best sharpener?

[45fan]

I see a lot about knives on this thread so I assume this is the right place to ask this question. Forgive me if this has been asked in the past I have looked back several pages to see if it has with no luck. What sharpener works the best for the money to sharpen mainly knives, I want a quality sharpener. If I can sharpen scissors and such as well that is a plus but not a necessity. Thanks all.

[mongoosesnipe]

I use the spyderco sharp maker and have yet to find something I can't sharpen well with it a lot of people swear by the lansky and it is also nice and very precise but its pretty slow and bulky

[winelover]

The "Aligner" by DMT

Winelover

[Chicken Thief]

For starters i use a Lansky set to get the knife edge set correctly.
http://lansky.com/index.php/precision-sharpening-kits/

When there just about any ceramic pocket sharpener will keep the edge sharp in the field.
http://lansky.com/index.php/products/quick-fix-pocket-sharpener/

[DeanWinchester]

The best knife sharpener I have ever used is "that guy" that sets up in the back corner of all the gun shows. Give him my knife and a 5'er and pick it up on my second pass through the show.
Easy, efficient, EXTREMELY keen edge.

[Sasquatch-1]

I use a piece of glass and emory cloth from 160 to 3000 grit depending how dull the blade is. Do a little searching on you tube and you should be able to find reference to the method.

[flounderman]

you can't beat the diamond imbedded sharpeners. Just a few strokes is all it takes. I use a leatherman tool with what I assume is a diamond hone and if I couldn't replace it, money wouldn't buy it. I think this is one of the originals because some of the later ones don't have this feature. any of the diamond imbedded hones will sharpen anything, fast.

[Bullshop]

Just a large dual grit wet stone.

[M-Tecs]

Not cheap but Wicked Edge http://wickededgeusa.com/ is outstanding. I have used most of the other sharpeners and most are very good. They will get you a good edge but if you goal is straight razor shaving sharp the Wicked Edge is the way to go.

[MBTcustom]

I used to make knives, and learned how to maintain consistent angles on both sides of the edge by feel using normal wet stones.
If the edge is really bad I start with a belt sander with around a 200-300 grit belt on it.
After that, I go to an orange and black, Norton two-tone India stone, but I never use the black side. I use dark cutting oil as a lube.
Next, I go to a Wa****a Arkansas stone and use baby oil as a lubricant.
Next I go to a translucent hard Arkansas stone (spoken of in hushed and reverent tones).
Finally, I finish with a soft, vegitible tanned leather strop, glued to a piece of marble, and impregnated with fine buffing compound.
This produces the finest edge on the planet, depending on the guy making the strokes.
Like C. I. Scofield, rightly dividing the truth, left from right LOL!

If I wanted a quick way to get a usable edge, and I did not have the training that I have, I would definitely go with a Lansky sharpening system, followed by a leather strop. Most folks would consider that "an amazing edge" that will shave hair.

[john hayslip]

There is an outfit called "Smith's" which I believe is in Arkansas that makes a yellow "butterfly - if you see one you'll know why I call it that" which has a 30 degree set of Tungsten pieces on one side and ceramic on the other. I've seen them here at Academy (sporting goods) wallyworld and local hardware stores. The sell for less than $6. They seem to work best for me if you hold the knife at a steep angle rather than horizontal. They will clean up a damaged edge if need be and put on a fairly good edge. If you use one get it on the edge of the table so you won't chip the table on the downstroke after you come through the sharpener. I then go to a "Warthog" which is a sharpener made in South Africa and sold here in local gunshows. The original ones are about $85 but I bought a less expensive one at the last gunshow of a new model at $45. They have diamond impregnated rods that are held under spring tension set 30 degrees to each other and all you have to do is draw the knife straight down. Both are really nice for people who don't really know how to sharpen. Fast and accurate edges. I'm always experimenting with ways to sharpen and this is what I like best now.

[joec]

It depends on what I'm sharpening. I use a Smith's two sided (course/fine) diamond stones on my hunting and pocket knives. Now my kitchen knives are rather expensive Japanese steel blades and for them I use Shapton Glass Stones in 200 grit up to 8000 grit followed by a 10K grit Japanese water stone with various strops some coated some not.

I never could get into the guide type or wire type sharpeners but then I've been sharping cutting tools for decades with no problems.

[smokeywolf]

Much like joec, I have expensive Case and Randall Made hunting/skinning knives and Japanese kitchen knives. Nothing does the job on the Japanese kitchen knives but diamond. I use a 10" DMT double sided. Followed by a Japanese water stone.
After 30+ years of free-hand sharpening drills, form tools, and even the occasional tap in the machine shop, can't see spending money on a angle guide for knife sharpening. That's not to say that I might not in the future, my hands are getting awfully shaky.

smokeywolf

[P.K.]

Just a large dual grit wet stone.

Yup, and for those "other" edges like axe's, hatchets etc. I have The Puck. Same as your run of the mill dual stone just the size of a cicular piece of hard rubber for ice borne winter sport.

[Pepe Ray]

The "best" tool is the one between your ears.
Everything is simple once you know how.
For day to day "touch up" I use the bottom of an old coffie mug.
Pepe Ray

[45fan]

Thanks for the input all. I have several ideas now and I am sure there will be more as well. With my ability I will probably go with something that will help me get the correct angle for sharpening.

[Chicken Thief]

It depends on what I'm sharpening. I use a Smith's two sided (course/fine) diamond stones on my hunting and pocket knives. Now my kitchen knives are rather expensive Japanese steel blades and for them I use Shapton Glass Stones in 200 grit up to 8000 grit followed by a 10K grit Japanese water stone with various strops some coated some not.

I never could get into the guide type or wire type sharpeners but then I've been sharping cutting tools for decades with no problems.
And smokeywolf:

A reply as usefull as a letterbox on a submarine!

Most of us live in a world where umpteen yrs of professional sharpening is but a dream.
So please give basic advise to us humans instead of your personal anal preferences?

Just go ask any butcher/chef if he sits down umpteen times a day with a gazillion grit wetstone to fine hone his knives?

[btroj]

I have never found it difficult to get a decent edge using a traditional water stone. I follow with a strop, works great.
I learned more about how to sharpen a knife froma wood carving class I took than anywhere else. Those guys are unreal when it comes to getting a tool sharp and they demand a good edge.

[smokeywolf]

Chicken Thief, your right about one thing, I am a bit "anal" about how sharp my knives and cutting tools are. That certainly does account for my stated choices on "What sharpener works the best for the money to sharpen mainly knives" which I believe is what the OP was asking for.

And, although I did get a good chuckle from the sarcasm you used to critique my reply. I didn't see anything in your post that could qualify as constructive or informational to the OP, the OP's topic or to the other participants in the thread.

Well timed and worded sarcasm does add to the entertainment value of a post (no sarcasm intended). I always welcome constructive criticism, as I see it and take it as advice. Criticism worded in such a way that its obvious intent is to damage the recipients credibility, offers nothing positive to the thread and is reminiscent of a ill-mannered child interrupting adults engaged in a conversation.

smokeywolf

[Norbrat]

I also have a Lansky sharpener set, but have not used it since I got a Nirey KE-198.

http://www.totalknifecare.com.au/why-nirey-sharpeners

A pass through this and a few swipes with a steel and it's good enough for what I need. I don't shave with my kitchen knives! :)

In the field, I touch up with a small diamond "steel".

[Ramar]

This one does it all. I don't have a dull knife in my collection. It came highly recommended by members here 2-3 months ago on a similar thread.
Ramar

http://www.worksharptools.com/sportsmans-knife-and-tool-sharpener/work-sharp-knife-and-tool-sharpener/flypage.pbv.tabs.tpl.html

[Marvin S]

I've tried several different gimmicks including the somewhat expensive lansky with no joy. I always return to good whet stones/oil stones. The big smith tri hone is good with a leather strop. The long twin crock sticks that are discontinued are very good also.

[wantoutofca]

If you have the cash a tormek sharpener is hard to beat. I paid for mine by sharpening for others.

[S. Galbraith]

I've always preferred flat bench type stones. It doesn't sharpen recurved or serrated blades too well, but as far as getting good aligned edges with the best geometry they are hard to beat. Try out a DMT duosharp or other diamond stone.

[Fishman]

I did the same thing as Ramar and bought this on the recommendations in a previous thread. I am perfectly competent in making a razor edge with water stones, using my Lansky, or using a small ceramic cross stick pocket sharpener for a touch up. Frankly this one looked a little gimmicky but I trusted my fellow booliteers and am glad I did. I sharpened every knife I could find (30, 40?, a bunch!) in no time. A working edge can be had on the dullest knife in 30 seconds. My wife was estatic. I highly recommend.



This one does it all. I don't have a dull knife in my collection. It came highly recommended by members here 2-3 months ago on a similar thread.
Ramar

http://www.worksharptools.com/sportsmans-knife-and-tool-sharpener/work-sharp-knife-and-tool-sharpener/flypage.pbv.tabs.tpl.html

[429421Cowboy]

I like my Lansky, it lets me put a perfect edge on new or abused knives, then a steel or stone depending on how dull i let them get is all it takes after that! I enjoy the edge i can get with a good heavy bench stone, but i still have to concentrate pretty hard to keep my angles, with the Lansky i can set a good angle first then do quicker touch ups on a stone.
I still want to try the method i read about on here a while back that uses wet sandpaper on my marble slab to get them scary sharp.

[Gelandangan]

Paper wheels, not easy to use, and downright dangerous if not used properly.
But gave best edge the quickest bar none..

Info can be found on web.

[PbHurler]

If you have the cash a tormek sharpener is hard to beat. I paid for mine by sharpening for others.

YEAH BUDDY! :drinks:

Expensive; but I've sharpened damned near everything in the house but the morning paper. Gouges, chisels, kitchen knives, hunting knives, hatchets, scissors etc..
You can setup the desired angle you grind with the included tool.

I looked at mine as a long term investment to avoid dealing with dull tools.

http://www.tormek.com/en/machines/t7/index.php

[felix]

My sharpening experience is nonsense, and deals with lawnmower blades. I got mad enough using these typical blades to apply carbide to the cutting edges and grinding that stuff sharp. The blacksmith told me the how-to process at his shop and I proceeded to do it even after his warning not to. Well, I found out within 10 minutes after the blade was put back on the mower. The blade hit a small unseen rock and guess what? A whole big chunk of blade broke off for the reasons explained by the smithy. Carbided blades are only for draglines, plows, road graders, and all things operating at comparatively ZERO speed, and NOTHING else. ... felix

[Ramar]

Thanks Felix

[dragon813gt]

I'm horrible with a stone. A lot of that has to do with impatience and needing it sharp right away. I run into this more with self feeding drill bits that I'm proficient at sharpening on the job with a file. They always seem to be dull when I need them.

I recently purchased a Gatco sharpening set. It works exactly like the Lansky. But you have more angle options. It's extremely easy to use and takes the skill out of sharpening a knife. All you have to do is follow the directions and you have a sharp knife in minutes. If all you're doing is touch up it takes seconds. I don't need my knives to be razor sharp. And I don't have the time to develop the skill to do it freehand on a stone.

[repawn]

I did the same thing as Ramar and bought this on the recommendations in a previous thread. I am perfectly competent in making a razor edge with water stones, using my Lansky, or using a small ceramic cross stick pocket sharpener for a touch up. Frankly this one looked a little gimmicky but I trusted my fellow booliteers and am glad I did. I sharpened every knife I could find (30, 40?, a bunch!) in no time. A working edge can be had on the dullest knife in 30 seconds. My wife was estatic. I highly recommend.

Plus one on this sharpener. I use it to sharpen all kitchen knives for my entire family. My personal knife I still use stones on - more to keep the practice than anything else. I paid 70 for the work sharp and it was worth every cent. Just works great and is super fast.

[StrawHat]

There are seven members of the knife sharpening guild I belong to. Six of them use the Tormek. Yes, it is expensive but they are good machines. I believe Jet is making a knock off.

[Firebricker]

The Spyderco sharp maker is the one thing I can use to get a good sharp knife. I've been using one for about fifteen years now and going strong. The Lansky is a good system I just never could get a super sharp edge with one but it's not the sharpener it's the user in my case. Fb

[MOcaster]

Tennessee Sticks. I don't think they are made anymore but can be found on evilbay. They are simple and easy to use. I won't use any other sharpener now.

[Moonie]

I had a Lansky many years ago but I got good enough with a tri-hone, steel and strop to put a shaving edge on anything I had. Then I purchased a knife made from D2, that thing is so hard I broke down and got another Lansky. I have a very sharp edge on it now, scary sharp, and it seems to be lasting for ever.

[winelover]

Lansky's are very good for what they are designed to do. I have one of the first, purchased at a gun show in Detroit in the late 70's. The down fall of their system is, that with repeated use the stones get a belly in them and loose their efficiency. The DMT version with the diamond stones address this issue.

Winelover

[LIMPINGJ]

For the Tormek owners, any recomendations for where to purchase?

[repawn]

For the Tormek owners, any recomendations for where to purchase?

Woodworking shows usually have decent sales on them - lee valley or peach tree woodworking have fair prices - Rockle and Woodcraft will be high unless you catch a sale.

[oldscool]

Do not let your knife get blunt dull, hit it with a steel every so often. I use several of my grandfathers knives, and his large steel to keep them cutting. I know most are at least 100yrs old. No I do not cut bolts and then slice a tomato, but I can hit any of them on the steel a few times and slice thin slices of any edible commodity with no problem.

[johnnybar]

As many have noted, angle is what it's all about when putting an edge on for certain purposes. The Lansky and Smith's angle systems are inexpensive ($30-$50) and allow a razor fine filet knife or a more durable edged work knife to be perfectly roughed in and finish honed in a couple minutes. I've had the Smith's EZ hone system for a few decades and it's foolproof. Their new version eliminates having to rotate the angle guide to each side of the blade, making it even more convenient.

[Griz44mag]

I opted for the Lansky 5 ceramic stone set. The guide keeps you on track for a consistent angle and the stones are very good quality. If you pay attention to the angles used for different tools and tacks, you can keep good edges on everything from tomahawks to straight razors with the kit. It's a big plus that the kit is not expensive and replacement stones are readily available and also inexpensive. For what replacement rods on one of the designer sets cost, you could buy a whole new kit from Lansky. And the knife doesn't know if it's been sharpened with a 250.00 kit or a 40.00 kit, it's just sharp.

[StrawHat]

For the Tormek owners, any recomendations for where to purchase?

Also, I believe JET is making a knock off of the Tormek for less money.

[PbHurler]

For the Tormek owners, any recomendations for where to purchase?

I purchased mine at Woodcraft. They had the full line of jigs, grading stones, compound etc. A search shows one in Dallas & one in Ft. Worth.

Here's a list of the Texas retailers, that the Tormek website says, carry their products:

http://www.tormek.com/en/distributors/us_retail.php

[Rick Hodges]

I believe the best edge for the price is a man who knows what he is doing with a good set of Arkansas Stones. That being said I use a Lansky system. I will touch up with a small diamond hone but about every three times is goes back on the Lansky to clean it up.

[country gent]

This was a skill we learned as kids my Dad and grandfather taught me and there was a section in our boy scout hand books. I have always used a whet stone ( weather arkansass or diamond have many of each) a piece of flat ground copper, I use a little fine polishing compound ( shimichrome, flitz, diamond paste) on then a leather strop. Normally a few passes on the strop tunes the edge right up. I bought 2 butchers steels at an auction saturday for in the kitchen. A few passes and a kitchen knife will fillet tomatoes like nothing else. Nice thing is the Butchers steels really dont remove metal just iron it back to where it needs to be. I have used the laskey and now there is a little belt sander with belts of diffrent grits and a guide to hold the angles out there. I still perfer hand honed and a strop. I still have a strop in my bathroom for the straight razor to.

[freebullet]

Standard gatco stone set with the addition of the fine diamond & fine ceramic. Razor sharp.

[Vindicated]

My favorite is the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker with the Ultra Fine diamond stone. Next up would be an Arkansas stone and soapy water.

[johnh57]

I use an Edge Pro Apex.

http://www.edgeproinc.com/cart.php?m=view_top_level_categories

[PTS]

I don’t really understand the theory of sharpening but I did inherit nice stones from my father and if I maintain consistent angle I get good results. I did inherit my fathers “strop” also, but I don’t know why, what, when, or how to use it. Same with a steel. I use it to take the “burrs” off, or at least I think thats what I’m doing. Any and all advice is appreciated.

[DougGuy]

OP asks what's the best sharpener for the money..

The small orange dbl sided "butterfly" made by Smith's = $4.00 at Lowe's stores. After using that one, I can safely throw away all the other pull-thru sharpeners except for the larger black long one also made by Smith's and sold at Target for about $19.

I picked up a "Frontier Forge" butcher knife for $5 at a flea market, Japan made in the early 1960s, steel so good it turned gray and never rusted even being out in the rain at the flea market. That thing nearly ripped the carbide out of a pull thru sharpener. It wouldn't hardly touch it. Lansky only for that blade. Damn that is some GOOD steel! It will carry that edge through 2-3 deer when the 440 stainless custom knives I own have dulled, it's still lethally sharp.

[jmort]

Don't know if was mentioned but Speed Sharp for $10.00 is the best for the $$$ and the best all around sharpener period. Last forever.
http://www.speedysharp.com/

[Texantothecore]

I see a lot about knives on this thread so I assume this is the right place to ask this question. Forgive me if this has been asked in the past I have looked back several pages to see if it has with no luck. What sharpener works the best for the money to sharpen mainly knives, I want a quality sharpener. If I can sharpen scissors and such as well that is a plus but not a necessity. Thanks all.

I don't know what brand it is but I use a diamond sharpener. No oil to carry around, just spit and it really works well. I normally sharpen to a smaller angle than usual and my knives are extremely sharp. I don't think the brand matters, mine comes in a wooden box and it is a flat piece of aluminum with diamonds embedded in it. Best sharpener I have ever had and it was not too expensive.

I think I got it at WalMart...

[Dutchninja]

Agree with johnh57, Edge Pro Apex. Check out Nutnfancy's review on Youtube for good info on it. After watching that video I was sold. It is expensive, but I don't regret it at all. I think i sharpened everything in the house when I first got it.

[georgerkahn]

I am admittedly near the bottom of good knife sharpeners. For ME, I learned to keep far, far away from any grindstones, belt sanders, or the like. A metallurgist colleague very clearly illustrated to me how very little heat it takes to remove the temper from your edge, and he professes using power one is actually fighting him/her-self. E.g., when you get the edge with these methods, the temper is gone... (Hey -- I'm sure other adroit folks can sharpen with a belt or wheel... I cannot!) At a gunshow I saw a fellow using/purveying a device made in South Africa called the WartHog Sharpener. His gimmick was to let person sit down with their knife; if happy, you buy the sharpener. If not, he gives you a $5.00 bill for your time. I bought the sharpener! It is used just for knives; for my axes, lawnmower blades, etc. I use mill bastard files followed by a "puck" (described in a post, above). Best wishes! geo

[Wally]

I do much the same.....kind of an art using whetstones and honing a blade to a sharp, polished edge. The leather strop, with a bit of jewelers rouge hones the edge to an optimal sharpness. Once one masters the art, there is no need for any other devices.

I have used a Chicago Cutlery very fine carborundum "steel" followed up by an ultra fine ceramic "steel"...you then use the leather strop with polishing compound....however when I do, I feel as I cheated. However, this method is faster....




I used to make knives, and learned how to maintain consistent angles on both sides of the edge by feel using normal wet stones.
If the edge is really bad I start with a belt sander with around a 200-300 grit belt on it.
After that, I go to an orange and black, Norton two-tone India stone, but I never use the black side. I use dark cutting oil as a lube.
Next, I go to a Wa****a Arkansas stone and use baby oil as a lubricant.
Next I go to a translucent hard Arkansas stone (spoken of in hushed and reverent tones).
Finally, I finish with a soft, vegitible tanned leather strop, glued to a piece of marble, and impregnated with fine buffing compound.
This produces the finest edge on the planet, depending on the guy making the strokes.
Like C. I. Scofield, rightly dividing the truth, left from right LOL!

If I wanted a quick way to get a usable edge, and I did not have the training that I have, I would definitely go with a Lansky sharpening system, followed by a leather strop. Most folks would consider that "an amazing edge" that will shave hair.

[doulos]

I have used and owned ,a Edge Pro, KME and Lansky rod sharpeners. I have also used and owned belt sanders, Work Sharps, paper wheels , japanese water stones,diamond stones. They all work. All have a learning curve. The shortest learning curve and most versatile is the Edge Pro. I think its superior to any clamp system for long blades like chef knives.. however for shorter blades a clamp system like a Wicked edge is just as good. They might even be superior for quick touch ups. I have a Edge Pro Professional that was very expensive because I do a lot of chef knives. I think the regular Edge Pro Apex is worth the money. You'll have it forever. That being said the greatest satisfaction Ive ever had sharpening is when I sharpened a dull knife to razor hair shaving sharp freehand on a waterstone. It just takes practice. Some guys are phenomenal with waters stones.

[KCSO]

For long tem use IF you can learn to use it and I you can take care of them Arkansas stones will be the best overall. I have a three stone set that is over 30 years old and still flat, and still sharpening perfectly. Mine are 10" stones as I have to sharpen longer blades on occassion and I sharpen my chisels with a guide.

[AlaskanGuy]

Well, call me old fashioned, but in my line of work, i need razor sharp knives, wether it is filleting salmon for paying customers, or stripping and repairing commercial gill nets...

I do it the old way, using a stone when necessary, and a steel... It is much like casting boolits or anything else, it is a learned skill... Yes there are shortcuts out there and most of them will do fine and make sharp knives, but just like making good boolits, if you invest the time and learn how to use a stone and a steel, you will never need any of those shortcuts again... I want to encourage to learn this skill... It really comes in handy and you will use it for the rest of your life.... There is a shortcut to learning though, and that is to take a magic marker and draw it down the edge of your knife, actually cutting the tip of the marker... This leaves a small mark on the edge of your knife... With that mark, you can practice the way you hold the knife and the angle at which you hold the knife... The proof that you are doing correctly will be easily verified buy close examination..

Learn this, and it will serve you for the rest of your life. I use a sharpening stone that has a course grit on one side, and a very fine grit on the other... And the stone will last you for years... I have been using the same stone for about 8 years, and durring the season, i sharpen knives sometimes a dozen times a day..

AG

[CastingFool]

I have always used a hand held stone, sometimes with water, sometimes dry. The stone will cut faster with water, as the water washes off the bits of metal the stone removes. If the knife is very dull, I start out with the coarse side, until I get an adequate bevel and the edge feels sharp, although rough (sawthoothed), then I switch over to the fine side, and continue the process. Maintain the same angle is key. If the angle is wide, it should hold the edge better, but it's harder to push through the mat'l you want to cut. If the angle is sharper, it will cut much easier , but typically won't hold the sharp edge as long. There is a recommended angle, but I can't remember. Sometimes, I follow all that with an India stone. It has a very fine grit, and hardly takes anything off the knife, but basically smooths out the "sawmarks" the other stones leave behind. (Sorta using coarse sandpaper, and progressively using finer and finer grit to achieve a smooth surface) You know you have a sharp knife when you cut yourself and you're not aware of it, until you see the blood running.

[bob208]

well being an independent sort and not having room to carry some one around to do it for me. I learned to do it myself. if the lade is real bad I start with some wet and dry sand paper on something flat. then go to a med. oil stone then a fine water stone then a steel then strop it on a pice of leather an old boot works nice. I get them shaving sharp that way.

[bstone5]

I purchased a Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener, not cheap but works very well.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200431964_200431964

[Jeff Michel]

Grizzly makes a Tormek knock off. I bought one and it works great. Mine was made in Germany.

[Chakta]

Well Guy's and Doll's, you may as well toss those other knife sharpener's into the trash can. No I am not drunk (don't drink alcohol) but I bet anyone hear, that you can have a dozen knives to sharpen and I'll be done with my dozen by the time you are on you 2nd knife. Now that is no mistake whatsoever, The WORK SHARP knive sharpener is the fastest and puts on a great long lasting edge. I have used lot of sharpener's in my day, going back to the early 50's and nothing I ever saw, especially in a small portable sharpener can come close to the ability of this WORK SHARP knife sharpener.

[Larry in MT]

I use a Harbor Freight 1"X30" belt sander (about $40). I've bought many of the different grits and finishing belts on line. Even bought a leather belt (not needed). I started by going to Salvation Army and getting used kitchen knives for 25 cents apiece to practice on. Learning to sharpen the point was the toughest (raising the knife as required). The belt sander (minus the platen) produces a convex edge that lasts a long time and is quite sharp.

I'm sure I've given away 100+ kitchen knives (my wife has drawers full) and I regularly sharpen for the neighbors. Kinda a hobby now.

If I'm just touching-up a relatively sharp knife, I use a cheapy crossed crock stick. I have the Spyderco sharpener which cost more than the belt sander but never did care for it.

[CWME]

Best powered systems for me is the Tormek, my custom paperwheel setup using the tormek jigs, and "the sharp Machine". The best portable, no power available setup for me is my Edge Pro Professional(think deer camp).
I sharpen for $ so I have different needs depending on what I am working on. My favorite is the sharp machine. It is a specialized 30" belt sander with guides and a slower belt speed than a normal setup etc. I can work a blunt knife to a keen edge in no time. I can also customize the edge by using different belts. For a mirror edge I can run down to 9 micron belts then switch to leather with decreasing micron polish. Adding the morror finish is another minute or two of work which is nice. I can also do swords on the machine if needed. I like the tormek for the plastic coated knives, no worries of too much heat either.

[bstarling]

I use a Harbor Freight 1"X30" belt sander (about $40). I've bought many of the different grits and finishing belts on line. Even bought a leather belt (not needed). I started by going to Salvation Army and getting used kitchen knives for 25 cents apiece to practice on. Learning to sharpen the point was the toughest (raising the knife as required). The belt sander (minus the platen) produces a convex edge that lasts a long time and is quite sharp.

I'm sure I've given away 100+ kitchen knives (my wife has drawers full) and I regularly sharpen for the neighbors. Kinda a hobby now.

If I'm just touching-up a relatively sharp knife, I use a cheapy crossed crock stick. I have the Spyderco sharpener which cost more than the belt sander but never did care for it.

I use the exact HF belt sander. It is cheap and works great. After a short learning curve it is very fast. I take the blade to a good leather strop and have a very sharp smooth edge. If I want to go to scary sharp, I'll take it from the belt sander to a fine Arkansas stone before the strop.

[yoter]

Another vote for decent dual grit wet stone. One size fits all.

[DCM]

I use the Lansky thing to get the correct angle when I cannot get my FIL to just do it right for me with a good ole stone.
Maybe one day we will both have the time and patience to learn me right. He just has the touch, I don't.

[William Yanda]

I use a piece of glass and emory cloth from 160 to 3000 grit depending how dull the blade is. Do a little searching on you tube and you should be able to find reference to the method.

Sounds like you're talking about "Scarey Sharp TM" or something like that.

[rollmyown]

I like the Spyderco Sharpmaker. On some knives you may have to reprofile the shoulder with a course stone or similar before you start. No guesswork, and good results every time.

[Groovy]

I also have the Spyderco Sharpmaker with the diamond sleeves to slide over the stones. Diamond sleeves will re profile any blade. The kit is over 10 years old and still works like new. The diamond sleeves are cleaned with a toothbrush and hot water and the stones can be put in the dishwasher.

[Changeling]

Just a large dual grit wet stone.

You know what you're talking about, once one learns how to sharpen on a wet stone, nothing is better! It doesn't cost a lot either. Mine is a 3" X 8", wet stone (uses water), love it!

In between major sharpening on a stone I use a Smith's sharpener that looks like one of those butane fire starters. You just hold the knife down and give it a couple swipes. It is for the kitchen knives only though.