H&R .32 Top Break Lever Spring

[frank83fire]

Howdy all...

I picked up an H&R top break revolver, .32 S&W, for cheap at a local sporting goods store. I THINK it is a 2nd Model, Large Frame Automatic, (auto-ejecting,) as it is unmarked other than the Harrington and Richardson and patent years on the top of the barrel.

The revolver was fairly cheap because the lever spring was missing and the guys at the store didn't want to mess with it. I'm thinking now they may have been wise; I've purchased a new lever and spring from Numrich Gun Parts, but have no idea how to bend it. The only search I found anything really helpful on turned up this old thread: (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?76463-H-amp-R-999-lever-spring-fix) This says to put a slight kink in the spring... Except I can't seem to get it to function properly unless I bend the spring almost 90 degrees so it pulls down on the lever and keeps it in the slot.

Anyone have any experience fitting these, and able to give me some advice?

[frank83fire]

Here are a couple of poor-quality photos, if that helps...6111361112

[I'll Make Mine]

You're referring to the cylinder hand (that pushes the cylinder around when you pull the trigger or cock the hammer) as the "lever"? We obviously can't see inside the lock in that revolver, but I'd expect that spring to be behind the hand, not between hand and recoil shield -- it should push the hand into the pawls, but allow it to ratchet on the return stroke. I could be all wet here; never had a H&R top break apart (only handled them a couple times in pawn shops), but what I describe matches the operation and layout of my High Standard Sentinel Deluxe and my Dan Wesson Model 15 -- pretty different guns except for the operation of the double action lockwork.

[frank83fire]

Yes; I'm sorry... I'm calling the hand a lever; I've seen both terms used and "lever" is what Numrich sells it as. I thought the spring should be behind it as well... but every single example of this I've seen has it in front. Seems almost counter-intuitive... The only way I see this setup working is if it pulls the hand forward and downward...

[KCSO]

All right the hand springs in those need to be hand fitted and usually thinned to work right. I usually save this job for days that have already gone sour as it seems anymore it takes two or more springs before I get it right. I will try and fid the assembly techniques in my encyclopedia.

[I'll Make Mine]

If that hand spring runs into the frame above the trigger, the right bend could have it pulling forward and a little down. I think as long as it pulls forward, the down won't matter much. I'd certainly wait for KCSO to come back, though -- that makes some of the stuff I install in power tools look like it jumps into place on its own...