How do I break in my new Lyman mould?

[Lucky Joe]

I did a short search on this subject but couldn't turn anything up. I have a new Lyman mould and want to start this one the right way. Could anyone here point me to a thread that would cover this subject or if have the time give me some information on breaking in a new Lyman mould. Most of the moulds I have used in the past had previous owners. This is a nice little SC 358101 and I want to start it out right as I expect to keep it a long time and cast a lot of boolits.

Thanks

[MGySgt]

Breaking a new Steel mold -

Clean it
Check for burrs (not that common on steel, but it can happen)
Adjust alignment pins as needed
Heat up
Lube with Bull Shops Spur Plate Lube in accordance with his directions)
And
CAST
CAST
CAST

At least for me - a new mold will take 2 or 3 casting sessions before it starts producing it's best bullets. That may be me getting use to it, but I think it is the mold getting 'seasoned'.

Go for it and let us know how it worked out.

Drew

[44man]

Drew is right, just do the normal checks and clean it gooood. I like dish soap and hot water with a toothbrush. It won't take anything special to get it to cast good.

[floodgate]

Joe:

One thing to check: the lower edge of the sprue plate (sheared out of flat stock) can have burrs that will put scratches on the top of the blocks. I usually take a fine file or stone and swipe around the lower edge, especially in the notch where the plate comes up against the stop-pin (vigorous closing of the plate and mould can raise a burr there). Also, feel for any burrs at the lower opening of the pouring hole and gently remove them if present. If the bases don't fill out cleanly after a few tries and the mould is up to temperature, one swipe along the inside top edges of the blocks where they meet, at 45* will add another vent line at that point. Let us know how it goes.

floodgate