Issues with new mold

[saint_iverson]

Good evening fellas!

Finally got around to casting up some rounds from the 311365 (198gr spire) group buy and I have some questions. This is the first time I've ever cast any spire point boolitsw, as well as casting for something other than pistol. My alloy is the standard COWW, I cooked the mold 3 times to ensure the pins set, cleaned the mold thoroughly with denatured alcohol, I used the sprue plate lube as instructed in the mold prep instructions, mold was quite warn when casting (heated on top of bottom pour melting pot), and was casting between 650-750:

1. problems with mold consistantly filling out:

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Seems like when I'm pouring, lead sticks to one part and then is filled around. Hard to deacribe but I hope you guys get the idea.

2. spire point ears:

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If you can see the boolits in the back of the photo, it is lead flowing between the cavities, primariy occuring in the cavity nearest the sprue hinge. I painstakingly cleaned and pretreated the mold to ensure the pins were aligned and cleaned the mold blocks to ensure they aligned correctly but still there is this small amount of lead flowing between. I used some sprue plate lube about half way through and that helped a little bit, but still an amount remains on the boolits. Should I not get too concerned over this? These ears will be taken off during the sizing portion, but I would like a little peace of mind.

In the end:

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[saint_iverson]

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[Ben]

OK, looks like your mold blocks are not closing properly.

Have you got a small lead splatter on the blocks that might be keeping them from fully closing.

Do you have the correct handles on the mold.

When the mold blocks are closed, can you see light between the 2 mold halves ?

Ben

[saint_iverson]

1. no visible splatter
2. Lee 6cav on a 4cav NOE Alum
3. No light

Everything appears to lock up nice and tight!

[Silverboolit]

If these are aluminum molds, maybe a quick 'leementing' will help. Do the boolits drop ok from the mold?

As far as having a "patch' on one side, I have found that you may need a hotter mold. Seems like some of the spire points get hot spots on the nose area.

I, also, am an "iverson', just not sure about the saint part

[saint_iverson]

Hmm... So it could be because the mold wasn't hot enough? Once the mold was up to temp I needed to rap a little on the joint to get them to fall... Was thinking about Lee-menting but wanted to try the mold out before I commited.

We are all unique!

[saint_iverson]

Another just as important question, to smoke, or not to smoke?

[Ben]

Are you using a bottom pour pot or are you using a ladle to cast with ?

Once I know that the mold cavity is clean, ( you mentioned using sprue plate lube....very easy for a tiny amount of that to get into a mold cavity......it will wreak havoc ! ), I use a butane lighter and put a VERY thin film of soot in the cavities.

Works great for me.

Others here would say that my suggestion to you
is utter " blasphemy ".

Ben

[saint_iverson]

I used it mid way thru the session again the mold block that still had boolits in it to prevent cav contamination. I've thought of smoking it, light or heavy, I've done neither bc of some of the things people have mentioned on here. And since its a pain to clean once its smoked, I steer clear until its my last resort

[cbrick]

Well Ben, I wouldn't say blasphemy but . . . The very best any smoking the cavities could do if it does anything is try to cover up a problem, better to fix the problem. Smoking can also plug the vent lines making casting even more difficult.

I would not do anything that would/could alter the mold, it should not need it. If there is a problem Al is exceptionally good at taking care of it.

The fins are absolutely from not closing the blocks. The fill out is from a mold that is too cool. Aluminum looses heat very rapidly, keep the blocks closed and full as much as possible, stop inspecting the boolits while your casting because the blocks are cooling off. Cast with WW @ 700 to 725 degrees and cast faster. Try to get an old hot plate to pre-heat the mold, works much better than the top of the pot.

I have that same mold and it is a joy to use, with clean, not smoked cavities.

Rick

[saint_iverson]

Rick, it could be that there is small amounts of residual between the cavities, but cannot see any, is there something I can use to run between the blocks to knock off any residual?

[Larry Gibson]

Add 2% tin to the COWWs and AC for 7-10 days or WQ and wait 48 hours before use.

If a bottom pour furnace cast at 725 degrees and open the spout up to get the hotter alloy into the mould quicker.

Do a visual on the mould after closing the sprue plate to be sure the mould halves are closed.

Keep the sprue plate about 3/8" from the spout and allow a generous sprue to form (even if it runs off the side).

Cast at a consistentspeed to keep the mould hot enough to cast good bullets but not so hot they are frosted.

Larry Gibson

[trying2learn]

I too would have to agree that the mold osnt closing completely. Only way I know of to have fins on a boolit. Might try a piece of card stock or thicker paper on it after its cooled to see if it hits anything. I suggest paper so it won't tear the block faces up. Not for any other reason. And I have no noe mold experience yet. But my lee does like to be hotter then others to fill out properly. Both lead and mold temps. And I have to cast a tad faster to keep the temp up.

[cbrick]

You might check the alignment pins to see if one or both are slightly holding the block apart. I've not had that problem with NOE but anything is possible.

Larry brought up an excellent point that I forgot, pour a very generous sprue puddle. It has a nice thick sprue plate that will require the large sprue puddle to get and keep it hot enough.

Rick

[41 mag fan]

Sounds like my 45-255RF mold. Bushing on the alignment was sticking out just a hair causing fins.

[saint_iverson]

I'll try and get another casting session in the schedule soon. Also I run some paper across the blocks to try and feel snags. Should I go ahead and leement? Or hold off until the next session with a hotter mold?

[cbrick]

But my lee does like to be hotter then others to fill out properly. Both lead and mold temps.

That's not good advice. Do as Larry suggested and add 2% Sn. Tin looses it's ability to do what you put it in the alloy to do at 750 degrees. The tin reduces the surface tension of the alloy, both on top of the pot and in the stream from the bottom pour spout or from the ladle, that's why/how the mold fills out better with tin. Past 750 tin looses it's ability to do this and the tin itself will oxidize much faster.

Rick

[saint_iverson]

I water quench fyi, ill add more to the sprue when filling, don't have tin laying around to blend, actually need to have a smelt session as I just essentially emptied my last reserves. If it weren't for all the snow on the ground I would've done that instead. May clean out the shed n have a session this wk

[trying2learn]

That's not good advice. Do as Larry suggested and add 2% Sn. Tin looses it's ability to do what you put it in the alloy to do at 750 degrees. The tin reduces the surface tension of the alloy, both on top of the pot and in the stream from the bottom pour spout or from the ladle, that's why/how the mold fills out better with tin. Past 750 tin looses it's ability to do this and the tin itself will oxidize much faster.

Rick

I don't go past 700 - 725 but compared to my ideal mold that likes the alloy to be around 625-650. That was what I was meaning. I am sorry I wasn't more clear on that. I am new and don't have the experience you fine gentleman do. I wasn't trying to siggest bad casting techniques just a pointer if I missed the fact that he was above what I was suggesting then yes I do agree the tin woiud help.