Load data for 44 mag boolits (heavy)

[starmac]

Where do you guys get your load data for the 300 and 310 grain boolits.

None of my books go near that heavy and I have a box of 500 commercial cast 300 grain, and a 310 grain lee mold coming.

I'm thinking mid range to full house, but not ruger only loads.

[JesterGrin_1]

I have loads in the Lyman 48th Manual. What Powder do you wish to use?

[JesterGrin_1]

I have loads in the Lyman 48th Manual. What Powder do you wish to use?

For Sierra JSP 300 Gr with H-110/W-296 start 19.6 to 20.7 with 1.720 OAL

For Lyman 429650 300 Gr with H-110/W-296 17.7 to 19.0 Gr 1.700 OAL

[starmac]

That sounds like my luck, I have the 45th and 47th. lol
As far as powder I really need to get a book with data I can compare. I also have a mold for 45 colt coming in 300 grain and would like to have one powder take care of both of these.

Does the lyman 48 also lift loads for heavys in 45 colt?

[JesterGrin_1]

As for Heavy for the .45 Colt it only shows loads for the Contender with the Lyman 452651 at 325 Gr. Unique from 6.5Gr to 8.5 Gr with an 1.585 OAL

Powders that are listed for the .45 Colt for the Boolit as given above is 700X,Red Dot,Unique,SR-7625

Powders that are listed for the .44 Mag and Jacketed 300Gr as given above is 800X,Blue Dot,N110,2400,AA#9,H-110,W-296,IMR-4227,H-4227.

Powders for the cast .44 Mag Boolit of 300Gr is SR-4756,Herco,800X,Blue Dot,AA#9,N110,2400,H-110,W-296,IMR-4227,H-4227

[JesterGrin_1]

What in the World am I doing lol. Go Here and you can find the information needed lol. http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp

[starmac]

Well my luck is holding out by your list of powders.lol I will check the site thanks.

[JesterGrin_1]

Anytime. If you said the load was for a .44 Mag Ruger and the Lee 310Gr I would have had a load for you lol. :) But it is a doozy lol.

[starmac]

Den grizzlys like doozys. lol what is your favorite powder for the 44.

[44man]

I use the Lee 310. My load is 21.5 gr of 296 and a STANDARD Fed 150 primer. That has been the most accurate load and I use it with the LBT 320 gr WLN too.
When I go to my 330 gr I drop to 21 gr. Velocities are around 1316 fps and they thump deer like crazy.
These are not hot loads because more is not good with groups opening. When I worked loads I watched the groups tighten and when adding more powder the groups opened at the same rate.
For the 300 gr XTP I use 20.5 gr, again with the Fed 150 primer.
If you use mag primers, start at 19 gr and work to accuracy but you will never get as good as with a standard primer.
I am not afraid to post these loads, they are safe in Ruger's and have worked in every one from the SBH, RH and SRH. My friend has cut 1/2" groups all day with his SBH Hunter at 50 yards.
The RD 265 gr is perfect with 22 gr of 296 and a Fed 150.
I do not even consider loading anything else or another powder, they are just too good as is.
Mid range does not work with heavy boolits. Here is a 100 yard test using my load compared to a lighter load.

[starmac]

Thanks 44 man.
I have a powder question for you. Isn't 296 and h110 very similar.
The reason I ask here is 110 reportedly doesn't work in cold weather, so would be a three season powder here. I doubt seriously I would just be out shooting in extreme cold temps, but would like it to reliably go bang just in case.

[454PB]

Not only are H-110 and WW296 similar, they are the same powder, and any variations are lot to lot.

[BCRider]

The Hodgdon powder loading data website has recipes for .44Mag up to 355gn bullets. The recipes are for THEIR powders but that shouldn't be a big deal since the lineup is so varied and filled with lots of options.

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

I've done a bunch of loading with H-110 for the max power fun loads. But I'm moving away from it in favour of 2400 just because I don't need to use Magnum primers with the 2400.

[44man]

Thanks 44 man.
I have a powder question for you. Isn't 296 and h110 very similar.
The reason I ask here is 110 reportedly doesn't work in cold weather, so would be a three season powder here. I doubt seriously I would just be out shooting in extreme cold temps, but would like it to reliably go bang just in case.
Same exact powder but long ago there was a very slight burn rate difference that was sent to Hodgdon or WW. It depended on the batch. It seemed as if there was 1/2 gr difference between the two. About what lot to lot will give you.
Today I think they are the same, just put in different jugs.

[44man]

The Hodgdon powder loading data website has recipes for .44Mag up to 355gn bullets. The recipes are for THEIR powders but that shouldn't be a big deal since the lineup is so varied and filled with lots of options.

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

I've done a bunch of loading with H-110 for the max power fun loads. But I'm moving away from it in favour of 2400 just because I don't need to use Magnum primers with the 2400.
You do not need a mag primer in the .44 for any powder.
I still question the cold weather stuff because I have shot and hunted in way below zero temps using the Fed 150 with no problems.
I would love to see proof and documented tests.
I have a hard time falling into this stuff because I know I have shot at -20*. Just how cold does it need to be before 296 fails to light?

[JesterGrin_1]

Right not long ago at all W-296 was a tad slower than H-110. But now they are the same powder as mentioned just in a different marked Jug.

But I will mention this again the loads that .44 Man gave I would only use in a Ruger or another Fire Arm with equal or better strength. As these are not light loads and above book recommended Max charge weights.

Also with the Lee 310 of which has 2 crimp grooves I would use the Top one or to say the one that makes the OAL the Longest for more powder capacity in the case.

[starmac]

44 man I have no experience with the powder at extreme temps, but know some powders do funny things in them.
in the hand loader forum on the Alaska outdoors site it is fairly common to see members claiming they had fail to fire in the winter. I do not know the temps they are talking or how long the shells were sitting around at 20, 30, maybe even 50 to 60 below.
Personally at 20 below I am way more apt to be carrying a 22 than the 44, as the big bears are sleeping or suppose to be. lol So in all reality 110 would do what I need UNLESS the cold does something to the powder that keeps it from working when it warmed back up, any rounds that were stored in a cabin would see temps down to 60 below at some point through the winter.

Jestergrin, I shoot a ruger, but I am giving my son my old virginia dragoon (basically a ruger copy) , and although I have owned it since 78, I have never shot anything stronger than factory loads through it. It is still tight and actually a pretty low round count considering it's age, but I don't want to be loading rounds that would be a danger in it, just in case.

[JesterGrin_1]

I would go here http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp and take a look at what loads are available. As the only 2 Powders I have used is the H-110/W-296 and TiteGroup.

[Dark Helmet]

Laser Cast , perchance?

[bigboredad]

as mentioned above 21.5gr of 296 for the 300-310 and 21 for the 330 I have never shot anything heavier than the 330gr and don't even have a .44 at the moment. I do love the accuracy you can get from a .44mag and the 330gr

[starmac]

Laser Cast , perchance?

These came from colorado cast bullets, I don't know much about them, as I bought them at an auction.

[starmac]

Well the hogdon site doesn't have cast in the 300 grain 45 or the 300 or 310 gr 44 in a cast bullet, but for heavier cast 110 and 4227 is listed for both. It sounds like 110 might be the way I need to go. I know sportsmans has 4227, not sure about 110 or 296, will have to check. Titegroup is listed for both with jacketed up to 300 grain. I have tight group now, but it sounds like I would be better off with 110.

[BCRider]

44Man, regarding the magnum primers with H110 the information came from a local guy that led me through loading my .500S&W rounds with H110. Also the Lyman 49th manual has lots of little stars beside the H110 and W296 load data for the .44Mag specifying that Magnum primers should be used.

I'm not sure why as your own experience suggests that it's not needed. But there it is.

[44man]

44Man, regarding the magnum primers with H110 the information came from a local guy that led me through loading my .500S&W rounds with H110. Also the Lyman 49th manual has lots of little stars beside the H110 and W296 load data for the .44Mag specifying that Magnum primers should be used.
I'm not sure why as your own experience suggests that it's not needed. But there it is.
The .44 was that way from day one, use mag primers even with 2400 or Unique. Then 296 and H110 came to be used and ball powder is supposed to be hard to ignite when all you need is HEAT, not primer pressure.
Now I can't say about -50*, never would live where it gets that cold anyway. :mrgreen:
Yes, when I first got .44's in 1956, I followed manuals and used mag primers and it was a long time before I found real accuracy and figured the problems.
Then the 4227's shot very tight groups at 200 meters until the gun gets hot so I refuse to use it in the .44. It was wonderful in the .357 max.
Now the .500 S&W has cases made for both LP and LR primers. It works with a LP mag primer and also a LR primer but NEVER use a LR primer in LP cases or you will get a slam fire from a proud primer not in line with the barrel. You must know what brass you have. The safe thing is to use a LP mag in all brass. IT WILL WORK.
Mag primers have a place and are needed but I never use them in any .44. It is an argument that will never go away but since I am not in Alaska, I have no need for a mag primer. Squib loads might be the result of reduced loads or boolits moving out, not the primer. A squib is common with no case tension too. "M" dies for soft lead. Faulty loading for a revolver. It is easy to blame the powder or primer when the loads might not be assembled right.

[JesterGrin_1]

On Titegroup work up from the bottom slow as TiteGroup tends to build pressure very fast. It is good for low end to maybe middle ground loads.

[Moonie]

I load 22gr H110/W296 with 300gr Lee in my NMBH in 45 Colt. Energetic, lively, a blast to shoot.

[44man]

My friend uses the LBT 320 gr in his SRH. I mounted an Ultra Dot for him and we shot to sight it. It shot very good and he also uses the Fed 150.
However, when he dropped out the unfired rounds I noticed some boolit movement from recoil. I can not see the boolit base in his loaded rounds. I told him his expander is too large.
If a boolit can move from recoil, a mag primer will sure push it out.
Once we shot factory cast loads with an extreme profile crimp from a SRH, I forget if it was a .480 or converted to .475 but either way boolits pulled and after two shots the gun locked up. Had the same with factory .454's in a SRH. Crimps were so hard they will ruin brass. But there was no case tension. I use a minimum crimp and none of my hand loads pulled.
I would never carry those factory loads in bear country, you need to remove the front sight, you know the story, a bear will laugh when your gun locks.

[starmac]

Hey I will never be as good with a 44 as your are. I carry the 44 hoping it gives the bear problems trying to pass it. lol

[44man]

It is true I love the old .44. I also love the heavier boolits for deer.
But no matter what you shoot, test your loads to be reliable before carry in bear country. I was really surprised that factory cast pulled so easy, top makers too, using new brass.
Once I made a real heavy boolit for a friend, big .500 and nothing I could do would hold the boolits.
Each has a limit and the super heavy weights will fail. There is too much inertia.
Heavy boolits buffer primers but it does no good if your third boolit is out of the crimp.
Be safe first.

[starmac]

Well I am a little confused (easily done) lol
Are you saying all other things the same that a mag primer might cause bullet pull on the unfired rounds, when they wouldn't with a standard primer?

What would recommend to a newby basically on crimping the 310 grain cast. Do you use carbide dies with you cast loads?

[tek4260]

Seat and crimp separately.


I have went to 27gr of H110 with a 300gr cast in the 44 mag, but now most of my plinking loads are in the 22gr range.

[Gibson]

Not to go against Jim, but I always use MAGNUM primers with the .44 rem. mag. There are reasons for it. (Though they may be outdated or usurped by new knowledge, no idea). I do know that they work fine in my loadings (HEAVY). I also use them for .45 Colt.

As for heavy bullets pulling from recoil, I have no idea. I have never experienced it.

As for what tek stated, probably good advice!

27 gr of H110. A man after my own heart ;)

[JesterGrin_1]

Well I am a little confused (easily done) lol
Are you saying all other things the same that a mag primer might cause bullet pull on the unfired rounds, when they wouldn't with a standard primer?

What would recommend to a newby basically on crimping the 310 grain cast. Do you use carbide dies with you cast loads?


No he was not saying that it had anything to do with a Mag primer VS a Standard Primer.

What he was saying that at times you can go to too heavy of a weight of a Boolit for a given caliber and case that will overcome the crimp and case Tension of which will enable the Boolit to move.

Now as far as Mag Primers lol. For the .357 Mag I have found Mag Primers the best to use for H-110/W-296

But for the .44 Mag with H-110/W-296 Standard Primers have worked best.

But this is how it was explained to me by some people that would know lol.

The Mag Primers is specified due to the simple fact of they do not know how the ammo will be used or to say under what conditions. So it was explained to me that if I am not going to be Shooting in say much less than Freezing then the Standard primer is fine and will give good results. But if I think I will be shooting at say 20F and less then it would be best to use a Mag primer for a better ignition due to the low extreme temperatures I would be in.

So in other words to cover themselves for all situations then the Mag Primer is suggested to be used. :)

Just a Personal FYI lol. If it is 20F or Colder as to if I pour a cup of Coffee from my Thermos and it freezes in the cup before I get to drink it then Folks it is too darn cold for me to be Hunting lol. Been there done that when young and Dumb ok still Dumb but not that dumb lol. :)


And Speaking of the .44 Mag I have a Lypsy's Ruger Bisley with the 3.75 Barrel on Order and a box of New StarLine .44 Mag Brass Waiting. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/SHAKERATTLEROLL/00818_KRBS-43N_Sd_Rt.jpg

[Gibson]

I should add that I only use H110 or WC820, (.30 carbine powders) but primer brisance is what concerns me. I want to light it all, fast :) I want a primer to release all of its energy FAST. My goal is to ignite all of the powder grains over their entire surface at once.

Temperature when hunting? Often is below 32F not that that is a relevant consideration for me. Hell, I've bass fished when it was below freezing. ;) Once dropped an All-Star rod (back when they were damned good) into the canal between Barkley and Kentucky lake and reflexively bailed in after it. Water temperature was 32F, air temperature was 32F. I managed to grab the trolling motor and then work my way to the back of the boat and climb over the big motor. But I'll tell ya it was tough going getting back to my truck. Lord have mercy!

"Where they produce better ignition and combustion of the charge, better balance ballistics will result."

I also theorize that a heavy blow equals increased flash energy :)

2400? No idea. I suspect that SP work better as manuals seem to indicate their use.

44man, your notions about short barrels in magnums are 100% spot on with Edward M. Yard. I have no idea as I don't even own a 3" but that's darn good company to be in.

[jmort]

Here are some ideas - no barrel length listed

1335 fps 320 grain Cast Performance WFN PB .430 Hodgen h-110 21 grains CCI 350 large Winchester
1290 fps 325 grain BEARTOOTH LCMN GC .432 H-110 24.0 grains FEDERAL 155 STARLINE
1400 fps 330 grain Beartooth Bullets LFN GC .432 Hodgon H-110 23.5 grains Federal Magnum Starline

[starmac]

Jester 20 degrees is just starting to get to be good hunting weather. lol I would rather it be 10 here than 40 there any day, it feels way different.

[JesterGrin_1]

Jester 20 degrees is just starting to get to be good hunting weather. lol I would rather it be 10 here than 40 there any day, it feels way different.

lol I am Sure it is. :)

[44man]

Well I am a little confused (easily done) lol
Are you saying all other things the same that a mag primer might cause bullet pull on the unfired rounds, when they wouldn't with a standard primer?

What would recommend to a newby basically on crimping the 310 grain cast. Do you use carbide dies with you cast loads?
The fellas explained it very well. Not enough case tension and a heavy boolit can pull from recoil before you can shoot them. Crimp alone does not seem to help by itself so I use just enough crimp to fold to the boolit, depending on tension more.
I use Hornady dies that have a very good expander.
I figure the loss of accuracy I get with a mag primer in the .44 is from the primer pressure moving the boolit before good ignition. No way to prove that of course but if each boolit has a little different movement and a tiny change in capacity between shots, it would explain it.
Getting very even grip on all boolits does help. Heavy boolits move less. Now this is different from recoil in other chambers.
Anyway I found H110 and 296 a lot easier to ignite then is thought and even a standard primer in the .500 JRH will ignite the powder but once I get to the .475 and up, mag primers have proven more accurate. I do have good case tension on all calibers.
Tests with my .45 Colt has also shown a preference for a lower pressure primer so I also use a Fed 150 with 296. The WLP has shown it works fine in the .45 but a Fed 155 will open groups.
One thing I never considered is making all the powder ignite too fast but I believe in a more progressive burn. I want to limit initial pressure and let the powder burn more down the bore.
Now I do seat and crimp at the same time, never found a difference there, however the seat die does the best and my separate crimp dies work better with jacketed because my boolits will not fit through them and can be sized down.
Group testing with any boolit will show groups will tighten in an even rate and then when too much powder is added slowly, groups will also open in an even rate so I back down to the best load. There is no need to go faster. I believe it is velocity match to the twist for stability.
I have never found boolit jump to the barrel a factor and my 45-70 BFR has a huge jump yet has shot 1/2" groups at 100 yards. I ignore that.

[starmac]

Thanks, Now I see what you were talking as far as the mag primer moving the boolit.

[44man]

Thanks, Now I see what you were talking as far as the mag primer moving the boolit.
Yes, thank you. I worked very, very hard and I make suggestions only based on what i have seen. It is still up to you to find what you like.
I have an awful time trying to explain things. Many go after me and much of what I say has no proof but what others dispute me about also offer no proof. I want you to test for yourself and never to believe anything else. The most important thing to me is for you to stay in safe limits.

[starmac]

I for one appreciate your help 44man. I will never have the down range experience that you have, as My use for a handgun is different. I really don't expect to hunt with one, so accuracy past 25 yards is not really something I need. I will have to test the heavy boolits enough, that I am confident there will be no bullet jump or fail to fires.

I see there is an old thread brought up today about the virginia dragoons, and it sounds as if members are rating it as well built, strength wise as the sbh.

[Gibson]

Yes, thank you. I worked very, very hard and I make suggestions only based on what i have seen. It is still up to you to find what you like.
I have an awful time trying to explain things. Many go after me and much of what I say has no proof but what others dispute me about also offer no proof. I want you to test for yourself and never to believe anything else. The most important thing to me is for you to stay in safe limits.

I appreciate your input as well. You told me a while back to put things to the test. I do. Every freakin' day.

You keep at it, Jim. You can be abrasive but so is sandpaper, and it's very useful.

"First contemplation of the problems of Interior Ballistics gives the impression that they should yield rather easily to relatively simple methods of analysis. Further study shows the subject to be of almost unbelievable complexity." Homer Powley

Thanks again for the prayers, Jim. My boy is doing well. Although 30 minutes ago he swore that there was a snake in his closet! I tossed him a .45 and said take him out, son.

Kidding, about the .45 but that rascal insisted that there was one in there :)

[bigboredad]

If a guy doesn't do his own testing is missing out on a bunch of good things. Just because one guy says to only use what he uses because he thinks it's best is ludicrous especially when it goes against what the manufacter says to use. I'm pretty sure they have the money time equipment to do a very thorough testing and it's not just a guess. Some folks just live in their own little world and think they are smarter than everyone else

[JesterGrin_1]

If a guy doesn't do his own testing is missing out on a bunch of good things. Just because one guy says to only use what he uses because he thinks it's best is ludicrous especially when it goes against what the manufacter says to use. I'm pretty sure they have the money time equipment to do a very thorough testing and it's not just a guess. Some folks just live in their own little world and think they are smarter than everyone else

That is why I said this in post 33 :)

But this is how it was explained to me by some people that would know lol.

The Mag Primers is specified due to the simple fact of they do not know how the ammo will be used or to say under what conditions. So it was explained to me that if I am not going to be Shooting in say much less than Freezing then the Standard primer is fine and will give good results. But if I think I will be shooting at say 20F and less then it would be best to use a Mag primer for a better ignition due to the low extreme temperatures I would be in.

So in other words to cover themselves for all situations then the Mag Primer is suggested to be used.

And to think of it We have many rounds available to us now because of people that would think outside the Box. Like oh some Old Nut Named what was his name again Oh Yes Keith.

And Another pretty Bright Fellow named Burt Rutan who has said if more than 50% of people say something can be done than it is not exploration. But if just a few % say it can be done and everyone else does not think so then it is Exploration of which is the main advancement and achievements of Man Kind. Like lets say Oh When Kennedy said we would go to the Moon in 10 years they thought him a Nut but guess what They Did It.

[Gibson]

If a guy doesn't do his own testing is missing out on a bunch of good things. Just because one guy says to only use what he uses because he thinks it's best is ludicrous especially when it goes against what the manufacter says to use. I'm pretty sure they have the money time equipment to do a very thorough testing and it's not just a guess. Some folks just live in their own little world and think they are smarter than everyone else

Strange that the guy, Jim, that told me to put things to the test is the same guy you are talking about. I think his dogmatism is just ole Jim being cantankerous.

Empiricism is my guide ;)

The only thing I have become sure of is the Homer S. Powley quote.

Experience has born something out for me. . . that's why I wrote:

"I should add that I only use H110 or WC820, (.30 carbine powders) but primer brisance is what concerns me. I want to light it all, fast I want a primer to release all of its energy FAST. My goal is to ignite all of the powder grains over their entire surface at once"

It's almost like, "nobody know nothing". "Knowledge" is a STRONG word. One is inclined to say we "know" nothing. Then a guy comes by and points to a bridge :) Beyond the 'mathematicals' it gets tough, but then again the as has been pointed out, mathematics is underpinned by it's own fundamental presuppositions. . . What was I talking (typing) about? :bigsmyl2:

The question is interesting to ponder and has me thinking about rpm, barrel length, bullet stability, etc. I usually fall back on the old equation:

V=g(P/SD)t

and go from there. It doesn't, on it's face, say anything about the terms in question here but I'm a simpleton, that way. . .

[starmac]

That kid could know what he is talking about with the snake. When my youngest daughter was 7 or 8 years old she claimed to have seen a snake in the house. No snake to be found. lol about a week later the wife felt something and turned on the lamp next to the bed to find a snake sliding across us in the bed. THIS was not a rattlesnake, but it was a DANGEROUS one at the time. She liked to have beat me to death in my sleep. lol

[starmac]

Unless I missed a post somewhere, No one said to use what they do because it is best. 44man mentioned h110/296 worked so good for him he didn't use anything else.
He also said to do my own testing. (good advice) Once I find a load that does what I want to accomplish, I will do exactly like him and not load anything else, but they may not be the same components, much less the same loads.

[44man]

Yes fellas, I just write what I found. My way is not best for everyone but should be tried.

[starmac]

Well I bought the new lyman cast boolit handbook and it does have loads for the 310 grain lee that I bought. I find it odd that the loads using h110 and 296 are just a little different when the powder is the same now. It is showing 19.5 grains of H110 to be max at 1092 fps out of a 4 in barrel.

The hottest 45 colt load it shows with a 300 grain boolit is 764 fps out of a 7.5 in barrel.

In this book there is no different loads for ruger only loads.

[JesterGrin_1]

Starmac you are correct.

In my Lyman 49th Edition as well. But If I go back to the Contender area it has a listing for the 300 Gr Jacketed SP by Sierra of a Starting H-110 Load of 19.5 Gr To 20.5 Gr. But you also have to remember we are using Cast Bullets of equal weight but easier to push down the barrel which means less pressure build up. Also this load is given with the CCI-350 Magnum Primer. But in all things I would pick a primer you wish to use and load to best accuracy from your given components.

Now then it does show a listing for the Lyman 429650 300Gr Gas Check but does not show H-110 or W-296. But does show that 2400 from there testing was the most accurate. Starting at 14.0 Gr to 15.7 Gr with a CCI-300 Standard Large Pistol Primer. But at a loss at max load between the H-110 and 2400 of 132 FPS from a 10" barrel. Or to say between the 300 Gr Jacketed SP by Sierra with H-110 VS The Lyman 429650 300 Gr GC and 2400 for a loss of 132 FPS.

The 300 Gr Jacketed SP by Sierra at Max Load with a 10" Shows 1361 And the Lyman 429650 300 Gr in a 10" Shows 1229 FPS.


It does show the use of 24OO for both boolits if you wish for me to give that information as well. But it is in the Lyman 49th Edition. :)

[starmac]

I will just pick up a 49th edition as well. lol Gonna need another bookshelf. lol In your hot 44 loads are you running gas check boolits or do you get by plain base?

[Taz700]

I figured I'd post a question on some "mild" 44 mag loads and 44 special loads here as it seems a lot of you guys have a ton of info on this subject.

I'm new to casting, and loading cast, but not new to reloading. I currently reload in a host of calibers, however again not cast, and while my few years of experience have done well, nothing like what some of you guys have been doing (hence the question). I have the latest Hornady manuals (last 2), but not as much for lead (other than there website)

I've always been a fan of high power (hell my 44 takes the skin off your thumb) however am looking to have some milder fun loads. I'm buying a gun solely for shooting lead too, as I want to learn on one, before using it in all my others.

The gun is a Ruger Super Blackhawk, 44 mag in the 5.5" barrel. Bullets are cast using 92% lead 6% antimony and 2% tin. Currently the load I'm using is a Lee mold (310Gr) GC with that casting alloy, sized at .430 diameter, is 20.0gr of H110 in starline brass with the CCI 350 mag primers (this is what I had, so I started). Love the load, love the way it shoots too. I love H110 in everything from 357 to 44 mag (use power pistol for 38's). My question is what do you guys in your experience like with lighter rounds (my other mold is a 200 gr lee) again sized to .430 diameter. I'd like a mild but fun load in 44 mag for that round, as well as in 44 special (the 200 gr bullet) cast the same as above, this is non GC. My manuals do not list unique, however it seems popular among most as a good powder. Other than 110, I don't have many powders for the special or lighter loads in 44 mag (going to buy some) but don't want to buy one of each, especially at the cost and availability currently. I see clays, universal, and a few others are popular here, but again I have never used any.

The world of casting is new to me and so many questions, just reading here I have learned a lot (hopefully soon a 45-70 as well). I've always used max loads, or over in a lot of the guns, and obtained great results in many (my 223 is at 3/4" 200 yrds with 55 grs) but again, lighter cast loads are new. I just want a slower, fun (that won't break your wrist) loads, or powders that you guys like and/or recommend. I'm enjoying the world of casting, and have a good supply of pure lead (would almost like to trade for some WW, or something more like hardball) but that's another post.

[Moonie]

I figured I'd post a question on some "mild" 44 mag loads and 44 special loads here as it seems a lot of you guys have a ton of info on this subject.

I'm new to casting, and loading cast, but not new to reloading. I currently reload in a host of calibers, however again not cast, and while my few years of experience have done well, nothing like what some of you guys have been doing (hence the question). I have the latest Hornady manuals (last 2), but not as much for lead (other than there website)

I've always been a fan of high power (hell my 44 takes the skin off your thumb) however am looking to have some milder fun loads. I'm buying a gun solely for shooting lead too, as I want to learn on one, before using it in all my others.

The gun is a Ruger Super Blackhawk, 44 mag in the 5.5" barrel. Bullets are cast using 92% lead 6% antimony and 2% tin. Currently the load I'm using is a Lee mold (310Gr) GC with that casting alloy, sized at .430 diameter, is 20.0gr of H110 in starline brass with the CCI 350 mag primers (this is what I had, so I started). Love the load, love the way it shoots too. I love H110 in everything from 357 to 44 mag (use power pistol for 38's). My question is what do you guys in your experience like with lighter rounds (my other mold is a 200 gr lee) again sized to .430 diameter. I'd like a mild but fun load in 44 mag for that round, as well as in 44 special (the 200 gr bullet) cast the same as above, this is non GC. My manuals do not list unique, however it seems popular among most as a good powder. Other than 110, I don't have many powders for the special or lighter loads in 44 mag (going to buy some) but don't want to buy one of each, especially at the cost and availability currently. I see clays, universal, and a few others are popular here, but again I have never used any.

The world of casting is new to me and so many questions, just reading here I have learned a lot (hopefully soon a 45-70 as well). I've always used max loads, or over in a lot of the guns, and obtained great results in many (my 223 is at 3/4" 200 yrds with 55 grs) but again, lighter cast loads are new. I just want a slower, fun (that won't break your wrist) loads, or powders that you guys like and/or recommend. I'm enjoying the world of casting, and have a good supply of pure lead (would almost like to trade for some WW, or something more like hardball) but that's another post.

I load 10-12gr of Unique with 200gr boolits for my sons 44mag ported 2 1/2" snubbie. It is a nice mid high range load at 12 and at 10 it is pleasant to shoot in that beast.

[BCB]

starmac,

I just read your original post and I shoot the 429650 and it weighs in at an average of 315 grains…

It is the most accurate handgun boolit I shoot. Not counting some of the cast boolit loads I use in Contenders…

I shoot the 429650 from a Super Redhawk equipped with a Burris 2x-7x ‘scope…

H-110…19.5 grains…CCI-350…1277 fps…

WC-820 (lot # 47320)…16.0 grains…CCI-350…1166 fps…

Both of these loads will consistently hit a groundhog-size silhouette at 150 yards from sandbags. And on good days when I get the holdover figured out, it will clang the same silhouette at 200 yards probably 80% of the time…

I don’t know if the loads I listed are “Ruger Only” or not, but they are hefty and there is never a question as to whether prime ignition occurred…

I do have trouble with the ‘scope moving in the rings after 75 or so rounds. I have never been able to keep that ‘scope in place. But, I generally don’t shoot 75 rounds in a row anyhow!!! It takes a few shooting sessions to do that and they are spread out over the warmer months in PA…

(A note: The same boolit in a Contender 44 Magnum was about the most inaccurate round I have ever fired—but it didn’t really care for other boolits either. Got it rechambered to a 445 SM and that helped, but not an impressive amount)

Good-luck…BCB

[44man]

I shoot almost entirely my hunting loads all the time. Same when I shot IHMSA, always 200 meter loads.
However for just fun, now and then I use a lighter boolit in the .44 and .45 Colt, rare, it is true but why not?
In the .44 with a 245 to 250 gr boolit I use 6.5 gr of 231 or 7 gr of Unique. No need for more, I do not hunt with the loads and they are tin can accurate over 50 yards.
In the .45 with a 255 gr boolit I have used 8 gr of 231 and 7 gr of Unique.
Most of my shooting starts at 100 yards with the bigger BFR's so I have become used to the recoil. Load work is done at 50 yards, then moved to 100 and some times 200. I used to shoot to 500 meters at the club but let my membership lapse, too far to drive. I can shoot in my woods to 200. I can go to a friends for 1000 yards.
Sometimes we just shoot for fun though and those light loads will empty a 100 round box just like a .22.
I am lazy and cheap being old on SS. I have gone into deer season with 5 shots left for the .44, killed 3 deer and had 2 left. This season I shot 6 deer with 3 guns, 6 shots. Then we found a cripple at the side of the road. I head shot it with my Mark II and my friend came and took the deer. So I shot 7 deer.
I am different! I can take my .500 JRH, put in one round and bust a water bottle off hand at 100 and am good to go because I am a hunter. I will save the rest for deer. But fun shooting demands hundreds of loads because they pour like water through my guns with the attending casting and loading. I hate hundreds of empty cases!

[ole 5 hole group]

I am different! I can take my .500 JRH, put in one round and bust a water bottle off hand at 100 and am good to go because I am a hunter.

Make that a 10 gallon water bottle and a 500 JRH with a red dot/scope and I might be able to hit it off-hand.:)

[BCB]

Make that a 10 gallon water bottle and a 500 JRH with a red dot/scope and I might be able to hit it off-hand.:)

I gotta agree with that 100%...

But, I would try it with my SRH--but I'll still bet there will considerable vibration noted...

[Taz700]

1,000 yrds, you sure don't live up in New England...... We only have 200, I can ring the plate with the 357 mag, have not tried the 44 yet, that would be sweet. Thanks for the load tips, I def. want something she may want to try, stepping up from the 357 (she is a small frame) so I do not want her on YouTube with a gun smack to the face like some of these morons.

[44man]

1,000 yrds, you sure don't live up in New England...... We only have 200, I can ring the plate with the 357 mag, have not tried the 44 yet, that would be sweet. Thanks for the load tips, I def. want something she may want to try, stepping up from the 357 (she is a small frame) so I do not want her on YouTube with a gun smack to the face like some of these morons.
Isn't that crazy? It is done to show tough guy junk. Really, as long as you get pain away from your hand with the right grips, recoil is nothing. Those guys show the recoil on purpose and let guns roll.
I had a friends son over and I was shooting my .500 JRH. He was scared straight of my gun until I started to shoot with one hand. I said just hold the thing and finally got him to shoot it. He busted cans at 50 yards while I watched my box get empty. I know darn well he shoots his dads .44 and .454 and he fell in love with the JRH.
You Tube has so much junk. I can make a .44 go way over my head or along my ear and even let it set me on the ground or step back for show.

[JesterGrin_1]

I will just pick up a 49th edition as well. lol Gonna need another bookshelf. lol In your hot 44 loads are you running gas check boolits or do you get by plain base?

At this time all I have ever had for the.44 is Gas Check Boolits.

I will say however I have had good luck with the Lee 310Gr GC and the Lyman/Ideal 431244 GC Out of the Ruger I had.

And for the Marlin 1894 SS .44 Mag I used to have the Lee 310Gr GC did good or as good as a Marlin .44 Mag will do lol. Right around 2 1/2 inches at 100 yards.