Automated Master Caster - soon.........

[mktacop]

I'm working on automating my Master Caster as previously done by WymanWinn, Hatch, and ShootinFox2. The first of my parts arrived yesterday and I got the mount for the lead-pour cylinder and the mount for the mold-arm cylinder made and installed.

The remainder of the parts should arrive today and I will be able to get the cylinders themselves mounted and start on the wiring for the electronic portion. Wiring isn't my strong suit, so hopefully I wont end up frying anything.....[smilie=b:

With any luck, my Master Caster should be cranking out bullets on it's own by the end of the weekend. Pictures and a video will of course be posted once it is all functioning.

[GARD72977]

Cant wait to see that. Include some info on the electronics. Im like you the mechanical stuff if easy but the electronics are past my ability.

[landers]

I have been considering doing this, you may be the straw that breaks the camels back. Please keep us posted.

[mktacop]

The remainder of the parts arrived today. :-D I started on the wiring, but didn't finish since I took my wife to dinner. When we got back, I had one hole left to drill.....the one that mounts the clevis for the mold arm activation cylinder. Where it mounts is steel instead of aluminum like most of the Master Caster base, and very hard steel at that. I tried a center punch to help get a bit started, but only succeeded in breaking the tip off the center punch and imbedding it in my hand. Once I got the blood cleaned up, I broke out my propane torch and gave the area a little heat to help coerce the drill bit into the steel.

That worked, and after some slow drilling (and 2 broken bits) I now have that hole drilled and can mount the clevis.

Tomorrow is, as they say, a new day and I will tackle the remainder of the project when I'm fresh.

Stand by for more updates!

[wymanwinn]

WELL!!!!

your not up working on the MC...!!!!

LOL...wyman


The remainder of the parts arrived today. :-D I started on the wiring, but didn't finish since I took my wife to dinner. When we got back, I had one hole left to drill.....the one that mounts the clevis for the mold arm activation cylinder. Where it mounts is steel instead of aluminum like most of the Master Caster base, and very hard steel at that. I tried a center punch to help get a bit started, but only succeeded in breaking the tip off the center punch and imbedding it in my hand. Once I got the blood cleaned up, I broke out my propane torch and gave the area a little heat to help coerce the drill bit into the steel.

That worked, and after some slow drilling (and 2 broken bits) I now have that hole drilled and can mount the clevis.

Tomorrow is, as they say, a new day and I will tackle the remainder of the project when I'm fresh.

Stand by for more updates!

[mktacop]

I'm up!! :-)

[Dave Bob]

I should be ashamed.....I have all the parts in my shop, just need to get started.

Dave

[mktacop]

It's Alive!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0usd7XUq9MA


MANY, MANY thanks to WymanWinn, Hatch, and ShootinFox2 for helping me and making this project a reality!!

[VHoward]

Good to hear. The video won't play for me.

[mktacop]

Posted a new link above

[VHoward]

Looks good. Makes me wish I had one. I mainly like to tinker with machines.

[wymanwinn]

Posted a new link above

NICE work Buddy...!!!!

wyman

[mktacop]

NICE work Buddy...!!!!

wyman

Thanks Wyman!

[Beagle333]

That is really awesome! 8-) A boolit makin' machine is a thing of happiness to watch as it does it's magic. :drinks:

[mktacop]

Thanks!

[HATCH]

How did you do a counter??

[mktacop]

How did you do a counter??

The counter is a little unit I bought on Fleabay. I already had it set up with a small switch that activates it every time the handle goes up. It also has a reset button and a Minus 1 button. I can PM you a link to the counter if you would like one

[6bg6ga]

The counter is a little unit I bought on Fleabay. I already had it set up with a small switch that activates it every time the handle goes up. It also has a reset button and a Minus 1 button. I can PM you a link to the counter if you would like one


http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?152196-Bullet-counter-for-Star-Magma&highlight=boolit+counter

[shootinfox2]

Good Job. 1/4 inch hardware cloth makes a good wrap around to keep the sprues in place. Inas going to ask for the link to the counter, but 6bg6ga posted it. Thanks to all.

Fox

[mktacop]

I have a wiring diagram I can post if anyone would like it for their project.

[Dave Bob]

I would. thanks
Dave

[mktacop]

I would. thanks
Dave


I'll get it cleaned up and post it tomorrow (gotta make some corrections).

[HATCH]

I will set the counter up to use the 24vdc that the limit switch provides.
Just requires a relay.

I just like to have a estimate on what i have cast. I can write a loop in the plc program that it runs for x amount of cycles and stops.
If i were just casting the same size boolit all the time i would run the loop for 35lbs worth of boolits.
That way i will have 5lbs of lead left in the pot.

[angus6]

think I'll check about putting a counter on the bullet master

[Dave Bob]

Thanks!!

Dave

[HATCH]

Diagram is wrong
Just a quick look...
The switches should be hooked to 24vdc positive not negative

[HATCH]

C1 is negative and v1 should be positive

[mktacop]

C1 is negative and v1 should be positive

The updated PLC you listed in the parts list doesn't have a V1. I had C1 negative at first, and it didnt work. when i changed it to positive, it worked.

[HATCH]

Looking over the diagram, it will work like you have it except for the manual lead pour.
From your diagram you are switching NEG not Positive.
The limit switch should have 24 vdc POSITIVE running thru it.
that is why you have to change C1 to positive instead of neg.

I used two different PLC's in design so some may not have the V1.

[mktacop]

Looking over the diagram, it will work like you have it except for the manual lead pour.
From your diagram you are switching NEG not Positive.
The limit switch should have 24 vdc POSITIVE running thru it.
that is why you have to change C1 to positive instead of neg.

I used two different PLC's in design so some may not have the V1.

Gotcha. I removed the other diagram until I can get it edited. I'm going to leave it hooked up as-is though since it works great. I just need to edit 3-way switch for the manual/auto lead pour.

[HATCH]

Keep in mind by switching negative you may run into operational issues according to the plc instructions (the manufacturer instructions)
false readings are possible if i remember correctly.