roller trigger tricks

[bigted]

recently i persuaded an old remington military roller in 43 spanish to come live with me for awhile and we imediately fell in love. shooting this rifle is a very large hoot and we hit it off rite away...HOWEVER...the trigger pull is obnoxiouse!!! dang thing must be a 20 pound pull...sooooooo thought id ask the question before i start tinkerin with it.

anybody have a surefire and safe way to lighten the trigger pull on this dandy?

ive seen double set triggers on a few rollers...[all in pictures]...anybody have a hint where i could find a set trigger settup for my remington?

thankyou all
Ted

[calaloo]

All you have to do is replace the trigger spring with a lighter one. Make one from a piece of adequately sized piano (spring) wire. Bend a loop for the screw and enough arc to provide the force to reset the trigger. You will be supprised at how much easier the trigger is.

[Chicken Thief]

Here's what i do:

Measure the hammer spring at the tip and devide that by 3. Thin the intire spring to a point that is the middle thierd.
Hammer spring to a point the same way.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/Til%20andre/DSCN0015_zps640c07cb.jpg
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/Til%20andre/DSCN0016_zps36fe4ae0.jpg

It will take a RB from 7-8lbs down to 2½-3lbs

A belt sander is perfect and by all means hold the spring with your bare fingers, that way it wont get to hot ;)

[Ed in North Texas]

All you have to do is replace the trigger spring with a lighter one. Make one from a piece of adequately sized piano (spring) wire. Bend a loop for the screw and enough arc to provide the force to reset the trigger. You will be supprised at how much easier the trigger is.

I'm puzzled. I've had my No. 1 RBs apart a number of times and found no coil trigger return spring. I've only found flat springs (see Chicken Thief's post), so how do you replace the flat spring with a coil spring?

[oldracer]

62863Here is a link to the instructions I used to lower the pull on my Rolling Block. The piece of wire is bent in the same shape as the flat steel spring with a loop for the screw to hold it down. It is not a coil but a copy of the flat spring shape with just less pressure. One thing I found was to round the end of the piece of wire where it contacts the trigger assembly so there will not be any sharp edges gouging with metal on metal. The amount of curve in the wire, the diameter of the wire and the small amount of bend at the end all have an effect on the trigger pull. Finally, the notch and actual point of the trigger sear have to have a very even and smooth fit and have original hardness. If either part has been filed or worked on then they need to be hardened as Doug Knoell showed me that after 6 or 8 trigger pulls the assembly will start to bind due to the soft steel on steel. After he did mine it broke right at 2# with no creep which is nice.

A couple of additional items I thought of after I posted this. First make sure the sides of the rolling block and the hammer and the area they rotate in are smoooooth and do a bit of polishing so there are no bad pits or rust places. Same with the inside of the frame area and mine had some pitting probably from the preservative that was in there? Make sure the screws that hold it all together are not too tight as they will pinch the block, trigger and hammer so they do not work well together. Last of all, make sure the trigger pivots smoothly on its pin with not too much slop. If the trigger can move around then it will not want to break cleanly no matter what the pull is. Here is a picture I made up to help.

http://www.bpcr.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=338

[bigted]

might be talkin outta turn here but i think he said to take a piece of piano wire...the kind that has coiled wire surrounding the main spring wire...and form it to have a circle on 1 end to attach with the mounting screw and arc it to provide the needed spring preassure on the trigger for a proper return preassure.

Chicken thief...thanks for the photo's here and on the other post i started. i like what you do and plan to try it myself with my flat springs. i really want to get this hummer down to a managable pull as this old rifle WANTS to shoot.

i may customize it someday but first i wanna play with it as is and relish the years it represents with all the history it represents as well.

might even try to mount a long scope to see what it will actually do on targets.

[4060MAY]

Here is one way
keep in mind the hammer has to have a fly in it

[Reg]

Here is one way
keep in mind the hammer has to have a fly in it

Could you show this hammer with a fly and their aprox relationships.
Thanks

[Chicken Thief]

I have altered 11 rifles so far and none have had any trouble igniting a primer what so ever!
But dont get much narrower on the hammer spring = trouble in the making.

If you deside to use a piece of 1/16" piano wire for the trigger spring imagine a number 9 or a needle with a big eye.
And fiddle with the down pressure until you get reliable hammer sear engagement.
That will get you at least 5-7lbs on the hammer alone.

If/when you start to stone the sear, you can expect to get way under 2lbs!!!
I got one of those ;)
1lb3oz.
It was a shooting club rifle so it was fiddled 100 yrs ago.

I have 2 military RB's and they clock in @ 5-7lbs, with the above mentioned spring slimming and nothing further done.

[4060MAY]

REG
I no longer have this in my possession, gun is a Pedersoli RB from Navy Arms
and the trigger was done by Bob Roller, who no longer will do a DST in a RB any longer. Or so I have been informed...I do not have contact info for him..

If you have The DeHass book Single Shot Actions..the fly and relationship is shown in the Single Set trigger drawing

I have installed 5 SST Triggers in RB actions...tough to make work consistently..also the castings are no longer available...I have a .pdf from J Hall Sharon's installation of SST...pm with an email if interested

[missionary5155]

Greetings
To decrease the depth of the sear notch on the hammer. Locate a flat piece of spring ( pocket watch ) that has about the same width as the hammer. Spring thickness should be thick enough to fill the depth of the hammer slot minus the thickness of the sear tip. Basicly you are decreasing the depth of sear engagement in that deep groove. Cut spring about 3/8 inch long and form it to the curve of the hammer bottom at the sear engagement. Clean hammer and spring with alcohol and expoxy in place.
I did my roller this way 20 years ago and last time I looked it is stil in place.
Mike in Peru

[bigted]

very cool...gives me some things to try. thankyou all.