about 12 months ago but figured some other cookie would have been all over it. Based on some of my dealings with that part of the world, some suppliers can be talked into producing alternative designs without doubling the price to each modification. Part of the trick is to make sure you're not from an industry that is going to make a huge profit from the equipment being purchased.

I think for those more mechically minded there are opportunities to modify a tablet press (http://www.aliexpress.com/category/100006951/tablet-press.html) for bullet swaging. I'm not against importing if the importer is adding value to the item, if I stated otherwise I'd hardly be honest given what I do to a J4 jacket. Manufcaturing in Australia is up the creek so I'm constantly forced to come up with alternatives. Still hoping to form a Bullet Swaging Guild to better assist local businesses with consistent, affordable supply of raw materials and tooling.

[RP]

Well I was able to get one of Supe47 proto types made out of plastic lucky me. I was told not to expect much it was not working as well as he wanted and craftsmanship was not that great then I got mail. I could not find anything terrible about it. Made of some thick plastic drilled line up pins walls eight screws he supplied I was off and running. Tossed in some brass shoot it up they dropped in well took some cores drop them in and that went fine. Picked up the top and the sides there they sat ready to be run in the press. Another thing I am not found of is picking them up and turning them to point form so I dumped in some seated cores\jackets shook it up and there you go everyone sitting up read to go. I love it works great and speeded up my production rate by no less then three times as fast. He should make them to sell guys hit him with a pm maybe you can get one. I tried to post a video of it but since I lowered my internet speed its not letting me upload them now.

[supe47]

RP- Thank you for the kind words. And also, thank you for being my test subject. I'm almost completed with Model #3, no assembly required and a 160 hole model. I'll try and post some pics for ya'all tomorrow.
Supe

[Roger Ronas]

<tapping fingers on table> waiting for pics. LOL

Roger



RP- Thank you for the kind words. And also, thank you for being my test subject. I'm almost completed with Model #3, no assembly required and a 160 hole model. I'll try and post some pics for ya'all tomorrow.
Supe

[supe47]

Roger- Personally, I'm a thumb twiddler. Sorry for the delay, life rears it's ugly head once and a whenever. This is my "Model #3 Beta version". I'm 'sperimentin' with pieces of scrap thrown in the cutoff bin so the materials I'm using, so far, are not my first pick. Shown are an odd mixture of PVC, Plexiglas and some weird soft stuff that is not bonder friendly. Any future models I make will be made of PVCX, a lighter PVC. That stuff is great. Easily worked, bonds well and about 1/2 the weight of PVC.

Both top and bottom pieces are 1/2" but going to try a 5/8" top and 3/8" bottom plate for more exposed case and longer funnel. The cases are 1/2" C/C but the rows are .800" apart for easy pickins. This one is a 160 holer, not like the puny 96'er I sent RP for testing. So far the fence is only 1 1/2" high butt may raise it another 1/2" to aid dumping out the excess jackets and cores. It goes like this. Dump in 100 or so jackets and shake, wiggle and tilt until most are seated. Add more jackets and repeat. Once all hole are occupied dump out excess jackets through the small gate you had your grubby mud hook over while doing the shaky, wiggle thing. You might have a few jacket bottom side up. No worries. remove top plate and turn 'em over. Almost all jackets will fall open end up. Replace upper plate. Do the same with cores. DISCLAIMER- The cores, as of this model, do not fall in as easy as the jackets so a bit of fingering or swishing around with your hand may be necessary. The cores like to hang up on the edge of the jacket and some don't readily fall into the jacket with the normal shake method. I believe that issue will be resolved with the 5/8" top plate. Or maybe I'll make a "core only" top plate. This is still a work in progress and not totally perfected. Anyway, here it is.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64643&d=1363744819 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64642&d=1363744819 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64640&d=1363744819http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64641&d=1363744819
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64639&d=1363744819

I'm trying to make a video and will post a link when it's uploaded to photo bucket. Improvements made as material is chucked at San Diego Plastics. When you're experimenting ya gotta keep it on the cheap. But it has given me the excuse to buy a drill press and table saw. Again, sorry for the delay.
Supe

[clodhopper]

I'm saving my pennies..........perhaps I will have enough when you start making them.

[supe47]

I finally got around to making a video. I solved the problem of cores hanging up on the edge of the jacket. I swaged some cores for the video. They are 45 grains and fell fine. Like I said in my previous post, this is my test model and thrown together with a variety of plastics. All trays in the future will be made of black PVCX and the fence will be taller. I sent test model #2 to RP for a working test. His model was a 96 holer and did not have the few minor adjustments model #3 has. I'm still waiting for my core seating die from Brian so I can't even put my tray to work......yet. Whadda ya think?
Supe

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/sup66704bycox/media/SWAGEBLOCKVIDEO2_zps10a8e1e1.mp4.html

[Racenviper]

Very nice, I would like one once I get my dies from BT.

[clodhopper]

Very good, are you taking pre-orders to finance material purchase?
How long before they come in .243 and .30?

[supe47]

Clodhopper- No pre-order necessary, I've been using scrap bin pieces for experimentation and expected a few total loses. I'm also new to plastics (why did "The Graduate" just jump into my mind) and I'm experiencing the learning curve. Being new to the game, I grabbed whatever looked thick enough to work with. I learned, the hard way, some of the strengths and weaknesses of various plastic products. I settled on PVCX for the ease of use and light weight. As far as blocks for .243 and .30, I could make them but I would need jackets and cores to make a working model. I started this project as a personal challenge to keep my thumbs from twiddlin' whilst waiting for my 22 cal dies from Brian. I still have to do a cost evaluation to see what I'd have to charge to keep from working my way to the poor house. Right now I'm making 'em one-off but if you guys are interested I'll make some production aids to standardize the product.
Supe

[Lizard333]

Put me on the list as interested in one of your set ups for the 224 cores. Make sure to charge enough for your time and make it worth it.

[clodhopper]

I think you can sell them. While some people will say it's just pecies of plastic. Others will be focusing on what those pieces of plastic do.
Your time is valuable, one of your tools would save lots of my time.
I do not have any .243 cores yet but hope to have some soon.
I have not ordered .22 dies yet, but recognize the benifits of your jacket-core allingment tool.

[supe47]

Bottom line? I'm fumble fingered and can't see to put the cores in one at a time. I'm going to make some whether they sell on not. I'll start making the production aids Monday.

Clodhopper- What size are your jackets? These holes are 15/64" (.234") and it shouldn't be much of a jump for your .243 . Jacket length might be a problem. A taller bottom plate would solve that problem. A 30 cal set-up would most likely require different hole spacing and block thickness.

Supe

[Racenviper]

I would be interested in one set and one extra lower tray. I don't have my dies yet, so I will not be much help in testing, but I'm interested in supporting you.

[Roger Ronas]

Looks good. Will be ordering one when available.
Roger

[RP]

Guys if you are doing 224s I don't see how you can do them without a way to easily get the cores in the jackets. And yes kids and wife will work but do you really want to go that route lol. I have tested one of his prototypes and love it. I wish I could upload my videos so I could add it to my others on a tread that I been working on about swaging bullets. Thanks for stepping up to the plate with your ideals and product Supe 47

[Utah Shooter]

Supe.... How much are you going to charge for these? Oh and I am also curious about the depth? Are they going to be usable with jackets from .600-1.125? I would guess the only change would be the depth of the top plate!

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

I don't have my dies yet from BT But I would like one for .224. I would also like one extra lower tray. Just let us know when they go up for sale. Thanks and great job on your prototype!!

[clodhopper]

My earlier post should have read "don't have any jackets yet" I'm waiting on some tools ordered some months ago to make jackets. The jackets should be under .243 in size but, probably not small enough to fall into a .243 dia hole like your .22 jackets do.

[supe47]

Utah shooter- I was contemplating that earlier tonight. Derimmed LR measure out at .700"+. I believe the .600" jacket would fall properly. You would, of course, loose 1/10" of grab area with the current bottom plate. LR jacket have a wee bit more than 1/4" exposed. A .600" jacket would have about 5/32 exposed. I think you could still grab 'em. As far as the 1.125" jacket, I can make a 10 or 11mm "middle plate" to allow for a longer jacket.Sorry for the "mm's", I was told plastics usually are measured in millimeters and they just round off for us inch people. The problem with the longer jacket is the "funnel" opening size. It's a semi-critical size, to small and the jackets won't tip in, to large and they drop in all willie nillie and wrong end up. The diameter has to be just wide enough for the heavy (closed) end to tip in but small enough for the light (open) end to pass over. I don't believe the longer jacket would index as well as the standard derimmed LR jacket. Perhaps a factory produced longer jacket with a flat base would work. Don't know, don't have any to try. As far as price, I was thinking $75ish delivered. Extra lower plate $20. Lots of labor involved.
Has anyone received their pill trays yet? I'd be interested to hear how they worked out. I can't compete with China.
Supe

[ARKANSAS PACKRAT]

Supe47, $75ish? PM me where and when to send you the money, NO question I need this!
Thanks, Nick

[clodhopper]

If only half the jackets fell in mouth up, this tool could still save lots of time.
Throw jackets in, Shake untiil each hole is occupied, Dump excess.
Throw cores in,shake until every open mouth jacket has a core, dump excess.
Sawge the ready assemblies,
Dump out the upside down ones.
Repete
The proper sized hole/bevel is cream for a hand swager.
And critical for an automated set up.

[MIBULLETS]

supe, I'm very interested as well. Are you taking orders? Any idea on the cost yet? I saw you mentioned using a .600" jacket, would a .800" work as well? Thanks!

[supe47]

MIBULLETS- .800"? Not sure. In the near future I'll cut down some 22 Mag cases and give 'em a try with a "standard" top plate. There's a little bit of wiggle room between the funnels on the top plate so I might be able to increase the diameter a small amount. The problem with that is it might mess with the .700" falling closed end down most of the time. I'll look into it. I don't think an extra .010" will be a problem.

clodhopper- That's a good idea. I'm still messing with the first 3 of my random plastics test models. When I test them I seldom have more than a half a dozen wrong side up and this usually happens when initially dumping in the jackets. I made a custom countersink today, 80 degrees with a radius at the bottom rather than a sharp angle at entry hole. Works slicker than snot. Amazing what person can do with a drill press, grinding wheel and Dremel tool.

I'm going to devote Monday to procuring materials and making production aids so pieces will be interchangeable rather than one off. I thank you for the moral support. If I wasn't doing this I'd be at the range. Wait, is that a good thing?
Supe

[Racenviper]

If you extended the positioning dowels to a longer length, then added spacers to raise the top plate. Would help for longer length jackets

[supe47]

Yes, but you would still be dealing with the diameter of the funnel opening being to small. Remember the jackets and core have to tip in, hopefully open end up. Roughly speaking, the opening has to be about 60% of the jacket length. Opening for .715"ish jacket is around .450", a longer jacket would require a larger opening for the feed characteristics this device was designed to do. The reverse is also true, shorter jacket with a wider hole and you'll get more upside-down jackets. It's like driving a fuel dragster on regular gas.....it'll work but not up to it's full potential. This model was designed to work with derimmed 22 LR jackets that measure .705"-.730". Longer jacket may work but I've not tried them yet.
Supe

[coleman]

Supe47, great vid. One thing you might want to try it may work or not, take one of your older models and mount it to a vibratory case polisher and see if that will help seat the jackets and cores, it may be soft or to hard of vibration? good work!!! Coleman

[supe47]

Believe me, I thought of that but haven't tried it.

[supe47]

10 jacket/core uniters assembled. Fences get made tomorrow. Ready to ship Monday. If anybody is interested, PM me for specifics.
Supe

[ARKANSAS PACKRAT]

PM sent

[Lizard333]

If you do end up selling these I'm interested. I'd like to see how they work for others as well before pulling the trigger. Very cool design!

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

PM sent

[RP]

You can not have one Tony I say so

[supe47]

I believe I need to clear up an issue . This model was designed to be used with 22 LR cases or store bought jackets near the same LENGHT to work properly. Jacket LENGTH dictates the funnel size OPENING. A longer jacket (a cut down 22 MAG case) requires a wider funnel opening AND a taller top plate. With a wider funnel opening I'd have to space the holes farther apart and hole count would go down to 100 per 8"x8" plate. These blocks are CASE LENGTH SPECIFIC. You could use 22LR jackets in the longer jacket models but you would get a lot more jackets falling in upside-down. Not trying to put a kibash on the whole thing, just want you to know this one block will not work properly on ALL 22 cal. jacket lengths.
Supe

[MightyThor]

https://by1.storage.live.com/items/50E21C260FA6656B!352:Scaled1024/DSCF0006.JPG?psid=1&ck=0&ex=720

Made a simple one some time ago, still use it. Just had some leftover plexi from something else, can't remember what. I left the bottom open so I could dump out the bottom but found I did not need to do that cause I just pull straight out of the jig when I seat the core. This is posted in my 22 cal sticky

[bullet maker 57]

PM sent.

[30yrcaster]

The trays in the pictures from Precision Ballistics look very similar to the trays Thomas "Speedy" Gonzales at SG&Y Precision Rifles made for a short time in 2002. He offered them in a post on Benchrest Central. He was a top notch benchrest shooter and once in a while would make carbide bullet dies. He offered to make me a set once and I passed it up and regretted it ever since. Precision Shooting Mag did an article about him shortly before he sold his business and became a teacher at a college.

I have a set of his blocks and they cost $390 shipped at the time. It came with 5 trays that held 200 jackets each. It also had 2 trays with the beveled holes, one for dumping in the jackets and the other for the cores. He told me it was very cnc machine labor intensive drilling 1400 holes and 600 bevels. Using 6mm .825 jackets, most make it into the trays upright. .224 you end up with several that are upside down.
66540

[RP]

Well I have tested his last model with improvements made. I thought the first one was just fine worked ok for me then I got the improved model. Well I dumped in some jackets and went to shaking then more shaking then more shaking thinking what going on here. Thinking it was just not filling the holes up to find out they were already full and two wont fit they just went in so fast with a lot less trouble. After finding that out I dumped in some cores they too went in very fast with not much shaking. All that being said the new model out performs the first test model I can tell you that just by shaking jackets and cores one time. Very well made and feel well worth the money you will regret not getting one if your swaging 22s. I have cut the speed of my internet to save money so unable to post any videos.

[ARKANSAS PACKRAT]

Supe,
The gadget came today in fine shape. I about wore some jackets and cores out tryin' it out, it's slick and fast! A few stray bullets got in, they went in the holes like gas thru a funnel, had to dump them out though, could not get a grip on them to pull them!
I have some thin Plexiglas, I'm going to cut a piece to block some holes to allow smaller batches, 100 would be good, I don't always need a full plate and I'd prefer not to let the plate set around partially full.
A great tool!
Nick

[supe47]

Just tape up the holes not used. I suggest " Scotch Painter Tape", it will not leave it's adhesive on the top plate if and when removed. (I masked for a long time and that stuff is great.) Avoid "duct tape".
I thank you for the compliment. Working on a 100 hole model for longer jackets. It should handle jacket lengths up to 1.2". Should be good for 22-30 cal.
Supe

[scarry scarney]

I recieved my "Supe Shaker" last night, cant wait to try it. Looks very professionally made. He was great to deal with, quick ship as well.

[RP]

Waiting to see what you guys that got the core shaker jig thought about them. I got to show mine off this weekend to a fellow and he to was very impress on how fast and easy it works. Well guys speak up.

[bullet maker 57]

I got my "shaker" on Saturday when I got home. Tried it out today. I am impressed. Works like a dream. Should save quite a bit of time. Thanks Supe.

Pete

[supe47]

You are more than welcome. I'm awaiting tooling for a 100 hole tray that will accommodate jackets and cores up to about 1.25" and will be able handle most any caliber with jackets up to that length. Fighting a cold. Weather is bad (for SoCal) so I'm not missing any trigger time.

Supe

[RP]

Well guys that have one how is it working for you I been waiting to see what you had to say.

[taminsong]

Supe,

I am interested, if you are willing to ship them to Philippines, please let me and will pay you via Paypal.

Thanks.

[taminsong]

Supe,

I am interested, if you are willing to ship them to Philippines, please let me and will pay you via Paypal.

Thanks.

[supe47]

Taminsong- PM sent

Supe

[USMCamp0811]

Was just curious how much these trays were, because I wouldn't mind getting one for when my dies get here....... Saw the price posted for that one made years ago for a short period of time with a $300ish price tag. For that price I could go buy my own drill press, a bunch of lucite, some drill bits, and make a couple myself and still come out ahead on the money side of things. I may just do this anyway to give me something to do while I wait... but thought I'd ask.

[supe47]

USMCamp0811- Complete set (one upper tray, one lower tray and fence) $75.00 shipped to the 50 states (USPS flat rate box). Extra upper $30, extra lower $20 if ordered when set is shipped. Post #41 has a link to an amateur video.
I also was taken aback when I saw the price of the CNC machined trays. If you read through this thread you'll find the drill size, post #21 I believe. I did make a radius chamfer tool out of a 1/2" bolt but you can buy radius chamfer center drills that will work. They are rather aggressive. I tried sheet PVC, acrylic and some weird stuff that was way to heavy and not bonder friendly. I settled on PVCX. It's light and machines easily and is bonder friendly. I used this project as an excuse to buy the tools I needed to make ONE SET FOR ME. Oh well. It'll be some time before I break even but sales weren't why I made the first one. If you have any questions how I make 'em, PM me and I'll answer any questions. Obviously I'm not in it for the money. Matter of fact it kept me from the range for a few weeks. Just killing time waiting for my dies. I've already purchased all kinds of do-dads and thing-a-ma-jigs to aid my swaging. Waiting is almost as expensive as the swaging stuff.
Supe

[Lizard333]

Pm inbound. I want a set.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

I purchased a setup from Supe47 and it looks great! Very well made. I haven't had a chance to try it out but when I do I will be sure to report back.

[taminsong]

Supe,

PM replied. Please hurry, the cost of ice cream to bribe the kids are getting expensive, much better to buy your trays, lol!

[Lizard333]

Got my trays yesterday afternoon. These are very well made. I was very impressed with the quality. After trying them out, I only had three go in wrong side up of of 160. Way cool. The spacing is enough so my sausage fingers are able to easily grab the jackets/cores.

Straight shooter for sure!

[RP]

Guys if you don't know this after you have your cores swaged you can use the trays to position them for point forming. Just drop in the swaged jackets and cores shake and they are all sitting ready to go into the point die no flipping and turning. Just another time saving feature. These trays take a lot of the time it takes to swage bullets away.

[customcutter]

When I get my cnc mill running (in a few weeks I hope), this will definetly be on my to do list. Need to check and see what prices are on some plastic?

thanks,
Ken

[supe47]

I use 1/2" PVCX, it's lighter than PVC, works easy and is bonder friendly. I use a custom made radius cutter for the "funnel" but radius center drills are available. The hardest part was finding a template for hole positioning. I just happened to find a surplus punch block with 0.234" that looked like it would work as a guide. A CNC mill would handle that problem. I make my trays with a table saw and a drill press, crude but workable. If you have any questions PM me and I'll tell what I've learned so far. Good luck.
Supe

[taminsong]

Guys, this tray really works! I just received mine and immediately tried it and it works so fast! time saving and efficient.

Thanks to Supe for this gadget.

You have to be very patient in drilling those holes to make one, so for me its worth the money!

[RP]

I agree taminsong I have tried to drill holes in a pattern it never fails I will get one off sooner then later. I thanks for posting how it worked for you wondering if I was impress easy lol. If you did not read one of my other post you can also run the seated cores in the tray for faster pick ups to point form saves the time of flipping them. This and my auto eject has speeded up my swaging greatly.

[RP]

well I tell you what this step is the most boring part of swaging for me I cant believe it has not got more hits. I guess if you have nothing else to do or just swage a few bullets a week your good. The way I look at it was going to be the breaking point of swaging any amount of bullets. Boys and girls I tell you there is more to life then stuffing cores in jackets get you a tray and then go out and see what in the world to shoot lol.

[Cane_man]

the time it takes to put a core in jacket is not really a big deal to me... i am not in a big hurry, it is all relaxing to me and i enjoy every part of it...

[supe47]

bump for reference.

[Racenviper]

Still have those trays?

[supe47]

A few of the last run still left. I used the trays as my "waiting for my dies" project. Idle Hands Are the Devil's Playground.

[ronaldod]

Would like to order one set. Just shipping will be to the netherlands.

[supe47]

ronaldod-PM sent.
Supe

[Racenviper]

Super, got the package today. Nice, and packed well. THANKS!

[ricklaut]

Like Supe, while waiting on the second half of my dies from BT, I've been doing a lot of tinkering. And, I've got another tool on the way - a 3D printer. I've spent some time coming up with things I'll use when swaging. One of the things I'm going to try is seeing whether I can print out one of these core shakers in ABS plastic based on the details Supe provided here (thank you!). It "should" work... what I'm not sure of is the countersink / chamfer. I'm going to try one this way first and see how the chamfer from my drawing translates when printed.

http://www.rnlvideo.com/reloading/3D_Swaging_Related/CS_Complete_Web.jpg

http://www.rnlvideo.com/reloading/3D_Swaging_Related/CS_bottom_and_top_Web.jpg

http://www.rnlvideo.com/reloading/3D_Swaging_Related/CS_top_chamfer_Web.jpg

[supe47]

ricklaut- Yup, looks good. I found the chamfer works best when it is a radius instead of straight sided. The sharps angle at the point of contact to the hole will keep the jackets from falling in easily. I found the upper width of the chamfer need to be about 60% of the jacket length ( .710" X .6 = .426" ) Longer jackets, wider at the top, deeper hole. Cores don't seem to care so much. Make sure your holes are deep enough to keep the top edge of the jackets below the chamfer to keep the cores from hanging up. Also, make sure your trays have some way to keep them lined up perfectly (alignment pins?). 3D printer, sounds like fun. Today, shaker trays....tomorrow, receivers? Just thinking out loud.
Supe

[ricklaut]

I specified a variable radius chamfer, but either the drawing isn't reflecting it or there's a bug in the software (I'm using Free CAD, so it could be a case of getting what I paid for). What I think I'll do is print the first one with different dimension chamfers to assess the printing resolution / software settings - that would also give a good opportunity to test how the differences shake out (literally!). I was thinking about alignment pins, but another thing I'll be testing is the clearance between the outside case & the two layers. In theory... they're clearanced tight enough to not need pins (but we'll see how that plays out....).

Hmm - I... (um) never thought (cough, cough) about - um - receivers. It would be cool to print one just to have a great conversation piece, but I can't see myself being willing to put it together and try it. Lots of other stuff to do first though... I've got a "bleed catcher" for the core swage die (using those nice holes Lee provided!), and after realizing that my sheet metal fabrication skills are horrible, I've got a catch tray drawn up. Then there's die holders & die plate holders. My list is long - hope I can make this thing work!

[supe47]

I use the alignment pins and a less tight fit of the fence for ease of tray removal. I tried different angles of the chamfer. The most extreme angle worked okay but the radius style chamfer worked best.....for me. Your attempts are definitely higher tech than my approach. My experimentation was pushing a jacket with a stick over a chamfered hole and watching how it fell and going from there. My trays, as of right now, are 1/2" upper and lower. My improved model may be 3/8" lower with a 5/8" upper. It'd expose a little more jacket for better grab action. Something you might consider. The holes in my Lee are just screaming to be used for something.
Supe

[ricklaut]

Ah - I wasn't thinking about removing the fence. I may have to tweak that a bit & build in a solution. I would imagine that with a tight fit, it won't want to come straight up & off.

[supe47]

Working from an unobstructed tray makes it a lot easier to get to them little buggers. Removing the fence makes access a heap easier. Ask me how I know.

[ricklaut]

The printer came today & the factory test print came out as expected. It's printing the top tray now; it's a slow process, but hopefully it will be done by morning (fingers crossed!).

[ricklaut]

The printer came today & the factory test print came out as expected. It's printing the top tray now; it's a slow process, but hopefully it will be done by morning (fingers crossed!).

Well, as with everything, there is a learning curve. The bad news is I cancelled the build 25% of the way in after realizing there was a problem. The problem relates to machine settings (build plate heat temp...) which was allowing the ABS on one corner to lift up & curl. The good news is that even though it wasn't successful, the 25% of it that is built is VERY promising. But that didn't include the chamfer... So, a little research is in order before I kick it off again.

In the mean time, I'm trying something else swaging related. It's smaller & shouldn't suffer from the same problem :).

[Sitzme]

Well, as with everything, there is a learning curve. The bad news is I cancelled the build 25% of the way in after realizing there was a problem. The problem relates to machine settings (build plate heat temp...) which was allowing the ABS on one corner to lift up & curl. :).

You will probably find that long parts warp more. There are a couple ways around it with one being to design slots into long sections to allow some stress relief. In this case I recommend that you change the design to be several pieces. It is easy to glue parts together to get a large assembly. I do it on a regular basis. For a 100 hole fixture you could do (4) each with 25 holes. Think about the grain when designing.

ps, when you have it working will you send me a copy of the file? :bigsmyl2:

[ricklaut]

Great advice... I'd been problem solving by looking at the machine and finding ways to keep the temp up on the build plate, but hadn't considered what I might do differently in design. I did think about the 4 pieces, but haven't had a chance to draw it up yet.

Sure - I'll pass it along. I hope to try a few more things this weekend on that particular one; in the mean time, the printer is staying busy with a bunch of other builds. I foresee getting up about 2 AM to kick another one off - trying to maximize the number of hours in each day :).

[ricklaut]

I haven't given up on this yet - I've just been busy printing all of the other (less challenging) things first. After learning a few things about how to control warping / shrinking, I'm giving the full size shaker another go.

http://reloadingcreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/20130915-144502.jpg

[ricklaut]

I haven't given up on this yet - I've just been busy printing all of the other (less challenging) things first. After learning a few things about how to control warping / shrinking, I'm giving the full size shaker another go.

Time to attack this through design changes... next move is to divide it up into quarters and try it that way.

[Sitzme]

I made a one holer out of boredom tonight. I can print an array later to get the qty needed. The thru hole is .3 dia, the top entrance is .44 dia x .08 deep and the transition between the two is a 20 deg/side angle. .08 wall th everywhere. As built it has a 1 x 1 sq top and took 11 min to print. I will probably modify it so the array of holes is similar to yours but first I want to find a tray/ammo box to use. I will set the spacing to match if something is available.

[ricklaut]

I made a one holer out of boredom tonight. I can print an array later to get the qty needed. The thru hole is .3 dia, the top entrance is .44 dia x .08 deep and the transition between the two is a 20 deg/side angle. .08 wall th everywhere. As built it has a 1 x 1 sq top and took 11 min to print. I will probably modify it so the array of holes is similar to yours but first I want to find a tray/ammo box to use. I will set the spacing to match if something is available.

Nice! I was thinking I'd start with a 4x4 array. How does the brass / core slip over the transition?

[ricklaut]

Finally! Building off Sitzme's idea of starting with a small array, I found the magic spot in the hours before work today. The dimensions work - the hole is perhaps a little too loose, but I'll know that for sure when the bottom part is done.

http://reloadingcreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/20130916-065635.jpg

[Sitzme]

I can't post a picture right now but mine would remind you of a funnel with a square flange and no side walls. After printing the first one like you did, I tried the straight wall for .08. I found a plastic .17HMR ammo box and if you use holes 1,3,5 on the short side they are .625 apart. So there is a 3 x 5 array on .625 centers waiting for me at home. The idea is to shake in the first group, index up 1 hole and shake in the 2nd group. That will give 30 in 3 rows of 10. I need to find a better source of the ammo boxes than the shooting spots out in the desert though! The one holer seemed to work pretty well but that doesn't mean much yet.

[ricklaut]

Ok - I think we're in business! With a two-hole version of both the base and the top / funnel, both jackets and cores seem to drop as expected. Moving up to a 25 hole version that will be 1/4 of the final product. The top piece is printing now, and I should be able to print the bottom overnight. With those two pieces, an improvised 'fence' and some cores / jackets, we'll see where we're at.


http://youtu.be/u2EruZJ3DtY

[ricklaut]

After several setbacks, I have a working proof of concept of Supe47's core shaker made on a 3D printer! It's not yet perfect, but it works. There are several problems to solve:

I'm still fighting some lifting / warping on the bottom, even though this print is much smaller. However, even though the bottom is a little bowed, it will still work - the top is nice and level. It's not as pretty as it could be though.

My hole sizes may be a little large. I'm finding that with ABS, holes (in particular) tend to shrink from the size they're drawn at. So, after my first prints, I had to enlarge the holes but I didn't know for sure how large to go. After a few trials, I went with a 7.4mm (.291") on the drawing. That translated to a 6.6mm (.259") hole in the plastic. That works for the jackets, but the cores tend to hang up on the edges of the jackets as they're going in the holes. This may also be solved by making one of the trays a bit higher (so jacket lip is lower relative to the chamfer & the core is at a steeper angle falling into the hole and less prone to catch on the lip of the jacket). Or, a combination of both.

Combining pieces together. As drawn, I included a small cut / relief on the base edges thinking they'd align well and be a place for the glue to go. But, with the warping, those edges may need to be at the top, and I'll glue these together sitting face down. These pieces will make a good test for that.

Layer alignment. Right now, nothing is implemented to align the top & bottom layers. I'm thinking of putting little nubs on the bottom layer that would align with small divots on the top layer.

The fence. This part (should) be simple :). This should just amount to a box. But, given the warping / lifting, I anticipate the size of the completed box is going to cause some problems.

http://reloadingcreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/20130917-035129.jpg

Oh, and two other lessons... designing stuff to work on a 3D printer isn't quite 'plug & play; I'm wishing at the moment I had an engineering background and not a criminal justice background :).

[ricklaut]

As I'm learning to control the warping / shrink on the corners of flat pieces, I've accumulated a number of imperfect pieces. So, even though the bottoms of these are warped to varying degrees, I wanted to use them to test bonding them together accurately. And, since I know from my smaller test that the jackets & cores drop, I wanted to scale it up anyway to test my fence (which will print today). In the mean time, here's a combined top plate:
http://reloadingcreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/20130918-051822.jpg

These are glued together with ABS slurry (pieces of scrap melted in acetone). The white one? Yeah, that's what happens when you're clicking through options in the software to get a print going before bed (chose to send it to the extruder loaded with white instead of black by mistake).

Oh, and the warping? Lon suggested adding a small, flat cylindrical piece at each corner that breaks off after printing. It made a huge difference!

Printing the last section of the bottom plate now, and then printing the fence while I'm at work today. Then, assuming this all works as planned, I'll go back to a smaller version and test a few improvements to the sizes & design of the holes, and distance between the top of the jackets and top surface of the plate.

[ricklaut]

Here it is, with a twist. I decided to try attaching the fencing only to the upper tray. This simplifies a lot of things from the printing perspective, and it was a suggestion that came from a friend who was over looking at my reloading room yesterday. Since I had the pieces, and printing the flat sides was easy, why not try it.

Watch the video and give me your feedback (please :) ).. Really, I think the only downside is the possibility of forgetting the pieces aren't all attached and dropping the bottom tray.

You'll see that dropping cores is still the biggest problem (they're still catching on the lips of the jackets). I know how to fix that, but this copy doesn't have the fix. Even manually having to place many of the cores, it took just over 4 minutes. You'll also notice that it's the jackets themselves that are keeping the upper & lower trays aligned. I put 4 jackets into the corners manually to pin them together when starting.


http://youtu.be/zxcTz_6xz9M

[Sitzme]

Nice work. It seems you are making some upward flips. I suggest that you try one with only horizontal motion. More of a jiggle. That is what works best on my case feeder although it is a little different. You ALMOST have me motivated to print one but it has been a long week!

Also, if you didn't put the 4 in the corners, you might just hold the plates in position until some cases drop.

[ricklaut]

After some printer frustrations today (...operator error) I am on the cusp of getting version 2.0 done (crosses fingers). If the scaled up version works as well as the proof of concept (hole dimension change, funnel design change), you'll have to keep the jackets & cores at least 10' away or they'll jump in the holes on their own :). Ok, maybe not quite that good, but it looks like a substantial improvement over how it worked in the video.

Sitzme - what kind of printer do you have?

[Sitzme]

One Reprap and One Repstrap that is not quite online yet. I print with PLA and mostly do specialized foundry patterns with it. The pattern work makes a little money and puts the printer on my table. I have been avoiding ABS since I print in the house and we have a bird (and a wife) so odors are an issue. Even though I have some experience, I am not an expert on 3D printing. I started with a .3mm nozzle but switched to .5mm because of print time and clogging issues. It meant giving up some resolution but that does not effect me too much.

[ricklaut]

Very cool!

I may have posted it elsewhere (can't remember) but I have a FlashForge (MakerBot Replicator legitimate clone). I haven't even printed in PLA yet (don't have any). Honestly, PLA would have probably been easier for this core shaker! Before I got mine, I wondered about the ABS fumes... I hardly notice it and my wife hasn't said a word. The acetone, on the other hand (when making ABS slurry, etc) is noticeable. I came in from outside the other day and realized it. This comes with a .4mm nozzle; I haven't had any clogging issues.

Had some real lessons yesterday (well - this whole experience has been a lesson!), but the outcome is paying off. If all goes as planned (what are the odds of that...), I'll know today and then will be able to send you the .stl files (or the FreeCad project files if you want).

Based on input from several different sources (Lon, Supe47 in particular), the holes are cones (tighter on the outside; wider where the plates meet) and the funnel was redesigned with a steeper angle and a little kicker (the bottom lip of the funnel) right above the position of the jacket.


http://youtu.be/4ULYRUwIh_Y

[lcecil]

My printer is a mendlemax with 0.5 nozzle. It was reprap/homebrew and looks a bit kludged, but works well. I have another Mendelmax kit cooking from Ultibots. It started with a 0.3 nozzle, but that was impossible to get a good first layer. I drilled it to 0.42 and the prints look as good as the 0.3 did.

The trays should print in ABS or PLA from the same drawings, and PLA has a good chance of printing a 100 hole array in one piece. IMHO, that is going to be tougher in ABS, but ABS is just so easy to glue!

[Sitzme]

Good progress. What might be nice and also usefull to those without a printer would be a .pdf or .jpeg of the profile of your funnel and bottom hole. I will try to post mine for comparison but I have to go back to work shortly.

[ricklaut]

Good progress. What might be nice and also usefull to those without a printer would be a .pdf or .jpeg of the profile of your funnel and bottom hole. I will try to post mine for comparison but I have to go back to work shortly.

There may be a better way to show this out of FreeCAD, but I haven't found it. Here's the drawing and a photo of the actual thing:

http://reloadingcreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Funnel_hole-624x455.jpeg
http://reloadingcreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Core_funnel-624x468.jpg

You're looking down the funnel in the top tray. The hole starts off as a cone; the wide end of the cone is on the bottom & you're looking into the top end, with a slightly smaller opening (prior to the chamfer). In the CAD program, the hole is 7.4mm on the bottom and 6.7mm at the top - but - I had to oversize them because the size of the hole shrinks at a ratio I haven't figured out. I tested and found what worked. The "base" of the cone (that you're looking into) has a 3mm chamfer applied; then the top and bottom of the chamfer each have a 1mm filet applied. So, the funnel actually has 4 different profiles, two of which are rounded. Does it need to be that complicated? I don't know for sure - I didn't test every possibility, but I wanted to eliminate a sharp lip in the funnel, and get the core falling at a steep angle.

[Sitzme]

82425

This is the funnel that I used. It seems that there is a lot of leeway and that the most critical dimension is the diameter at the top. Very similar except the straight section. I did that to make tip more before dragging on the funnel. It works but I need to finish the build. Need those 25 hour days to catch up!

[ricklaut]

82425

This is the funnel that I used. It seems that there is a lot of leeway and that the most critical dimension is the diameter at the top. Very similar except the straight section. I did that to make tip more before dragging on the funnel. It works but I need to finish the build. Need those 25 hour days to catch up!

Very cool - thanks for sharing.

Yes, more 25 hour days needed... I'm losing beauty sleep with this printer by my side (...and if you looked at me, you'd realize how much I need that beauty sleep).

[monmouth]

That's an awesome shaker tray! Can you please add me to a list of prospective purchasers when you're ready to roll it out?

[ricklaut]

That's an awesome shaker tray! Can you please add me to a list of prospective purchasers when you're ready to roll it out?

Will do - thanks for your interest!

[ricklaut]

Today, I finished a fully assembled 2nd unit with the improved funnel / tray height. The cores just WANT to drop into the jackets now :). Also, because of how the fence is hard mounted to the top tray, this version will have a plastic strap that clips to the fence and spans the underside of the bottom tray. It's a little challenging getting the strap to print right (more warping / shrinking), but I'm very close. A bit more fine tuning - perhaps another day or two - and I'll be confident enough to offer it for sale.

In my the Swaging Accessories thread (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?212108-Swaging-Accessories&p=2399689&viewfull=1#post2399689), I officially kicked off selling some of the 3D printed stuff. If you're interested, be sure to check there too. In the mean time, here's the latest photos of the core shaker:

http://reloadingcreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Filled_bottom_plate-624x468.jpg

http://reloadingcreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/CoreShakerV2-624x468.jpg

[ricklaut]

Before I call it a day, here's a video of the production version in operation. The problems with the strap are resolved :)


http://youtu.be/cJVAF1XKf9c

[ricklaut]

I'm ready to take orders for the .224 core shaker! I've fully tested it and am confident in my process.

http://reloadingcreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/CoreShakerV2together.jpg

http://reloadingcreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/CoreShakerV2Pieces.jpg

This saves TONS of time, compared to manually placing cores into jackets. And, they're all standing up ready to go, 100 units at a time. For those who haven't followed the whole thread, this is adapted from Supe47's design and built using a 3D printer. Also, it's used with Supe47's express permission (and with his encouragement, and cajoling :) ). The video in the post above shows just how simple and effective this is. The video is 5 minutes long, but I'm talking... As I've tested it, it takes about 2 minutes from start to finish.

Like Supe47's version, this is priced at $75.00 per completed unit (domestic shipping included, includes the upper tray, lower tray and strap - as pictured above). The pricing reflects the amount of time (about 26 hours of printing(!!)) and assembly (12 pieces glued into precise alignment) required to complete a finished unit. PayPal accepted; other forms of payment are fine as well (check, money order).

To order, send me a PM or e-mail (rick@reloadingcreations.com (mailto:rick@reloadingcreations.com)). Paid orders will have an order# associated (which I'll reply with); order status can be checked here: http://reloadingcreations.com/?page_id=218. I will respond to all PMs / e-mails; if for some reason you don't get a reply within a reasonable amount of time (24 hours), double check with me.

Depending on demand, and because of the amount of time it takes to print these, it could take time to fulfill orders (so order early!! :) ). But, with the 'Order Status' page, you'll know where you stand and can track current production. My desire is to be as transparent and efficient as possible.

For more information about this item (and the others I'm offering), visit my ReloadingCreations site (http://reloadingcreations.com).

[ricklaut]

Now, I'm wishing I had a jacket & core separator! When I'm testing these, it's easy enough to get the cores into the jackets; now the harder part is getting batches of 100 cores out of the jackets & separated to test again! :razz:

[MTSWAGER]

Well I got my tray today from Supe47. I have to say it is NICE, drops jackets in a hurry!!!! WELL WELL WELL worth the money, He also is a stand up guy!!!

Thanks alot Supe!!!!!!

[supe47]

De nada.