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Dr. A
08-06-2007, 09:18 AM
I've been casting, reloading and shooting for many years, now, and have yet to come across this problem. I recently got a new Super Blackhawk Bisley Hunter and casted out 500 boolets of the group buy Keith variety (in wheel weights 260gr. I loaded 18, 19 and 20 gr. of AA#9 and took it to the farm yesterday. The first few rounds had lead shavings falling around me. I went ahead and fired most of my loads ( about 200 total), and the problem seemed to go away afte a bit. (20 rounds or so) They were all sized to .430 and lubed in LLA. I have slugged, and this is the appropriate sizing. The loads were accurate, and the gun suffered no leading. I was able to hit over and over my steel swingers at 100 yards with little difficulty. I've already ordered a Belt mountain base pin. At no point did I have any difficulty in cocking. Action was stiff, but sure, and the gun performed otherwise without fail.

Do I have a problem that needs to be addressed?

Thanks in advance for any help.:) :???:

Bret4207
08-06-2007, 12:02 PM
If the problem went away it's possible there was a burr either throwing it slightly out of time or a ridge left in the throat that got removed by the firing. If the problem disappeared I'd be inclined to continue firing and see what accuracy you get. If it's acceptable I'd call it good to go.

I would also put the gun on paper before I install the Belt Mtn pin. It's been pointed out that fixing a non-existant problem can create problems of it's own. Worth mulling over anyway.

44man
08-06-2007, 12:42 PM
Without a range rod you can still see if there is a timing issue. Clean the gun real good and of course keep it empty!!!! Get a good little flashlight and look down the bore while cocking the gun to each chamber. You should not see the edge of any chamber.
One thing that can give you lead slivers is too soft a lead that expands at the cylinder gap.

pumpguy
08-06-2007, 09:34 PM
David are you still shooting range scrap or did you find some WWs?

Dr. A
08-06-2007, 10:12 PM
Chris, I've been shooting both. I really kind of like the range scrap. It comes out softer and makes better bullets for handguns. I use the wheel weights on the rifle stuff. I currently have about 2000# of range scrap and only about 1000# of the wheel weights. Packing'em in out at the farm.

44MAN,

It looks like the timing is OK. I did groups with all 3 loads, and its definitely one of the most accurate guns I have.

44man
08-06-2007, 11:32 PM
I didn't think it would be a problem. I have owned and worked on a lot of Rugers and never seen one off. All I ever had to do with them is clean them, check them and do trigger jobs. Except to ream throats on the .45's that is. On occasion someone wants the forcing cone recut to 11 degrees.
The only things that ever broke on one of my Rugers were the grip frame screws when they got loose and I forgot to check them. Keep them tight and they will never break. The screw that will give the most trouble is for the ejector housing, have to loc tite it good.
Enjoy the gun, I love them.

44man
08-06-2007, 11:33 PM
I forgot, use some STP oil treatment on the pin and ratchet, the gun will never wear out.

Bass Ackward
08-07-2007, 06:33 AM
Problems can be something or nothing. Could be as simple as improper lubrication or dirt to headspace problems from the ammo itself. New guns that are particularly tight, can be vulnerable to this. Especially with very slow cocking. One reason I like to break in guns with jacketed first without lubrication.

I just purchased two new cylinder stops and springs because the rounded top of the stop was getting a flat spot (probably poor heat treat). It was enough to increase friction and periodically not engage with some larger diameter cast ammo. If it is minor and goews uncorrected, you will end up with an oblong forcing cone.

Proper diagnosis will allow you to solve your problem and return your confidence.

44man
08-07-2007, 07:53 AM
Thats something I forgot about. My BFR 45-70 needs just a little spin on the cylinder to reach full lock once in a while because of either a chunk of something in the case head recess or a case head dragging. The cylinder is so big and heavy it will stop before lockup and squirt a little. When I feel it is tighter to turn I make sure it locked.
With an empty cylinder it locks up tight no matter how slow and easy I cock it, the hand forces it to lockup nicely. With a drag on a case, the hand doesn't have the power to keep turning it unless the hammer is pulled hard. I just assist it by turning the cylinder.
The headspace is very close on the gun.

felix
08-07-2007, 08:22 AM
That hand business has always given me problems. I am a slow cocker, and seldom shoot double action. I wonder if the design of a revolver could be improved dramatically using a worm gear of sorts, eliminating the stopper-holder-bolt and indexer-hand? I have had several revolters factory re-timed with serious complaint letters, and the guns have been returned with much improved accuracy (timing and holding). ... felix

44man
08-07-2007, 11:11 AM
Be awful tough. If pressure is increased on the hand it means more wear on the hand and ratchet ( The reason I use STP on mine.) If the cylinder is spun fast, the lock recesses, frame and lock get battered. To change the mechanics would mean a huge, cumbersome gun.
Those guys that speed shoot, fan guns, quick draw and just yank the hammer back have more money then I do to get guns fixed all the time. No problem with those that are sponsered, they just get new, free guns.
Can you imagine the huge 45-70 cylinder after a bunch of speed shooting?
I think the cylinder weight is one reason Ruger went to a lighter Vaquero for cowboy action shooters, to reduce damage.
I will continue to cock my guns slow and easy and use good lube.
The way I look at it is you either have some common sense or are too rich to care.

9.3X62AL
08-07-2007, 11:33 AM
Lotta good info in this thread. As for cocking a revolver more gently/slowly, I'm reminded of a description the late Bob Milek made about slowly cocking a Ruger S/A, setting up a shot on a deer. He described the noise as being "like dragging a pipe across a cattle guard".

44man
08-07-2007, 03:37 PM
I have only had one deer look my way when I cocked the gun and she didn't run. You can hold the trigger back as you cock and then release it when the hammer is back, takes out some of the noise. Not as bad as a Colt or Freedom with all the clicks. Some guys love those clicks. Even go so far as to convert Rugers to make the sound.
Watch the videos on the outdoor channel where everyone snaps off the safety with the "Click" that jars the camera.