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foxtrapper
01-15-2013, 07:01 PM
What are they for? I see that the stems that are attached to the hollow point pins can be detached ,what would be reason for that. Anybody out there to walk me through that pin installment and the cleaning of the mold before the first use? Thanks in advance:-D

runfiverun
01-15-2013, 08:58 PM
it's so the pins don't fall on the floor.

tward
01-15-2013, 09:07 PM
The e clips are to assure retention of the HP pins. With my mold I lubed the pin guides, alignment pins and the mold top and sprue plate. Used bull plate. My 4cavity needs good preheating and likes lots of heat. Good luck with your mold, they are jewels! Tim
P.S. 1+ on above, also scrubbed mold with a soft toothbrush and dawn dish detergent

saint_iverson
01-15-2013, 09:23 PM
Take em out and try casting ...

Hint though, you can flip those hp pins and make a solid boolit, like 2 molds in one. But ill let you figure out how! :drinks:

Iron Mike Golf
01-15-2013, 11:38 PM
I only use 1 per HP. I put them on the lower guide pin. I used to lube them with dry graphite, but now I just keep them barely finger tight. They fall back into place by their own weight.

rockydoc
05-02-2015, 12:17 PM
There has got to be an easier way to install those "E" clips onto the guide pins. Please tell me what it is. I have tried my fingers; didn't work at all. I used a surgical needle holder(much like a hemostat but without the aggressive teeth), this worked but was not easy.
Is there a special tool to do that? Maybe at Harbor Freight?
Rockydoc

dkf
05-02-2015, 12:27 PM
I use a small needle nose pliers to snap the e-clips in place. On jaw on the shaft one on the e-clip and squeeze. Goes quick that way. A thick flat piece of hard plastic works too to snap them into place.

Similar to this. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-5-in-flat-nose-pliers/p-00945668000P?prdNo=29&blockNo=29&blockType=G29

Moonie
05-05-2015, 09:26 PM
needle nose pliers here too

MBTcustom
05-05-2015, 10:21 PM
If you use some parallel jaw pliers of good quality, it's a snap (pun intended).

However, if you just go buy some small vice grips, clamp them shut, and grind the tips of the jaws precisely flat, you can grip the E clip by the back right behind that middle protrusion, and just push it in place easy as you please. Taking them off is easy this way too.

Russel Nash
05-06-2015, 06:44 AM
I am glad this thread came along. I just got 4 of the MiHec moulds delivered like a week ago. I also picked up the Lee six cavity mould handles from my gun club.

Do you guys put anti-seize on any of the threads?

I keep hearing that the MiHec moulds like a lot of preheat first. I used to gingerly balance my steel/iron moulds into the top of the pot so the corner of the mould was dipped into the molten lead. They might have sat there like that for 5 minutes.

Is this okay to do with the brass MiHec moulds?

Oreo
05-06-2015, 07:06 AM
I wouldn't dip any mold into the lead. I think the rapid uneven application of high heat is one of the few ways that might actually warp a mold. A hot plate is best imo.

I do put a tiny dab of high temp anti-seize on the threads ofvthe locating pins of all my MP molds. Emphasis on *tiny*. I try to coat the threads but I don't want that stuff migrating anywhere else so I'm real careful about it. I also leave those pins threaded just a tad loose so they wobble enough to slide freely in the mold block.

dragon813gt
05-06-2015, 07:16 AM
Needle nose pliers is all you need to install the clips. I use a standard size set of Kleins but any of them should do. I don't let them touch the guide rod. Just push the clips straight on w/ the pliers.

FLYCUTTER
05-09-2015, 10:28 AM
No tools needed. Hold the e clip facing up on a hard surface, place the slotted part of the pin in the clip and push down. It will click in, - done. If you need more 3.2 mm clips Fastener Mart has the 50 for $1.17

Oreo
05-09-2015, 08:42 PM
That's good info FLYCUTTER, thank-you.