break in procedures

[roarindan]

I'm in receipt of a new lyman 223 mold. seems to me I've read somwheres about cleaning, smoking or some other stuff I should do before i start casting some ww's.
please tell me what you do to your new molds.

[nhrifle]

Don't smoke it. First step is to get it really clean. Even if it appears dry, there is still some machining oil left in the cavities and these will cause wrinkles and voids in the boolits. I use spray carburetor cleaner on my moulds. Soak the blocks all over, let them dry, then soak them again, paying particular attention to the inside faces and cavities. That's it! I usually do this while my pot is coming up to temp. After the blocks are dry, set them on the edge of your melting pot for a few minutes to warm them up, then start casting.

[runfiverun]

clean heat lube cast.
if the castings are coming out bad i clean some more and lube again.
i have had a mold or two take a while to get all the old oil out of the cavity's
so be patient.

[montana_charlie]

I recommend you degrease the mould blocks like mentioned above, but 'flush' them with the carb cleaner.
If you just spray and let it dry, the oil doesn't go anywhere.

You have to flush them (providing a way for oils to drain off) or you need to blot the solvent away (with the oil) using absorbent material.

BUT, I would do all of this degreasing with the mould totally disassembled ... sprue plate removed, and all screws out of thier holes.
After the blocks are dry, use anti-sieze compound (on a toothpick tip) to put a little lube into all of the threaded holes. Because it will be years (maybe) before the screw is removed, I prefer the anti-sieze compound for this.

Then, still using a small applicator, apply some lube to the sprue pivot washer, and that corner of the mould block ... then put the plate on and adjust the pivot screw for 'gentle' friction.

Now that the mould is lubed (with actual lubricant, not 'wax') mount it on the handles with anti-sieze in those holes, too.

You will probably want to lube the bottom of the sprue plate and the top of the mould blocks to prevent galling.
Do that with a very sparing application of Bullplate or synthetic 2-cycle motor oil, after the steel is hot.
A barely damp Q-tip is used for that "very sparing" application.

Don't let it migrate into the cavity that you just got cleaned of all oils.

CM

[Huntducks]

I use brake clean that carb stuff is harsh on the things around you like hands and plastic + it stinks.

After I spray it I blow it out with air, if it's real gummed up I use a lite brass brush right after spraying.