Time to wire up my pot...

[chrisw]

I got one of these lee bottom pour (drip?) pots, the 220 one with no plug?

I'm lucky enough to have a big ole main panel in the garage that already has a 220v outlet. The only problem is its 50a for a welder/air compressor.

I know the answer I think... I need to run a new circuit don't I?

220A 700watt... 5amp min. So a 15 amp would be right wouldn't it?

thanks in advance!

Chris

[felix]

I had to install separate panels, in addition to the "main" panel, to get enough juice (amps/volts) needed in the house. I even have 3-phase paneled-up and ready to go. Advice is supply the house/barn with separate panels (wired directly from the power company's transformer) having their own master slam-bang handles for power on-off. ... felix

[chrisw]

LMAO, I'd love a 3 phase! I'm actually a bit confused about my wiring- I think I've actually got 3 mains, the old old one in the house, another in the crawl space for HVAC/hot water, and a 3rd in the garage.

so, luckily this JUST will be a new circuit, not a new panel, lots of space and extremely under-subscribed 250a in the garage.

Chris

[midnight]

I am in the process of getting 230V 3 phase power to a hydraulic swaging press I just aquired. Most residential applications don't have 3 phase available so I got a 5hp rotary converter to generate 230V 3 phase from 230V single phase. The cheapest way to set it up, providing the amps are ok, is to run a line from the clothes drier outlet, through an "either or" type switch to power the converter. That way either the drier or the converter are powered but never both at the same time. My electrician suggested it so it should be a safe way to do it.

Bob

[chrisw]

:-)

to get back to the simpler question-

Would a 15 amp 220 volt circuit be appropriate for the 700 watt lee pro pot 4 20lbs? And much safer than plugging it into a 220v 50a circuit?

and since I've thought about it longer GFI would be good too... Molten metal is more conductive than water!

[Spawn-Inc]

Yes 15 amp will work. So will the 50a you just would have to hit 50a+ for it to trip.

[454PB]

Yes, 15 amps is plenty.

The existing 50 amp breaker is not in danger, but the pot is. In the case of a fault, the pot and/or it's wiring will be damaged before the 50 amp breaker trips.

I NEVER walk away from a lead pot while it's plugged in, so I wouldn't have a problem with hooking that 240 volt pot to a 50 amp breaker......but it is potentially dangerous.

[I'll Make Mine]

I'd suggest buying a GFCI breaker to go in your panel, rather than a plain one. The price difference is fairly small ($5 or $10 more for the GFCI/breaker combination than for the plain breaker), and the increase in safety is pretty large; the GFCI will interrupt the current to the pot receptacle in under 1/60 second if the two legs mismatch by as much as (IIRC) 20 milliamps.

BTW, most places you'll need to have the new circuit inspected by someone licensed to do so before you can legally connect it at the box, so check on code requirements (wire sizes, conduit standards, etc.) and do the job right...

[chrisw]

GFCI... Its a hard habit to break to stop calling um GFI's but yup, I agree.

[I'll Make Mine]

Another option that would let you use the existing 50A circuit (though upgrading the breaker to GFCI would still be a good idea) would be to wire a smaller value fuse holder into the pot's cord; you can buy inline holders for the little glass "cartridge" fuses for a few dollars, and the fuses come in values ranging from tens of milliamps up to 10 or 20 amps (with 250V or higher isolation ratings). A 5A (or 7A to prevent blowing during the startup draw, which is usually higher before the element heats) inline fuse would protect the pot and its environment from overloads that could potentially start a fire even on a 15A breaker.

[Spawn-Inc]

Another option that would let you use the existing 50A circuit (though upgrading the breaker to GFCI would still be a good idea) would be to wire a smaller value fuse holder into the pot's cord; you can buy inline holders for the little glass "cartridge" fuses for a few dollars, and the fuses come in values ranging from tens of milliamps up to 10 or 20 amps (with 250V or higher isolation ratings). A 5A (or 7A to prevent blowing during the startup draw, which is usually higher before the element heats) inline fuse would protect the pot and its environment from overloads that could potentially start a fire even on a 15A breaker.

+1 to that.