Checkering my next 1911 .45 Build!

[seagiant]

Hi,
I decided this afternoon to checker my next 1911 build using a Caspian made GI type basic frame. I'm going to maybe try a retro type of build but I like checkering and I'm trying to learn it as best as I can as I know no one near me that does it. It seems as the gun shops are using $1000 jigs and thats out of my pocket book!

I use a 20 lpi checkering file and some home made tooling. I try to make what tooling or jigs that I can if it is a doable project. I use these guides to get me started and get the lines as straight as I can get them. I still have problems and of course the more you do it the better you get but I admittedly don't do alot! Here's some pics for anyone interested!

[seagiant]

Hi,
Here's some more. The checkering looks better after bead blasting as it melds the colors and gets rid of the scratches but have not done that yet!

[Reg]

Very nice. Looks like a factory job !!!!


:drinks:

[theperfessor]

Very good job, looks like it would be real effective.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Nice job,,, however exactly how does this relate to using an AR? I tought we were learning how to use one of those? Now you're checkering 1911's?

I'm cornfused. :veryconfu

Also I'd like to thank you for getting me interested in AR's again,,,Greg! Now I am trying to find a lower before the first, so I have the option of building one someday if I ever get caught up.

Randy

[jmsj]

seagiant,
That looks great.
jmsj

[seagiant]

Hi,
Thanks Gentlemen,although not on par with the pros luckily it will work and do it's job I think. I noticed from looking at my pics I had forgotten to tune up the last bit on the right side border so finished that and then bead blasted it to get a better look. It will work and I learned a few more things this time so hopefully getting better! With a checkering job going for at least $200 it is gratifying!

Randy PM inbound!

[MBTcustom]

Very nice!
Now go get a 50LPI and do the back of the slide and frame. Adds a nice touch.
When I got my checkering files, every surface I touched was a little too smooth, and needed to be improved upon if you know what I mean. Heh heh.

[seagiant]

Hi GS,
The checkering file in the top pic with the pear shaped handle is a 40 lpi file. I use that as it matches the lines on the back of a lot of after market rear sights when you do the back of slides! I don't know at my age if I could see a 50 lpi file!:mrgreen:

[Awsar]

looks great man good job dont forget to checker your mag release then your finger will stick to it when you need to change mags.

[EMC45]

Nice work.

[alrighty]

That is one fine looking checkering job.One day I will get up the nerve and try it.I don't know why but I am hesitant to try it.I have file fit a Wilson beavertail safety .I even cut my slide for a low mount BoMar rear sight.Still I have the Wilson checkered panels on two of my 1911's.Thanks for posting this and again great job!

[seagiant]

Hi,
Thanks,here is a nice site on 1911 gunwork! http://www.blindhogg.com/gunsmithing.html

[alrighty]

Hi,
Thanks,here is a nice site on 1911 gunwork! http://www.blindhogg.com/gunsmithing.html

That is where I got the print to cut the low mount Bo-Mar.Very informative site.Again , nice work!

[seagiant]

Hi,
I did some more work on my pistola and took some more crummy pics. The frame is a Caspian with slightly oversize rails so it can be fitted to different slides. I measured the rails and I found they were only about .004 thicker or taller than the slots in the slide. The slide is Colt made at Hartford,Conn. for the Brazilian army in 1940! I have had 2 of them and they are excellent "GI" slides! I have a Bridgeport mill but prefer to use a file fitting rails and then lap the slide and frame together. The only downside to this is taking off to much at one time from the top of the frame! You want resistance at all times until you start the lapping. I also tightend the slide to frame after I got the height right on the frame and then relapped again to get the width right on the frame with the slide. So lapped in the up and down motion and then lapped in the side to side. If you decide to tighten slide rails it's nice to have a big 6" vise and as a fair warning, take it easy! A little goes a long way,but once all of this has been done and then the final lapping with oil only is done (about 200 strokes) the slide feels like its running on roller bearings!

The other thing I like to do is to lower the ejection port to help the empty case out of the slide when firing. I use a "Yavapi" (sp) jig to hold the slide in the vise in the mill. This is pretty straight forward mill work and I usually cut down till I'm at .450 from the bottom of the slide.

[MtGun44]

That really is a fine job you did there!

I like 20 lpi for competition guns and 30 lpi for carry guns. I have checkered
3 1911s and they all turned out well, but you really do have to focus on what
you are doing. Haven't done one in years myself.

Bill

[seagiant]

Hi,
Thanks, staying with the theme of a retro build so to speak I decided to put on a wide tenon front sight instead of a dovetail type. The rear sight will be a "10-8" made retro combat sight that uses the original dovetail for the rear. I milled a slot with a mill cutter the same dia. as the post and then peened in the sight with a homemade peen rail. This is made from a peice of 3/4" sg. stock and #5 hardened bolts for the parts that take the abuse.

After everything was peened and checked for straightness I silver soldered the sight to make sure it does not go anywhere! Here are some pics,I still have to clean up the solder line a bit more but you get the idea.

[EMC45]

Looking great.

[seagiant]

Hi,
I decided to put on the plunger tube today. When you buy just a frame they usually don't have one installed. I took my Foredom tool and a 1/8' ball bit and ground a relief around the attach holes to swage the tube on with the attachment tool. No matter how careful I am or how good the job goes I always noticed a little binding of the spring once installed so broke down and bought 2 reamers from Brownell's and that solved the problem. A very good book that shows all of this is Kuhnhausen's and as you can see mine is well used!

[W.R.Buchanan]

I did not know that, although I do have that book. Randy

[seagiant]

Hi,
Well,I got the pistol together for break in. I bought one of the lower priced ambi safetys ($35) and it needed a LOT of fitting! I gues junk now is $35 and the good stuff is $150! Go figure! For those interested I mostly used Ed Brown small parts and USGI that I had stowed away. I will now run about 200 rds through it in the next few weeks and then probably do a trigger job and smooth what needs smoothing and then bead blast then slow rust blue staying with the sort of retro look!

[W.R.Buchanan]

That came out looking good Greg. I like the Commander hammer. It will look even better when it is blued.

Going to SHOT show Monday. You can still make it.

Randy

[seagiant]

Hi Randy,
Wish I could go! I was talking to one of my Gunsmith buddys and he said it really wasn't that expensive! I might try to make it next year. Thanks for the invite!!!

[W.R.Buchanan]

Greg: it was $25 to get in this year. Obviously you have to pay for Airline fares to and from FL and then a few days at a hotel in Vegas.

WE just drive over and stay at my Bro in Laws house there, shich makes it more convienient. We also use his house as home base when we go to Front Sight which makes that trip more feasible as well.

However the worth of seeing what is available in the industry is well in excess of the cost. And I can't adequately describe the multitude of information you can get from just one trip.

If you try to see it all, you will walk 5-7 miles a day for 3 days strait. If you talk to lots of people like I do, you'll need all 4 days.

Maybe next year? Hope to see you FTF.

And If you get out here to pick up a ship you're always welcome.

Randy