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USARO4
04-23-2007, 10:12 AM
I just finished shooting 300 rds of Lee 124 gr TC, tumble lubed with Johnson's Paste Wax. The gun Was a Uberti-Colt clone. when I started shooting the bore was slightly dirty from shooting Alox lubed bullets, after shooting the wax lubed bullets it was squeaky clean, almost looked like there was a polished layer of wax coating the bore. Absolutely no leading. Anybody else ever get these results?

felix
04-23-2007, 11:11 AM
Yes, it is the carnauba wax contained within the JPW. The proportion of carnauba is important in any wax you would make on your own to get what you see. That proportion is unknown until you make up various lube proportions of what you have on the table. ... felix

Dutch4122
04-23-2007, 11:25 AM
Yep, I've gotten the same results so far in 3 rifles. A long barreled 8mm Persian Mauser, French MAS 36 7.5x54, and an H&R Ultra rifle in .450 Marlin. In all cases the boolits dropped from the molds at diameters that I didn't want to size down any farther so I could maintain at least a diameter that was .015" over bore size. So, I snapped on the gas checks by hand and dipped them all in melted Johnson's Paste Wax, coating the driving bands while holding them by the nose. Ran them in the 8mm with a 175 grn GC boolit over 16-18 grains of 2400 up to 1850 fps; the 7.5x54 MAS was 18 grns of 2400 with a 190 grn GC boolit well over 1700 fps; and the .450 Marlin with a 500 grn GC boolit and RE-7 up to 1500+ fps. In each case I had a little powder residue in the barrel which I wiped out with a dry patch. After doing so all three bores were bright and shiney with an almost "wet" appearance. No leading and got a lube star on all three as well. Never tried JPW in handguns yet and have only run it up to 2025 FPS in a .444 Marlin (325 grn FNGC boolit) where I did get some slight leading, but I suspect boolit fit to be the culprit there and I will have to work on that load more before passing judgement on JPW's use above 2000 fps.

All loads showed accuracy potential (even the .444 load) and I think its just a matter of tweaking those loads to get best accuracy.

Hope this helps,

jonk
04-23-2007, 11:47 AM
Where do you find this, in the cleaner section of a Wal mart, etc.?

USARO4
04-23-2007, 12:58 PM
I bought mine at Ace Hardware for about 5 bucks a can. It's the type they use on floors. I remember buffing floors with it back in my Army days.

montana_charlie
04-23-2007, 01:10 PM
I would be interested in hearing results of using JPW over black powder charges.
If they are good, I'll put it on my 'list' of lubes to try next...
CM

Dutch4122
04-23-2007, 01:34 PM
I would be interested in hearing results of using JPW over black powder charges.
If they are good, I'll put it on my 'list' of lubes to try next...
CM


My gut tells me that it wouldn't be a good idea. I think I read something once that B/P lubes had to be made of all natural ingredients and specifically nothing petroleum based. When heated up in a glass bowl on a hotplate the JPW gives off some "interesting" fumes; and I know from experience in the Army that the stuff is easily lit with a match and lighter. Smells a lot like melted 50/50 beeswax/allox lube. I always make sure to use it in a well ventilated area.

Hope this helps, :)

jonk
04-23-2007, 02:50 PM
What would happen if you melted this stuff and poured into a lubrisizer?

Hmmm.....

357maximum
04-23-2007, 03:01 PM
What would happen if you melted this stuff and poured into a lubrisizer?

Hmmm.....

Johnsons has a drying solvent agent in it.....I would imagine if it was left in the lube resovior very long at all..you would have a dry rock in your sizer....proably not a good idea...


when I add JPW to a beeswax based lube...I always "cook" it long enough to ensure the solvent goes away....the carnauba in JPW is what I want when using it as an ingredient,,,not the solvent.

as far a tlubing with it I have had good luck with it as well as a 50/50 mix of LLA/JPW up to light rifle velocities.....I use it alot on boolits not requiring sizing...works well

jonk
04-23-2007, 03:37 PM
Well if it would harden too much then I won't do THAT, but I don't see the advantage over any other lube if you have to melt it to pan lube with it; I never much liked pan lubing but if I did, how is Johnson's better than any other method? This is why I like LLA for bullets I don't size.

357maximum
04-23-2007, 04:40 PM
Well if it would harden too much then I won't do THAT, but I don't see the advantage over any other lube if you have to melt it to pan lube with it; I never much liked pan lubing but if I did, how is Johnson's better than any other method? This is why I like LLA for bullets I don't size.

You use johnsons as a tumblelube and let it dry, just like LLA. I do not melt it for tl'ing, just when it is used as an ingredient in a wax based lube.....


I own several sizers and I still panlube Certain boolits, I get better accuracy on the long skinnies with it over the lubesizers, and that is why....panlubing has it's places...

duke76
04-23-2007, 07:00 PM
Yep, I've gotten the same results so far in 3 rifles. A long barreled 8mm Persian Mauser, French MAS 36 7.5x54, and an H&R Ultra rifle in .450 Marlin. In all cases the boolits dropped from the molds at diameters that I didn't want to size down any farther so I could maintain at least a diameter that was .015" over bore size. So, I snapped on the gas checks by hand and dipped them all in melted Johnson's Paste Wax, coating the driving bands while holding them by the nose. Ran them in the 8mm with a 175 grn GC boolit over 16-18 grains of 2400 up to 1850 fps; the 7.5x54 MAS was 18 grns of 2400 with a 190 grn GC boolit well over 1700 fps; and the .450 Marlin with a 500 grn GC boolit and RE-7 up to 1500+ fps. In each case I had a little powder residue in the barrel which I wiped out with a dry patch. After doing so all three bores were bright and shiney with an almost "wet" appearance. No leading and got a lube star on all three as well. Never tried JPW in handguns yet and have only run it up to 2025 FPS in a .444 Marlin (325 grn FNGC boolit) where I did get some slight leading, but I suspect boolit fit to be the culprit there and I will have to work on that load more before passing judgement on JPW's use above 2000 fps.

All loads showed accuracy potential (even the .444 load) and I think its just a matter of tweaking those loads to get best accuracy.

Hope this helps,



You said you snapped on the gaschecks without running them through the sizer. I didn't know that was possible. I have never tried it but often wondered how I was going to put on gas checks and just figured I would have to have an oversized sizer die made. Does it work well or is it a pain? Are they on just as tight as running them trough a sizer? Is there anything special you have to do to the check?

Ohio Rusty
04-23-2007, 09:01 PM
Is the J's paste wax or J's paste wax and beeswax put on thick enough to fill the lube grooves and let dry, or are the bullets just coated all over and the lube grooves aren't full, but have a coasting of the paste wax lube? I'm asking as I can't find a bottle of alox on any gun store locally, and I'm needing to have some lube for the bullets I have cast.
Thanx ......
Ohio Rusty

Dutch4122
04-23-2007, 10:50 PM
You said you snapped on the gaschecks without running them through the sizer. I didn't know that was possible. I have never tried it but often wondered how I was going to put on gas checks and just figured I would have to have an oversized sizer die made. Does it work well or is it a pain? Are they on just as tight as running them trough a sizer? Is there anything special you have to do to the check?

I have installed the gas checks several different ways depending on how hard they are to snap on the base shank. 1st method is to hold the boolit upside down between thumb and forfinger and press the check on with the other thumb. However, if this works you'll usually have a very loose fitting gas check that will spin on the shank. I hit these with a small drop of super glue inside the gas check before installing it on the boolit shank. 2nd method is to set a folded doubled over section of kitchen paper towel on the table and then set the gas checks on the paper towel base down; then I just take the boolit and press it into the gas check. Some of these that snap on with the help of the tables hard surface will still spin and if I find that they are then they get the super glue treatment as well. 3rd method I have used is for those where the checks are pretty much impossible to install by hand. I just use a sizer die that is .001" larger than the boolit to seat the checks squarely on the boolit bases. The slight out of roundness encountered with most boolits will provide enough resistance to get the check seated.

Once the gas checks are installed by one of the three above methods then I just fire up the old hotplate (lowest setting) with the small glass bowl of JPW on it. Once the JPW is melted I hold each boolit by the nose and dip it in the bowl of melted JPW for 4-5 seconds with all the driving bands down in the JPW. Then I set them on a sheet of wax paper to dry. When a batch of 50 are done I also wipe the excess JPW off the bases on a sheet of paper towel and let them sit 24 hrs before loading.

Hope this helps,

garandsrus
04-23-2007, 11:00 PM
duke76,

I tried seating some .30 cal gas checks by hand and they seated fine. However, without crimping/sizing the gas check, it expanded the case neck as the boolit was seated. If the check went below the case shoulder, the rest of the boolit would fall into the case, so obviously this didn't work for me.

John

Leftoverdj
04-24-2007, 10:06 AM
Well if it would harden too much then I won't do THAT, but I don't see the advantage over any other lube if you have to melt it to pan lube with it; I never much liked pan lubing but if I did, how is Johnson's better than any other method? This is why I like LLA for bullets I don't size.

Johnsons is better than LLA in that it does not gum up your seating die as badly, is far more readily available, and is much cheaper.

My method of application is to preheat the bullets, usually in a two pound coffee can on my wood stove, before adding a couple of dollops of JPW and tumbling. The wax coats much more evenly on bullets still cool enough to pick up, but hot enough so you don't want to hold them long. For me, this is as easy as LLA.

I've been very happy with the results in pistols and pistol caliber carbines. It seems to be suitable for any plain base bullet load I use although I'll stick with more normal lubes for GCed bullets.

Scrounger
04-24-2007, 11:32 AM
Group Buy On Johnson's Paste Wax???

Ohio Rusty
04-25-2007, 10:13 AM
I stopped by Meijer on the way home, and they had maybe 8 cans of Johnsons Paste wax on the shelf. They have one less now. This seems to be a hard item to get as most stores don't carry it. I assume that is because not too many people use paste wax for floors anymore since most flooring is now maintenance free. I'm looking forward to trying it as that JPW plus the beeswax I have can make me 20 pounds of boolet lube for about 5 or 6 bucks. 20 pounds of Lee Alox would be $487.33......... The paste wax lube sounds like a real winner to me.
Ohio Rusty

Ricochet
04-25-2007, 10:18 AM
Rusty, you should've gotten in on the just completed Alox Group Buy.

35remington
04-25-2007, 08:16 PM
I apply it almost identically to leftoverdj's method, warming the bullets in a 175 degree oven with the door slightly open in a metal container (old tin can).

To distribute the lube, I use a cut off one gallon plastic milk jug, with a diagonal cut through it that removes the screw on top and about one third of the jug but leaves the handle on.

Dump a dollop of Johnson's in the bottom of the jug. Not too much at first; always easier to add than drain away. Dump warmed bullets on top. Swirl. Observe the sides and bottom of the jug; if there's a light wash of Johnson's on it you're right; you don't want a big pool of wax on the bottom. Dump on waxed paper to dry. That's it.

Excellent for my 25-20 plainbase hunting loads. Lube is sufficient, hard, does not rub off or collect grit. Works on standard lube groove bullets or tumble lube design.

Ohio Rusty
04-26-2007, 10:37 AM
As a follow up report to my first experience lubing with a 50/50 mix of JPW and beeswax, it turned out well and I learned a few things. This was done over my coleman stove outside on the lowest heat setting. After 24 hours, the lube has hardened alot more than yesterday. Yesterday it was still soft on the boolets and would wipe off the boolets with the fingers, not so today. Pan lubing was an utter failure as when the bullets would come apart, the lube would pop out of the grooves and not stick well. The best method was to warm the lube to a liquid, put the boolets in the metal pie pan and let the boolets get warm also. If they went in cold, the lube would immediately harden around the bullet in a big chunk. As the bullet warmed, the lube would coat the bullet evenly and set in the lube grooves as expected. It worked out really well doing this with my cast .429 round ball and rolling them around in the pan to get an even coat. All the lead bullets were put on wax paper to dry. I sure am please with the results so far, and I'm grateful to the list for the great advice. I hope to get a chance to load some rounds and fire some of these this weekend. I'm most excited about shooting the round ball and working up a good load for it. I can see me shooting thousands of these RB loads over the summer just for the fun of it. I'll report on that later .....
Ohio Rusty

WHITETAIL
04-27-2007, 07:35 PM
Ok boys and girls, here is a no fuss way of lubing with JPW.
Get yourself a small jar. Like a cherry jar.
Then putin your boolets say 50 at a time.
Then add a1/4 spoon full of JPW to the jar.
Set the jar on a heat unit. such as a heater or wood stove.
When the wax melts swirl the boolets around in the jar.
Then take the boolets out with a pair of tweesers.
And place base down on a sheet of wax paper.
Let sit overnight.
Now they are ready to load.

NSP64
04-28-2007, 08:32 AM
I bought mine at Ace Hardware for about 5 bucks a can. It's the type they use on floors. I remember buffing floors with it back in my Army days.

Yesssss, those were the days!!! used to bend a coat hanger around them and light them. put the lid on to extinguish, then pour on floor in small puddles. spread with buffer brush, let dry then polish to high shine with cotton towel. mirror shine. Until some idiot had to polish commanders office on the weekend and lit the curtains on fire. Monday, pulled all the JPW out of the building. Floor never looked the same. never thought about shooting it. have to lube some R.E.A.L. boolits and go launch them.:Fire:

HEAD0001
04-29-2007, 11:30 PM
It never ceases to amaze me the stuff you guys come up with. This is a fun site. Tom.

beagle
04-30-2007, 12:27 AM
These are still the good old days. My conference room had a maroon tile floor and we'd heat and mix Kiwi Cordovan shoe polish in with Johnson's paste wax. Got to watch messing with it as it's flammable as all hell. Then get a good private that knows what he's doing on a buffer and an old towel and he'd make it look like glass.

As sundog says, "The Sergeant Major is awlays right"./beagle


Yesssss, those were the days!!! used to bend a coat hanger around them and light them. put the lid on to extinguish, then pour on floor in small puddles. spread with buffer brush, let dry then polish to high shine with cotton towel. mirror shine. Until some idiot had to polish commanders office on the weekend and lit the curtains on fire. Monday, pulled all the JPW out of the building. Floor never looked the same. never thought about shooting it. have to lube some R.E.A.L. boolits and go launch them.:Fire:

USARO4
04-30-2007, 09:07 AM
AAHHH, thanks for the memories Beagle, I had forgotten the towel under the buffer trick. I also remember my first experience as a buffer operator, seems like the thing had a mind of it's own. I remember chasing it all over the Dayroom floor. By the way I too use Leftoverdj's and 35remington's method to apply the JPW to boolits. Its not messy at all and evenly coats the bullet with a thin layer of wax.

opcon4
04-30-2007, 08:28 PM
won't the wax eat away at the barrel?

pdawg_shooter
05-01-2007, 01:24 PM
Any one try JPW as a lube for paper patches? Most anything seems to work ok, but JPW sounds neat and clean.

Ricochet
05-01-2007, 07:18 PM
How would wax eat away at a barrel? Nothing corrosive in it.

Wonder how Cordovan Kiwi Polish would work as a boolit lube? :mrgreen:

leftiye
05-01-2007, 07:19 PM
Ric, Nice Color!

Scrounger
05-01-2007, 07:52 PM
Wax allows moisture to collect unseen under it. Shooting wax coated bullets is OK, just make sure you clean it good afterwards.

Bret4207
05-02-2007, 07:10 AM
I think if moisture in my barrel was a concern I''d either use a moisture displacer like WD-40 or warm the barrel with a blow dryer enough to get it "warm and snuggly" as my 3 year old says. Then once the moistures gone the JPW should seal the bad stuff out.

Ah, floor buffing. A subject dear to the heart of any Marine. There was a time when the best looking floor four weeks in a row got you a 4 day pass. Did you guys know that you can sneak a bit of sand into the floor wax supply? Got to buy your own supply on the sly but it was worth it as there was this girl at the time and she and I .....

44man
05-02-2007, 07:27 AM
I found out long ago that water would get between the barrel and stock of my flinters and soak the pan powder. I put gobs of paste wax in the barrel channel and force the excess out when I replace the barrel. Polish it away and the gun is water proof. After years of this bedding, the metal is still like new too. I have used wax on many guns for protection when hunting in the rain. It makes a good release agent for bedding epoxy too and I fill the screw threads with it before tightening down a bedding job.
The stuff has a million uses.

USARO4
05-02-2007, 08:45 AM
Does wax allow moisture to collect unseen under it when used on a car's finish? Seems to me it repels water and protects the finish, maybe it has the same effect on a barrel. Anybody have any long term experience in shooting JPW coated bullets and its effect on the barrel?

Ricochet
05-02-2007, 08:55 AM
If Johnson's paste wax on boolits collects water under it and rusts barrels, so does the beeswax, paraffin and carnauba wax in just about every other boolit lube formula used by shooters on this board. That's ludicrous.

Scrounger
05-02-2007, 10:10 AM
If Johnson's paste wax on boolits collects water under it and rusts barrels, so does the beeswax, paraffin and carnauba wax in just about every other boolit lube formula used by shooters on this board. That's ludicrous.

I suppose you're right. The pressure of the bullet against the barrel, and the heat, would probably disspell any moisture. I was basing that assumption on a fellow who used to wax the outside of his guns; he did get some rust problems there.

Ricochet
05-02-2007, 10:41 AM
The problem there is if you wax over existing stuff that'll trap moisture, like salt from perspiration. I'd really worry about that with shooting waxy lubes over corrosive primers, but that's seldom a problem except with mxing cast boolit loads with old milsurp ammo as I often do. I have had rust form in my Colt Walker's chamber mouths when I used Pyrodex (which has potassium perchlorate in it) and greased boolits with automotive grease that was hard to wash out completely and trapped some of the corrosive salt even though I thought I'd thoroughly washed it out with hot soapy water and rinsed it with hot water, dried and oiled it. Wasn't enough.

rroberts
05-02-2007, 11:16 AM
JPW is just as good on the outside as it is on the inside. Here in the deep south where humidity and sweat are a constant, many folks put JPW on the outside of the gun. Clean the gun very well, wax it down and wipe it off. It is an excellent rust preventative. It repels perspiration, rain, and make the guns easier to wipe down.

Baron von Trollwhack
05-02-2007, 03:12 PM
Calling ludicris is a pretty bad rap. He, He!

44man
05-02-2007, 05:21 PM
Thats the secret to wax. Clean off everything else before putting it on. Doesn't do any good to try to put it on top of grease, oil, sweat or anything else.

nelsonted1
05-03-2007, 12:38 AM
I trotted down to Walmart only to find no JPW BUT there are lots and lots of car waxes. Are they the same? SOme are even liquified. Ace has it for $5.00

Mallard57
05-03-2007, 08:40 AM
[QUOTE][I trotted down to Walmart only to find no JPW BUT there are lots and lots of car waxes. Are they the same? SOme are even liquified. Ace has it for $5.00/QUOTE]
Did you look in the home cleaning supplies, I don't think it's with the automotive stuff.
Jeff

R.M.
05-03-2007, 10:09 AM
I couldn't find it at WallyWorld either. I did get some from my local Mom'n'Pop hardware store. Haven't tried any yet.

R.M.

Ricochet
05-03-2007, 10:11 AM
Look in the housewares section with the soaps and cleaners. Not where the car waxes are.

nelsonted1
05-03-2007, 12:59 PM
I even asked! And got answers! In a Walmart! Helps I know several dept heads and the store mgr. They, this store, doesn't carry JPW. I can get it at the local hardware store. I checked.

MY QUESTION: Are any of the common car waxes suitable ie Turtle Wax? What ingredients do I look for? There are no or nearly no ingredients listed on most I looked at so I guess I'd need to look them up online.

CAR WAX PRODUCTS SUITABLE?

Ricochet
05-03-2007, 01:14 PM
NO!

They contain abrasive polishes, i.e., diatomaceous earth, kaolin, etc. Might work for fire lapping purposes.

BAGTIC
05-03-2007, 01:59 PM
I am the one who started the JPW thread afew years ago. I just tumble lube.

I don't add anything. Don't worry about the grooves not being filled. Lube left in the grooves after firing indicates that it didn't do anything in the first place or else it wouldn't still be there. I suspect that results are based on each shot laying down a thin film of wax that prepares the way for the next shot. Just as target shooters will fire a fouling shot to condition the bore for subsequent shots each bullets preps the bore for its successor.

Think about it. In conventional sizing/lubing the wax is scraped off the very part of the bullet that is left in bore contact. Most leading tends to occur in the bottom of the grooves not on top of the lands.

Ever try soldering, without fluxing, a dirty piece of metal that had even a small film on it. The solder won't stick. If the lead doesn't stick it will be pushed along by the bullet assuming the bullet is a large enough fit to completely seal the bore.

wire nut
05-03-2007, 07:34 PM
Hey guy's I have a question.I lubed some boolits this afternoon using leftoverdj's method. How thick a coating of wax would need to be applied.After coating the bullets looked dull and had a very lite coat of wax on them.I guess I am trying to compare to LLA on how thick a coating. Any advice appreciated. Jim

threett1
05-03-2007, 08:42 PM
I picked some up at Wally World the other day in the home cleaners section. Now to play!!:drinks:

shooting on a shoestring
05-04-2007, 12:03 AM
I too have recently aquired a Lee TL158 SWC for .357/.38s. I've tried LLA, Johnson's Floor Wax, and conventional lube. Seem barely OK for 700 to 750 fps in .38s. I have leaded heavily in .357 at 1100 fps. How fast do you guys push them?

USARO4
05-04-2007, 10:17 AM
Wire Nut, My experience is a thin coat is good enough, just enough to to give the bullets a dull finish. I think it's like tumble lubing with Alox, don't over do it, less is better. I had a batch that I put a real heavy coating on, you could see the excess wax congealed along the bottom side of the bullets. It was a golden yellow color. I just rolled them back and forth on the wax paper covered cookie sheet I had dried them on. Even though the wax had dried the rolling seemed to distribute the wax more evenly on the bullets, kind of like buffing your car after the wax dries.

Ricochet
05-04-2007, 10:29 AM
The less satisfactory experiences I've had with it, involving the wax flaking off, were when I put it on heavily.

wire nut
05-04-2007, 03:37 PM
thanks,I have a very lite coat on them.I will load some tonight in a .357 case 125 gr lee bullet over 5.0 grs reddot.I have had zero leading loading this using LLA.Will report later on results.

cohutt
05-04-2007, 09:38 PM
thanks,I have a very lite coat on them.I will load some tonight in a .357 case 125 gr lee bullet over 5.0 grs reddot.I have had zero leading loading this using LLA.Will report later on results.

Lite coat worked for me last nite- smell different than lla but seemed effective enough to keep working with it. 45 300g swc and 44 340g swc at modest velocities.

Possum
05-05-2007, 12:59 PM
I finally went and bought a can. I'll give it a try. Should have bought shares in the company when this post was created. They probably will have a record month. :)

cohutt
05-05-2007, 01:50 PM
I finally went and bought a can. I'll give it a try. Should have bought shares in the company when this post was created. They probably will have a record month. :)

Private company. A big one too-

http://scjohnson.com/family/default.asp

Ricochet
05-05-2007, 03:15 PM
Maybe they'll send Bagtic a Christmas card. :-D

Whitespider
05-06-2007, 08:11 AM
:coffeecom Sitting here drinking my morning coffee and rollin’ some stuff around in my head :idea:. I’m thinking about making my own pan lube. When I browse this board, I can’t help but notice that beeswax is used in almost all blends, also lots of comments about Lee Liquid Alox.
:?: Has anyone blended JPW with beeswax and maybe LLA and used it as a pan lube? What proportions? Would it be hard, soft, sticky?
I was thinking of 1 can JPW, 1 LB beeswax, 1 bottle LLA to start with. What non-petroleum product could I use to soften it up if I need to?

Ohio Rusty
05-06-2007, 10:17 AM
I have mixed 50/50 Beeswax and JPW. I had poor success pan lubing as the next day when it was harder, it pulled itself out of the lube gooves. I might have to figure out a different way to pan lube to be successful. So far, melting the combo in a pie plate over low heat then tumbling the bullets in the 'sauce' and setting them on wax paper has worked just fine. many of my boolets have a small amount of excess accumulated lube around the bases where when it and the bullet was warm, it ran down the boolet onto the wax paper. It's no problem cleaning off the excess lube from the bottoms. After 24 hours, the coating feels like the consistency of beeswax ... softer than crayon wax but not sticky to the touch..
Ohio Rusty

Ricochet
05-06-2007, 02:40 PM
What I've got now is a mixture of completely unknown proportions of JPW, toilet ring wax, beeswax, lanolin, and LLA. Works fine as a dip lube, sort of works as a tumble lube but it's kind of gummy for that. Haven't tried it as a pan lube, but I think it would probably work. Doggone, it sure sticks and won't pull off! It will melt at temperatures encountered by leaving cartridges in a clear plastic container in the sun (which heats them way to hot to hold in the hand and surely way too hot to safely fire.) Don't ask me how I discovered that, but a word to the wise should be sufficient...

montana_charlie
05-06-2007, 03:25 PM
After coating the bullets looked dull
Good thing you aren't loading military ammunition.

Some Sergeant Major would take one look at those dull bullets...and you would spend your weekend learning to run the world's smallest buffer.
CM

Ricochet
05-06-2007, 05:54 PM
LOL!

How true.

clintsfolly
05-06-2007, 06:59 PM
hi gang after reading this thread i tumbled lube some 45rn in JPW shot at 800fps was 30min cleaning lead out of my barrel thanks but no thanks clint

Ricochet
05-06-2007, 07:26 PM
And yet I've shot 2000 FPS gaschecked boolits lubed with JPW out of my K-31 Swiss and .300 Weatherby Magnum Vanguard without leading. Boolit fit, alloy, bore condition, all the usual suspects come into play as well as lube. JPW's not the all-purpose lube for everything, though.

clintsfolly
05-06-2007, 08:09 PM
casting acww . .452 nice smooth bore boolit drops .4525 clint

USARO4
05-07-2007, 08:40 AM
Ditto what Ricochet said. Clints folly what alloy were using and what was its BHN?

clintsfolly
05-07-2007, 11:12 AM
do not bhn air cooled ww can just mark with thumbnail clint

BAGTIC
05-10-2007, 10:59 PM
Is the J's paste wax or J's paste wax and beeswax put on thick enough to fill the lube grooves and let dry, or are the bullets just coated all over and the lube grooves aren't full, but have a coasting of the paste wax lube? I'm asking as I can't find a bottle of alox on any gun store locally, and I'm needing to have some lube for the bullets I have cast.
Thanx ......
Ohio Rusty

You don't need lube in the bottom of the grooves as they don't touch metal anyway.

Strange isn't it that people lube bullets and then push them through a sizer that scrapes most of the lube off the bearing surface of the bullet where it is needed most.

Scrounger
05-11-2007, 12:42 AM
You don't need lube in the bottom of the grooves as they don't touch metal anyway.

Strange isn't it that people lube bullets and then push them through a sizer that scrapes most of the lube off the bearing surface of the bullet where it is needed most.

Not so strange. In the conventionally lube bullets, when fired, the bullet compresses a bit and forces lube out of the groove. And the instructions with the Lee tumble lubed sizer tell you to lube, size, and lube again.

drmeece
05-17-2007, 10:47 PM
Hi guys I'm a new member and new to casting and reloading...I've been reading the board for awhile now and have learned a lot...Thank you...
I would like to know what you guys think about using a small deep fryer set at a low temp say 150 to 200 degrees f with JPW put a couple hundred boolits in the basket put it in the now melted wax. Leave it in the wax for a couple of minutes so the boolits can warm up enough for an even thin coat..Then dump on wax paper... The fryer I'm thinking of using has an airtight sealable lid so I could just leave the wax in it and use it as needed...What do you think?????Thanks Daryl

leftiye
05-18-2007, 03:00 AM
I know you guys like tumble lubing, but has anyone cooked out the solvents and made a lubrisizer lube out of this? Maybe soften it with boolplatelube?

drmeece
05-18-2007, 08:24 PM
Update on the deep fryer....It works great..The temp setting might be off alittle but I set it on 300 covered the bottom of the basket with boolits 165 of them (45acp) and set them in the fryer for about two mins. Lifted the basket and let drain took the boolits out with my fingers they were warm but not too hot to handle..Put a nice coat on the boolits...The only down side is the vapors...Very strong but I'm thinking ( hopeing) the solvents will bake off...By the way I got the jpw at Lowes for $4.85 a can. I bought four cans put two in the fryer it should last a long time..

BluesBear
05-18-2007, 09:43 PM
Now you've gotten me thinking...

I wonder if a Crockpot would get hot enough to do the same job with JPW?

Ricochet
05-18-2007, 10:36 PM
Way, way, way more than hot enough.

KevMT
06-12-2007, 11:29 AM
Realize that I am dragging up a farly old post here. But I wanted to put in my $.02 in favor of JPW. For my low velocity plinking loads in 41 mag I have been doing the LLA/size/more LLA route. But this time I went with LLA/Size/JPW. This gun tends to lead up at and just in front of the forcing cone. Although still present, it was substaintially reduced with the JPW. For the record I was ACTUALLY using an old can of "TREWAX" that came with the house when I bought it. But I am pretty sure they are both simply carnauba based floor waxes. Kev

Ricochet
06-13-2007, 03:36 PM
JPW has a little carnauba wax in it, true. But the solid stuff in it's mostly microcrystalline paraffin wax, and about 80% of it's mineral spirits. Trewax has a lot more carnauba.

KevMT
06-13-2007, 05:52 PM
JPW has a little carnauba wax in it, true. But the solid stuff in it's mostly microcrystalline paraffin wax, and about 80% of it's mineral spirits. Trewax has a lot more carnauba.

Interesting!

It would seem that the carnauba being vegetable based would be superior to paraffin based JPW for a lube.

I may have to try a test soon.

Kev

Jim
06-13-2007, 06:49 PM
After reading through this thread, I'll be going out Friday(my day off) to find some JPW.

MT Gianni
06-13-2007, 07:16 PM
The old, old can of trewax I have says over 50% carnauba. i add a small amount to my fwfl. Gianni

kellyj00
10-18-2007, 09:44 AM
I have some old carnuba car wax. "mequiars gold class"
Could I just use this to lube a bullet?

If so, could I just get some on my fingers and push it into the lube grooves myself?

Thanks!

kellyj00
12-03-2007, 11:31 AM
Can I use JPW on my Lee tumble-lube 45acp bullets? They have many smaller lube grooves designed to be tumble lubed with LLA, which I don't really want to pay for.

Sorry if this is a silly question, I have yet to start casting and I'm very very cheap.

Ricochet
12-03-2007, 09:15 PM
Yes, it can work well that way.

jhalcott
12-03-2007, 10:24 PM
another silly ?. How are you getting the JPW??

PatMarlin
12-03-2007, 10:48 PM
Home Repo or Lowes. In the paste wax can. In the wood finish section.

It doesn't just grow on trees don'tchaknow.. :mrgreen:

flhroy
12-03-2007, 11:33 PM
jhalcott, I found it in a Safeway store. It was by the rest of the floor care stuff. You have to look for it though, it was on the bottom shelf.


Roy

kellyj00
12-04-2007, 03:44 PM
I found it at walmart in Newton KS for $5.38 per can. Not sure of the size of the can, it's metal, painted yellow and red... not sure if that's what you all are using. It's right next to the glass-top stove cleaner, on the bottom shelf and my wife actually found it before I did. You've almost gotta search for the stuff at that walmart. They also only had one can.

Thank you for your help Ricochet.
...another few questions about lubing as a new caster
1) is JPW better than liquid alox in preventing leading?
2) I'm also curious as to if there's a *best* method to applying JPW to a tumble-lube bullet. I'm thinking that heating the bullets and jpw then pan lubing them is a good bet.
3) What about for run of the mill lube-grooved bullets, should I just take a gob of the paste wax and fill the groove by hand?

thanks again, this is a Great discussion for those of us who are just starting out and doing it on a budget. (I don't mind a $2.50 bottle of LLA, but $6 for shipping when that all I really need?)

Ricochet
12-04-2007, 04:14 PM
I don't know if JPW is more effective than LLA for preventing leading. I've had good results with both. The biggest concerns I've had with JPW are that it's about 80% mineral spirits and shrinks a great deal when it dries, so you aren't really putting as much on as you think, its melting point changes drastically as the solvent evaporates so that it liquefies when barely warm when it's fresh but takes rather high heat to melt when dried out, and after it's fully dry it's quite stiff and brittle. I've had the wax all flake off the sides of the boolit and lift the wax out of the grooves with it when the boolit was pushed down into the case neck. Doesn't happen if you load the boolits before the wax is fully dried. But it's never strongly adherent to the metal, as you'll note if you leave the exposed noses of the boolits coated with it. However, it can work quite well as I said, and it's worth trying.

The originally suggested way of using it was to put the boolits in a glass jar, plonk in a spoonful of fresh wax, let it sit in the sun to liquefy the wax, slosh 'em around till they're coated, and pour 'em out to dry.

I do pretty much the same when I use it by gently warming the boolits in a coffee can on a hotplate. Don't get 'em too hot. I think it works better for tumble lubing if the wax isn't fully melted to a watery liquid, but is still a bit viscous.

I treat the ones with conventional lube grooves the same as the ones with the Lee tumble lube microbands.

Bob Jones
12-05-2007, 08:46 PM
There's a fellow who sells bulk Alox for about $10 per quart, that's probably cheaper than JPW. I see it on Ebay, he may be a member here.

I tried using carnuba wax when I ended up with a quart of high grade "bowling alley wax" at a garage sale and it worked well for handgun bullets.

Limey
12-08-2007, 11:05 AM
I have been successfully using Johnson paste ''Living Wood'' furniture wax for case lubing my 45/70 brass.

Simply stroke your forefinger across the top of the wax, the wax is solid but soft at normal room temperature and then apply to your brass between your finger and thumb.....works a treat and polish's off easy when you do your final round cleaning after seating and crimping in your bullet.......

....the current tin is Lavender scented.....smell's real nice!...it's very cost effective since you use so little and easily found at a supermarket.....plus not had any case denting at all

Safe shooting

Limey

Lee
12-08-2007, 02:06 PM
Limey, excellent tip/suggestion. Thanks............Lee:wink:

BAGTIC
12-09-2007, 12:44 AM
Not so strange. In the conventionally lube bullets, when fired, the bullet compresses a bit and forces lube out of the groove. And the instructions with the Lee tumble lubed sizer tell you to lube, size, and lube again.

Yep! The bullet compresses a bit and forces some of the lube out of the grooves but only for the first couple inches of travel and that ejected lube if going to leave a trail behind the bullet which is rapidly moving forward.

I can not prove it but I still suspect much of the success is due to 'plating' the bore with a thin layer of wax that prevents leading from adhering and preps the barrel for succeeding shots.

shotman
03-10-2008, 09:32 PM
have any of you added moly to the lube? it seems to work good for me in that i change from jacket to cast and dont clean between the two dont seem to get the leading that i did before rick

Lee
03-11-2008, 01:16 AM
So perhaps the secret to a cheap non drying lube would/might be to take the JPW and add a little STP or 5-30Shell or Lanolin or...something else mentioned thru all these threads that will work in a lube, but WHICH DOES NOT EVAPORATE and dry out???
I see the mineral spirits in JPW as just being the vehicle to get the "stuff" on the article being coated, then evaporate and leave a dry wax residue. If so, then some "non-drying" additive might assist adhesion, as well as prevent drying/flaking???
Just thinking out loud, I'm sure others must have the same thoughts??......:roll:........Lee:wink:

pjh421
03-11-2008, 10:06 PM
How 'bout a little baby oil?

Paul

jcwit
03-11-2008, 11:01 PM
I noticed that car wax would be harmfull. You've got to be kidding if it workes on a $60,000 Corvette clear coat there's no way it'll harm a steel barrel. I'd be more worried about contaminates in the lead melt, or dust/dirt picked up when loading. Just my 2 cents.

Lee
03-12-2008, 12:48 AM
I also forgot to mention beeswax, which "should" be sticky, perhaps counteract the drying out that occurs when the spirits evaporate. I'll do some experimenting this summer. I'd like to find the cheapest, simplest 3-component lube I could make....ala JPW/ingredientX/ingredientY, and that assumes that the mineral spirits WILL evaporate out, leaving all the rest behind...........
(I could also suggest maiden oil, but that will take the thread in a different direction[smilie=1:).............................Lee:wink:

DLCTEX
03-12-2008, 01:22 AM
White Label lube is the one selling 32 oz. liquid Alox for 9.50. I wonder if a mix if alox and JPW would make it cling to the boolit and have attributes of both? DALE

jcwit
03-12-2008, 07:01 AM
I might be wrong but I seem to remember that adding Ivory soap which contains stearic acid helps the lube adhear to the bullet.

bcp477
03-18-2008, 03:04 PM
CAR wax COULD be harmful - because it contains fine abrasives. Acrylic clear coat finishes on cars are designed to respond well to this. Under heat and pressure, in a gun bore, perhaps it would tend to be more destructive than might seem reasonable. On the other hand, perhaps it would only help to "lap" the bore. I think that I am not brave enough to try it, though.

Products like JPW (Minwax paste "finishing wax" is another very similar product), if designed for fine furniture, do not contain abrasives...only solvents for cleaning, in addition to the carnauba wax.

HABCAN
03-18-2008, 06:34 PM
According to a Google search I just did, S.C. Johnson Co. (Canada) no longer manufactures the old yellow paste wax I grew up with, so I guess that's why I have been unable to find it on any dealers' shelves and store clerks don't know what it is. Their online ads are so PC I suspect they discontinued it 'to save the children'. Looks like we'uns up here are stuck with Minwax, LOL! I'll try summa dat, eh? CDN$10.00/lb.

jcwit
03-18-2008, 06:40 PM
Having thought more about what I wrote I would suggest to anyone concerened about using car wax, use the ones not listed as a cleaning wax. The cleaning waxes are the ones that have the polish in them. Something else to think about is the polish left in the case from tumbling, no one seems to mind that. I still contend but this just my opion it would take so many thousands of rounds before there would see any wear. Also would not using jacketed bullets be more harmful? How bout using JB bore cleaner?

Flinchrock
03-18-2008, 09:40 PM
CAR wax COULD be harmful - because it contains fine abrasives. Acrylic clear coat finishes on cars are designed to respond well to this. Under heat and pressure, in a gun bore, perhaps it would tend to be more destructive than might seem reasonable. On the other hand, perhaps it would only help to "lap" the bore. I think that I am not brave enough to try it, though.

Products like JPW (Minwax paste "finishing wax" is another very similar product), if designed for fine furniture, do not contain abrasives...only solvents for cleaning, in addition to the carnauba wax.

Polishing a bore is harmful???,,,hmm,,,

Ricochet
03-19-2008, 03:34 PM
JPW is no longer made? Whodathunkit?

PatMarlin
03-19-2008, 04:03 PM
Hmmm.... that sounds like a Canadian thang.. :coffee:

35remington
03-24-2008, 09:23 PM
I'm not surprised it's not made in Canada anymore. I believe it's still being made; just somewhere else.

My can says Made in Mexico. NAFTA, don'tcha know.

MT Chambers
03-24-2008, 11:55 PM
When the Canadian Gubment found out that johnson's paste Wax was being used as a bullet lubricant it was put on the dangerous goods list, it now requires a "dangerous goods permit" to acquire it, and one must be registered with the Federal Government as an " ammunition manufacturer". Further to that, we can no longer export it to the USA without proper paper work, seems our gov. doesn't want it to get into the hands of terrorists residing in the USA and crossing the border into Canada and using it on us.

Lee
03-25-2008, 01:22 AM
Man, I hope they never catch on I'm using Canadian manufacture TP as filler for my boolit loads........................Lee;-)

woodsoup
04-03-2008, 08:17 AM
CAR wax COULD be harmful - because it contains fine abrasives.

Car POLISH would be harmful. straight, non cleaner types of car wax, with a high percentage of carnnuba would not harm anything.:coffee:

Ricochet
04-03-2008, 11:32 AM
Right. But lots of car wax (all of it I've ever seen or used) is self-polishing with the abrasive mixed right in it. Might work for fire lapping (which I've never done and never plan to), but I wouldn't think it'd be the best lube.

jcwit
04-03-2008, 10:41 PM
J-B non imbedding bore cleaning compound is abrasive so is Remington bore cleaner, for that matter primer residue is also. Auto polish used on clear coat finish could never harm a steel barrel in a lifetime of shooting. I can just see someone finishing up his RR then wondering how soon the finish will be rubbed through, kinda silly right? Course others might shoot more in a lifetime than I do, last year I only shot 3,000 rds thru my favorite .45 and 4,000 in my carbine. Before one needs to worry about wearing/polishing out the barrel the throat will be eroded away from the powder burning.

Ricochet
04-03-2008, 11:21 PM
I've seen car paint rubbed through to the primer more than once.

I've never used any of that abrasive cleaner paste in my guns, either.

jcwit
04-04-2008, 09:08 AM
Do you use toothpaste on your teeth, its abrasive, but it will polish out plixiglass and leave no visable scratches. Point being you can not wear out you teeth with normal brushing no more than you can wear out a hardened steel gun barrel or a non-hardned one for that matter, as stated more damage will occur from contamints in the lead or dirt picked up before loading, or from primer residue.

Ricochet
04-04-2008, 10:37 AM
I'm sure you're right. I just feel funny about it, though.

And teeth do wear down noticeably over the years from polishing and brushing. Some whitening toothpastes are pretty harshly abrasive. Eating wears 'em a lot more, though.

35remington
04-06-2008, 07:41 PM
Your barrel gets shot a lot more than your car gets waxed, by far.

Other waxes are more appropriate. With the great many possibilities out there, car wax with abrasives has to rank rather low as to desirability.

You don't coat your bullet with JB or Rem Clean for every shot, either. If you did, that would make those gun cleaning items (combined with some kind of wax) just as unsuitable for bullet lubricant use as car wax with abrasives.

Which would hardly be surprising to anyone.

Boerrancher
04-06-2008, 10:17 PM
I started using JPW to tumble lube my boolits in after reading about it here. I am pushing a 235 gr round nose out of my 45 LC rifle and pistol. I don't know what I am getting out of the pistol, but I am averaging around 1,800 fps out of my rifle. The bore is nice and shiny, and I have sent over 200 rounds down range with the JPW lube at booth tin cans and coyotes, and am dieing to try it on some 180 grainers out of my 300 win mag. I will be happy if I can push them up around 2,200 fps or faster, and not have a leading problem.
Does anyone have any reliable velocities with JPW or LLA out of a 30 cal? I will post my results as soon as my mold shows up.
Once again I thank all of you for the great topics and loads of info.

Happy Shooting,

CPT T.

jcwit
04-07-2008, 11:15 PM
Re: Your barrel gets shot a lot more than your car gets waxed, by far. How true, however considering the hardness of clear coat versers barrel steel I do believe the steel will hold up just a little better. Also how about the polish resisdue from tumbling, thats got to eat the barrel up fast. Between primer resisdue, dirt that just happenes to get picked up, grit from polishing, contamints in the lead its a wonder rifling stayes in place at all. I guess I really could care less as I'll never live long enough to see the barrel shot out with lead bullets. And yes I hope I have quite a few years left.

35remington
04-11-2008, 05:57 PM
Wax your car 200 times with abrasive based car wax and tell me how the clear coat is holding up. I doubt a car exists out there that has been waxed more than a couple or three dozen times or so with abrasive type wax. Considering the ratio of usage gun versus car is several orders of magnitude I don't take it as a given that steel will hold up better with that type of disparity. My point was, if you'd fear putting JB on a bullet for every shot, then some of the abrasive car waxes should give you pause as well.

Personal choice. We'll do what we want.

Ricochet
04-11-2008, 06:12 PM
I've seen folks rub through into primer. By hand. Maybe not on the latest factory paint jobs, but I've seen it done.

That aside, maybe it's not all that harmful to use abrasive wax on boolits in a gun barrel, but I sure don't see any benefit to it, and the only way to know if it's harmful is to shoot a lot of that stuff through a lot of guns and see if it wears them out faster. Won't happen with mine.

Three44s
04-12-2008, 10:23 AM
LOL!!!

I had not entered this thread before and the above post was the first thing I saw!

And I was thunkin ....... what in the world has "Boolit's" turned into ............ LOL!

So I investigate further ....... and I gotta ask:

What is wrong with good 'ole Lee Liquid Alox??????

You bet abrassive waxes will eat paint! ...... and that's at hand pressure.

Guns opperate at thousands of PSI and in a confined space.

Make mine LLA!

Three 44s

Ricochet
04-12-2008, 10:34 AM
What is wrong with good 'ole Lee Liquid Alox??????
Not a thing. I'm right fond of it. And got a gallon of Alox 606-55 when Wiljen ran the group buy last year. :mrgreen:

jcwit
04-12-2008, 11:02 AM
Iused LLA for years before I got a luber/sizer & liked it. Only had problems with leading in 9mm, other cal. like .38 sp, 45 ACP and others did alright. My only other complaint was excess lube on the end of the bullet would collect on the seating die and if not cleaned out would seat the bullet deeper into the case. Really not an issue if you're watching what you do just an aggravation. Never could figger out why I had a problem with 9mm.

Three44s
04-12-2008, 11:50 PM
Leading in the 9mm ..... I would suspect too much pressure for the alloy you were using.

Double dipping the LLA ...... two apps might trump it ...... and one of my crazy twists ...... powdered moly added between the two apps of LLA?

Three 44s

WyrTwister
04-14-2008, 01:33 PM
I've seen folks rub through into primer. By hand. Maybe not on the latest factory paint jobs, but I've seen it done.

That aside, maybe it's not all that harmful to use abrasive wax on boolits in a gun barrel, but I sure don't see any benefit to it, and the only way to know if it's harmful is to shoot a lot of that stuff through a lot of guns and see if it wears them out faster. Won't happen with mine.


Do not know the science behind it , but I have read that abrasives smaller than a certain point do not harm steel , just polish it . I do not know what that point is .

As far as " clean " lead bullets , I would say it would be nearly impossable to wear out a barrel . Now , what the powder flame will do to the chamber throat , is another matter .

But even there , I will bet the flame is less intense than with high velocity jacketed ammo ?

God bless
Wyr

WyrTwister
04-14-2008, 01:37 PM
LOL!!!

I had not entered this thread before and the above post was the first thing I saw!

And I was thunkin ....... what in the world has "Boolit's" turned into ............ LOL!

So I investigate further ....... and I gotta ask:

What is wrong with good 'ole Lee Liquid Alox??????

You bet abrassive waxes will eat paint! ...... and that's at hand pressure.

Guns opperate at thousands of PSI and in a confined space.

Make mine LLA!

Three 44s

LLA is messy , it never really dries . Nose of the bullet stays somewhat sticky .

JPW is more readily available & maybe cheaper .

I have not shot JPW bullets yet , so I do not know the performance difference .

It might be worth experimenting , mixing a little LLA with the JPW ?

God bless
Wyr

WyrTwister
04-14-2008, 01:38 PM
Iused LLA for years before I got a luber/sizer & liked it. Only had problems with leading in 9mm, other cal. like .38 sp, 45 ACP and others did alright. My only other complaint was excess lube on the end of the bullet would collect on the seating die and if not cleaned out would seat the bullet deeper into the case. Really not an issue if you're watching what you do just an aggravation. Never could figger out why I had a problem with 9mm.



Maybe the bullet needed to be a little over size ?

God bless
Wyr

Ricochet
04-14-2008, 07:15 PM
Patience, Grasshopper. :mrgreen:

LLA does eventually dry. Takes a long time.

Mixing a little LLA into JPW makes something that has been described as looking and feeling like brown cold cream. Dries to a golden brown film, which is fairly flexible and tough. That was the start of my "Brown Thunder" homemade lube that I went on to incorporate various other waxes and lanolin into. I've been making it softer and stickier as time goes on.

Boerrancher
04-15-2008, 09:55 AM
LLA is messy , it never really dries . Nose of the bullet stays somewhat sticky .

JPW is more readily available & maybe cheaper .

I have not shot JPW bullets yet , so I do not know the performance difference .

It might be worth experimenting , mixing a little LLA with the JPW ?

God bless
Wyr

I started shooting JPW when I first read about it here several months ago. I use it to lube both rifle and pistol. I finally got my 30 cal mold yesterday so I am going to see how JPW holds up at higher velocities. I have never used LLA and as long as JPW does the trick I probably never will. I have several bottles of LLA sitting around just in case but JPW is a lot less expensive.

Best Wishes,

CPT T

KevMT
04-15-2008, 12:31 PM
Recently I loaded some 41 mag loads that I thought I had sized the group buy wadcutter boolits for. As it turned out, the boolits were 1.5 thou oversized and due to the tight chambers in my Blackhawk could not be loaded in the cylinder without extreme force. Well, I ran them up in the case sizing die to reduce them enough to chamber. This left the boolit 3.5 thousandths undersize as measured from a pulled boolit. I took them out this weekend and fired 40 rounds fully expecting to have a severely leaded barrel when I was done. Well as it turns out the JPW combined with some rather sedate (trail boss) velocities in the 700-800fps range resulted in only a very slight amount of leading in the forcing cone and none in the barrel. Not bad. Almost makes me want to try the same "test" with Liquid alox. But I'm not sure how much I want to push my luck.

Kev

Ricochet
04-15-2008, 03:44 PM
I've had to do that with a sizing die with the decapping pin removed, to get oversized cartridges to chamber. A poor emergency measure. What works well is the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die for pistol calibers. Sizes the outside of the cartridge to maximum standard cartridge dimensions. A sizing die undersizes them.

KevMT
04-15-2008, 04:17 PM
What works well is the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die for pistol calibers. .

Yep, it's on my list for my next order. The problem is, my lack of $ plus the group buys here have pretty much eliminated my "new reloading stuff fund". :roll:

Ricochet
04-15-2008, 05:34 PM
I've experienced Group Buy Poverty myself.

Curly James
06-01-2008, 04:54 PM
Thought I would put my 2 cents worth in regarding this method. I have lubed, loaded , and shot approximatley 8,000 to 10,000 rounds of 38/357 ammo using boolits lubed with JPW over the last few months. My method, stolen and plagerized from a dozen smarter casters, is simple. Cast Lee RNFP .38 cal boolits in six cavity mold using range scrap with a smidgin of tin added. After they have air cooled put them in a bucket with water and a little Murphy's Oil Soap

Run them through a Lee .358 push thru boolit sizer die. The will now weigh (at least mine do) 160 grains. Heat them in a 200 degree oven in a metal tin or on a cookie sheet and while still very warm place them into a bowl and drop in a dollop of JPW and swirl until evenly coated. Spread on wax paper and let dry.

I load these in .38 spl cases using a variety of powders but my standard load is 4.5 grains of WW 231, WW SPP, mixed .38 Spl. cases and the above described boolit. These average around 820 fps and there is no or very little leading in my many 38/357 revolvers. I might add, this load shoots to point of aim in my fixed sight S&W 38s and is very, very accurate. This is my IDPA/plinking/whatever load.

The fastest I've ever pushed one of these boolit has been a little under 1000 fps out of a .357 magnum. No leading and very decent accuracy.

This method allows me to process a large quantity of boolits with little effort and time.


Kudos and thanks to Ricochet and all the rest on this board whose minds I have picked and ideas i have utilized over the years. Take care, CJ.

uncowboy
06-22-2008, 07:38 PM
One of my secrets to loading fast plinking ammo, I hate sizeing my bullets!:castmine:
I take the Lee Tumble lube bullets in the 6 cavity mold. I cast a pile of bullets and tumble lube them. Instead of sizeing the bullets I load them in my Dillon 550B In the 4TH die position I have a FL sizer with the decapping assy removed. I set the oversized case uo so it resizes in the 4th position. This resizes the bullet in the case saving me a full step in loading ammo. I have done this with 38's and 32's and am ready to do it with 41's. Accuracy has been very good. Pleanty accurate for cowboy action shooting and plinking.My 32's will shoot 2" at 25 YDS and that is about how accurate the conventional sizeing shoots. J.Michael

Ricochet
06-22-2008, 08:57 PM
If you do that with a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die instead of a case sizing die, you won't excessively size your boolits as it probably will when using a case sizing die with the boolits loaded.

TexRebel
06-22-2008, 09:21 PM
I have never sized my pistol bullets, but always use a factory crimp die after the seating die, and get great results

kamikaze1a
07-24-2008, 11:24 PM
Great thread! Lot's of useful info. Will be trying out some of the techniques since I have the Lee tumble lube molds. One question though, anyone know what lube Magtech uses? It seems to be some black coating and saw some reference to SPG lube but all the pictures of SPG lube I've found, the lube was white. Any ideas?

Lee
07-25-2008, 01:23 PM
Might try visiting a bowling alley or roller skating rink. I'm betting their floor paste waxes would be a close to dead-on substitute for JPW. We have 5 gal cans of floor paste wax where I work. Mainly carnauba and mineral spirits. Looks and smells a lot like the old JPW.

taminsong
08-05-2008, 02:33 AM
Hello guys,

I've been lurking around for quite some time now, read and re-read this thread and actually tried JPW on some 45 acp cast bullets.

My method was heat the bullets in an oven toaster, then put them in a glass jar or steel jar, put some JPW and tumble them. Next I put them in a plain bottom metal container and back again inside the oven toaster where I heat them 'til I saw the wax melting and the bullets looks shiny. After than I stand the bullet in a wax paper and let it stay overnight.

It's true, the bullets looks dull but it's not sticky in the hands and my hornady seating die doesn't gummed up!

I don't understand why you cannot find a supply of JPW in the US? Here, there's a lot in the supermarket, plain white and red floor waxes, although the packaging is in paper carton. When I read the label, it was manufactured locally but under licensed from SC Johnson of USA.

This thread is very helpful and informative, more power!

Tom W.
08-05-2008, 03:47 PM
I saw the thread on here years ago, so I tried the JPW with my .30 cal. gas check bullets and used a standard jacketed bullet load. I shot them out of my Ruger #1 as plinking rounds at turtles in a bauxite mine. After the turtles were depleted, I started shooting small sticks and targets of opportunity. Never had a bit of leading or accuracy problems.


It works well with every bullet that I have tried in on, .357, .45 Colt and .45 auto, as well as some loads in my .44 mag. I put a dollop of wax into an old bullet box or Cool Whip container and set it out in the sun for a while. It melts fast. Then just tumble lube the bullets and set them on waxed paper to dry...

Boerrancher
08-05-2008, 10:27 PM
I try not to get mine overly warm, because I like a good heavy coat. I shoot it in every thing from 30 cal on up, at velocities approaching 2000 fps. For loads over that I use LLA on the first coat and then JPW on the second to keep the LLA form cloging up my sizing die.

Best Wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

captainkirk
08-06-2008, 08:12 AM
Hello guys,


I don't understand why you cannot find a supply of JPW in the US? Here, there's a lot in the supermarket, plain white and red floor waxes, although the packaging is in paper carton. When I read the label, it was manufactured locally but under licensed from SC Johnson of USA.

This thread is very helpful and informative, more power!

I've found it at Ace Hardware for 6.99 a can here in Spring (Houston) TX. I haven't used it for lube yet but intend to soon.

captainkirk

HiVelocity
08-07-2008, 08:00 PM
Folks,

I too like to use JPW. In addition to using it for lubing [tumble lulbe design] bullets, I'll actually saturate a patch after thorough cleaning (shotgun and rifle both) and swab the bore a bit and let it dry. Then a clean cotton patch, usually a piece of old T-shirt, and polish the bore to a mirror finish.

The next time you go shooting/hunting, it will cut your cleaning time in half. Swabs right out in minutes. No mess, no fuss.

HiVelocity in SC:coffee:

kamikaze1a
08-23-2008, 07:32 PM
I've been experimenting with JPW too as a way to resolve the sticky finger problem when using Alox. I tried warming a batch of boolits in a sauce pan and then adding the JPW but I guess my temp was too high because there was visable amounts of Alox left behind in the pan and I could visably see less on the boolits. 2nd batch, warmed to lower temp and that worked better but still left behind some Alox.

Do you all think that it is the heat or the solvent (mineral spirits) in teh JPW that is causing the Alox to run off. Or am I not giving the Alox enough time to cure before the JPW treatment? I'm giving the Alox 18 hours dry time.

Boerrancher
08-24-2008, 03:56 AM
Thin your alox a bit with mineral spirits so that it will dry better, and give it 24 to 36 hours depending on where you are located and what the relative humidity is. Also instead of heating your boolits before coating with JPW, you can toss half of them in an empty plastic peanut butter jar put in a spoon or two of JPW depending on how many boolits you have, and set them in the sun for a few min and tumble and repeat the process. You don't want your JPW to get runny, as that is when it will start washing off the alox. You want everything just warm enough that the paste starts to thin out. If it starts to get runny let everything cool. When the JPW starts clinging to the sides of the container really well then you know it is clinging to your boolits. Most times a temp of 90 to 100 degrees F is warm enough.

One of these days soon I am going to post photos here of how I apply JPW. I have great results with it in both rifles and pistols. My results are quarter sized groups at 75 and 100 yds with my open sighted 03A3 Springfield rifle you can see the load data and pics of the groups in the cast boolits section under the thread "More pics of Home grown Gas Checks Results." I was pushing close to 2000 fps and that was just with JPW as lube.

Best Wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

kamikaze1a
09-02-2008, 10:54 PM
After a couple of sessions at the range, I am impressed with Alox/JPW/spray Carnauba wax. My barrel bore is shiny and cleaner than after shooting conventional lube ring cast boolits. I don't get a lot of smoke either probably because I don't dip lube which I would say deposits more lube than necessary on the base.

I've just started casting so take this for what it is worth... I apply a light coat of Alox, dry overnight with a fan blowing on the drying tray, Apply 2nd light coat and again dry overnight with the fan and a final light coat of JPW or spray on Carnauba wax. Have not really decided yet whether I like the JPW or Carnauba wax finish coat better but the spray on wax is cleaner when handling and easier to apply.

One thing that I have observed when applying the JPW, I get better results by putting a dab of JPW in a sauce pan, lightly warm the pan on a burner/stove until the JPW starts to melt and then add the Alox coated bullets. I do not warm the boolits and also try to get all of them on their side so that the melted JPW is applied primarily to the bearing surface where it is needed instead of the base or ogive.

Boerrancher
09-03-2008, 09:14 AM
I am glad you have found a method that works well for you. As I have said before with JPW, that there are as many ways to apply it as there are those of us who use it.

Best Wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

leadeye
09-03-2008, 01:14 PM
Where I used to work we used a powdered 5 micron carnauba wax. I have some of this coming home to dust LLA coated boolits with. Will let you all know what I find out.

Duce
09-03-2008, 05:42 PM
All ACE Hardware stores have it. I use it all the time on restoring old funiture.

mtnman31
09-03-2008, 07:15 PM
I get it at my base commissary for around $4.50 a can. Lowes and Home Depot stock it for around 5-6 bucks a can. It is versatile stuff. I haven't tried it yet, but plan on using it to lube up some minie balls in my Zouave replica. I plan on just using a small spatula or popsicle stick to spread it into the minie's lube grooves. Anyone else tried this approach to minies with success?

legend
09-04-2008, 03:16 PM
when useing the jpw it flakes off mine and looks real bad.has anyone else had thiers look awfull?
i am going to try alox with it and im sure that the flakeing will clear up.just wondering.
legend

Boerrancher
09-04-2008, 03:54 PM
If you don't bell the mouth of your casing enough it will get scraped off of the boolit during the seating process. Once I started belling out my case mouths a bit more I stopped having the flaking issues.

Best Wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

legend
09-04-2008, 07:46 PM
thanks,but,its after they dry.and before i try to load them they look like old paint peeling off.

legend

Boerrancher
09-04-2008, 08:37 PM
Here is one of mine after it has been lubed, sized, and lubed again with JPW.


http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk155/Boerrancher/101_0205.jpg

If you look real close you can see the heavier areas of JPW build up. I have never had them flake off, but I don't try to pack or cake it on to where it can crack as it dries. It only takes a couple of thin coats. If you are trying to fill the lube grooves you will never get it done with out it cracking and flaking as it dries. There is too much solvent in the wax and that is what causes the cracking and flaking as it dries. Several thin coats are better than one heavy coat that falls off.

Best wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

Heavy lead
09-19-2008, 10:07 AM
This thread is sure long. Anyway I've jumped on this bandwagon. I've always liked plain old Javelina in a Keith style boolit for revolver loads. But I never liked using this or LLA in 45 acp (1911) and my Hornady LNL, because of the mess.
Anyway I aquired a Lyman 452460 4 hole mould and it casts right on 452, so I gave the JPW a try (I've always used this for lots of things, but never boolit lube) I casted 100 boolits dumped them right in a plastic coffee can with the lead still hot (but obviously not hot enough to melt the plastic) put about a large tablespoon of JPW. Now I have not shot them yet, but so far I'm impressed, not messy, the lube stays in place and is hard.

kamikaze1a
09-23-2008, 10:18 PM
I read somewhere (here on this forum) about using a hair blow drier to warm the boolits for JPW applicaion and gave it a try. Worked really well and was done JPW'ing about 500 swc's in no time. I used to use a hot plate and a sauce pan but found that tumbling them in the metal sauce pan caused the boo's to have dents and dings. The dings didn't seem to affect anything but looked like cr@p...

Here's what I did. I dumped about 100 Alox lubed boo's into a plastic bowl, added two pea sized bits of JPW and turned the drier on. I warmed the boo's until I could feel the bottom of the bowl was getting warm and then it was Rock 'n Roll time. Using that small amount of JPW gave the hundred boo's a light coat and just enough to cover the two coats of Alox I had applied a few days earlier. I think my three coats (2 Alox, 1 JPW) is less than some of the one coat pics I have seen. And I get absolutely no leading.

BUFFALOW RED
10-17-2008, 11:15 PM
ANY ONE tryed to use jpw with BP

Doc Highwall
10-18-2008, 02:46 PM
BUFFALOW RED, I think it will work with black powder for exactly one shot, the first one. All of your shots after that will need something to keep the fouling soft.

C1PNR
10-22-2008, 02:19 PM
I haven't tried it yet, but plan on using it to lube up some minie balls in my Zouave replica. I plan on just using a small spatula or popsicle stick to spread it into the minie's lube grooves. Anyone else tried this approach to minies with success?
To lube the minie balls for my Zouave and '63 Springfield, I used a mixture of 2 parts beef tallow that I rendered from fat (they used to give it away in the meat dept. of the local Grocery store) and 1 part canning paraffin.

Melt the two together and while still hot use a needle nose plier to grip the minie by the skirt and dip it into the lube. Hold it for a couple of seconds to allow to cool then lay it down on a paper towel. It takes longer to describe than it does to do it.

We always used the "Holy Black" and were able to get through a 60 shot match without cleaning the bore.:-D

bullet maker
10-22-2008, 07:15 PM
You guys are great, I`v learned more stuff on here than in the life time of loading bullets. Keep up the great work.

David2011
10-29-2008, 08:42 PM
Jake's Products (jakesproducts) sells 2 pound cakes of Alox on Ebay for $12.50. I've bought bullet lubes from him many times. He's always been good to deal with and will answer all your questions.

David

Cayoot
10-30-2008, 02:28 PM
Jake's Products (jakesproducts) sells 2 pound cakes of Alox on Ebay for $12.50. I've bought bullet lubes from him many times. He's always been good to deal with and will answer all your questions.

David

Thanks for the tip David...how do you liquify these cakes? Heat them or disolve chunks in mineral spirits?

dolang1
11-01-2008, 09:49 PM
Hello, New to casting. I loaded 100 boolits with one coat of JPW and 100 with one coat, plus 24 hrs later a dip to the grove in JPW. I warmed a jar lid with a heat gun and dipped them that way. Both sets are loaded with 5 grains of red dot behind a 160 grain Lee 45ACP tumble lube mold (WWs and tin). My question is: What am I looking for when I compare these boolits? I realize I'm looking for leading in the barrel, but how do you find that? Do I need to clean the barrel every 10 shots or so? I hope the non-dipping method wins because it adds another step and another 24 hrs, and it's messy.
I will try to shoot this week, but I'm in training for the Wanenmacher show, You know, practicing walking sideways stooped over for about 10 miles. Later Don

Boerrancher
11-02-2008, 09:19 AM
If your gun likes the boolit, it is sized properly, and you start with a clean bore, it should stay fairly shiny while you are shooting it and still be that way when you are done. I know my old winnie 94 has a few rough spots in it that always stay dark compared to the rest of the bore, but as long as I don't clean it they never get any larger. I guess I am up to nearly 350 rounds of cast boolits coated with JPW, and running 2200+ fps out of my mod 94 now. I haven't cleaned it yet. It looks just like it did after the first 10 rounds were fired through it. You can also see how well that old rifle shoots with JPW lube at this link;
http://www.gunloads.com/castboolits/showthread.php?t=38692
Hope this helps some.

Best wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

tcrocker
11-04-2008, 07:55 PM
Just loaded 90+ rounds with J's wax. I heated the wax ( about a tea spoon) in a stainless steel pan just till it melts, removed from heat and let cool for 30 sec, droped in about ten or so boolits an mix well it coated well this way filled all lube rings. Tryed heating boolit and then added wax but all melted off boolits. Tryed the heatup wax and drip boolits in wax what a mess. Hope this helps someone:p

Hardcast416taylor
11-24-2008, 02:57 PM
[smilie=w: I finally found a can of jpw! I was in a hardware store, est.1884, and still run by the same family. They had 1 can each of jpw, Butcher`sand Trewax. This is the same store I bought jpw at for 4-H wood projects too many moons ago. I tried talking the price down, due to a dent, didn`t work. At $6.05 I didn`t complain that much, besides I got my 09 Rem. calender for my trouble. Now I`ve just got to decide exactly how I`ll use it. At my age it probably will be in my estate sale! :veryconfu

Yukoner
12-30-2008, 09:34 PM
......One of these days soon I am going to post photos here of how I apply JPW. I have great results with it in both rifles and pistols. My results are quarter sized groups at 75 and 100 yds with my open sighted 03A3 Springfield rifle you can see the load data and pics of the groups in the cast boolits section under the thread "More pics of Home grown Gas Checks Results." I was pushing close to 2000 fps and that was just with JPW as lube.

Best Wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

Hi Joe,

Sure hope you do post those pictures.

I have been given bag full of 130 gr cast .284 bullets. They should be just the ticket for shooting grouse, ptarmigan and rabbits with my old 1:12 twist 7X57 Husqvarnas.

Don't have a 7mm sizer, but am thinking that tumble lubing with JPW would be a quick way to get these bullets into action. I have plenty of the stuff here, as I have used it for years as release agent when bedding rifles.

In the meantime, I am thinking that just swishing fifty or so around in a clear plastic peanut butter jar might work. Should be able to watch the progress as they pick up the lube. Would be interested in yours and others thoughts on doing this.

Ted

Wayne Smith
12-30-2008, 11:47 PM
Why is everybody heating JPW? Admittedly, I'm using Minwax, not JPW, but all I do is drop the boolits in an old powder can (plastic) along with a dollop of Minwax and shake violently. Granted, a few small pieces of wood in there may help spread it, but it covers the boolits well as is.

Russel Nash
02-04-2009, 12:07 AM
I have a brand new Star lube sizer.

How well would Johnson's Paste Wax run through a Star?

How well would it stick to a boolit?

Would I have to add anything to the JPW to make it stick in the boolit's lube grooves better?

I also have a heater for the Star.

I am just not into all this handling of individual boolits. I also would rather not have large horizontal space taken up while waiting for the JPW to dry or harden up if I went the tumble lubing route.

Thanks, in advance.

DeepSouth
02-04-2009, 01:00 AM
Has anyone ever mixed JPW with LLA if so was it any good and were there any benefits to this.Just curious.

Russel Nash
02-04-2009, 10:03 AM
Deepsouth wrote:


Has anyone ever mixed JPW with LLA if so was it any good and were there any benefits to this.Just curious.

I read through this entire thread the other night.

It sounded to me more like everyone was using JPW in lieu of LLA, mainly, I think because JPW is so much cheaper.

It could also be that a lot of the posters in this thread are fans of tumble lubing and if they size they use a Lee push through sizer.

(I went ahead and invested the big bucks for the Star. So that's why I posted my question up above. Besides that, I really don't have the room to have boolits all laid out to dry for 24 hours plus.)

I will say this though: I had bought and used a cold swaged boolit made by Hornady. It has the cross hatched pattern in it to hold their lube.

I emailed Hornady to ask what their lube was. They did say it was some super secret proprietary blend but it did include Alox as the main ingredient.

After looking at the pictures of the JPW covered boolits that Boerrancher posted, I would have to say that appearance wise, that brownish coating does remind me a lot of what the Hornday boolits looked like.

So maybe... just maybe... Hornady's "secret recipe" is some sort of wax... JPW... :confused: cut with Alox ... :confused:

The reason I like the Hornady boolits so much is that they didn't seem to smoke all that much, IIRC.

Ricochet
02-04-2009, 02:30 PM
If you just mix some LLA into JPW, you get something like brown cold cream. It eventually dries hard, though. I started with a partial tub of JPW, some LLA, a toilet bowl ring I had, red wax off a hunk of Gouda cheese, a bit of fragrant scented candle wax, a bunch of beeswax and a bunch of lanolin and ended up with some great stuff for hot dip lubing. Scientifically formulated. Works great smeared over the balls in a Colt Walker replica, too.

carpetman
02-04-2009, 03:24 PM
Ricochet--JPW and LLA on the balls---wouldnt it be easier to get a raincoat?

jameslovesjammie
02-04-2009, 03:34 PM
Now THAT'S funny!

Ricochet
02-04-2009, 03:35 PM
You really should try it. Pure lanolin is great on the balls, too.

Boerrancher
02-04-2009, 06:05 PM
You really should try it. Pure lanolin is great on the balls, too.

Well... I don't know about using them on the balls but I took some Udder Balm, that I put on lactating goat udders, which is largely lanolin and used it as a boolit lube on my405 grainers for my 45-70 while shooting the Holy Black. It is a great cold weather lube, not sure how it will work when the weather is 100+ in the shade but it works good around 10 to 15 degrees.

Best wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

Ricochet
02-04-2009, 10:53 PM
That's mostly hydrated lanolin (which is a redundancy, the word "Lanolin" having originally been a trade name for hydrated wool fat, thus "anhydrous lanolin" is a circuitous, cumbersome synonym for wool fat.) Might get a little thin in hot weather, but the moisture in it's probably good for keeping BP fouling soft. The anhydrous stuff works well in the cap & ball revolvers and holds its viscosity to surprisingly high temperatures. Probably worth trying in the rifle.

Three44s
02-06-2009, 12:45 AM
Interesting!

Bag Balm is medicated .... use this on your "balls" and they will be antiseptic!

....... Oh ..... lead poisoning trumps an infection ....... sorry .......... LOL!!

Three 44s

3rptr
02-09-2009, 04:26 AM
Great thread. Plenty good advice.
Little scrape of Ivory for the stearate sounds good, and Boer's lanolin, too.
I shall never again lube a single boolit or lube a case without a dash of lard in the lube mix.
Plant 'em good.

Three44s
02-09-2009, 11:11 AM
ALRIGHT ALREADY:

I was in Home Depot yesterday ..........

...... and a can of original JPW jumped off the shelf and INTO MY HOT LITTLE HANDS ........

And for about $6 ...... they let me outa of da store with it ...... sans sirens!

So count me in the fold ........

......... I'll try it!


Three 44s

Leadforbrains
02-09-2009, 08:25 PM
Been usin JPW on my .32 win spcl rifle boolits. No leadin' at all.

Boerrancher
02-09-2009, 08:45 PM
Been usin JPW on my .32 win spcl rifle boolits. No leadin' at all.

With a good high quality custom made home grown gas check, an alloy of 50% range scrap and 50% WW, the proper sizing, and a good heavy double coat of JPW I consistently shoot 2300 fps with 150 gr boolits out of my 30-30, and 2500 fps with my 30-06. There is no leading when I am done shooting.

I don't heat my boolits or the JPW I just dump 'em both in a plastic jar and shake, stand up base first on wax paper to let dry. 24 to 48 hours later repeat the aforementioned steps then load and shoot. If sizing and or gas check seating is required size in between coats of lube.

Best wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

Three44s
02-10-2009, 10:22 PM
Joe,

I saw your group with your .30-30 from another "boolits" thread ....... I am very impressed!

I may never look at a .30-30 the same either .........

Three 44s

BAGTIC
03-24-2012, 04:36 PM
won't the wax eat away at the barrel?

As far as I know I was the original used of JPW dating to the 1980's.

I use it by slightly warming the bullets. In summer I would put them in a mayonnaise jar placed in the sun. In 15-20 minutes they would be plenty war. In winter I would place the jar next to a floor register for about the same time. They do not need to be hot, just warm enough to soften the wax not to liquify it.

I add a small amount, I never measure it, and tumble until the bullets are coated. It is not necessary to fill the lube grooves. Just be sure the surfaces are all coated. Place bullets on sheet of wax paper and dry overnight.

Unlike some users who insist on melting the wax I have never had a problem with the wax flaking. I recently found several boxes of reloads from 1985 that are as tight as when they were new. This after having been hauled from Oregon to Florida to California to Missouri.

I agree with some shooters who reported that it leaves the bore slick and shiny. I have fired over 500 rounds through a cheap H&R revolver without cleaning and after running a dry patch to dust out powder residue the bore looked as slick as a porcelain dinner plate.

When I lived in Oregon it was common practice to wax the gun including the underside of the barrel and action to prevent rusting. Waxing also helps reduce rusting due to body salt from perspiration.

markinalpine
03-24-2012, 06:25 PM
I put a bore patch on the end of a rod, roll the patch in the unaltered JPW, swab out the bore, and the cylinders if using a revolver. Just a light coating. I find this helps when cleaning up the weapon after firing. I also use JPW to clean and protect wooden stocks, and to lube and protect the inside of semi-auto pistol magazines, and levergun magazine tubes.

Silvercreek Farmer
09-06-2012, 01:05 PM
Just found this thread in a search, lot of good info!

Texantothecore
09-12-2012, 10:42 AM
Last night I lubed up 200 roundballs with room temperature Johnson's Paste Wax, 50 at a time in sandwich bags. Under 10 minutes for the whole batch. I will be shooting them this weekend and I am very confident that they will perform well.

Can't wait.

mold maker
09-12-2012, 12:40 PM
Well I just returned from my local Wally World, where they have an isle of clearance items. Right there, on the front, of that middle shelf, sat 7 cans of JPW, on sale, for $4.50 ea. Since these items usually aren't going to be stocked anymore, I grabbed them.
No, I am not hoarding, I have 2200 sq ft of hardwood floors that love the stuff, and I use it on all my tools.
I even waxed my old pickup with it once. It looked good to start with, but several months later it lost its shine and looked dirty.

Silvercreek Farmer
10-12-2012, 11:34 AM
I've been trying out the JPW a little over the past couple weeks and testing is not complete, but so far the results have been promising in reduced 44 mag and 30-06 loads on RD 432265s and Lee 309170s. I am just tumbling a double handful of freshly cast boolits with about a teaspoon of straight JPW. Letting it dry (haven't checked how long but I don't think it takes much more than an hour or two) then sizing the boolits and adding gas checks to the 30 calibers. The sizing process does make the wax flake off a bit, but when I retumbled them with another teaspoon or so of JPW, the fresh JPW solvent was enough to disolve the flakes and smooth everything out. I let the second coat dry, then added a 3rd coat for insurance. Even with 3 coats, the JPW is hardly noticeable on the boolits. Both loads are with Red Dot 5 grains with the 44 mag and 13 (thanks Ed) with the 30-06. I haven't done any paper work on the 44 mag just plinking, but have not observed any leading in either caliber. I've shot the 30-06 at 50 yards prone and think the load is probably around 2-3 MOA range off a bench. I'm looking forward to additional results...

jaysouth
10-29-2012, 09:34 PM
I open the can of JPW and get it to melt quickly over my casting furnace. I leave it there enought to cook off some of the solvents and add a tablespoon of STP oil treatment. Then I use a pair of pliers to move the can of molten wax from a hot lead furnace to a heated crock pot.

The bullets are dipped one at a time and placed on a cookie sheet standing up.

They dry completely after 12 or so hours. I bag them in a zip loc bag and store in a refrigerator.

After the JWP mixs cools and becomes solid again, I replace the lid and store for future use.

The bullets shown are RD 165s cast from wheel weights. I will load them up to 1500-1600 fps in .30-30, .308 and .30-06 as cast without sizing or gas checks. No leading and they leave a nice shiny bore that is easy to clean.
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l222/jwsoutherland/015.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l222/jwsoutherland/017.jpg

You can see some bullets leaning. These were not properly cast and will be remelted at future date.

cdet69
10-30-2012, 08:03 PM
Jay how do you like the Ranchdog mould you are using? Does it work well for you?

singleshot
10-30-2012, 08:26 PM
cdet69, I have that Ranchdog mould and love it! I use it more than any other .30 cal mould I own. I even use it for Paper Patched boolits. I use a 50/50 JPW/LLA mix.

jaysouth
10-30-2012, 08:27 PM
Great on the range. When gun season opens in two weeks, I'll let you know how it works on whtetails.

The first couple of days, I will be hunting from a blind in dense woods. The max limit of visibility is 40-59 yards. I am using a 308 Police carbine(Remington 7600P) with a 16 1/2 barrel.

It should do well with the RDs. Last year I used the 165 gr. cast bullets from Magnusbullets.com which are almost like the RD. I killed enough does and button bucks to fill a couple of freezers. I hunt on my Brother in Laws property and let him shoot any trophies that might happen by. He can keep the big horns. I hunt for backstraps, vension bratwurst, jerky, venison roasts and gumbo meat. I have not figured out how to cook the big horns that most people hunt.

Unfortunately, I may have purchase the last 165 gr. mold from RD. They are going out of business and no longer list any .30 cal molds.

Any of the old hands here can put you onto a similar mold from another company. Sorry.

cdet69
11-01-2012, 06:00 PM
Emailed Accurate moulds about making one for me. They responded that it is already a catalouge item. Will be the next on my list. I think I will make it a 3 cavity.

Redhorse702
08-27-2013, 05:18 PM
Ok gents.. forgive my ignorance ... but do I understand that JPW replaces other cast bullet lubes totally WITHOUT leading?
The heat from powder ignition doesn't cause fouling? If so can I add it to my patched round ball with 75 gr FFFG under it?
Thanks..

fiberoptik
10-18-2013, 11:48 PM
Not a towel, but a toilet seat cover on the buffer. USMC! R.E. Buffing floors w/ JPA

725
10-19-2013, 08:17 AM
Redhorse702,
I may be late in on this thread, but to address your question, leading and fouling are different. Fouling is just the burnt residue from your powder, lube, patch, wad or whatever else my be in the cartridge/chamber when you shoot. Leading is the transfer of boolit lead from the boolit that adheres to your bore as it skids down the length the barrel. JPW really does a champion job of preventing leading.

Slow Elk 45/70
10-20-2013, 04:07 AM
HUllo all , this is a great bunch of info brought together by our members, makes a great stickie

fiberoptik
10-24-2013, 11:55 PM
who/where can I get a ranch dog 30-30 mould?

jmort
10-25-2013, 12:55 AM
Noe in Vendor Sponsor Forum

goofyoldfart
10-25-2013, 02:14 AM
Hello to all: years ago when I was Teflon patching, a friend at one of the clubs I shot at made the comment that I should try waxing the bore of my rifles and shotguns in that it seems to make them "slicker". I tried it and "WOW" what a difference. between the 2 (JPW and teflon) it did make a big difference. NO LEADING plus accuracy plus speed. It seems any wax with a high carnubba wax content will work very well. just my .02cents worth. God Bless to all and theirs.


Goofyoldfart aka GOF or Godfrey.

abqcaster
10-25-2013, 08:53 PM
Leaving your bullets out in the rain after tumble lubing is a terrible way to dry them. Just thought I'd post some helpful advice.... ;)
-ABQ

a.squibload
10-27-2013, 02:16 AM
Got some yesterday at Homely Depot...
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c71F8di5TbI/Umyu4rS6OjI/AAAAAAAAApQ/-hhgfZzE_a8/w360-h480-no/JPW.jpg

Edit: tried it, 3" 40s&w, Lee 180gnTC tumble lube boolit.
First 2 shots from sandbag rest hit my 8x10 steel target at 50 yards.
After that they were all over the place. Barrel was smeared but most
of it came out with a dry patch.
Same thing with my Redhawk, 225gn gc swc without gc, normally accurate.
Will try again, maybe the JPW got scraped off while seating?
Both loads were between medium and hot (below max).

Old Dawg
12-02-2013, 11:49 PM
Been getting the same results for 30+ years.