RCBS Pro Melt Mould Guide for H&G Moulds

[gravely]

I just got a new RCBS Pro Melt lead furnace and the stock mould guide won't work with H&G moulds that have screw heads on the bottom. I am thinking about making a plywood box that has slots cut to allow the screws to pass as you slide a four-cavity mould underneath the spout. Just wanted to see what other casters have come up with to resolve this problem.

-archer

[KohlerK91]

Take the handle screws out and put pins with set screws in. This makes it flush on the bottom of mould. This has worked for me on 4 cavity moulds

[Mk42gunner]

I have done it a few different ways: 1. Work the screwheads down with a file until they fit flush with the bottom of the mold.

2. Set the guide a bit lower, with one of the stop collars set for the center of the mold. This works okay, but you really need to be able to see the spout while filling and pay attention.

3. Set the guide a bit lower and fill two cavities then bump the screws over the guide and fill the last two cavities.

KohlerK91's way is probably best in the long run.

Robert

[Hardcast416taylor]

RCBS and I`m sure other mold makers are using the hidden screw technique. This is putting an 1/8" pin of about 3/4" long in the screw hole and then put an 1/4" long allen head set screw. This give a smooth mold bottom for using a mold guide. I went a step futher on my RCBS mold guide. I moved the 2 set stops on the guide apart and placed a 3" piece of stainless pipe on the guide rod I moved the stop to the pipe end and tightened the set screw. Now I have a roller that lets the mold be moved a bit easier in and out. I`ve also seen pictures of what someone did with installing a Lyman mold guide on an RCBS press.Robert

[gravely]

Well, I have come up with 2 techniques to try this weekend. (1) I made a plywood box that has 2 dado grooves cut to accomodate the the H&G bottom screws. This seems to work well but I am not sure how well it will hold up to the heat. (2) based on suggestions above I put two 3/4 or so in washers on the RCBS guide rod separated by a spacer that create a roller with space for the H&G screws to pass. The RCBS guide stops hold the washers and spacer (nuts) together and aligned correctly. I will test both this weekend.

[gravely]

Used the RCBS pot last night and the plywood box with dados to fit the H&G screws worked great. The home-made roller system using washers/spacers on the stock RCBS mould guide worked OK but not as well as the box. I am quite impressed with the RCBS lead furnace and it is a real pleasure to use. The ability to fine-tune the flow rate and keep it consistent is amazing compared to the Lee Pro-4 furnace. Its a pricey piece of equipment but worth it for the long haul if you shoot/cast a lot.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

On my pro-melt I use the bearing assembly from an old skate board wheel. Slip it onto the mold guide between the two retaining collars. It fits between the mold block screws and gives ample clearance for them. Keep the bearing housing lightly oiled. Heat doesn't bother anything. Nothing rubs and works slick. LLS

[Jack Stanley]

I've been using a couple of two by four blocks glued together with saw cuts for the screw heads . the block is screwed to the bottom metal of the Pro-melt so it doesn't move around . The top of the block has a couple pieces of angle iron to guide the mold into proper position . I made a block for the four cavity and one for the six and have been using them for about twenty-five years now . Just a little charring from lead dribbles from time to time but still holds the mold in the right place .

Jack

[gravely]

Thanks - this is helpful info...I will add a some angle iron to my box based on your experience.

-archer

[Bradley]

My solution as to ask Magma to supply screws that didn't extend below the bottom of the mould. They sent them. Easy solution.

[gravely]

Just want to confirm that the new Magma screws fit an original H&G mould?

[stocker]

I had a similar conflict with a Magma mould. I simply removed the outboard mold guide collar from the mould rest and slide the mould on from the side. My Magma is only a 2 cavity mould so no conflicts with filling both cavities. Don't know if my solution would work for a larger mould. I ended up leaving the one collar off all the time even when using other moulds as the side ways movement was quicker to insert and remove the mould than pulling the mould back and forth when filling and required less body movement on my part.