My Lee molds keep wearing out

[chris in va]

Two so far, both with a few thousand cast. The interior steel alignment pin eventually 'smooshes' the corresponding aluminum cutout, causing bullet fins and all sorts of alignment issues. There's actually a raised ridge of aluminum around the trench, if that makes sense.

Lee said they'd replace for half cost if I sent it back. Hardly worth it cost-wise.

Any way to rehab these molds?

[theperfessor]

I don't know about rehab but you can prevent most of that type of wear by putting the bottom of the mold down on a flat surface and then closing it carefully. And lube the pins. If you don't bang them together while the halves are out of line it won't peen over the slot.

Careful peening of the damaged areas of the mold might help a little.

[imashooter2]

You need to be more careful closing them if you are killing the alignment feature after only a couple thousand cycles.

What happens if you place a flat plate on the raised edge and tap it back down?

Replacement might be a good option now that Lee has moved to a more traditional steel on steel alignment pin system.

[Larry Gibson]

Also beating on the sprue plate to cut the sprue with a stick, mallet, etc. can cause a lot of damage. Also knocking on the hinge bolt to make the bullets drop without the mould being fully open (I mean way open so they don't touch each other) can cause what you describe. I quit beating on the sprue plate many years ago (unless absolutely necessary if the mould is cold) and went to a heavy leather work glove on my right hand. I break open the sprue plate by hand. Haven't damaged a single mould (Lee or otherwise) since doing that.

Larry Gibson

[Recluse]

I made a custom sprue whacker and wrapped the whacker part of it with a strip of leather to cushion the impact. Sometimes I can thumb the sprue off, but when the arthritis is really bad, I prefer to use the whacker.

The other thing about this whacker is I made it semi-"square" specifically for the Lee molds so that I could rest them on it while closing them--so that they would align up without any undue or unnecessary pressure or banging or wear.

Seems to have worked as I've got tens of thousands of great boolits from these molds with zero signs of undue wear whatsoever.

The sprue-whacker is about as ugly as ugly gets, but it works!

:coffee:

[DrCaveman]

After realizing my first mold, lee 358 TL swc, didn't close square on its own, I started using my gloved left hand to held guide it true when closing. Hot, yes. Just don't take too long.

I beat the royal piss out of that thing while learning. 3000 or so boolits later, it may feel a little more sloppy, but using the same technique, the boolits come out the same.

If I were you I'd chalk it up to learning and re-buy the molds, since you'll prob get the new lee design. Better result than getting them replaced for half price plus shipping two ways. Unless the replacement set is new design... Then go for it.

[rexherring]

Just be careful and use small taps not whacks. I've got some OLD Lee molds that have cast thousands and no such problems.

[fcvan]

I have one Lee mold that I've cast about 500k with over 25 plus years. Eventually, the sprue plate screw stripped out. I re-drilled larger, replaced the screw with a slightly larger stainless bolt and am still casting with it. It was loaned to a buddy back in the 80s and he cast a 5 gallon bucket full of the 356-125 2R boolits, beating the heck out of the mold in the process. It still casts great boolits that drop .358 and weigh 126 grains with range scrap. It's all in how you use it.

I fill the mold, set it down, and fill a second mold, setting it down. I pick up the first and tap the sprue plate with a cushioned plastic handle (wrapped in duct tape) and invert the mold. If the boolits don't drop upon opening I tap on the hinge bolt of the mold handles. They pretty much drop free. While the mold is still inverted I close the mold halves until they make contact. I gently tap the hinge bolt as it closes then turn upright and close the sprue plate before filling again. My sprue plate screw is loose enough that the sprue plate closes freely.

When I cast, I use a Lee 10lb bottom pour. I direct the flow onto the sprue plate above and between the two holes so that the alloy flows into both cavities at the same time. The mold is held at a slight angle to direct the flow. It seems the weight of the alloy helps keep the sprue plate somewhat tight against the mold blocks and I don't get any excess alloy around the boolit base. I don't beat the heck out of my molds. When I say tap, try to think of a drum stick in a snare drum - hardly any force at all.

I lube to mold blocks on the alignment pins whenever the mold gets a little sticky on closing, probably every hour or so. The underside of the sprue plate gets lubed at about the same time. I haven't started using two stroke oil as my mold lube but I will next time I cast. You have to be careful to not get lube in the cavities. If you do it will have to be cleaned up. Every new Lee mold I've bought got scrubbed with hot soapy water and rinsed as hot as I could. I pre heat my molds by setting them on top of the pot. I made a cover for the pot from a tin can lid which gives me a good surface to place two molds on top while the melt comes up to temperature.

You might be able to fix the molds by de-burring the parts keeping it from closing properly. That's what I had to do with my mold that the buddy beat up way back when. The top is galled, the grooves are battered, and the pins fit into beat up recesses on the opposing mold half. After repair I have likely cast 480k boolits from that 'worn out' mold. My other molds don't look as bad as that first one. I just learned how to take care of it after seeng how badly it could be abused.

[44man]

I never wore a Lee mold or any other mold. Close gently.

[HATCH]

You need to buy a good lymqn steel mold and not look back.....
I almost trashed my first lee custom 6 cav mold when i was learning.

[David2011]

+1 for a good Lyman mold. A little of Bullshop's sprue lube makes the sprue plate easier to open with a gloved hand with any mold.

David

[mtgrs737]

Lube it good, close it carefully, cast with it for a lifetime.

[captaint]

I don't know, half the cost of a 2 cav mold isn't bad. Any luck and you'll get the new style pins. They look much better.

[.22-10-45]

Most of my moulds are iron Ideals/Lymans & customs. If you can hear even a tiny "click" when halves come together..it's too much. 1+ on flat plate when closing for alignment..and my sprue cutting is done with a leather gloved thumb.

[waksupi]

You are definitely not handling the molds correctly. I have Lee's over 35 years old that have cast thousands of boolits, and they still function just fine. Are you lubing the mold correctly?

[Muddydogs]

All my Lee 6 hole molds close a little different but after a cast or two I have the mold I am using down. When I close the 6 hole mold I use the sprue plate handle to push the blocks together so I can control the angle of the block. One mold closes smooth with a little up pressure on the handle while another closes best with a little down pressure. The first thing to do with a new Lee mold is check for closing and adjust the handle nut tightness which helps align the blocks. If handles are traded around then each time a handle is installed on a mold check to see if the handle nut needs adjusted.

[Ben]

I have many Lee molds that are over 30 yrs. old.

They all cast just fine................UUUmmmmm ? ? ?

Is it possible that we have some " Operator Error " here ?

[rintinglen]

Perhaps, but I will say that those soft aluminum molds that Lee makes need a gentler touch than Iron or steel molds do. I quit buying the Lee 2 cavity molds for exactly that reason, being a bit on the ham-handed side. That and the fact that the 6 bangers cost only a bit more and are much more durable, and cast 3 times as fast.:mrgreen:

[a.squibload]

They seem to align and close easier if I hold `em sideways.
In other words bring one half down onto the other.
Tiny bit of Bullplate helps.

[fredj338]

I'm not sure what people expect from Lee equip. It is made cheap, sold cheap & has a shorter life span than better made equip. I look at Lee as disposable reloading/casting gear. A higher quality iron, brass or alum mold will be more touble free over the long haul.

[jmort]

"I'm not sure what people expect from Lee equip. It is made cheap"

I expect more from our members. Gratituous, catagorical, bashing should be checked at the door. God Bless Lee Precision for doing right by its customers and for sponsering this site.

[fcvan]

Cheap? Inexpensive. Like I said in my earlier post I've cast over 500,000 boolits from a Lee 356-125 2R. I'm still casting with it but admittedly I eventually had to replace the sprue plate screw. No, I didn't shoot 500,000 boolits but I've cast them. I used to trade 500 sized/lubed boolits for a pound of powder or a thousand primers. I was casting on average 2000 boolits a week, trading 1000 away, and shooting the other 1000. The lead was free range scrap. If it were really 'cheap' I don't think it would hold up to that kind of use.

[jcameron996]

There is no doubt that the Lee molds are more cheaply built and not as durable as some of the other molds. To me this is a good thing because it allows more people to get into casting without breaking the bank. As for wearing one out, I kind of look at it like wearing out a gun. If I take proper care of it and get to use it enough to wear it out, then I will gladly buy another with a smile on my face.

[cbrick]

For reasons stated in the OP is why I always cringe when seeing a brand new caster buying an MP or NOE etc as his first mold. There is a learning curve to taking care of molds or any other tool. Even an iron mold can be ruined by improper use & care.

Rick

[btroj]

Lee is a perfect place for a beginner to learn. If you're going to destroy a mould thru poor technique let it be an inexpensive one.
Lee moulds should last many, many, many years. I cast many thousands thru some of mine with no real wear.

[Boerrancher]

I have cast hundreds of thousands of bullets over the years from Lee molds. My first Lee mold was given to me in the late 80's, and I used it casting hundreds of thousands of bullets. I would do at least a 3 lb coffee can a day. I traded those 45 cal boolits for everything shooting related. I finally gave the mold to a buddy of mine and the last I heard it was still going strong. As was said earlier, it is better to learn on a $20 mold and ruin it than on a $100 mold.

Best wishes,

Joe

[Ranch Dog]

Don't know about that. I have approximately 75 Lee molds, most are custom designs. The oldest molds have all dropped over 50K, some possibly 75K, bullets and are still going strong. I see no need to use anything else.

[Springfield0612]

I'm in the market for .45 acp 200 gr RN molds and 9mm 124 gr RN molds. I've looked at every possible webiste. I still can't get past the price point on Lee. Every single piece of reloading gear I've purchased in the last 4 years has been Lee and I am sure it will continue to stay that way. If you beat the heck out of anything it will eventually break.

[fredj338]

Not bashing just calling it like I see it. Political correctness should be checked at the door IMO. If more people called it like it is, mayeb the country wouldn't be where it's at. Thanks though, freedom of speach is still appreciated by many of us.

"I'm not sure what people expect from Lee equip. It is made cheap"

I expect more from our members. Gratituous, catagorical, bashing should be checked at the door. God Bless Lee Precision for doing right by its customers and for sponsering this site.

[mpmarty]

I think the problem with LEE is one of perception. Properly used as in RTFD will result in many happy years of use with the LEE molds. On the other hand they can be ruined quite easily by ham handed inexperienced you tube watchers.

[Bad Water Bill]

Many years ago I was told to use a wooden hammer handle on the sprue plate.

Well it never damaged a mould of any type BUT sure left a bunch of splinters all over.

One day I saw a rawhide mallet at TANDY LEATHER and have never looked back. That was about 30 years ago and the same mallet is still working fine.

[fredj338]

I think the problem with LEE is one of perception. Properly used as in RTFD will result in many happy years of use with the LEE molds. On the other hand they can be ruined quite easily by ham handed inexperienced you tube watchers.
Being "ham handed" really has nothing to do with quality. I've returned as many Lee 6cav molds as I own, 3. Many will not throw the same size bullet from each cav. The cheap spru cutters can & do break often, alignment pins & screws strip or come loose. The 2cav molds are even worse. Sure value, but not without issues. They will certainly work, but there are far better products out there. Some people are so sensative when people point out their stuff is cheap. No big deal, feelings shouldn't get hurt, facts are just facts.