Latest Ruger No 1 that will be a cast boolit gun

[Mr Humble]

What I'm saying is who would actually shoot a 10 pound 450 Nitro #2 (3 & 1/2") with the 600 grs Barnes Originals that came with it ?

Old fool sucked in by another Ruger No. 1 with wood no current one carries.

But will be fun with cast boolits and some 45-70 BP or smokeless loads.

Now wearing a NIB Unertl Hawk from my Unertl collection.

(was a 1976 458 WinMag converted by SSK)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/file_zps08737571.jpg
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/file_zpsaf960053.jpg
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/file_zpscd265f91.jpg

[375RUGER]

Nice furniture for sure.

[bigted]

im bettin that bugger will take a bit more then 70 grains bp. i have a 45-120 SS and it is a very large hoot with a 4 to 500 grain boolit... or... a patched boolit and 110 to 120 grains of bp.

cool aquasition...report your shooting fun and details with this beutifull rifle please.

[captaint]

Beautiful gun. Beautiful wood, really. Congrats. Mike

[pressonregardless]

Nice rifle, gorgeous furniture !!

[Lloyd Smale]

thats a beaut!! Even if i didnt want something that big i would have bought that one just to scarf the stock.

[nanuk]

is it just me, or does that scope resemble a scalpel about ready to surgically remove an eyeball?

sheesh, even on my 270, I have mine 3" more forward.

How would you load that thing?

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

WOW, what a butt stock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yep, good cast boolet gun.

As nanuk indicated, that scope looks a bit far back to me.

Now, beautiful as this rifle is, get rid of that ugly for end groove and replace it with a good hunk of ebony or contrasting an figured walnut.

Cut in tight behind the groove at a 45 degree angle and then install the new tip and your rifle will look like the true classic it is.

Been there and done that as I just don't do Alexander Henry forends! :groner:

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Mr Humble]

As for eye relief, here's my 300 H&H w/6X Leupold. Note relation of eyepiece on it and 450 to back of lever.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/tororeelmower18/e33d4c88.jpg

Besides which it will never see any loads that kick more than a 45-70. Never been bit and I wear glasses

As for AH forends, I like them and I have yet to see any classic rifle that did have horn or ebony ever installed any way but at 90 degrees. 45 degrees ? It a'int a Weatherby. You might want to look at Winfer's 6 volumes on British Single Shots and find one with a 45 degree horn or ebony tip. (Full disclosure a very close friend edited them and did much of the photography)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/tororeelmower18/93e71081.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/tororeelmower18/DSCN3292.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/tororeelmower18/f383bd45.jpg

Examples of proper ebony forend tips (the Ruger RSM's is a bit shorter than it should be)

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Well, Looked at the first #1 I had with the ugly forend groove, and it took awhile before I figured out how to solve, "the problem."

90 degree or 45 degree, the forend tip is a huge improvement to a bad situation.

However, with the 90 degree, it would shorten the forend too much, plus crowding or cutting back into the checkering which would mean a complete redo and change in the checkering pattern.

The 45 degree angle presents no such problems.

With this treatment, the rifle retains it's slender and light forend, which I personally like better then the #1"B" beaver tail style.

Being hung up on the 45 degree or 90 degree just because Weatherby used the 45, is about like my friend that hates any cartridge, no matter how good, if it has a belted case. :mrgreen::mrgreen: :kidding:

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Mr Humble]

Not hung up on 45 because of Weatherby. IMHO it's ugly. Try and find a classic English single shot with one. Lots had 90s lots had had AH fore ends. You really need to buy Winfer's books.

Agree the 1B is a pig. The 300 H&H was a 1B but I found the beautiful AH fore end on Ebay from Canada NIB.

I can't imagine that High Wall 300 flanged (last photo bottom) with a 45 degree tip. That would make Hillary look hot.

Your friend probably has a case of DNS about belted cases. See if he knows why H&H invented them......... (I know)

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

[smilie=1:[smilie=1: Oh my, I can see it all now, we will run on to 25 pages, 437 posts, about what is and what is not a "classic". :mrgreen::mrgreen:

Ctust Deary Ol'Coot

[Mr Humble]

Not really, there is no question of what a classic British single shot looks like. IF you has Winfer's books, you'ld stop trying to make a case for Holland and Hollands designed in South Beach. Let's us poor fools see a photo of the Bee-oot-ti-ful No.1 with the Weatherby fore end. It is certainly "one of a kind" !

Here's another British wanna be No. 1 in 458 WRA with a new barrel and all new, if a bit odd, wood. They did get the fore end tip correct !

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/tororeelmower18/5e529008.jpg

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Well ya know,

I simply am not trying to down play the quality of the 90 Degree cut for a forend tip. and every one I've done since the Herters build back in the 60s has been done that way except for these RUGERs with the ugly Alexander Henry forend..

However, there was simply no way to do that with the RUGER forend without a complete redo of the forend OR a new piece of wood.

Wasn't going to happen!

And in spite of all the books written and all the thousands of stocks tipped at a true 90degrees, my modified RUGER forends are no less classic and well done.

So clearly this is one place where we must agree to disagree.

To say that a rifle that is not tipped at 90degrees is not or cannot be a "classic" is no different then the person who says that a 300 Win Mag, or a 7mm Mag etc. etc, is not a good cartridge, simply because of the belt on the case.

Personal opinion, having little to do with reality. Does the cartridge perform or not. Is the tip well done and the finished product fitting to the application or not.

AS said, must agree to disagree as we both are dealing with personal opinion here.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

PS and I'd be glad to post images if I had a 4 year old to help me. Can send them by "E", but have never been able to get anything posted to a forum.

And just to clearify things, tipping the RUGERS in the only way possible without a complete redo was no attempt to copy Weatherby.

CDOC

[Don Purcell]

Has anyone ever seen a #1 rebarreled and chambered to .461 Gibbs?

[jimd46902]

Nce rifle!

[Mr Humble]

I am gonna be 71 in May and have been in the MacWorld since the Apple II days. Posting pictures is easy. Just go to www.photobucket.com and RTFI.
Digital cameras cost a lot less than an ugly Weatherby fore end tip, so I assume you can afford one. (If not Winfer's books).
Really would love to see it as it has to be a poster child for what not to do to a No. 1.
Really would look even better using Bakelite and some of those nifty white line spacers with the red lightening bolts in them and lets not forget a couple of orange and black 3x1 inch diamond inlays in the buttstock as well.

Model 70 Super Grade also done correctly:

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/tororeelmower18/270sg.jpg

two more correct No. 1s ........ 7x57 and 375 H&H.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/tororeelmower18/f68432fb.jpg

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Yep, nice rifles!!!!!

Send me a PM with your personal "E" address and I can get images sent your way.

I have a Nikon D200 digital SLR, so making the images is not an issue. Just how big do you want that fly?

But, as said, I need a 4 year old to help me with pooter stuff.

No matter what the directions I've rec'd or the links I've followed.

It likely has something to do with image size. And being an ol'burnt out professional photograper, I am about image quality like you are about forends and Weatherbys.

Just can't bring myself to lower my image quality/size to get it to post.

I'm sure there is a way, but as said, no 4 year old to help.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Ed in North Texas]

"That would make Hillary look hot."

Now that was downright uncalled for. Ugh, what a mental image!

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Billery or Polose make a ugo look hot!

CDOC

[GOPHER SLAYER]

I remember waiting anxiously for the Ruger #1 to hit the market. While I greatly admired the design of the action and buttstock, the forend was a disipointment. Forgive me for saying so but it remineded me of a certain part of the male anatomy. When Bill Ruger was asked about the forend he said it was copied from an old British or Maybe it was Scottish design, I don't remember. Wherever he found it, I wish he had left it. I have a #1 that came with that forend so I swapped it out for one off a #3. As soon as I can find someone close to carve the #3 forend it will have a snabble. I agree that an ebony forend tip looks great. I also like the snabble forend. I am attaching a picture of a Highwall that combines the two. The #1 that started this thred has the most beautiful wood I have ever seen on one.

[Mr Humble]

The Ruger No. 1 was modeled on a British design and Fine British Single Shots did not come with schnabels. Schnabel Forends are typical of German and Austrian rifles, where the forend tip flares out to an enlarged knob. Since Ruger was after replicating the British style he used and Alexander Henry style. Here's a "real one".
http://www.hallowellco.com/alex_henry_forend.htm

On to shooting the "monster". As all I have here is a 25 yard indoor range, I thought full house loads with 600 gr Barnes Originals might cause some distress. Digging back into history when people did odd and interesting things, I came up with a "gallery load", using a LP primer, 10 gr of TrailBoss, a lot of Ballistics products buffering/filler, a TC butter bore laminated wad and a Hornady .457 round ball lubed with Lee Alox.

Put up a politically incorrect target at 25 yards and sent 20 downrange off hand. (That Ruger "hangs" nice !) Oddly the scope I pulled from my Unertl collection was almost dead on, so no adjusting was done. The load was VERY quiet and if the POI matches up with a big game load, would be great for Blue Grouse when hiking the high country.

The round lead ingot (a SCUBA weight for my custom pack) was used as a seating tool. Start em' with you thumb, and a gentle tap pushed em' in as shown in the loaded round.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/file_zps47e8f126.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/file_zps22230251.jpg

[AkMike]

That #2 450 NE is a pussycat! But the 3 1/2" case makes it look like a monster. Look at Graeme Wrights book on Shooting British Double Rifles for loads. My #1 is rechambered for a 450 3 1/4" so It's very similar. Use 350 grn boolits in t for a plesant shooter. I use the same for plinking rounds in my double barreled singleshots.

[Mr Humble]

While it may be a pussycat in a double rifle or even and old single shot. In a No, 1, I'm sure it could be loaded to punishing levels (on both ends).
It is after all a 65,000 psi action but I'd worry more about the barrel thickness around that huge cartridge than anything else. Moot point for me as it will never see anything over 400 gr @2200 fps, and even that infrequently.

Speaking of No. 1s, does anyone know if those chambered for 9.3x74 and 470 Nitro used an extractor with the spring and plunger that pushes the extractor over to grab a rimless case ?

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Mr. Humble,

You might contact 9.3X62AL on this forum. He also shoots some #1 RUGERS, and may be able to answer your question.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Mr Humble]

Well after lots of "messin aboot", I figured out the ejection problem. Picked up 2 416 Rigby No 1 ejectors and stoned one until it worked just like the modified 458 one that came in the rifle, albeit with a larger hook. Here is the story:


Okay, figgered it out. Started with a fresh 416 rigby ejector and stoned it until it worked exactly like the 458 (modified) that came with the rifle.

Turns out the real problem is not the rim DIAMETER but the rim THICKNESS.

There appears to be no factory chambering in a No. 1 where the rim is a thick as the 450 Nitro #2 3 & 1/2". So the Ruger is set up to push the ejector far enough forward to engage any factory chambered rimless or rimmed cartridge. The ejector cut in the barrel is deep enough, as after the roller pushes the ejector up next to the rim (as far as it can) you can push ejector "home" with a skinny punch.

Therefore the REAL problem is the front to rear dimension of the ejector arm, as the roller cannot push it far enough forward.

If I were home with all my tools, I would drill and tap the roller side of the arm and put in a small allen screw. I'd adjust that until roller seated the ejector "home" and red locktite it in place.

For now, I have backed the ejector tension screw all the way out, so that the load/unload is like a traditional Winchester High Wall. You push the cartridge in with your thumb and it pushes the ejector (which is now just an extractor) home. When you drop the block, the "extractor" pulls the case out about 3/4" which allows you to dump it or hook it out with a fingernail.

Welcome back to 1885 !:2_high5:

[Mr Humble]

Final fix it DONE !. Got two 45-70 ejectors from Ruger. Installed one dropped in a case for a "try fit" to see what modification would be needed. Lifted the lever and she closed right up with the ejector UNDER the rim. WOW ! Cranked up the ejector tension screw to a 2/3rds normal setting and repeated.
Lifted the lever and, it was a bit stiffer but again, closed up with the ejector under the rim. Dropped the hammer, then the lever and "kaching" out popped the case into the loading trough. I could set it "harder" to eject the shell from the rifle, but then I'd have to pick it up off the ground.
Took her to the range and fired 10 of my roundball gallery loads at 25 yards. five off hand five off a front rest. Off hand 1.5", off rest one ragged hole that a Quarter would cover. Frankly I am amazed how easy the fix was and how well a .457 roundball shoots in a rifle with a twist way too fast for a ball.

Next, I'm gonna try two balls in the same case just to see what happens.

Just scored another African in 458 WinMag. Although it is a "black pad" it has fantastic fiddleback end to end on both sides. Of course it has the typical (current) crappy Ruger sprayed on finish with all the pores open but I know how to fix that.

375 H&H African I redid 2 years ago:

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/tororeelmower18/2ebe3fd9.jpg (http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/rocketcity1/media/tororeelmower18/2ebe3fd9.jpg.html)


http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/tororeelmower18/04faef6f.jpg (http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/rocketcity1/media/tororeelmower18/04faef6f.jpg.html)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z377/rocketcity1/tororeelmower18/bff56c89.jpg (http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/rocketcity1/media/tororeelmower18/bff56c89.jpg.html)

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

great!

[Mr Humble]

Now I have moved up to THREE Lee Alox lubed roundballs with 8 gr unique, enough coarse Cuban corn meal to bring the third ball 1/2 way out the neck. The three ball load groups about 4" at 25 yards. Would make the Tarus Judge look like a pop gun.

[kens]

If you got a No. 1H Tropical, you can load a Lyman .375449 nicely.
Nowadays the .300 AAC Blackout is the new most modern tactical round. Take a .375 H&H, with about 20gr Re7, topped with a 375449, and you can deliver all that 300 Blackout, plus another 100 yards.

[Mr Humble]

Take a look at my "new 450/400" that shoots cast boolits in very small holes.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?253494-450-400-%28400-JEFFERY%29-Ruger-No-1-with-large-cast-boolits