Broke a Cardinal Rule: Changed Two Things at Once

[milrifle]

Some of you may remember my thread a week or two back about antimony wash. I was advised that my lube (Non-cooked version of 45-45-10) wasn't doing its job, so I decided to try pan lubing with Simple Green. The only bullets I had to try it on were some I had water dropped. The others that had been leaving the deposit in my barrel were air cooled and were about 12 bhn. These water dropped ones were cast 4 days ago and are currently at 19 bhn, but are probably still going up. Well......I liked what I saw. No more deposit in the barrel. Velocity went from 1790 fps with a SD of 21 to 1823 fps with a SD of 14. 30 round group went from 6-1/2" to 4-3/4" ES and mean radius of the group went from 1.58" to 1.36". This is DEFINITELY a step in the right direction. But which is responsible? Harder bullets or the different lube? I may never know, but I don't think I'm going back.

[Tatume]

Hi Mil,

That's the first I heard of using Simple Green as a bullet lube. Are you using the liquid general purpose cleaning solution sold by Wal Mart?

Thanks, Tom

[milrifle]

No. It was a home brew I found on here.

4 oz. (by weight) Beeswax
4 teaspoons Vaseline
2 teaspoons Transmission Fluid
2 teaspoons 2 Cycle Oil

Melt the beeswax, then stir in the other ingredients. I don't recall who's recipe this was, or I would credit him, but he was one of the regulars on here. I had to triple the quantities to have enough to pan lube.

[Tatume]

Thanks, I might try some myself.

[runfiverun]

it's mine.
it was a response to several questions for a simple easy to make effective lube.

the lube is easily adjustable [by the vaseline amount] to work with the b-wax you have on hand.
it even takes a little alox very well if you want to add some.
2.5 tsp [thickened alox] added to the above mix will add more flexability to the lube,and add a little better seal along the edges of the rifling if it's needed for higher pressure loads.
it got it's name because it's simple to make, takes manipulation easily, and is green if your 2 stroke oil is a bluish color.

[rintinglen]

it's mine.
it was a response to several questions for a simple easy to make effective lube.

the lube is easily adjustable [by the vaseline amount] to work with the b-wax you have on hand.
it even takes a little alox very well if you want to add some.
2.5 tsp [thickened alox] added to the above mix will add more flexability to the lube,and add a little better seal along the edges of the rifling if it's needed for higher pressure loads.
it got it's name because it's simple to make, takes manipulation easily, and is green if your 2 stroke oil is a bluish color.

And it is good stuff, though mine is simple pink--Thanks Runfiverun.

[44man]

Harder boolit? SURE, can you see that?
Get rid of slump and skid and what do you find?
Lube does not help at all, it still works at the right hardness. Lube is not magic.

[nanuk]

..... Lube is not magic.

You mean I've been dancing around the melting pot over a fire, nekid, under the full moon, holding the sacred stick, in this -23deg weather for nuthin????

[I'll Make Mine]

You mean I've been dancing around the melting pot over a fire, nekid, under the full moon, holding the sacred stick, in this -23deg weather for nuthin????

Well, if you forgot to dye yourself blue with proper woad, then yes, you certainly have... :kidding:

[kbstenberg]

Nanuk it wasn't for nuthin. The neibers are leaving you alone now! Arn't they!

[geargnasher]

Actually, the lube can have a LOT to do with it.

I seem to recall a comment Run made when testing the Simple Green that it eliminated some light antimony wash that one rifle tended to accumulate with the lithium grease lubes. I think there's something to that, because I get a little of that with most of the metal soap lubes but never got it with old NRA lube or with beeswax/vaseline lube, although neither of the latter did as well at high pressure as the soap lubes.

Gear

[Springfield]

Might want to rename your lube, Simple Green is an already existing product. Keep from confusing us all here. Even Simply Green would do it.

[fcvan]

How about 'not particularly difficult green' :)

[runfiverun]

i was using color codes at the time like E-purple, E-yellow,L-yellow, and L-yellow_m.
simple lube green, just come out simple green.
i guess easy green would work too,or E-green.
i allready have a lube called O.D-green/O.D-brown made with soy wax and sodium stearate.
i don't care what it's called.

[Sax.45]

runfiverun, I just got back into casting a few months ago and was looking for a easy to make lube. I made up a batch and used it for pan lubing bullets. It's been working fine. Thanks for posting it. :-D:- :-D

Sax.45

[runfiverun]

i wish i could still find yellow vaseline,but the white petroleum jelly works fine too.
it seems to make a pretty good pan lube too.
you can easily modify this lube based on your preferences.
a little soft parrafin
xlox
or a little lanolin
all of them changes things just a little.
but that was the point of this lube it is easily modified to suit your b-wax or weather conditions.
and the proportions are simple and not iron clad.
if you spill a little 2 stroke in extra or a titch more atf and it doesn't change the lube.

[1Shirt]

Years ago I messed with Lube making. Back then I settled on 50% beeswax/50% Vasoline, and an adequate amount of powdered graphite. Had to keep sturing as it cooled to keep the graphite suspended. It worked fine for a number of years, and saved me a lot of money which was scarce back then. Tried other combinations over the years, most worked at least to a degree. When White Lable Can Red came out, I tried it, liked it and bought a bunch. It works great in temps above say 40 or so degrees, but in my opinion accuracy starts falling off below that until the bbl is warm. Soooooo- for cold weather shooting, I have switched to White lable 50-50, which doesn't seem to mind how cold it gets, and will stay with Can Red for above 40.
1Shirt!