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armoredman
08-07-2007, 02:01 PM
I had to hammer on the hinge with the wooden striker to get the boolits to fall out of the mold almost every cast the other day. I did attempt to "smoke" it with a lighter, ( couldn't find my matches, in another moving box somewhere), but they were pretty stubborn. Once in awhile they'd fall right out, but usually under protest. I remember that I was to never strike the mold itself, correct?
What else can I do to get them to fall easily?

kodiak1
08-07-2007, 02:24 PM
Try Dry Graphite, Soap Stone that welders use and if that don't work then you may have to What they call it here ReLEEf it.
Ken.

45 2.1
08-07-2007, 03:14 PM
More than likely your mold is too hot. Cast at a lower temperature or slow your casting rate down or cool the mold with a fan.

44man
08-07-2007, 03:18 PM
I think you will find tiny burrs on the edges of the cavity. I use Scotch Brite and rub the edges but an ink eraser might work too. Run your fingernail out of the cavity and see if it catches a little on the edge. Even a touch with 400 grit wet or dry works.
A mold without burrs will drop boolits without smoking or anything else. I use Rapine mold prep though and Bull Plate lube. Smoke is good but nothing will cure a burr except to remove it.

piwo
08-07-2007, 07:14 PM
I think you will find tiny burrs on the edges of the cavity. I use Scotch Brite and rub the edges but an ink eraser might work too. Run your fingernail out of the cavity and see if it catches a little on the edge. Even a touch with 400 grit wet or dry works.
A mold without burrs will drop boolits without smoking or anything else. I use Rapine mold prep though and Bull Plate lube. Smoke is good but nothing will cure a burr except to remove it.

When I recently started casting sessions with two molds instead of one, this phenomena almost disappeared. Thing is, I wasn't allowing the mold and the BIG boolits I was casting enough time to cool down in the mould before dropping. I cast at VERY high temps, so sufficient cool down was warranted. Using two molds, I work at a VERY BRISK pace, but there is actually more time between pour and drop then using only one.

Still a needed tap from time to time on the handle (opposite the hang-up), but much less necessary. Anyway, that's what I observed in my case
.........

44man
08-08-2007, 07:54 AM
I do the same but when just using one mold I have to give it a little more time before cutting. If I get a mold with the boolit wanting to stick in the same side all the time, I de burr again and it fixes it.
If I do it right when I finish one of my molds, the boolits fall when I open the handles. I get a lot of burrs when I cherry.

R.M.
08-08-2007, 09:28 AM
Dan
Have you read the Stickey in the "mold Maintainance and Design on Leementing? If you haven't yet, I suggest you do. It's a How To on tuning up Lee Molds.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=654