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trixter
02-13-2013, 01:37 PM
The new mold is on the way, now I need to find out how you successful casters are using your Mp 452-200 HP 45ACP molds. I guess I need a primer. How do you clean the 'brass' mold? Is there a significant break in time or procedure? How hot do you preheat the mold? How hot do you run your melt (generally) with similar to Lyman #2 material? How long 1001,1002,1003 etc of a count before you cut the sprue, or do you use the dimple method? Then how long before you open the mold?

I actually have been casting for about 3 years now, but never with a brass mold, always an aluminum one.

tomme boy
02-13-2013, 03:35 PM
Do a few heat cycles to the mold. Each time, cast a couple boolits then let the mold cool off. Run the pins loose and lubed. If you have any graphite spray lube, spray the pins.

MtGun44
02-13-2013, 10:47 PM
Heat up and cast. Use a trace of Bullplate lube on the top of mold, bottom of sprue
plate and alignment pins, plus a trace on the HP pins, unscrewed slightly to be loose.

Bill

41mag
02-14-2013, 08:09 AM
The above is pretty much all there is too it. I did find that I needed to run my pot around 725-745 for my particular alloy to fill out well. You might have to play with it a bit for yours but ease up on it, and once you hit where it likes go for it.

This was what I accomplished the afternoon I got my 41 HG 258 4 CAV,
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f285/41nag/Shooting/Cast%20Boolit%20Loading%20and%20Shooting/0402120507c.jpg

I also ordered the 45-200 and am looking forward to putting it to use as well. good luck with yours.

Iron Mike Golf
02-24-2013, 11:21 AM
1. I clean the blocks twice with Dawn and a toothbrush
2. I use a hotplate with a saw blade for pre-heating
3. After cleaning, I heat the cleaned and disassembled blocks 3 times on the hotplate. 45-60 min of heating, followed by cooling to bare-handed handling temp.
4. Lube with Bullplate as described above
5. For penta-pins, I examine and dress the toolmarks on the pentagon surfaces. All HP pins get a shot of dry-lube
6. Run the guide pins loose. I like mine to be able to re-seat in the block just using the weight of the pins and a jiggle of the mold.
7. I preheat 20-30 min while the pot is melting alloy ingots. I run the hot plate on full. Alloy at 675-700. 94-3-3 alloy.
8. First couple of casts may be too warm. I discard the bullets. If I get a smear, I wipe the sprue plate and mold with a gloved finger (welding gloves)
9. For 4 cav molds, a 4 count. For 2 cav, as soon as the sprue sets.

sigshooter
02-24-2013, 08:21 PM
I just got my 452-200 yesterday, and was very impressed with the mold. This is my very first adventure into casting, although I have been threatening to start for years.

I just cleaned it up and started casting, as I had no idea what else to do with it.

The Penta-pins really hung on to the boolits, and I was wondering how to go about polishing them. I was worried about removing the coating on those pins.

IRON MIKE, I can polish the pins without any problem?

I did end up getting some really nice boolits out of the mold, but it took a lot longer due to trying to get them off the pins.

Now all I need is a 9mm HP mold and I will be all set.

Iron Mike Golf
02-25-2013, 02:30 PM
sigshooter,

Yes, you can smooth them. After a bit of pre-heating and casting, the white steel will blue up from heat.

dragon813gt
02-25-2013, 02:39 PM
I'm not following how if you unscrew the pins slightly they will run loose? The holes are already drilled and the clips act as a stop. Am I missing something? The pins on mine don't slide easily until the mold almost up to temp.

This is what I do for all my MP molds. I clean them thoroughly with 2+2. Then I heat cycle them in a toaster over at 450 degrees around three times. The blocks go in separated at they stay at that temp for an hour. Pull them out and let them air cool. Repeat a few more times. I don't know if this really does anything but I feel better doing it.

GaryN
02-25-2013, 06:23 PM
I had one that the pins were pretty tight. Even after several casting sessions. Miha keeps the tolerances very tight. Anyway, I ended up getting a drill and some 600 grit wet and dry and polished them up real good. It took off just enough to make it cast really smooth. Now it really casts good. I am always playing with my moulds to make them cast better. I haven't had to do too much with Mihec moulds. Try a lyman mould if you want to be frustrated.

MtGun44
02-25-2013, 11:24 PM
Unscrewing the pins slightly lets it align properly to the holes because they can slop a hair
in the threads. Polishing the nose of the pins can improve dropping, as can a touch of
bullplate lube.

Bill

trixter
02-26-2013, 02:10 PM
Picked up the mold at the Post Office, wasn't home when they came by. Opened the package and there they were. I got the round pins in to start with and installed the lee handles I opened and closed the mold several times. They do not seem to close all the way. There is still daylight at the bottom of the blocks. The pins do not seem to seat all the way into the slots. Will that change as the mold is heated? I hope so. I will try it tonight when I get home.

MiHec
02-26-2013, 03:52 PM
Picked up the mold at the Post Office, wasn't home when they came by. Opened the package and there they were. I got the round pins in to start with and installed the lee handles I opened and closed the mold several times. They do not seem to close all the way. There is still daylight at the bottom of the blocks. The pins do not seem to seat all the way into the slots. Will that change as the mold is heated? I hope so. I will try it tonight when I get home.


Pins will seat.....

Just preheat the mold and lube the leading pins and give the mold few dry runs....

Reload3006
02-26-2013, 03:56 PM
I have a copy of that same mold. You are absolutely going to love it.

trixter
02-26-2013, 03:57 PM
Thanks for the info. Great product and good customer service.

Thank you!!

Miata Mike
10-02-2014, 03:36 PM
I am going to bump this thread up instead of starting a new one. Figured out how to assemble all the pins, but I only got 6 c-clips for my 4 cavity mold. Should I have had 8 clips?

Also, if I am right handed, should the pins be on the left side and the sprue plate on the right?

trixter
10-02-2014, 05:13 PM
I am going to bump this thread up instead of starting a new one. Figured out how to assemble all the pins, but I only got 6 c-clips for my 4 cavity mold. Should I have had 8 clips?

Also, if I am right handed, should the pins be on the left side and the sprue plate on the right?

Go to your local hardware store, or R/C hobby shop to get clips.

dragon813gt
10-02-2014, 06:20 PM
I only put clips on the bottom row. The two closest to the sprue pivot pin on the top row will pop off during use. One clip for each pin is more then enough to hold everything together.

Beagle333
10-02-2014, 06:31 PM
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?81199-quot-E-quot-Clips-for-MiHec-Cramer-Style-moulds/page2

I only use them on bottom row of guide pins as well. But if you want a lifetime supply... see post #22 in link above.