BFR Precision Center - is it worth the price difference over the production model?

[mihaun]

I'd like to solicit the opinion of experienced BFR owners and see if the precision center model is a valid buy.

What would I really get for a 350$ price difference (if ordered from factory) compared to production model? I've read what's offered in Precision Center but would I see any differences in real world use?
I have my eye on 500 JRH with 5.5" barrel so there would be no any gain in terms of caliber and barrel length.
I'm an overseas buyer so in most cases wouldn't be able to buy the production model of gunbroker or similar online sales or auctions to capitalize on lower than factory prices.
I've read on the net that sometimes BFR 500JRH comes with the longer than specified barrel (which I don't care for) so to circumvent this would be to have it done in precision center. But if I then ask for a grip reshape (according to Whitworth "the best thing you can do to improve BFR") and lets say an extra cylinder in 50AE and/or 500WE and I'm in price range for FA M83 premier grade.

So once again is it worth it?

Any advice is welcome!!!

Thanks

P.S. the heaviest I've tried so far was 44mag 320gr at mid 1300fps in 5.5" redhawk... :-?

[44man]

I would say they are better fit and the trigger on mine is perfect. It is the way to go if you want a different length barrel but the production model is as good and as accurate.
Forget the extra cylinders, you might never use them once you shoot the JRH.
I like the standard grip and the gun is easy to shoot. I have a 7-1/2" barrel and love it. The 5.5" would be good.
I have 3 BFR's and every one has done 1" and every now and then down to 1/2" at 100 yards with an Ultra Dot that I hunt with. Two are production models, JRH is custom shop for the longer barrel.
All of my friends own BFR's and all have perfect dimensions, barrels and cylinders. All shoot perfect.
I would say the JRH is the very best of all the .500's.

[odis]

I have a precision center BFR and am quite happy with it but I also had no other choice because mine is in 45colt. very tight cylinder gap and the chambers are very tight. The crown is different than the factory offering. I've never fired a factory one so I can't compare.

[mihaun]

Thank you for the responses.
I guess than I could go the production model way as the preferred barrel length and caliber combination is available. As I understand the production model measures the barrels from the frame so I'd get a bit longer than 5.5". Does anybody know how long is that barrel measured from the forcing cone?
I'd still opt for the extra 50AE cylinder (500WE is still a reload only affair as far as I can tell) as I'd like to have the option of some kind of factory ammo. Is there any factory ammo around for 500JRH?

As for why I chose 500JRH:
-it had to be a half inch hole, .475 simply wouldn't do 8-)
-it is available in reasonably priced production boomer

I'm sure that other popular half inch calibers (500 Linebaugh & 500WE) are ballisticaly quite similar if not identical (yes, 500 Linebaugh is .51...) and whatever I'd put the sights on wouldn't notice much of the difference.
500 S&W is just too big for my taste :takinWiz:

[44man]

I used a ruler and it is roughly 5/8" to the edge of the cone. I kind of like the way they measure, never considered the cone as barrel length anyway.
There are several makers that make factory loads, I think Double Tap is one.
Those other .50's have their own problems, made for autos or with belts and that strange .510 size.
The JRH is easy to load for, deadly accurate and the Lee .501 boolit will shoot good.
I did make my own mold and with WW metal it costs me a dime a shot.
I use Hornady dies but with the large cases you need to watch case lubes. Anything with lanolin is best and I use pure lanolin.
As for the BFR in .475---YOU NEED ONE TOO! It is an amazing gun and caliber.

[Any Cal.]

Ooooh, never knew those existed. I played w/ a buddies in 45/70, but it was too big for my taste. A smaller frame for shorter rounds and shorter bbl would be great.

[snowwolfe]

I've never seen a revolver from the BFR Precision Center but I do own a "standard" BFR in 500 JRH. I found mine to be a handful to shoot with the standard grip so sent it to Jack Huntington to have him reshape it. Best $300 I've ever spent as he also rounds off the sharp edges so you don't cut your hands and installs custom fitted grips.

I can understand you wanting a PC version as they should be fit to tighter tolerances and have a better trigger job direct from the factory. In fact, if you can't decide between which version to buy and the cash is not that hard to come by then by all means order the PC version because if nothing else you will most likely wished you did after buying it. Ordering the PC version usually means paying full retail. Then if you get the grip modified you are getting really close to a Freedom Arms field grade ( just tossing that out).

Good luck with your decision.

[44man]

I love the factory grips because of my hands but Jack makes a thick grip that feels good. I never shot it though.
I found the JRH has less barrel rise and torque then the .475. I seem to grab the JRH more when I want to shoot.
The difference I have seen between the PC version is just a tad less side play in the cylinder and I did not need to do the trigger. Cylinder play is perfect. Internal dimensions are the same as far as the throats and barrel. I did install a Wolff extra power 26# hammer spring.
The twist of 1 in 15" will handle a pile of boolits and the cylinder length is no concern.
I would forget the other funny .500's for extra cylinders, they are not worth fooling with.
I made a 440 gr boolit mold and just working a few loads I shot this at 50 yards and the gun has done 1/2" at 100 yards. I shot a deer off hand at 120 yards this last season.

[44man]

I did not have my Ultra Dot yet and put my old scope on the gun. I set 5 shotgun shells on their sides at 50 yards and shot all 5 in the base with 5 shots, that is a 3/4" target. I lost a few in the weeds.
Why would you need anything else?

[mihaun]

Thanks for the plethora of information. Looks like the production BFR would be all I need, juts hope the grip would fit me... That one I wouldn't know until I try. I'd love the .475 Linebaugh as well as 45 Colt, but the problem is that whatever you guys pay for it it would cost me twice as much due to import tax. So I'm opting for one boomer and looks like the BFR 500 JRH is it.

44man that's some seriously nice shooting, I hope I'll get to half of your level.
As for factory ammo, I've perused the net and couldn't find any. Just the info the JRH has some for sale. I'd still like the second cylinder in 50AE but could live without it.

44man do you have any light loads you can recommend and share? As mentioned earlier I've only shot one cylinder of heavy 44mag and found it handful (320gr at mid 1300fps). So I'd like to start with light loads and work my way up.

[44man]

I never worked any light loads for it. I just shoot my hunting loads all year. Most of my shooting is 100 yards and I hate to mess with the accuracy.

[mihaun]

I never worked any light loads for it. I just shoot my hunting loads all year. Most of my shooting is 100 yards and I hate to mess with the accuracy.

What are your hunting loads?

[44man]

I am curious about BFR barrels....What is the rifling's Land/Groove depth?
I did not measure lands on the .500 but groove is .500".
I did measure the .475 and groove is .475", lands are .465". That makes lands .005" deep.
Rifling is cut, not broached and is hand lapped.
Barrels are 416-R stainless made by Badger and the cylinders are 17.4 PH.

[44man]

What are your hunting loads?
I use my 440 gr PB boolit that I made the mold for. 29.5 gr of 296 and the Fed 155 primer. 1350 fps. I size .501". I use Felix lube.
The Lee 400 gr also shoots good with the same load. I use mostly water dropped WW metal but I tried 75-25 the other day and my best was only 3" at 100 yards.
I feel there is no sense shooting so much lead with light loads that are not as accurate since cost for a heavy load is just a dime.

[44man]

I think that is part of why you are able to wring out such good accuracy.

Do you think lands that are .0025"(common on barrels from Miroku, and other button rifled) would shoot as good?
I have always believed cast needs deeper rifling then jacketed.