7.5 MAS Berdan Primer Size

[Ed in North Texas]

Does anyone know the proper size Berdan primer for the French 7.5 MAS brass? Size would be very helpful, if known. Source for the right size primer would be even better.

TIA

Ed

Another thought just occurred to me - the .217 LR Berdan primer is larger than a Boxer LR. I believe shellholders have to be drilled to fit the larger primer diameter. Lee Autoprime shellholders might be soft enough to drill easily, but will the Autoprime tool handle the larger primer size without a problem once the shellholder is fixed? Anyone know the answer to that question?

Ed

[Ed in North Texas]

Answering my own question (some kind soul in Larry Gibson's thread on converting to Boxer listed the size so I had a starting point). For anyone else, the size is the "standard" .217 (Tula - KV762N) for all the standard European military cartridges, and .217 (Tula - KVB7) for the 7.62x39mm - a shallower primer than the larger case primers.

DAG Ammo has both .217 sizes in stock in lots of 5K.

http://www.dagammo.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=47

And Larry Gibson's thread on conversion to Boxer primers just popped up, so we have a couple of options now.

Ed

[3006guns]

I wish I'd have seen this thread a few days ago..........:)

I have a quantity of 7.5 French surplus ammo with "intermittant" primers (old), probably 500 rounds or so with nice brass cases. When the Tula primers became available again I jumped and ordered 2000 of the KV762N for this ammo and some other European stuff I have.

To familiarize myself with the procedure, I pulled the bullet and dumped the powder from one round then popped the primer in my MAS. I then machined a bolt to a close sliding fit in the case neck, filled the case with water and proceeded to deprime via the hydraulic method. After two attempts and getting myself soaking wet the primer was still firmly in place. Okay wise guy........I've got just the cure for you.

I used a Lachmiller berdan primer removing tool and had a MISERABLE time getting that thing out......three attempts before it popped out, and I know how to use the tool. Close examination revealed that the primers were crimped with a ring style crimp that isn't obvious at first glance. This means I have over 500 rounds of this stuff that will be a miserable fight to deprime, plus I'll have to use a .216 reamer on each case to remove the crimp....but the brass is worth it. On this one lone case I managed to remove the crimp with an RCBS chamfer tool and seat the Tula primer easily.

The point of this post? Be prepared for an unexpected surprise :mrgreen:!

[Ed in North Texas]

I wish I'd have seen this thread a few days ago..........:)

I have a quantity of 7.5 French surplus ammo with "intermittant" primers (old), probably 500 rounds or so with nice brass cases. When the Tula primers became available again I jumped and ordered 2000 of the KV762N for this ammo and some other European stuff I have.

To familiarize myself with the procedure, I pulled the bullet and dumped the powder from one round then popped the primer in my MAS. I then machined a bolt to a close sliding fit in the case neck, filled the case with water and proceeded to deprime via the hydraulic method. After two attempts and getting myself soaking wet the primer was still firmly in place. Okay wise guy........I've got just the cure for you.

I used a Lachmiller berdan primer removing tool and had a MISERABLE time getting that thing out......three attempts before it popped out, and I know how to use the tool. Close examination revealed that the primers were crimped with a ring style crimp that isn't obvious at first glance. This means I have over 500 rounds of this stuff that will be a miserable fight to deprime, plus I'll have to use a .216 reamer on each case to remove the crimp....but the brass is worth it. On this one lone case I managed to remove the crimp with an RCBS chamfer tool and seat the Tula primer easily.

The point of this post? Be prepared for an unexpected surprise :mrgreen:!

Or get a bigger hammer? [smilie=1:

Seriously, everything I've read suggests that the RCBS/Lachmiller type decappers don't work very well with the crimped primers. The recommendations are for the hydraulic method, but using a setup which supports the case body pretty well so that real pressure can be brought to bear on the primer without damage to the case body. I'll find out on the MAS brass, but I was prepared for removing the crimp (too bad RCBS doesn't make a swage spud for the Berdan .217 primer brass - if I had a full machine shop I think I'd try to make one and see if it worked out).

Ed

A couple of additional thoughts occurred to me.

1. One of the hydraulic decapping items I read stated that it is desirable to use the most solid surface possible for decapping. I planned on using my 60 lb anvil.

2. I might have a hole bit which matches the ring crimp on the MAS brass. If I have to, I'll see if this doesn't relieve the crimp enough to make primer removal easier.

[n.h.schmidt]

Hi
I have been working with this for a couple of years now. I use only water for decapping berdan primers. My setup involves a 7/8" steel tube with a solid bottom except for a .270 hole drilled through it.
the tube is drilled to a 1/2" id. Reamed or just drilled works either way. The plunger is made from a grade three bolt 1/2" with O rings on it. You put the case into the tube, dunk the tube in a bucket of water and place the plunger in the top while under water. That insures no air bubbles. Remove from the water and hit with a heavy hammer. A very solid surface to do this on helps with the effect. The entire case is pressurized except for the primer . No case distortion at all. This doesn't sound like it can work but, it works very well.
On decapping very stubborn primers. Turk 8mm being very hard to remove especially. There is something you can do. Get out your regular primer seating setup and seat the fired primers deeper. This brakes them loose and they come out better. Even better is to seat them deeper at a angle. This takes a special made part .
Once the cases are decapped the first time ,they will not be so much trouble.
n.h.schmidt

[Ed in North Texas]

n.h.schmidt wrote: "On decapping very stubborn primers. Turk 8mm being very hard to remove especially. There is something you can do. Get out your regular primer seating setup and seat the fired primers deeper. This brakes them loose and they come out better. Even better is to seat them deeper at a angle. This takes a special made part."

Thanks for the tip, that does seem like it would make the job easier. And I have a pile of the Turk 8mm. I have to admit that, having more honey do's than time, I just broke down and bought a setup for hydraulic decapping. When it arrives I'll see how it, plus my anvil and heavy hammer, works. I usually prime with a hand primer (Lee or Hornady for calibers which Lee doesn't supply shell holders, like .50-70). I may have to dig out a large primer set for a press (If I can find it), or the hand primer might do the trick, I'll find out.

[rexherring]

I just skipped the military brass and fire formed commercial 6.5 X 55 brass for mine.

[Ed in North Texas]

I just skipped the military brass and fire formed commercial 6.5 X 55 brass for mine.

At the time I bought my rifles, the recommendation I read was to use the Lapua or Norma bra$$ for forming to 7.5x54 MAS. The MilSurp was dirt cheap, and came in .50 cal size ammo cans. So I have a pile of Berdan brass and I'd rather reload it than scrap it. Your way is easier, but where's the challenge*. :bigsmyl2:

Ed

* As if I needed another challenge.

[rexherring]

At the time I bought my rifles, the recommendation I read was to use the Lapua or Norma bra$$ for forming to 7.5x54 MAS. The MilSurp was dirt cheap, and came in .50 cal size ammo cans. So I have a pile of Berdan brass and I'd rather reload it than scrap it. Your way is easier, but where's the challenge*. :bigsmyl2:

Ed

* As if I needed another challenge.

Totally understand that. When I bought mine, nobody had 7.5 ammo here or anywhere in the state. But, I did find a lot of once fired 6.5 brass at a gun shop cheap.

[Ed in North Texas]

Totally understand that. When I bought mine, nobody had 7.5 ammo here or anywhere in the state. But, I did find a lot of once fired 6.5 brass at a gun shop cheap.

I picked up the MilSurp from Century at the time they had the rifles and ammo.

Ed