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RG1911
12-01-2012, 09:42 PM
Several sources have included a description of testing wheel weights with a pair of wire cutters. That is, if the cutters left a definite cut, the WW was not iron or zinc.

Having now sorted a couple hundred pounds of COWW, using the cutters, I could easily determine the iron and zinc weights. I also could easily determine certain weights. For instance, the P, MICRO and MC weights always tested okay.

Then there is a group of weights that are not so clear-cut. For instance, any weight stamped FN showed an indentation from the cutters, but felt significantly harder than the MC, for instance. I separated these out and did not include them in the melt. Is anyone familiar with this marking and knows if it's safe to use?

And now after reading an article on the LASC site, I'm wondering if the WWs stamped, for instance, with AL-MC and AW-MC, that seemed to test okay using the cutters, but feeling a bit harder than plain MC, are okay to use and don't signify a lead/aluminum alloy.

I have not found a list of WW markings that indicate the composition. Does a list exist?

It certainly was easier using WW 40 years ago.

Thank you,
Richard

imashooter2
12-02-2012, 12:08 AM
If you mark it without the help of two men and a boy it isn't zinc and is safe to put in the pot.

No definitive listing exists of actual alloy content and if it did exist, it would be out of date the very next time the line ran. WW manufacturers do not require any particular alloy composition.

famdoc2892
12-02-2012, 12:10 AM
You can use all those brands. I'd recommend using side-cutters instead of wire cutters. More leverage and better info. Two things in your favor, no aluminum wheel weights (so far), and melting point is MUCH higher if that ever changes. You can just skim them off the top!

badbob454
12-02-2012, 04:07 AM
if it dents or cuts its lead ..., zinc will only cut one handed through the paint.. with little to no deformation to the zinc metal....
its too hard to get a deep groove from the side cutters

Lizard333
12-02-2012, 09:54 AM
You can cut through lead with your side cutters. Your not cutting through a Zn WW with a pair of side cutters.

Unless your the Hulk. Then maybe.....

762 shooter
12-02-2012, 11:21 AM
I doubt we will ever see an aluminum wheel weight.

Kinda like a foam wheel weight.

762

Lizard333
12-02-2012, 12:46 PM
Careful with the FN marked COWW's. I have had a couple that I found to be zinc. The majority are lead. I would melt them.

If the rest of the pot is melted and they are floating, pull them. Getting your pot got enough to melt zinc means your not paying attention and wasting fuel.

Just pay attention, you will be fine.

mold maker
12-02-2012, 03:03 PM
The AL indicates it's OK for Aluminum wheels, something to do with the chemical reaction between them.
I use the old fashioned household pliers. They have cross cutters next to the slip joint hinge and that makes it easier on my hands.
I suspect as lead WW are becomming extenct we will see them made of anything that will melt. The iron weights will eventually be all that's available. They are cheaper to make and serve the purpose.

geargnasher
12-02-2012, 05:04 PM
Some of the AL marked ones have a metallic aluminum paint on them. Seems to muck up the works a bit, but sawdust removes it from the molten alloy even after it's dissolved.

You will break your side-cutters before you significantly dent a zinc weight.

Gear

RG1911
12-02-2012, 05:10 PM
Many thanks for the reassurance. I seem to have sorted correctly. (And I meant side cutters.)

Lizard333: You're correct. Some of the FN do groove, but the cutters just bounce off some others.

I think I'm going to have to take a day off from the job and just go to every tire store and auto repair garage I can get to in one day and scrounge as much WW as I can.

Richard

PuppetZ
12-02-2012, 06:18 PM
We use a bunch of FN weight where I work. They are lead but I also found they seems quite a bit harder than the plain ones used for the steel wheels. I supposed it was because of the plastic coat they put on them so they dont mark mag wheels. When you try to cut them, you first cut through maybe 1/16-1/8 of coating. When the pliers finally gets to the lead core, that make an awful lot of material to push aside.

shadygrady
12-04-2012, 12:47 PM
save all that zinc an send it to me save up 40 lbs or so in a flat rate box

RG1911
12-04-2012, 04:01 PM
save all that zinc an send it to me save up 40 lbs or so in a flat rate box

Can do.

captaint
12-05-2012, 01:17 PM
If mine don't mark with the side cutters, they don't go in the melt. I've seen plenty that weren't marked Fe or Zn, but they still don't mark - no mark, they go out.. Mike