Help reloading .45acp

[brudford]

I post very seldom or ask questions very seldom . I always thought that with thirty years reloading experience I have seen it all . However, realize now I'am wrong about that ! Just purchased a new PARA GI Expert 1911 in .45acp . Using an old set of .45acp Lee dies that I bought about twenty years ago . Back in the day those Lee dies never saw a lead bullet only FMJ .45 bullets , they were cheap back then . Today if you can even find them they are very pricey . Local caster, Mastercast makes a nice 230 gr. lead round nose . I was not happy with how the Lee die was seating the bullet so I ordered a Hornaday seating die because I have found they use a internal sleeve to hold the bullet perfectly straight while seating . I have found they work great and the price is right . My problem is the seating stem for the round nose bullet leaves a round cut in the lead bullet . I have tried decreasing the angle using a Dremel cutter and highly polishing the inside, helped very little . I have also opened up the case mouth to use less pressure when seating the bullet . Also tried the seater for the SWC bullets and it produces a dent at the top of the bullet . Called Hornaday and if I send a bullet to them they will make a custom seater stem for $ 50.00 ! I think that is way to expensive . Does anyone have an idea or solution for me ? I think most of the industries dies are made with the FMJ bullet in mind ? Maybe ?

[BeeMan]

I don't recall what the Hornady die set includes, but is there a flat nose punch? It may leave a small flat on the nose but that will be harmless. Another option is to mold the seating stem to your bullet profile. Lightly coat the nose of the bullet with lube or oil, mix up some 5 minute epoxy, put a little dab in the punch, and just touch the two together in a straight line. The surest way to align the punch and bullet is in the seater die on your press, but make sure you don't use so much epoxy that it squeezes into places you don't want it.

[rmcc]

What BeeMan said. The 5 minute epoxy is the way to go. Have had good luck using AcraGlas too.

Rich

[brudford]

Thanks , I have used 5 min. epoxy in the past . What do you all think about trying JB Weld .

[35remington]

The Hornady seating dies leave a round mark even on jacketed rifle bullets. As long as the cut is not deep, it does no harm and is merely cosmetic.

Best advice may be to simply ignore it if the bullet feeds and shoots well. BTW, how does it feed and shoot?

[462]

JB Weld or hot melt glue, one.

[MtGun44]

Hot glue is pretty easy, never tried it tho. Epoxy works well.

Bill

[runfiverun]

sometimes a little wad of aluminum foil will press into shape and can be removed.

[Wal']

Maybe look at using a larger expander if its taking that much pressure to seat the boolit.

[brudford]

35 Remington , I bought the all stainless model and it was a jam-o-matic with the made in Italy supplied magazines . Bought four Chip McCormick Shooting Star mags and functions perfect now. Did have some issues with some of the MIM parts . I will try the JB Weld and if that does not work I'll go to the SWC bullets . I know the seater stem for that bullet is flat and will not cut into the bullet . I will use this pistol for our clubs pin and steel plate shoots , maybe the SWC bullet will clear the table faster . Not a bad pistol for $ 500.00 . Even Kimber uses plastic and MIM parts in their $ 2,000.00 pistols . I have since replaced on the GI Expert , plastic trigger , plastic main spring housing and installed a new Beavertail grip safety .

[gwpercle]

Instead of liquid epoxy ( J-B Weld ) I found it easier to use epoxy putty. In the plumbing section, just knead equal parts together, roll up a little ball and put into the seating stem. Don't forget to put a little lube/relase agent on the bollet nose for seperation after it cures.
Gary

[rocice]

Lee will make a custom seating plug http://leeprecision.net/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/View/42/8/custom-bullet-seating-plug "payment of $8 plus shipping" 8 week wait time