Mold sticking shut

[texassako]

I have been messing around with an old Ideal 358250 single cavity. The bullet base is sticking it shut and has me a bit stumped now. I checked the alignment pins, and even left the top one driven in and it still sticks. I checked for burrs around the edges, and even lapped it with toothpaste. Mold release made it slightly better with only one knock needed after pulling open, but it came back as lapping removed it. The bullet casts .002" out of round but is largest along the parting lines and smallest perpendicular. It does not stick empty. Once I pull the handles open, the bullet sticks to either side requiring a couple of knocks on the handle hinge. I am now thinking it has to be something on both sides since it sticks equally to either side, but what to look for?

[runfiverun]

rolled over edges on the cavity's.
if it's holding the boolits in place it's because you poured lead locking the mold shut.
look at the edges of the boolits for little tears and double seam lines.

[BACKTOSHOOTING]

rolled over edges on the cavity's.
if it's holding the boolits in place it's because you poured lead locking the mold shut.
look at the edges of the boolits for little tears and double seam lines.

I'm having this same problem and i'm sure its the base of the mold.
How do you fix it ?

[texassako]

rolled over edges on the cavity's.
if it's holding the boolits in place it's because you poured lead locking the mold shut.
look at the edges of the boolits for little tears and double seam lines.

I found a faint double seam line with shiny little tears on the base and bands after looking closely under bright light. I can lap the mold since that showed a little improvement, or I could just use mold release since it finally worked for the last 50 boolits before the hangup started to come back.

[runfiverun]

sometimes a little extra magnification and an exacto knife can be applied along the ridges to square them up.
once you have things broken down then a little lapping will even things out.

if it's in the gas check area i'd pick at it with the x-acto blade you need to be real careful about opening this area up or it leads to frustration.

generally a sticking mold is from the alignment pins,but when you have to beat on a mold to release a boolit you have to look for why/where.
and the little edge of the cavity is generally the answer.

[DLCTEX]

I found a faint double seam line with shiny little tears on the base and bands after looking closely under bright light. I can lap the mold since that showed a little improvement, or I could just use mold release since it finally worked for the last 50 boolits before the hangup started to come back.
Better to repair the problem so that the fix is permanent. I'd lap it more.

[chboats]

I have found that new molds may have very small burrs around the edges of the cavities. At first they are not much problem but if left, they will start to collect small deposits of lead, which will make the problem worse. You will have to clean all the lead out as runfiverun suggested. With some molds I will give the handle hinge a tap as I am opening the mold. The little bit of shock will make it easier to open.

Carl

[Iron Mike Golf]

Try tapping the handle hinge pin to let that vibration open the block. I have an old 4 cav 452460 that seems to have a spot on a a couple of cavities where the outside edge of the dive band is wider than it should be. If I open the blocks using the handles, drive bands tear.