5.56 Tracer Projectiles, Pulled, Does the Sealant Matter?

[Alan in Vermont]

Kind of off topic for this section of the Forums but I realized there isn't really any specific place for j-word questions.

I just ran across a bag containing about 200 pulled 5.56 bullets. These are tracers, red tip marking. Something my son got when he was into ARs for a while. He never got them to light, probably moisture got into the tracer compound while they were stored out in the open.

I don't care about the tracers lighting, one way or the other, but 200 shootable bullets are not going to get tossed out, not in these times anyhow. However, they are coated, to one degree or another, with sealant, from the cannelure to the boattail. What is the likelyhood for the sealant residue making loaded rounds susceptible to moisture intrusion?

I'm thinking along the lines of tossing them in the tumbler and letting them churn until both the sealant and the red tip marking gets worn off, just not sure how big an issue that spotty sealant really might be.

[P.K.]

I'd be curious as to age, they may not be bad at all, you just can't see them. I've run across a few shooters who think they have a big secret stash or something when they have these in the hopes of causing a target to burn up. Well the disapointment on many faces is usually a laughing matter for me because they got their hands on one of the other varietys out there.

If it came from linked ammo, it prolly was M856, for the SAW(Squad Automatic Weapon or M-249.) ratio of 1:4 and the tip may be a slightly orange in color depending on light, these light off from the get go and burn all the way out. Some out there burn in a low or near Infra-red spectrum visable with NVG's but not so much with the MK-I eyeball.

The three types that come to mind are Bright, Subdued and Dimmed. The Bright will be visable in all light situations, the Subdued, and I think you have these (because of the "sealant") start to burn about 100 yards or so down range so as to not reveal position and the dimmed NVG version. The subdued will shoot just fine, just don't be suprised to see smoke coming from the berm behind the 100 yard mark or so. No worries this is just the tracer cooking off long after the bullet has stopped. ( Remember the laughing matter?)
The dimmed will do the same as the subdued, only you won't see it well if at all depending on light conditions.

Dunno how many other varieties are out there but there are many more I'm sure. As for tumbling them I'dunno, I'd just load and shoot. Dunno if I want to get stronium nitrate and magnesium floating around in the shop.

[Alan in Vermont]

I don't care about the tracer effect, one way or the other. My concern is that with the sealant being spotty it effectively mkes the bullet not round. Bigger where ther is sealant than where there is none. If those little high spots, where the sealant is, could make for a less than optimum fit of bullet in case neck. Granted, the sealant film isn't going to be very thick but might there be microscopic gaps at the edges of the sealant which might allow moisture into the loaded rounds.

It's probably a non-issue and I'm being needlessly anal.

[P.K.]

No not at all, sounds like a valid concern. In my case I wouldn't tumble, I'd do a water bath to see if the sealant loosens up. Start with cold and then warm to boiling to degrade it. Once the sealant has washed and hopefully most of the magnesium and nitrates with it, just dry and check for anything left over clinging to the bullets surface.

[P.K.]

Just did a quick search and the fellas over on this board do the same: http://www.iaaforum.org/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5985

[Alan in Vermont]

I just HAD to play with these a little. Acetone quickly dissolves both the sealant and the red lacquer on the tips. At least it was "quickly" at indoor room temperature. I tried a quick wipe with acetone based brake cleaner indoors. Then I moved things out to the shed and put them all in a tin can and covered them with straight acetone. Between the now 28° temperature of both the solvent and the bullets it is still working but quite a bit slower. I'll give them half an hour then go slush them around and pour off the solvent. The tracer compound didn't react with the acetone and go "POOF!" yet, it will get to sit and dry back out for quite a while before I load them so that will be a non-issue at this point.

[runfiverun]

most tracer compounds need a faster powder to light them off.
that's why you see wc844 come in two different grades.
one has a bit less retardant coating so it will ignite the tracer stuff.