Ed's Red dispenser

[Norbrat]

To wet a patch with Ed's Red, without it getting too soaked, I tried using a roll on deodorant bottle, rolling it over the patch in the palm of my hand, but that doesn't work too well as it doesn't dispense enough.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8106/8496303076_abaf78fa60_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/11260137@N07/8496303076/)

So I looked around for something else and came up with these little pump dispenser bottles for manicurists/nail technicians to use to soak their nail polish removal swabs with acetone.

Works great!! 8-)

And cost me all of $2.84 for 2 of them, inc postage (Ebay item 261083579137)

You can get much larger bottles as well, but I got the smaller ones as I doubt they seal well enough to prevent evaporation; it still holds plenty for dozens of patches.

[zuke]

Great idea!

[Silverboolit]

My wife just showed me one. It is labled 'Almay skin conditioner' and she thinks that she bought it at Walgreen drug. Guess who is going to retreive that from the landfill??

[RugerFan]

Interesting

[375RUGER]

I bet they've got em at Sally Beauty Supply too. Among this crowd, I hate to say I even shop there, but those girls are helpful. They taught me more about skull whitening in 5 minutes than what I got off of the internet.

[John Boy]

... a metal lighter fluid can. Flip the tip - a drop or a squirt

[RayinNH]

I use a soy sauce bottle. I put a patch over the mouth of the bottle and invert it. Depending on the size of the patch, I either invert it quickly or wait a second or two. The long neck makes for easy grabbing...Ray

[STP22]

I use a similar method as Ray.

I use alot of Frank`s Hot sauce and reuse the bottles. The caps are very snug fitting and easy to use for applying on cleaning patches for bore cleaning.

Have donated many small bottles of Ed`s Red that way locally with a easy to understand explanation as to how to use it. The follow-up comments have been 100% positie, and many have home brewed their own mix for future use.

I have always skipped the addition of lanolin, as I inspect everything twice a year and have no need for it with my personal method of overall care of my items.

My only precaution is that the bottles are labeled, as Ed`s Red looks just like strawberry Kool-Aid.

Regards,

Scott

[geargnasher]

Cholula hot sauce, with the wooden lid. Soy sauce and some of the fancy vinegar bottles have the plastic "shaker" insert that helps a lot if you "stump yer toe" while wetting a patch or drizzling some on a brush. So far, all the Nylon shakers and gaskets in these types of bottles have been unaffected by the solvent, been using several for at least two years now and they're still like new.

Gear

[Norbrat]

I started looking for an alternative after I'd scavenged a plastic HP sauce bottle, but decided I didn't want to risk the solvents in Ed's Red dissolving the bottle.

I figured it was worth $1.42 to have something small and handy which shouldn't dissolve; after all, if it's made to take 100% acetone.............

Lots of ways to skin a cat.

[MattOrgan]

Norbrat,

Brilliant! Just ordered two.

Thanks,

Matt

[Recluse]

... a metal lighter fluid can. Flip the tip - a drop or a squirt

THAT is a great idea.

:coffee:

[Slowpoke]

Google-- Zoom Spout Oiler

Its what I have used for the past 20 years for ED's Red, works good and cheap.

good luck

[Baron von Trollwhack]

Is that dispenser on the left showing plastic degradation?

BvT

[montanamark]

That looks like a great idea.

My Dad uses an old Cepacol plastic spray bottle to hold Ed's Red. The plastic has not deteriorated over 20 years and the pump sprayer in the bottle has held up. Takes about two or three pumps to wet a 12-ga sized patch.

Mark

[jonk]

I bought a supposed solvent bottle from harbor freight (ha) and the Ed's Red after 2 months turned it into mush.

I like the idea of glass, next empty bottle I have is getting saved for this.

[kenjuudo]

The bottles Fixodent powdered denture adhesive come in have a spout similar to an eyedrop bottle. Marked 2 on the bottom but I've used them for years with ed's red, sweet's etc. Nice thing is they don't leak much if any when you knock them over.

[captaint]

Sinclair sells little bottles that really are chemical proof. I mean, this is what they are meant for. I've had some for years and they're fine. Cheap enough and good. Mike

[uscra112]

eBay link in the OP wasn't valid, but I tracked them down. All sold from China or Hong Kong. No thanks!

[Lizard333]

I just emptied a soy sauce bottle last night and cleaned it this morning. I downloaded the Ed's red recipe and it looks like this:

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

Can I add liquid lanolin? I have some around the house because I mix it with alcohol to make my case lube.

Also, could I store the extra mix in a canning jar? Would it be a problem with the lid?

Don't me to hijack the thread, but this thread finally got me try it. Thanks!

[Shiloh]

To wet a patch with Ed's Red, without it getting too soaked, I tried using a roll on deodorant bottle, rolling it over the patch in the palm of my hand, but that doesn't work too well as it doesn't dispense enough.

[
So I looked around for something else and came up with these little pump dispenser bottles for manicurists/nail technicians to use to soak their nail polish removal swabs with acetone.

Works great!! 8-)

And cost me all of $2.84 for 2 of them, inc postage (Ebay item 261083579137)

You can get much larger bottles as well, but I got the smaller ones as I doubt they seal well enough to prevent evaporation; it still holds plenty for dozens of patches.

Clever.

I use some of those small polypropylene bottles from Brownells.

Shiloh

[waksupi]

Most any pharmacy has small plastic bottles with push stop tops. They work fine, and only cost about a buck.

[Gtek]

The used up Kroil pint can with little red cap. Gtek

[Von Gruff]

The used up Kroil pint can with little red cap. Gtek

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv39/VonGruff/Miscelaneous/thumbsup2_zpsc1d5d77f.gif

That is what I use as well. No evaporation and fine dispensing spout.

[uscra112]

Rubber canning seals won't be compatible with the solvents. Best volume storage I have is the steel cans that acetone and methyl-ethyl-ketone are sold in. I have one that contains fuel for my model airplane diesels, which has a lot of ether in it. It there's anything that's even harder to keep than acetone, it's ether, but over several years my fuel has not lost it's zap. My Ed's Red shop storage is a plastic pint bottle that was sold with nail polish remover in it. Gotta try the soy sauce bottle. If it'll keep the acetone in, it'll be ideal. I'm not too sure the cap on those hot sauce bottles will do it.

[GabbyM]

The used up Kroil pint can with little red cap. Gtek

If any of you all have a can of KROIL laying around. You may want to pour a couple OZ of ATF in it. My KROIL rusted out the can.

[dromia]

I just emptied a soy sauce bottle last night and cleaned it this morning. I downloaded the Ed's red recipe and it looks like this:

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

Can I add liquid lanolin? I have some around the house because I mix it with alcohol to make my case lube.

Also, could I store the extra mix in a canning jar? Would it be a problem with the lid?

Don't me to hijack the thread, but this thread finally got me try it. Thanks!

As written by the man himself.

"Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner
Home Mix Really Works
By C.E. ''Ed'' Harris
Four years ago I mixed my first "Ed's Red" or "ER" bore cleaner and hundreds of
users have told me that they think this home-mixed cleaner is more effective than
commercial products. I urge you to mix some and give it a fair trial, compared to
whatever you have been using. Competitive shooters, gun clubs and police
departments who use a gallon or more of rifle bore cleaner annually can save by
mixing their own, and they will give up nothing in safety or effectiveness.
This cleaner has an action very similar to standard military issue rifle bore
cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. Users report it is more effective than Hoppe's for
removing plastic fouling in shotgun bores, or caked carbon fouling in semi-
automatic rifles or pistols, or in removing leading in revolvers. It is not as effective
as Sweets 7.62, Hoppe's Bench Rest Nine or Shooter's Choice for fast removal of
heavy copper fouling in rifle bores. However, because "ER" is more effective in
removing caked carbon and abrasive primer residues than other cleaners, metal
fouling is greatly reduced when "ER" is used on a continuing basis.
I originally came up with this mix because I am an active high power rifle
competitive shooter and hand loading experimenter who uses a lot of rifle bore
cleaner. I was not satisfied with the performance and high price of commercial
products. I knew there was no technical reason why an effective firearm bore
cleaner couldn't be mixed using common hardware store ingredients. The result is
inexpensive, effective, provides good corrosion protection and adequate residual
lubrication so that routine "oiling" after cleaning is rarely necessary, except for long-
term storage of over 1 year, or harsh service environments, such as salt water
exposure.
This formula is based on proven principles and incorporates two polar and two
nonpolar solvents. It is adapted from the one in Hatcher's Notebook for "Frankford
Arsenal Cleaner No.18," but substituting equivalent modern materials. I had the
help of an organic chemist in doing this and we knew there would be no "surprises."
The original Hatcher formula called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts
Astral Oil and sperm oil, and optionally 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin added per
liter. Some discussion of the ingredients is helpful to understand the properties of
the cleaner and how it works.
Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. I
recommend "K1" kerosene of the type normally sold for use in indoor space
heaters. Some users have reported successful substitution of civilian aviation grade
kerosene such as Turbo-A. I am reluctant to "recommend" substitution of aviation
grade kerosene, because the effects upon firearm components of the additives
required in aviation fuels are unknown. Some "jet- fuels" are gasoline/kerosene
blends and absolutely should not be used, because of their increased flammability.
An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron (II, IIe or III)
automatic transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950 that most ATF's were sperm oil
based, but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use in precision instruments.
With the great demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was
no longer practical to produce ATF in the quantity demanded, so the synthetic
material became the basis for the Dexron fluids we know today. The additives in
ATFs which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants, make it highly
suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner-lubricant-preservative.
Hatcher's original Frankford Arsenal No. 18 formula used gum spirits of
turpentine. Because turpentine is expensive today, and is also an "aromatic"
solvent, which is highly flammable, I chose not to use it. Safer and cheaper is
"aliphatic mineral spirits," a petroleum based "safety solvent" used for thinning oil
based paints and also widely used as an automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly
sold under the names "odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".
Acetone is included in "ER" to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for
caked powder residues. Because acetone is an aromatic, organic solvent, it is
recommended that users leave it out if the cleaner will be used in enclosed spaces
lacking forced air ventilation. The acetone in ER will evaporate, liberating volatile
organic compounds (VOCs) into the atmosphere unless containers are kept tightly
closed when not in use. The cleaner is still effective without the acetone, but it is
not as "fast-acting."
There isn't anything in Ed's Red which chemically dissolves copper fouling in rifle
bores, but it does a better job removing carbon and primer residue than anything
else which is safe and commonly available. Numerous users have told me, that
exclusive use of "ER" reduces copper deposits, because it removes the old impacted
powder fouling which is left by other cleaners, which reduces the abrasion and
adhesion of jacket metal to the bore surface, leaving a cleaner surface condition
which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience seems to indicate that "ER" will
actually remove metal fouling it if you let it "soak," so the surfactants will do the
job, though you have to be patient.
Addition of the lanolin to ER bore cleaner mix is entirely optional. The cleaner
works quite well and gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication for most
users without it. Incorporating the lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands,
and increases lubricity and film strength, and improves corrosion protection if
weapons will be routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, industrial or urban
corrosive atmospheres, or if you intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for long
term storage of over 1 year.
If you use other protective films for adverse use or long term storage you can
leave the lanolin out and save about $8 per gallon. At current retail prices you can
buy all the ingredients to mix ER, without the lanolin for about $10 per gallon. I
urge you to mix some yourself. I am confident it will work as well for you as it does
for me and hundreds of users who got the "recipe" on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-
20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-
T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard
Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka
"Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional: Up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous,
USP per gallon, OK to substitute Lanolin,
Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug
store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER"
BORE CLEANER:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation.
Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-
resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC
plastic container. NFPA approved plastic
gasoline storage containers are also OK.
Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable,
because the acetone will eventually
evaporate. The acetone in ER will also
attack HDPE, causing the container to
collapse, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components,
so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt
this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted
lanolin into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it
is all dissolved.
I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50
ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done
without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix.
LABEL AND NECESSARY SAFETY WARNINGS:
RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.
2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately.
In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician.
For skin contact wash thoroughly.
3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a
violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its
labeling. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational
overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If
using in closed armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory
protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when
not in use.
Instructions for using "Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:
1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective
when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton
patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from
breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do
not pull it back into the bore.
2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this
time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually
advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute
to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.
3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded revolvers or
neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove
stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine
use.
4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened
residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back
into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust
for 1 year under average conditions.
5. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from
rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I recommend use of Lee Liquid
Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or
Cosmolene.
6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's
Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to
most wood finishes).
7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the
chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot
point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as
described.
8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively
and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or
military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and are
heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first
to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a
thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from
residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART
whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the
corrosive residue out.
In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed
Updated & Revised 9-29-95. This "Recipe" is placed in the public domain, and may be freely
distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all current revisions, instructions
and safety warnings included herein, and that proper attribution is given to the author.
Warning: All technical data mentioned, especially handloading, reflect the limited
experience of individuals using specific tools, products, equipment and components
under specific conditions and circumstances not necessarily reported in the article or
on this web site and over which this web site or the author has no control. The above has no control over the
condition of your firearms or your methods, components, tools, techniques or
circumstances and disclaims all and any responsibility for any person using any data
mentioned. Always consult recognized reloading manuals.

[tomf52]

The PVC pipe cleaner cans with the cotton swab attached to the lid have worked for me for years. About $3.50 in the hardware stores. I dump the contents into my one gallon storage can of Ed's Red to dispose of the solvent when I purchase the cleaner.

[Norbrat]

All sold from China or Hong Kong. No thanks!

Up to you.

It would be somewhat hypocritical for an Aussie to refuse to trade with the Chinese, as Australia supplies China a huge amount of iron ore, coal, LPG and other minerals.

Almost all these kinds of small bottles, etc, are now made in China anyway, whether you buy them from your local drug store or not.

In fact, I recently bought a Frankford Arsenal Bullet Puller, a Tetra Gun Jag and a Lyman Scale Pan and guess what, all made in China.

As for getting stuff sent from HK or China; the stuff I get is generally low cost (got all the bits for my PID, for example), so if it doesn't get here, no big deal, but everything has always arrived safely and has been exactly as advertised. In fact, it's often faster than trying to get something locally.

[mo_bio]

I bet they've got em at Sally Beauty Supply too. Among this crowd, I hate to say I even shop there, but those girls are helpful. They taught me more about skull whitening in 5 minutes than what I got off of the internet.
They don't even laugh at me anymore when I bring my bald head in and get peroxide and whitening powder.

[Lizard333]

Btw, liquid lanolin is NOT a substitute for anhydrous lanolin. It clumps at the bottom and doesn't mix. FYI

[MattOrgan]

Norbrat,

My dispensers got hear today, shipped from New York.

We here in the U.S. will not buy anything produced in China. Except when we by DeWalt, Milwaukee, Vise Grip, and other brands that used to be made here, or maybe when we sneak into Walmart or Harbor Freight to practice a little free market capitalism and buy cheap stuff........

I am pure in my purchase of Konad brand nail polish dispensers, they are made in South Korea, an ally of ours. These are very heavy duty looking and work great. What a joy to press lightly on the top with a patch and have it perfectly saturated with Ed's Red, one hand, no spilling, no wastage. Saturate a Q-tip (The real deal- made in USA) with a touch.

This is a great tip, works better in practice than I thought it would. Plan to fill my second one with lubricating oil, my third with Sweet's 7.62.

Thanks for posting it.

Matt

[Norbrat]

Hi Matt

Glad it's working well for you :-D

Cheers

[Gee_Wizz01]

Also, could I store the extra mix in a canning jar? Would it be a problem with the lid?

Don't me to hijack the threa.d, but this thread finally got me try it. Thanks!

As stated above, the ER will cause the seal to degrade. My issue with the big glass jars of Ed's Red is the mess they make when you drop one! If you get the ER on the glass, they very slippery. I use a one gallon steel gas can with a metal spout, which works great. Ed' Red is great stuff and I have been using it for 20 years now. Four of my shooting buddies want to go in together and make 4 gallons! One of the guy's owns a transmission shop and will supply the Dexron and a steel 5 gallon container to mix the brew. A gallon lasts me about 3 years.

G

[geargnasher]

For volume storage I use glass, gallon wine jugs with metal screw lids. Had to make gaskets out of milk jug plastic because the acetone eats the Neoprene gaskets the lids come with.

That Cepacol pump sprayer trick has my full attention!

Gear

[Shiloh]

Most any pharmacy has small plastic bottles with push stop tops. They work fine, and only cost about a buck.

They have eye drop bottles as well. Get the ones the pharmacists use for med prep. Not the ones pre packaged from the suppliers.
Those work just as well mind you, they are just three times the price.

Shiloh

[barrabruce]

I use a hip flask with an oring in the screw top.
No dramas as yet. I usually wrap a patch on me rod and poke it in the hole to wet.
I just store the bulk in the containers I bought the stuff in.Mostly those plastic see through generic metho/turps/ kero bottles.

I personally don't use the acetone in the mix or the lanolin.

The bottles sound like a good idea thou.

Works good as a wd40 sustitute well think its better..in a squirty bottle.